A Late 2020 Journey from Mount Putuo to Mount Huang
D1: Zhengding Airport -- Ningbo
D2: Ningbo -- Zhoushan
D3: Zhoushan -- Shaoxing -- Hangzhou
D4: Hangzhou -- Huangshan City -- Tangkou Town
D6: Mount Huang -- Transfer at Wuhan -- Sleeper train home
Transportation costs: Zhengding to Ningbo flight ticket 321, Ningbo to Zhoushan Zhujiajian bus ticket 76, Zhoushan to Shaoxing bus ticket 107, Shaoxing to Hangzhou high-speed train 16, Hangzhou to Huangshan City high-speed train 118, Huangshan City to Tangkou Town chartered car 30*2, Mount Huang to Baoding train ticket 426 (transfer at Wuhan), 100 (city transportation), total 1224
Mount Putuo: ferry 30*2, entrance ticket 120, incense 80
Shaoxing Lu Xun's Former Residence: free
Hangzhou West Lake: free
Mount Huang: bus 19*2, up cable car 80, entrance ticket 190
Mount Huang second day: bus 19*2, down cable car 80
Total: 686
Ningbo Hanting Hotel: 137
Zhujiajian B&B: 120
Hangzhou Home Inn: 124
Mount Huang Tangkou Town B&B: 110*2
Total: 601
Overall cost: around 2900
D1 (2020-12-14) Baoding -- Ningbo
9:30 a.m. private car to Zhengding Airport, 12:35 p.m. flight to Ningbo, arrived in Ningbo at 3:00 p.m. Overcast, temperature similar to the north. Surprisingly, it started snowing around eight or nine in the evening. Briefly visited Gulou (Drum Tower) and the Old Bund. There were many snacks near Gulou. As a noodle lover, I always look for a noodle shop wherever I go. I had a bowl of 'Niuchaocao' beef noodles, which are found all over Ningbo's streets. The taste was just average—maybe that's the Ningbo flavor, only salty. Ningbo tangyuan (sweet dumplings) were nothing special compared to supermarket frozen ones, except they were pricier. Youzanzi, available in sweet and savory flavors, are similar to northern mahua (fried dough twists).
D2 (2020-12-15) Ningbo -- Zhoushan
Mount Putuo, known as the 'Buddhist Sea and Heavenly Kingdom' and 'Southern Sea Holy Land', is said to be the purest place on earth. Colleagues also told me the scenery was nice. Having never worshipped Buddha before, perhaps because I'm getting older, I just wanted to burn incense, pray, and calm my mind. Actually, everyone is Guanyin, and Guanyin is everywhere. As long as you have a kind heart, the bodhisattva is by your side. Everything exists for a reason, so face everything calmly and don't force things.
Trip preparations: I needed to study the etiquette of worshipping Buddha online, plus some details: never step on the threshold; men step over with left foot first, women with right foot; light incense with left hand; three sticks of incense for prayer. Incense is available everywhere in the scenic area, and inside the temples as well. One box is enough, but each person should have their own box and not share. Bring some small change, as each temple requires a 'xianghua juan' (incense and flower ticket) for entry.
Departed Ningbo South Bus Station at 6:30 a.m., arrived at Zhujiajian Pier in Zhoushan after two hours. Along the way, you can feel the grandeur of driving over the sea and the beauty of the Zhoushan Islands. Getting off, you'll find the Mount Putuo Tourist Center at Zhujiajian Pier. Purchase tickets and round-trip ferry tickets on the official website. Then queue for the ferry, which takes about ten minutes to reach Mount Putuo Pier. Remember, if you're not staying overnight on Mount Putuo, the last ferry back to Zhujiajian Pier is at 10 p.m. Compared to Mount Putuo, accommodation in Zhujiajian offers better value for money, and you can enjoy local Zhoushan seafood specialties. Alternatively, you can stay in Shenjiamen or Putuo District in Zhoushan city.
To fully explore Mount Putuo, it's best to arrange two days. One day is quite tight, especially for a day tour group—be cautious when signing up, as they may not even take you to visit all three major temples. Alternatively, arrive the day before and stay in Zhujiajian, then head to the island early the next day. Must-see attractions on Mount Putuo: Purple Bamboo Forest, Nanhai Guanyin Bronze Statue, and the three major temples. Other spots can be arranged according to your time. We arrived on the island at 10:30 a.m. and left at 6:30 p.m., visiting Purple Bamboo Forest, Nanhai Guanyin Bronze Statue, Puji Temple, Fayu Temple, and Huiji Temple. To show our devotion, we did not take the scenic area's internal transport and covered Mount Putuo with 38,000 steps. As a result, we missed Fanyin Cave, Guanyin Cave, and Luojia Mountain.
Both Zhujiajian and Shenjiamen have ferries to Mount Putuo.
Mount Putuo scenic map
Bukenqu Guanyin Court (Guanyin Refusing to Leave)
Luojia Mountain, the 'Sleeping Buddha on the Sea'
Nanhai Guanyin Grand Buddha, a landmark of Mount Putuo and one of China's three largest Guanyin statues. Out of respect, I didn't take a photo.
The Release Pond in front of Puji Temple. In the distance, the Duobao Pagoda is visible, the oldest Yuan Dynasty structure on Mount Putuo to retain its original form.
Exterior of Puji Temple. Also called 'Front Temple', it is the largest temple on Mount Putuo, the main shrine for Guanyin, and the largest temple complex. All major Buddhist events are held here, and it is the most popular spot among visitors. The main gate of Puji Temple is always closed; it only opens for heads of state, consecration ceremonies of temple statues, or when the abbot enters for the first time. Normally, people enter through the east gate and exit through the west gate.
Puji Temple worship route map
Fayu Temple, also called 'Rear Temple', is the second largest temple on the mountain.
Huiji Temple is located at the highest point of Mount Putuo, on Foding Peak, commonly known as Foding Peak Temple. From Fayu Temple to Huiji Temple, you need to take the Xiangyun Path, which has 1,088 stone steps and takes about 40 minutes to climb on foot. This mountain path is known as Mount Putuo's 'Pilgrimage Road'. No matter the weather, you can see devout pilgrims making three steps and one bow, five steps and one prostration, or seven steps and one kowtow. Next to Huiji Temple is an observation deck offering a panoramic view of the Zhoushan Islands.
D3 (2020-12-16) Zhoushan -- Shaoxing
The previous night, after returning from Mount Putuo to Zhujiajian, we stayed in a nearby three-story villa built by a fisherman. It was affordable and quiet, with breakfast shops and seafood stalls nearby, very convenient. After breakfast, we took the bus to Zhoushan Bus Station and decided on a whim to visit Lu Xun's Former Residence in Shaoxing before heading to Hangzhou.
Arrived in Shaoxing at 11:30 a.m. Perhaps because we were in a hurry, I didn't feel the charm of this historical and cultural city with its Jiangnan water-town characteristics. The buses were old, roads were broken, buildings were dilapidated, and there were many detours due to construction. It might look completely different in five years. However, Lu Xun's Former Residence is definitely worth a visit. It's located in the city center, convenient to reach, and free of charge year-round. Nearby attractions include Shen Garden, Zhou Enlai's Ancestral Residence, and Wang Xizhi's Former Residence. After a three-hour visit, we took a taxi to Anchang Ancient Town outside the city. Unfortunately, by the time we arrived, it was already dark and very cold. The ancient town was deserted, with only a few tourists including us. Feeling it was dull, we decided on the spur of the moment to head to Hangzhou that same night. Conveniently, the high-speed rail station was not far from the ancient town. We checked into a Home Inn near West Lake at 10 p.m.
Warmed a bowl of mellow yellow wine, ordered a plate of flavorful fennel beans, and imagined the old Kong Yiji.
The seemingly ordinary Baicao Garden, described vividly by Lu Xun as a poetic place with green vegetable plots, a smooth well curb, and tall locust trees...
Sanwei Bookroom where the young Lu Xun studied.
D4 (2020-12-17) Hangzhou -- Tangkou Town, Mount Huang
I had visited West Lake in Hangzhou five years ago, and this time I wanted to make up for not being able to walk the entire loop. I got up at 6 a.m., had breakfast, and set out alone. After four hours, covering 13 kilometers and 20,000 steps, I completed a full tour of West Lake. The feeling was as wonderful as the lake itself. There were very few tourists, mostly local morning exercisers. At noon, I met up with friends and we found a small, unremarkable restaurant where we ordered West Lake Vinegar Fish and Dongpo Pork.
Though the restaurant wasn't famous, the dishes were absolutely authentic. Worried that carp might be too fishy, we specifically ordered sea bass, which was delicious.
At 2:40 p.m., we boarded the high-speed train to Huangshan City, arriving at 4:10 p.m. It takes another hour by car from Huangshan City to Tangkou Town at the foot of Mount Huang. A warm-hearted B&B owner in Tangkou arranged a chartered car for us at 30 yuan per person, taking us directly from the Huangshan high-speed rail station to the Nuo Family B&B we had booked online. It was very convenient. I must specifically mention this B&B—it was the warmest, most comfortable, and best value accommodation I've ever stayed in. The owner and his wife are a young couple born in the 1990s with two children, and they were extremely helpful and attentive.
In front of the B&B flows a river, and in the distance is Lotus Peak of Mount Huang, resembling a blooming lotus. The surrounding area has all kinds of restaurants and supermarkets, very convenient.
D5 (2020-12-18) Mount Huang
Mount Huang has three main gates. 90% of tourists choose the South Gate (Tangkou) to ascend. Options are: up from the front mountain and down from the back mountain, or up from the back mountain and down from the front mountain. To save time, it's best to take the cable car at least one way. We got up at 6 a.m., had breakfast, and the B&B owner drove us to the tourist transfer center. We took the scenic area shuttle bus to the Yungu Temple cable car station. Our plan was to go up via the Yungu Temple cable car, then hike down to Ciguang Pavilion, and take the scenic shuttle bus back to Tangkou Town. It was drizzling in Tangkou, but as the bus approached Mount Huang, we saw patches of snow. Once the cable car reached White Goose Ridge, it was a completely different world—a silver-white winter wonderland. Mount Huang, like an ink-wash landscape painting, featured fantastic pines, strange rocks, rime ice, and a sea of clouds—breathtakingly beautiful. From the highest peak, Bright Summit, to the Welcoming Pine, and down to Ciguang Pavilion, the steps were all icy, and we carefully made our way, taking nearly five hours. (Tip: In snowy weather, be sure to wear crampons; otherwise, it's very dangerous.)
Ticket prices for Mount Huang Scenic Area: Peak season 230 yuan, off-season 150 yuan. Off-season: December 1 to February 28 of the next year; Peak season: March 1 to November 30. There are three cable cars: Yuping Cable Car (front mountain) 90 yuan, Yungu Cable Car (back mountain) 80 yuan, North Gate Taiping Cable Car 80 yuan, one-way adult price. The transfer center to cable car station requires a scenic shuttle bus, 19 yuan one way.
Mount Huang has 72 peaks, among which Tiandu Peak, Lotus Peak, and Bright Summit are over 1,800 meters above sea level. Main scenic areas: Yungu Area, Beihai Area, Xihai Area, Yuping Area, and Dreamy Area. People say 'the front mountain is steep, the back mountain is elegant'. Personally, I prefer the back mountain. Welcoming Pine, Lotus Peak, Yixiantian (One Line Sky), Baibu Yunti (Hundred Steps Ladder)... they offer more climbing fun. (Be sure to save the following scenic route map; it has distances and time markings, which will greatly help with route planning and time management.)
D6 (2020-12-19) Mount Huang -- Going Home
Waking up in the morning, the weather cleared. Locals said there would be a sea of clouds on Mount Huang today. I immediately became excited, changed my ticket, and decided to climb Mount Huang a second time alone, leaving behind my colleague who insisted on going home. This time, I hiked up from the front mountain and took the cable car down from the back mountain. Since I needed to catch a 5 p.m. train, I climbed from Ciguang Pavilion to Welcoming Pine in two hours without stopping, and reached Bright Summit at exactly 12 noon. On this trip, I was very glad I had the courage to climb Mount Huang twice, using two different routes and witnessing two completely different weather conditions. Snowy Mount Huang had a quiet and solemn ink-wash beauty; under clear skies, Mount Huang was lively and refreshingly natural. I arrived at the transfer center at 3 p.m. Buses from the transfer center to Huangshan High-Speed Rail Station run every 40 minutes, very convenient. Arrived in Wuhan at 10 p.m., then transferred to a sleeper train home. This trip concluded here.
