Tonglu's Fuchun River Scenery Is Uniquely Beautiful – A Short Stay at Fang'er's Home B&B

Along the Fuchun River in Tonglu

The Fuchun River flows through Tonglu County, dividing it into the southern and northern districts. The southern district is full of modern high-rises, but for me the northern old town has much more charm, with its genuine neighbourhood bustle.

Recommended Spot:

By day the Fuchun River is graceful and mesmerising. The scenery on both banks is lovely. Walking the embankment you can exercise and take in the views at the same time.

Reasons to Love It:

Today's sunset took my breath away – the evening glow over the Fuchun River can be this beautiful. On the river, the sunset is constantly moving and shifting, making it even more captivating. I witnessed countless rays of light, ever-changing and unpredictable, and then the glittering lights at night. The people of Tonglu are so relaxed, walking their dogs and exercising along the embankment. The dogs are truly happy, roaming freely along the riverfront.

Tonglu's Riverside Park lies in the old northern district right on the Fuchun River, looking across at the high-rises of the southern district. Chunjiang No.2 Bridge is the most convenient – a 15-minute walk connects both sides. I stayed at Fang'er's Home B&B, just a 5-minute stroll away. The embankment is quite long, and the classic stretch is from Fuchun River Bridge No.2 to Bridge No.1.

The beauty of the Fuchun River changes constantly. In the early morning it's misty and dreamy, with morning haze over the water. It's also the liveliest time, around 7 am, when fishing boats come in and you can buy freshly caught fish right from the river.

By midday, when the sun comes out, the mist disperses and the river shows its most elegant face. If you're lucky enough to see a colourful sunset over the Fuchun River, it's the best of all. On weekends and holidays, the lights on both banks are switched on and the whole of Tongjun Mountain is illuminated – that's the most beautiful moment. So in summer, come to the pier for a dinner cruise buffet and enjoy the feast with the view.

Riverside Park has public toilets and wide walking paths. There are plenty of people strolling around; it's a real joy to work out here.

Tongjun South Bridge in Tonglu

This bridge was built between Tongjun Mountain and the city proper; it also marks the boundary where the Fuchun River meets the Fenshui River. The scenery on both sides is lovely. Under a blue sky with white clouds drifting by, just looking at the sky makes you happy. At one end of the bridge there's a notice board showing the donation records used to finance the construction. The bridge itself is modern and elegant. Cross Tongjun South Bridge and you reach a hillside pavilion called Tongjun Pavilion. Not far from the gate is a set of relief sculptures dedicated to Tongjun Mountain. Tongjun Mountain serves as the watershed between the Fuchun and Fenshui rivers. The water of the Fenshui River is so clear you can see the bottom. Walking along its embankment is like strolling through a painting. If you get tired, rest in the pavilions.

Tongjun South Bridge stretches across the two banks. Along the Fenshui River there are many fishing enthusiasts with rows of fishing rods set up. On the opposite side runs a road. Signs by the bank introduce the Fenshui River. Every section has so many anglers. In the distance, a canal boat comes into view. Walking further upstream you'll see Fenshui Bridge – it's old but still in use. The bridge piers are visible underneath, and boats can pass through them.

Tonglu City God Temple Ruins Park

This park has a large open square. The sky is light and breezy. On the hillside within the ruins park stands a row of memorial archways, along with two pairs of imposing stone lions. You can follow the mountain path to the top; the air is fresh and natural, and there are well-built walking trails. The bridge allows pedestrians, motorcycles, electric scooters and bicycles, but not cars. If there are many people you can even feel the bridge sway a little. Its shape is attractive and the steel approach bridges on either side are a nice touch. It's a great spot to enjoy the night scenery. Standing on the bridge you can still admire the lit-up opposite bank. Not far away is a pier. You can also watch the sunset from here; the bridge looks beautiful at night. When I visited, there were people fishing right on the bridge. Their method was unusual – they didn't watch the float but kept shaking the rod in their hands, and when they felt weight, they'd catch a fish. They call it 'fishing for those willing to take the bait'. A puttering transport boat chugged past. Dongmen Boat Reception Centre is there, with pier pillars at the dock. Summer is the liveliest time here. Along the embankment there are rest pavilions, and a fishing-boat dock.

Fuchun River No.2 Bridge is always busy with traffic. Under the long bridge piers, the views of both sides unfold. Fuchun River Riverside Park, with the many high-rises of the northern district across the water – the riverbank belongs to the old town. There are many small boats on the Fuchun River, all belonging to local fishermen. In winter, the water is shallow and some sandy banks are exposed. Next to a fishing-boat dock, many fishing boats are moored. Some fishermen live on their small boats, and at 7 am they sell fish from the river – bream, bighead carp and more. Prices are slightly higher than at the market, but it's a real treat to eat premium Fuchun River fish. The tallest building on the opposite bank is a high-end hotel. A little yellow cat climbed up a tree. In the river, a small island has formed. Small fishing boats are tied up. The scenery along the river is constantly changing. The riverside park stretches quite a way. Along the embankment are many apartment buildings. Another little island in the Fuchun River, with fishing boats moored nearby – the fishermen live on their boats, calling them home. Near Tongjun Mountain the river widens noticeably. Next to Fuchun River No.2 Bridge there's an islet with trees. The river views are captivating.

Tonglu Fang'er's Home B&B

Address: 32 Youdian Road, Tonglu.

Parking: There's a large car park right in front of the B&B. After 8 pm it's free; during the day it's 10 yuan for the whole day, and you can pay via Alipay as you leave.

The entrance is decorated with lots of flowers and plants.

Cleanliness: The whole place is spotless. 'Fang'er's Home' is the owner's own property, so she treasures and maintains it with great care.

Room sizes: There are family rooms, twin rooms, and single rooms, each a different size at a different price.

Soundproofing: Quite good, although the ground-floor rooms are near the entrance so if you plan to sleep in, you might be disturbed by guests coming and going.

Room amenities: I stayed in a single room. It is cosy but has everything you need, except a TV. The bed looked simple but was incredibly comfortable to sleep on. The quilts are filled with fresh cotton, so they are wonderfully soft.

The northern district of Tonglu has a great environment: the beautiful Fuchun River is right there, delicious food is everywhere, and you can walk to Riverside Park every day for a promenade.

Service: The owner of 'Fang'er's Home' treats you like family; you really feel 'at home away from home'. I would definitely return. Tonglu has gorgeous mountains and waters, perfect for a relaxing getaway. Nearby you have Tongjun Mountain; the night views of the Fuchun River are dazzling, and the sunset is beautiful. A very satisfactory stay.

Shopping: Right at the doorstep there's a small market. Before 10 am, local farmers and fishermen bring fresh produce to sell – I bought loads of vegetables: greens, radishes, coriander, cauliflower, sweet potatoes and more. There was also home-grown rice, homemade steamed buns, rice cakes, and pressed rapeseed oil.

Stone Archway of Yuantong Temple

There are many exquisite relief carvings on it. A tall stone stele stands at the main gate, with a large character 'Yuan' (圆) engraved on it. The roads nearby are all called Yuantong Road. Bus routes to Yuantong Temple are listed. The temple’s main gate features a tall tree in front. Inside, there are more reliefs, and by the gate green plants are displayed. A free tea station is set up outside the temple. A pathway with lotuses carved into the stone leads to the main entrance. On the gate, there are copper door rings.

Haojiu Bujian Restaurant

During the pandemic I didn't dare travel far, so I came to Tonglu, not far from Hangzhou – and it surprised me in many ways. Tonglu is a small county-level city, but thanks to the Fuchun River, it’s incredibly picturesque. The air is wonderfully fresh, and people here live contentedly without the noise of big cities; life is steady and peaceful.

Address: 25-1 Nannong Long. It's tucked away in the first little alley; not easy to find, so be patient.

Getting there: Just navigate directly. From Hangzhou it’s about a one-and-a-half-hour drive.

It's hidden in a small lane, so you need a bit of patience.

Ambience: It's a two-storey white building, decorated in a fresh and fashionable style. I loved the little courtyard at the entrance – a relaxing vibe greets you instantly.

I particularly liked the curtains.

Service: The owner is a young post-90s woman who pours her heart into running a happy place. Her speciality is light meals. Under her care, the little shop feels warm and elegant.

Haojiu Bujian is a romantic spot for gatherings. Reason to fall in love: Climb the staircase twinkling with fairy lights to the second-floor terrace. There's a beautiful Western-style dining table, and in the corner, a soft feather tree – it all looks lovely. Insider tips: Haojiu Bujian is tucked away in a small lane; take your time to find it.

The second floor brims with artistic flair – it's ideal for small dates or intimate birthday parties.

Recommended spot: This restaurant is run by local young people and decorated with a strong literary and artistic touch.

Why I love it: Winter in Tonglu can still be chilly, but inside the little shop it’s cosy – you can charge your phone, sip some hot tea, and warm up completely. Good to know: The buckwheat noodles come beautifully presented, with yellow egg strips, red chilli slices, tender and smooth shrimp, and shredded chicken. The flavours – sour, spicy, slightly sweet – are multi-layered and instantly appealing. Delicious food waits in a hidden lane.

Every corner of the shop is thoughtfully arranged, with strings of fairy lights and a rich cultural atmosphere.

Shredded Chicken Buckwheat Noodles (鸡丝荞麦面)

This dish is a riot of colour: red chilli slices, yellow egg strips, green cucumber shreds, brown buckwheat noodles, orange carrot strips and fresh shrimp – it catches your eye the moment it arrives. Truly a feast for the senses.

Mixed with garlic paste, chilli, spring onion and vinegar, the flavour is superb – refreshing, sour, sweet, with a tiny hint of heat, and a unique mouthfeel. The crisp cucumber, the delicate fresh carrot, and the chewy buckwheat noodles are all lifted by the savoury chicken and plump shrimp.

The owner's boyfriend really seems to be a chef in the making!

The ground-floor dining area is also elegantly arranged. I love the splash of colour at the window, with beautiful bouquets decorating the white gauze curtain. The central table for group meals is a Western-style dining table, ornamented with a chic beach umbrella. The umbrella's tassel is especially cute – made from dried lemon slices strung together. Small, pretty tables are covered with patterned cloths, set with placemats, and tiny brown bottles holding a single bloom for a fresh and understated touch.

Tonglu Deng Family Traditional Mi Guo (rice cakes)

Recommended: Mi Guo is a traditional Tonglu snack. Quality rice is soaked, ground to a powder, then made into round wrappers. They are filled with pickled vegetables, minced meat, diced bamboo shoot and dried tofu, then steamed. The outer layer becomes soft and sticky but with a good chew – and doesn't stick to your teeth.

Why I love it: Although it’s a snack, the process is far from simple. Deng Family's tradition has its own secret recipe, so their mi guo are distinctive. Good to know: They’re very affordable at 2.5 yuan each. You can buy them cooked, or bring home frozen ones and steam them when you fancy. Address: 331 Fuchun Road, in the northern district of Tonglu – the old part of town, small but hiding many traditional treats.

The shop is a street-front space, spacious inside, with a clean and hygienic work area. The counters are stainless steel. Normally many workers are busy making mi guo with great energy, but on the day I visited – the winter solstice – only the owner and his wife were minding the store.

The price is wallet-friendly: mi guo at 2.5 yuan each, steaming hot and freshly made, soft and satisfying. They come in spicy and non-spicy versions; inside are dried tofu, pickled vegetables, minced meat and more. The spicy ones are especially fragrant and mouthwatering.

Fermented-rice steamed buns are two yuan each. Fresh out of the steamer, they look so fluffy you can't resist. I bought one to try and before I knew it, it was gone – the subtle sweetness and rich aroma of the fermented rice linger delicately.

When I headed back to Hangzhou, I bought ten mi guo, ten fermented-rice steamed buns, and ten brown-sugar steamed buns. They can all be frozen, and you just need to steam them briefly when you want some. I added the shop on WeChat so next time I can order by mail – much more convenient.

On the wall there are promotional posters: Deng Family Traditional Mi Guo. The shop sells many varieties – mi guo, zongzi (sticky rice dumplings), brown-sugar steamed buns, fermented-rice steamed buns, dumplings, and green rice cakes.