A Leisurely 3-Day Getaway in Heqiao Ancient Town, Lin'an: Sunset by the Liuxi River
I've been smitten by this hidden gem—Heqiao Ancient Town in Lin'an—for two days now. My favorite day? The one I simply strolled along the Liuxi River. Even though early winter days are chilly, we're blessed with warm sunshine every day, and that sunshine leads to stunning sunsets. I was on the rooftop of Xinggong Yanlou B&B, drinking in that breathtaking sunset. Who says you need to travel far for a leisure getaway? There are so many lesser-known gems right around Hangzhou. Handy tip: It gets dark early now; around 5 p.m. is perfect to catch the sunset. The setting sun behind rolling hills. In Heqiao Town, Lin'an, this is my favorite kind of weather. The tiles on the old house roof... The sky darkens. The little world on the third floor of Xinggong Yanlou. The most beautiful colors outdoors in early winter.
Today, Aunt Chen from Xinggong Yanlou took me to a nearby village. The road to Muyang Valley: nestled in a valley behind Houying Village, Lin'an. You'll spot the big 'Muyang Valley' sign as you enter, and sheep-shaped sculptures line the road. Sunshine felt so warm. Feature: Muyang Valley is being developed as a modern pasture, with mechanized sheep farming. Clean sheep pens let the animals bathe in sunlight; fresh pasture grass is always available outdoors. Products: goat milk, cheese, goat milk soap, etc. The farm is standardized, with high-ceilinged, well-ventilated buildings, feed storage, mixing machines—a modern operation. The natural setting is unbeatable. Pens are spotless, lambs healthy. Sheep sunbathing, breathing the crisp, fresh air. Each pen has plenty of room. Lambs bleating happily. Of course, Muyang Valley also plans to use its superb environment to develop a camping base and a grass-skiing slope, becoming a trendy spot for camping, barbecues, and whole roasted lamb.
Mountains layered around, many trees planted. Houying Village has quite a few homestays now. Qingyaxuan Homestay: Location: No. 17 Chenjiafan, Houying Village, Changhua Town, Lin'an. The village has a fresh new look with neat rows of new houses, clean and tidy. The homestay is a stylish villa, three floors plus a sunroom that soaks up winter sun. Cleanliness: very good, newly renovated rooms with fresh, elegant decor. Room size: spacious and bright, independent twin rooms. Beds: high-quality bedding, comfy mattress and pillows. Hallways adorned with little ornaments, dried flowers—adding charm. Parking: right outside the door. Service: the hostess is warm and enthusiastic, and her cooking is delicious. Surroundings: lots to explore—Heqiao Ancient Town, Daming Mountain, Fengzhi Valley, Zhexi Grand Canyon, or hot springs at Tuankou. Floors are spotless marble tiles, living room in the center. Room amenities: well-equipped, Japanese-style tatami with mattress, trendy yet laid-back decoration. By the window, soft sofa chairs; afternoon sun streams through sheer curtains, perfect for tea. In the village center, large fields sleep under winter crops, promising a vibrant spring. The mountains around Heqiao Ancient Town, broad roads, many homestays tucked in the hills, a clear creek flowing by. Team-building groups venture into the hills to dig winter bamboo shoots.
Next, I visited Pidi Hanlou Homestay in Lin'an. Location: No. 1 Jiujiangwu, Heqiao Town. Follow the stream up to the foot of the mountain, a truly secluded spot, so the environment is extra peaceful. Getting there: about a two-hour drive from Hangzhou, just navigate directly. The homestay sits in a natural valley with an exceptional eco-environment. Each room is a standalone unit with its own character. Room facilities: fully equipped, soft bedding, quiet surroundings ensure good sleep. Parking: can park at the door, though there's a little slope. The owner blends modern and traditional style in the lobby, with a large, rustic wooden table adorned with fresh flowers. The building is a renovated old house, retaining the wooden pillars and high ceilings, cool in summer and warm in winter, with non-slip tiles making it spacious. There's a European-style fireplace; you can curl up on a comfy sofa and warm up in winter, while the house cat lazily competes for the couch. They have a treehouse, an eco-hut with a roof for stargazing, a Tibetan-style bungalow, and the most romantic is the two-story cottage. The houses are hidden among the trees, each in a different style. This kind of setting is idyllic. The activity hall is built in the woods, where you can hear the wind and birdsong. A stream babbles past the property. The mountain paths are so serene. And if you feel like picking fresh radishes or greens from the garden, you can do that too—Auntie has planted plenty. Picking your own veggies for dinner is a wonderful experience. Life like this is dreamy. You can nap in the hammock. The two-story treehouse is so charming, perched outside the forest, bathed in sunlight. The outdoor area is spacious, with a rainbow-like connection. You can listen to rain, wind, and gaze at stars. In summer, there are bonfire parties. It’s a place to embrace tranquility. The whole mountain feels like a park. Service: Guests get a free Western-style breakfast buffet—freshly squeezed juice, cakes, and specialty pastries. The breakfast spread is lavish, with a romantic vibe, lavender scents, and flowers in every corner. From here, it’s a five-minute drive to the old street.
The old street has kept its original look: cobblestone paths, a small church, and Hu’s Ancestral Hall. Time seems to have stopped here. A gurgling stream runs through the street, and every household grows flowers and plants. Under the setting sun, it’s extra peaceful. At Tangchang, once a bustling first town, you can still feel its former prosperity. Clouds drift in the sky, water flows quietly. There are many homestays, but the sky remains unchanged. Gorgeous plants and flowers in the ancient town, residents proudly plant them at their doorsteps. A pretty little courtyard, a rare green chrysanthemum. I love this tranquil old street. A simple wooden bridge spans the river, a unique sight; in the dry season it’s called Baixia Wooden Bridge. Reeds sway along the bank. The bridge is wide enough for an e-bike to cross. Address: Heqiao Ancient Town, Changhua Town, Lin'an. Transport: (1) Self-drive: navigate to ‘Heqiao Ancient Town,’ about 1.5 hours from Hangzhou. (2) From Hangzhou West Bus Station, take a bus to Changhua, Lin'an, then a taxi or minibus. Winter warmth in Heqiao Ancient Town.
Sightseeing route: The ancient town is free to explore. The Liuxi River loops around the village; under a winter sun, it’s like a beautiful painting. The water is so clear it’s a deep blue, with a bridge in the distance offering great views. The riverside scenery is stunning. Under the blue sky, the creek is so serene. The river is crystal-clear, mountains roll in the distance. You can see locals doing laundry by the water. Houses are built along the river. You can sit there soaking up the sun. Reflections in the water look like an ink painting. On the riverbank, there's a lovely homestay with lots of plants; you can enjoy tea outdoors for 20 yuan a cup. You could sit for hours, watching the river. The courtyard is tastefully arranged, hanging lantern flowers, tall trees. The bridge over Liuxi River, the water so clear. A fishing boat, you can rest in the Wenyin Pavilion. Travel is so convenient now. A fisherman's boat sits by the bridge.
Also in the ancient town, there’s a social-media-worthy spot—the 'Fox Spirit Matchmaker' themed area with dreamy pink trees that look incredibly perfect under the blue sky, as if from a fairy realm. It’s a great photo op. There’s also a giant wishing tree covered in red ribbons. Xinggong Yanlou Homestay is right next door, with more flowers in its courtyard, several cats, and prickly pear cactus on the wall. It feels like coming home. Among the Hui-style architecture, Xinggong Yanlou's deep courtyard is arranged with comfort and peace. Xinggong Yanlou Homestay: Environment: Located on the ancient street of Heqiao Ancient Town, Lin'an. The town is extraordinarily quiet and rustic, with the Liuxi River winding around one end, and the simple yet charming wooden bridge. Facilities and services: The entire building was built on the foundation of the hostess’s old house, creating a traditional Chinese courtyard full of antique charm. Nearby attractions: Daming Mountain, Fengzhi Valley, Zhexi Grand Canyon, Tuankou Hot Springs. In the lobby, there are many old objects, and a bridal sedan chair the hostess bought. Aunt Chen warms herself with the cat by the charcoal brazier. Even goji berries are growing here. Rooms: The homestay has over a dozen rooms—twin rooms, balcony rooms, family rooms, and Japanese-style tatami rooms.