A Thousand-Kilometer Self-Drive and a Summit Hike: A Late Autumn 2015 Travelogue of Mount Huangshan

Many people often seek the poetry of distant lands while overlooking the scenery right beside them. Mount Huangshan, located in the neighboring province, we had talked about it many times but never actually made the trip. We had been to places like Yunnan, Guizhou, Sichuan, Shaanxi, Gansu, Ningxia, the Pearl River Delta... places far away and rough, so why did we keep forgetting this one? "After viewing Mount Huangshan, no other mountain is worth seeing." As a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site, World Cultural Heritage site, World Geopark, and national scenic area, it was a must-visit! At the end of 2015, we squeezed out some time and just went! We witnessed the peculiar rocks and strange pines, sea of clouds and winter snow, sunrises and sunsets. Our wish was fulfilled, and we were fully satisfied.

[Day 1] December 6, Overcast, 6-11°C, Nantong → Huangshan

Departed at 9 a.m., via Sutong Bridge, G15 Shanghai-Shaanxi Expressway, S12 Shen-Jia-Hu Expressway, S13 Lian-Hang Expressway, G2501 Hangzhou Ring Expressway, G56 Hangzhou-Ruili/Hangzhou-Huangshan Expressway, and National Highway 205, arriving at Tangkou Toll Station in Huangshan District, Huangshan City at 3:30 p.m.

Total distance 507 km, total time 6.5 hours (including a meal stop). Toll fees 243 yuan, including 83.3 yuan from Jiangsu to Shengze Toll Station, 100 yuan from Zhejiang to Yulingguan Toll Station, and 60 yuan from Anhui to Tangkou Toll Station.

Along the way, it was clear that the more developed the regional economy, the heavier the traffic. In the Suzhou and Hangzhou sections, vehicles, especially trucks, increased noticeably. After exiting the Hangzhou Ring Expressway toward Lin'an, and particularly within Huangshan, traffic gradually decreased, sometimes only one or two cars. Our car had cruise control, and often we could cruise for 20 minutes at a time.

It had just snowed in the Huangshan area; it was damp and cold, with fresh air (AQI index 60). We checked into the Yunju Inn booked on Ctrip (one night, 108 yuan). The room was small but clean and tidy. The first floor was a reception area, and floors 2–4 had a total of 6 guest rooms. The tap water for washing might have been mountain spring water—slightly milky white, icy cold, and a bit slimy. After listening to the innkeeper explain the tour routes, we learned that as of December 1, the must-visit spots West Sea Grand Canyon and Heavenly Capital Peak were closed, causing a small twinge of disappointment. The rear mountain Yungu Temple cable car was also shut down; only the front mountain Yuping cable car was operating. Our original plan to take the cable car both up and down was impossible. They say it's easier to go up than down. After discussion, we decided to hike up from the north side tomorrow and take the cable car down the front.

In the evening, we dined at a Huizhou cuisine restaurant near the inn. We had Fish Leaping Over the Dragon Gate (118 yuan), Braised Pork with Bamboo Shoots (48 yuan), Wild Duckweed (38 yuan), and homemade goji berry wine (1 liang, 10 yuan). The taste was okay, a bit salty and spicy.

[Day 2] December 7, Clear, 3-10°C, Touring Huangshan

Waking up, we found heavy fog; the room was damp and cold. Even with the air conditioner on all night, it still felt cold. The temperature difference between mountain and valley was large, and perhaps the room faced north. After breakfast, we took the 7:30 Xin Guo Xian bus (19 yuan) up the mountain, arriving at Yungu Temple after 25 minutes. Ticket price: 150 yuan (low season).

Started hiking at 8 a.m. After a fresh snowfall and clear skies, our hands and feet were freezing. In the shaded areas, the cold was intense—without cotton pants, thick gloves, and ear-protecting hat, it was impossible.

The mountain paths were numerous, more than expected—step after step, turn after winding turn, some sections very steep, continuous and winding upward. After an hour, our legs gradually grew heavy; the further we went, the harder it became, as if they were filled with lead or nailed to the ground. After three hours, we had to rest after every few steps, catching our breath, drinking water, and massaging our legs...

Upward, upward! The higher we went, the stronger the sun became, the temperature rose, the load on our backs grew heavier, and sweat poured out. We wanted to throw away all those heavy clothes.

Along the way we saw many porters carrying loads on their shoulders or backs—rice, flour, oil, vegetables, gas canisters, all kinds of items. When asked about wages, they said one yuan per jin (0.5 kg). Truly hard-earned money.

Taking a break and eating something.

After the snow, the mountain air was crisp and fresh—a powerful "lung cleanse." The sky was azure, peaks stood tall, and the sea of clouds drifted ethereally. It was a feast for the eyes, and we couldn't stop taking photos as the scenery changed with every step.

After four hours of trekking, we reached White Goose Peak at noon. Our legs were sore and shaky; when we crouched to tie our shoelaces, they trembled. There seemed to be a fire inside our knees. Fortunately, the innkeeper had given us a trekking pole. Traveling really is about asking for trouble! Hold on! Get up! Move on! An hour later we reached Shixin Peak, elevation 1,680 meters.

Ascending to a height, the view expanded and the scenery became much better than before.

Earlier, halfway up, we saw the mountain's color was similar to that of Tianzhu Mountain, and we thought the world-famous Huangshan was nothing special. It is said that during the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty, the magistrate of Taiping County, Chen Jiubi, also had this thought. When he first climbed Huangshan, he thought the praise of Ming Dynasty traveler Xu Xiake—"After climbing Huangshan, there is no other mountain under heaven; the sight is ultimate"—was exaggerated. But when he reached Shixin Peak, he was awed by Huangshan's beauty and finally believed Xu Xiake was right. So he wrote on the wall of the Lion Grove guest hall: "How absurd, I wouldn't believe it if told; truly marvelous, only known upon arrival." Hence the name "Shixin Peak" (Believing Peak).

Look, a lively squirrel hopping about.

Up steps, down steps, then up again—ascending and descending, heading toward Bright Summit! My legs, my waist, my knees... The weather station, Immortal Peach Peak, Pipeng Gully fault, and TV tower grew closer. Finally, we reached Bright Summit, elevation 1,860 meters.

At 3:30 p.m., we arrived at Baiyun Hotel. The conditions were better than expected. The room was bathed in sunlight, warm as spring. The heater and down jackets provided were thoughtful, and hot water was plentiful. Outside the window, blue sky and white clouds, green mountains reflected in the snow—a picturesque scene. Worth the 480 yuan price!

After resting a bit, we put on the down jackets provided by the hotel and went out for a stroll. The round trip to Bu Xian Bridge and Flying Stone would take two hours; afraid we wouldn't make it back before dark, we decided to go up to Bright Summit to watch the sunset. Passing Haixin Pavilion, Pine Forest, and spots like Turtle Carrying Gold, we reached the summit after 20 minutes and waited for the sunset starting around 5:08 p.m.

The sky was full of sunset glow, the sea of clouds in the frame.

Baiyun Hotel's food and beverage price list. All items were carried up with hard labor, so the prices were understandable.

That night in bed, my shoulders ached, my legs were sore, and my lower back was tired. Carrying water, snacks, camera, etc., for eight hours took its toll. But the hardship was worth it—of Huangshan's "five wonders"—strange rocks, odd pines, sea of clouds, winter snow, and hot springs—we had seen all but the hot springs. What more could we ask for?

[Day 3] December 8, Clear, 4-11°C, View sunrise at Huangshan then head to Hongcun

Set out at 5:30 a.m. to watch the sunrise at Bright Summit. Although there were hotel lights along the way, the road was steep and dark, with patches of frozen snow, so we moved cautiously.

Fifteen minutes later we reached Alchemy Peak, where seven or eight tripods were already lined up at the front.

Good things are worth waiting for. Standing in the wind for over an hour, we slowly savored the stars and moon sharing the sky, the snow glittering on the ridges. In the distance, a thin mist like gauze, the green mountains like ink, the sky gradually turning red.

6:30, 6:40, 6:45... At the moment of sunrise, the noisy crowd suddenly fell silent, leaving only the clicking of cameras and phones. In just two or three minutes, the sun leaped above the horizon, bursting forth with brilliant rays.

The morning air was so pure, the sea of clouds beautiful, the world a vast expanse of white.

Passing Hundred-Step Cloud Ladder, we viewed Lotus Peak, Lianrui Peak, Rhinoceros Looking at the Moon, Dolphin Stone, Welcoming Pine, Farewell Pine, and Puzhao Pine from a distance, then took the cable car down from Yuping Station (75 yuan). A scenic area shuttle bus (19 yuan) took us to the visitor center, arriving exactly at 11:00 a.m.

We rested a bit at the foot of the mountain, had lunch, then set off for Hongcun. Half an hour later we arrived at the ticket office; ticket price 104 yuan.

Iconic attraction — South Lake

We visited South Lake Academy, Jingde Hall, Chengzhi Hall, Wang Family Ancestral Hall, Moon Pond, and other sites, appreciating the beauty of Huizhou architecture and cultural charm.

Hongcun is worth visiting; South Lake, Chengzhi Hall, and Moon Pond are interesting, but not as breathtaking as imagined. The 104 yuan ticket is a bit expensive; 50 yuan would be about right, and parking cost an extra 5 yuan. It seems scenic spots still rely on promotion and marketing skills.

In the evening, we ate at Old Neighborhood Farmhouse Restaurant. We had planned to go back to the restaurant from last night, but seeing several cars with local Anhui license plates (Wan J) here, we thought it should be good and decided to try something different.

We ordered Huizhou stinky mandarin fish (98 yuan) and Huangshan Two-Stone Casserole (168 yuan), and were given complimentary goji berry wine. The dishes were relatively fresh; the mandarin fish wasn't very stinky, as they said they had adapted it to suit tourists from different regions. We don't really know what the authentic version tastes like.

[Day 4] December 9, Rain, 6-12°C, Huangshan → Nantong

Woke up naturally in the morning, had breakfast, then departed from Tangkou Town for the return trip. It rained all along the way.

This time, heaven favored us: it snowed the day before we arrived and rained when we left, but the two days in between were clear and sunny, perfect for sightseeing. Winter is the low season, so there weren't many tourists; everything went smoothly with food, accommodation, and transport. Over four days and three nights, we traveled 1,130 kilometers, spent 3,300 yuan for two people—a free and fulfilling trip.