Dreaming of Jiangnan, Ink-Wash Huizhou: A Travelogue of Ancient Villages in Southern Anhui

📍 Huangshan · 👁 4 reads · ❤️ 88 likes

Several years ago, I had a fleeting glimpse of Longchuan Village in Jixi. The seas of rapeseed flowers covering the hills, the Huizhou-style buildings nestled among the mountains and waters, the white walls and black tiles imbued with the essence of Chinese ink-wash painting, the small bridges and flowing water full of life and romance—all of these left a deep impression on me.

Years passed, and amidst the hustle and bustle of the city, I found myself missing Huizhou even more. Seizing the moment, I took a day off and set off once again on a dream-seeking journey to Huizhou.

Day 1: Hongcun, Nanhu Lake—Yuezhao (Moon Pond)—Wang's Ancestral Hall—Jingxiu Hall—Shuren Hall—Taoyuan Residence—Ancient Ginkgo Tree—Nanhu Academy—Yuezhao

Day 2: Huangshan (Yellow Mountain), Yungu Cable Car—Shixin Peak—Dreamlike Pen Blooming—Monkey Gazing at the Sea—West Sea Grand Canyon—Bright Summit—Flying Stone—Lotus Peak—Welcoming Guest Pine—Tiandu Peak—Yuping Cable Car

Day 3: Huizhou Ancient City in She County, Wannian Bridge—Huizhou Prefectural Office—Nanqiao Tower—Xu Guo Stone Archway—Dagujing Street—Doushan Street—Taiping Bridge

As soon as I entered, Nanhu Lake greeted me. On the mirror-like surface of the lake, a row of white-walled, black-tiled Huizhou buildings was clearly reflected. Add to that the shy lotus flowers on the water, the drooping willows on the shore, the towering mountains behind the village, and the drifting white clouds in the sky—it all formed a lively watercolor painting.

And the bridge lying like a rainbow over the lake added the most exquisite touch to the painting.

After lingering in the painting for a while, I reluctantly said goodbye. Leaving Nanhu Lake, I didn't pause but headed straight for Yuezhao in the center of the village. Wandering through the narrow alleys, I passed many shops selling local specialties, which seemed no different from other ancient towns.

Yet when I passed through the last arched gate, Yuezhao stunned me like an eye.

Yuezhao itself is not large, and the surrounding buildings are typical Huizhou architecture. But strangely, when combined, they created a wonderful chemical reaction—the buildings became lively because of the water, and the water became richer because of the buildings. The Wang's Ancestral Hall beside Yuezhao is the most central building in the entire village.

It is like a thick book telling the past stories of Hongcun.

Leaving Yuezhao, I visited well-preserved ancient dwellings such as Jingxiu Hall, Shuren Hall, and Taoyuan Residence one by one. Although I only skimmed the surface and knew little about Huizhou architecture, the exquisite gateways, detailed brick, stone, and wood carvings, the high flying eaves of the horse-head walls, and the meaningful furnishings all left everyone in awe.

The stories of Huizhou are contained within these silent ancient houses.

Strolling around, I eventually returned to the shore of Nanhu Lake. I watched students sketching under the big tree, touched the centuries-old tree at the village entrance, felt the fragrance of books at Nanhu Academy, and tried some stinky mandarin fish and hairy tofu at a random restaurant to experience another taste of Huizhou.

Finally, I couldn't stop thinking about Yuezhao, so I had one more beautiful encounter with her at dusk.

As it grew dark, strings of red lanterns lit up one by one. Far from the city's noise, Hongcun's night was especially gentle.

After a peaceful night, it was time to head to the next destination. Even at the moment of parting, Hongcun gave us one last surprise.

Leaving Hongcun, I took a bus directly to Tangkou Town at the southern foot of Huangshan. Though the visit was brief, just a day in a fleeting life, I still felt the extraordinary spirit of Huangshan.

(Reference travelogue: Not Knowing if I'm a Guest in a Dream—Huangshan Travelogue in Anhui https://you.ctrip.com/travels/huangshan19/3966515.html?isAuthor=true)

After descending from Huangshan, other natural scenery could hardly catch my eye. I had heard that She County has an ancient Huizhou city, one of the four best-preserved ancient cities in China, so I decided to explore it. From Huangshan North Station, a ten-minute high-speed train ride to Shexian North Station, followed by a local high-speed shuttle bus, brought me to the Huizhou Ancient City.

Does this Huizhou Ancient City still retain its former appearance?

It wasn't quite a typical "ancient city"; aside from a few main commercial streets, most were narrow and dilapidated alleys. Apart from Doushan Street and a few scattered buildings that were well-preserved, many places were clearly not the same as before. Ancient archways, the Four Treasures of the Study sold in shops, electric scooters parked at the door, and a variety of signs everywhere gave a sense of temporal disorientation.

Although it no longer looked like its old self, it still fulfilled a dream of Huizhou for me.

After visiting the Huizhou Ancient City, I had no regrets about this trip. I took the high-speed shuttle to Shexian North Station, then a ten-minute high-speed train to Huangshan North Station, returning to where it all began.

Ancient Huizhou comprised one prefecture and six counties: She County, Yi County, Xiuning, Qimen, Jixi, and Wuyuan, with the prefectural seat in present-day Huicheng, She County. Later, Jixi County was placed under Xuancheng City of Anhui Province, Wuyuan County under Shangrao City of Jiangxi Province, and the remaining Huizhou was renamed Huangshan City. Ever since, Huangshan City, Huangshan District, and Huangshan Scenic Area have become an endless puzzle for outsiders.

The fragmented Huizhou has become a regret for many.

But on second thought, isn't Huizhou still intact? Huizhou resides in the white walls and black tiles of Hongcun and Xidi, in the autumn colors of Chengkan and Lucun, in the strange pines, grotesque rocks, and seas of clouds of Huangshan, and in the delicate fragrance of Huimo ink sticks and Sheyan inkstones.

Huizhou is not on the map; Huizhou is in our hearts.

Travelogue Contents:

1. Origin

2. Itinerary

3. Day 1: Hongcun

4. Day 2: Huangshan

5. Day 3: Huizhou Ancient City

6. Conclusion

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