The Splendor of Huangshan Is Boundless, Worth Climbing Again and Again – A Travelogue of Early Winter 2015

Many people always yearn for the poetry of distant places but overlook the scenery right beside them. Huangshan, located in a neighboring province, had been mentioned countless times but never visited. We had traveled to far and arduous places like Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Yunnan, Guizhou, Sichuan, Shaanxi, Gansu, and Ningxia – why did we unintentionally forget her? “After returning from Huangshan, no other mountain is worth seeing.” As a World Natural and Cultural Heritage site, it was a must-visit! At the end of 2015, I happened to have free time, so I went without hesitation!

Huangshan is both the name of a tourist attraction and an administrative region. As a scenic area, Huangshan is located within Huangshan District, Huangshan City, Anhui Province. It is a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site, World Cultural Heritage site, Global Geopark, and a National 5A-level Tourist Attraction. As an administrative region, Huangshan was historically called Xin'an, Shezhou, and Huizhou. It was established as a prefecture-level city in 1987, with the municipal government stationed in Tunxi District. Huangshan District, formerly Taiping County, was established as a county-level Huangshan City in 1983 and renamed Huangshan District in 1988, with the district government stationed in Gantang Town.

Huangshan Scenic Area has three main gates: South, North, and West. Most visitors enter through the South Gate. Tangkou Town is the nearest town to the South Gate, about a 20-minute drive. The scenic area covers 160.6 square kilometers and is divided into three sections: the Front Mountain (south side of the mountain range), Back Mountain (north side), and the West Sea Grand Canyon. There are 88 peaks over 1,000 meters, with the three main peaks – Lotus Peak, Bright Summit Peak, and Celestial Capital Peak – all exceeding 1,800 meters in altitude. There are three ways to explore: by cable car, on foot, or a combination of both. There are four cable car lines: (1) Yuping Cable Car (Front Mountain): from Ciguang Pavilion to Yuping Tower, directly reaching the Welcoming Pine scenic spot. (2) Yungu Cable Car (Back Mountain): from Yungu Temple to White Goose Ridge, directly reaching the North Sea Scenic Area. (3) Taiping Cable Car (North Gate): from Songgu Nunnery to Cloud-Dispelling Pavilion, connecting the Back and Front Mountains. (4) West Sea Grand Canyon Sightseeing Cable Car: the upper station is at Shichuang Peak (Tianhai), 1,706 meters above sea level; the lower station is at the bottom of the West Sea Grand Canyon (Paiyunxi), 1,209 meters above sea level. It is a single-track double-car reciprocating ground cable car. Each of the three cable cars undergoes a one-month rotation for winter maintenance. There are two hiking routes: one starts from Yungu Temple on the Back Mountain, passing White Goose Ridge to Bright Summit Peak; the other starts from Ciguang Pavilion on the Front Mountain, passing Banshan Temple and Yuping Tower to Bright Summit Peak. For the combination of cable car and hiking, there are two routes: take Yungu Cable Car to White Goose Ridge, then hike to Beginning-to-Believe Peak and Lion Peak; or take Yuping Cable Car to Yuping Tower, then hike to Bright Summit Peak. Combining these three modes, there are seven or eight routes for ascending and descending. Usually, a two-day itinerary is planned: on the first day, ascend via the Front Mountain or Back Mountain, stay overnight on the mountain to watch sunset and sunrise, and on the second day, descend via the other side. This way, you can enjoy the majesty of the Front Mountain and the beauty of the Back Mountain. During our visit, the West Sea Grand Canyon and Celestial Capital Peak were closed, and the Yungu Cable Car was out of service, with only the Yuping Cable Car operating. We hiked up from Yungu Temple on the North Mountain, passing White Goose Ridge, reaching Beginning-to-Believe Peak, and ascending to Bright Summit Peak, a total of 7 hours. The next day, we took the Front Mountain Yuping Cable Car down and visited Hongcun Village along the way. Throughout the journey, we marveled at the peculiar pines, strange rocks, sea of clouds, winter snow, sunrise, and sunset, feeling that the scenery was picturesque and the trip was truly worthwhile.

[Day 1] December 6, Cloudy, 6-11°C, Nantong → Huangshan

Departed at 9:00 AM, passing through Sutong Bridge, G15 Shanghai-Shaanxi Expressway, S12 Shen-Jia-Hu Expressway, S13 Lian-Hang Expressway, G2501 Hangzhou Ring Expressway, G56 Hangzhou-Ruili/Hangzhou-Hui Expressway, and National Highway 205. Arrived at Tangkou Toll Station in Huangshan District, Huangshan City at 3:30 PM.

Total distance: 507 km, total time: 6.5 hours (including meals along the way). Toll fees: 243 yuan (after ETC discount), including 83.3 yuan in Jiangsu (from Nantong Xiaohai to Shengze Toll Station), 100 yuan in Zhejiang (to Yuling Pass Toll Station), and 60 yuan in Anhui (to Tangkou Toll Station).

Along the way, we noticed that the more economically developed the region, the heavier the traffic. In the Suzhou and Hangzhou sections, vehicles, especially trucks, were significantly more numerous. After leaving the Hangzhou Ring Expressway towards Lin'an, especially within Huangshan territory, traffic gradually decreased, sometimes only one or two cars. Our car had cruise control, and often we could cruise for 20 minutes at a time.

Upon arriving in Tangkou Town, we checked into the Yunju Inn booked via Ctrip (one night, 108 yuan). Although small, with only six rooms, it was clean and tidy. The water for washing was mountain spring water, milky white, icy cold, and slightly sticky. Since it had just snowed, the weather was chilly and humid, and the air was fresh (AQI: 60). The temperature difference between day and night was large, and the air conditioner was barely effective.

Dinner was at a nearby restaurant called “Huizhou Gourmet.” We had Tiaoshui Fish (118 yuan), Braised Bamboo Shoots with Pork (48 yuan), Duck Vegetable (38 yuan), and homemade medlar wine (1 liang, 10 yuan). The taste was acceptable, but a bit salty and spicy.

[Day 2] December 7, Sunny, 3-10°C, Touring Huangshan

In the morning, we bought scenic area tickets (150 yuan, off-season price) and took the scenic bus (19 yuan) heading to the Back Mountain. After 25 minutes, we arrived at Yungu Temple.

Huangshan Geological Museum.

Started hiking at 8:00 AM.

After the snow and first clear day, the temperature was low. In shaded areas, the cold was intense, hands and feet were freezing. Without a cotton coat and pants, thick gloves, and ear-covering hat, it would have been unbearable.

The mountain paths were numerous, more than expected – step after step, winding road after winding road, some sections very steep, constantly zigzagging upward. After an hour, our legs gradually felt heavy, and the farther we went, the more unbearable it became, like lead weights or stakes. Every few steps we had to rest, catch our breath, and drink water… The higher we climbed, the more the sun shone, the temperature rose, the items on our backs became heavier, and our bodies were drenched in sweat. We felt like throwing away all these heavy clothes.

Along the way, we saw many porters carrying loads on their shoulders: rice, flour, oil, vegetables, gas canisters, and various other items. When asked about their wages, they said one yuan per jin (0.5 kg), earning hard-earned money.

The sky was clear as blue glass, the sea of clouds surged, peaks layered upon peaks, and snow-covered mountains presented a changing scenery with every step. We couldn't help taking photo after photo.

At 10:00 AM, we had been climbing for 2 hours. Time to rest and eat something.

Tsuga chinensis, also known as black gold tree.

The higher we went, the more beautiful the scenery became.

After 4 hours of trekking, we arrived at White Goose Ridge at 12:00 PM. Our legs were sore, trembling when we crouched to tie our shoelaces. There seemed to be a fire inside our knees. Fortunately, the innkeeper had given us a hiking stick. Travel, indeed, is spending money to suffer.

Outdoor temperature: 4.5°C.

Yungu Cable Car is 200 meters from here.

Yungu Cable Car is closed for maintenance from December 1st to 26th.

The Huangshan pines, known as “strange pines,” stand tall and straight, stretch out green branches, twist roots, or appear vigorous and majestic… unique in form and full of vitality.

At 1:00 PM, after 5 hours of climbing, we reached Beginning-to-Believe Peak, elevation 1,680 meters.

Gazing into the distance, the scenery was magnificent.

Earlier halfway up, not having experienced such breathtaking views, I thought that the world-renowned Huangshan was nothing special. It is said that Chen Jiubi, the magistrate of Taiping County during the Kangxi era of the Qing Dynasty, had the same thought. When he first climbed Huangshan, he thought the praise of the Ming Dynasty traveler Xu Xiake – “After climbing Huangshan, no other mountain exists; the sight is complete” – was exaggerated. But upon reaching Beginning-to-Believe Peak, he was convinced by the beauty of Huangshan and finally believed Xu Xiake was not lying. Thus he wrote on the wall of the Lion Grove guest hall: “Absurd! No one would believe it if told; truly marvelous, only known upon arrival.” Hence the name “Beginning-to-Believe Peak.”

We encountered a small squirrel.

A Brush of Dream Flowers. It consists of Brush Peak and a pine shaped like a brush head. The peak is like a pen tip above and a pen shaft below; at the tip, a strange pine grows from a crevice, resembling a blooming flower.

Up, down, up again – steps, steps, steps. Pushing toward Bright Summit Peak! Meteorological station, Immortal Peach Peak, Pipeng Gully Fault, 701 Transmitter Station… Oh my legs, my waist, my knees.

Immortal Peach Stone, also known as Flying Stone.

Pipeng Gully Fault, a rift valley landform formed by weathering of mountain rock.

Anhui Radio and Television Huangshan 701 Transmitter Station.

At 3:00 PM, we reached Bright Summit Peak, elevation 1,860 meters. From 8:00 AM to now, exactly 7 hours.

Pure forest of Huangshan pine. A pure forest is composed of a single tree species. Huangshan pines usually grow in mixed forests; only above 1,650 meters do pure forest communities appear.

Half an hour later, we checked into Baiyun Hotel (White Cloud Hotel). Conditions were better than expected. Outside the window, blue sky and white clouds, snow reflecting the green mountains. Inside, the room was bathed in sunlight, warm as spring. Down jackets and heaters were considerate, and hot water was abundant. One night for 480 yuan, worth it!

After a short rest, we put on the down jackets provided by the hotel and went out for a stroll. The round trip to Bu Xian Bridge and Flying Stone would take 2 hours; worried about darkness, we decided to go to Bright Summit Peak to watch the sunset and evening glow. Passing through Haixin Pavilion, Turtle Carrying Gold, and other sights, we reached the summit after 20 minutes, waiting for the sunset at 5:08 PM.

Sunset: a performance of color and light.

The setting sun slowly sank westward, its light hidden in the sea of clouds, evening glow dyeing the horizon… Finally, everything fell silent.

Baiyun Hotel's menu price list. Since all items were carried up with hard work, the prices were understandable.

At night, lying in bed, my head was dizzy and my body ached all over. Carrying water, snacks, camera for 8 hours surely took its toll. But it was worth it. Of Huangshan's “Five Wonders” – strange pines, weird rocks, sea of clouds, winter snow, and hot springs – we saw all except the hot springs. What more could one ask for?

[Day 3] December 8, Sunny, 4-11°C, Watching Huangshan Sunrise, Heading to Hongcun

Departed at 5:30 AM for Bright Summit Peak to watch the sunrise. Although the roadside lights guided us, the path was dark, steep, and covered with frozen snow, so we were cautious.

After 15 minutes, we arrived at Alchemy Peak. There were already seven or eight tripods lined up at the front.

Good things are always worth a slow wait. Standing in the wind for over an hour, we savored the scene of stars and moon shining together, snow reflecting the ridges, thin mist like gauze, and green mountains like ink.

Sunrise: an intimate dialogue between green mountains and rosy clouds.

At 6:30, 6:40, 6:45… The moment the sun leaped above the horizon, the noisy crowd suddenly quieted, only the clicking of camera shutters. In just a minute or two, the dazzling and radiant process was over.

After watching the sunrise, we started descending.

Again we saw Turtle Carrying Gold, with an extra golden glow compared to last night.

Icy and snowy, high mountains and long roads – we experienced what it means to tread on thin ice and walk along a precipice.

Welcoming Pine, scientific name Pinus hwangshanensis, height 10.08 meters, trunk circumference 2.24 meters, about 1,000 years old, ranking first among Huangshan's “Ten Famous Pines.” On the rock wall, the inscription “风景如画” (Scenery Like a Painting) was written in 1963 by Zhu De, then Chairman of the Standing Committee of the National People's Congress, after viewing a Huangshan scenery photography exhibition in Beijing. It was carved in 1978 by the Huangshan Management Office. The inscription “一览众山小” (Seeing All Lesser Mountains at a Glance) is signed by Lin Zhangyin, mid-autumn of the Yihai year. Surrounding it are carvings such as “观止” (Perfect), “不险不奇” (Not dangerous, not wondrous), “刻峭千仞” (Steep cliffs), “奇松怪石天然仙境” (Strange pines and weird rocks, a natural fairyland), “老松” (Old pine), and “胜景” (Excellent scenery).

A distant view of the Hundred-Step Ladder.

We took the cable car down from Yuping Station (75 yuan), then took the scenic bus (19 yuan) to the visitor center. The Huangshan trip ended smoothly.

After lunch, we headed to Hongcun. Ticket: 104 yuan.

Landmark: South Lake.

We visited South Lake Academy, Jingde Hall, Chengzhi Hall, Wang Clan Ancestral Hall, Moon Pond, and other attractions, appreciating the beauty of architecture and the charm of culture amidst the white walls and black tiles.

Dinner was at a restaurant called “Old Neighbor Home Cooking.” We had originally intended to go to the previous night's place but saw several cars with local Anhui plate numbers there, thinking it might be good for a change.

Huizhou Stinky Mandarin Fish (98 yuan), Huangshan Two Stone Stew (168 yuan), with complimentary homemade medlar wine. The dishes were fresh; the fish was not so stinky, said to be improved to suit tourists from all over. I wonder what the authentic local flavor is like.

[Day 4] December 9, Rainy, 6-12°C, Huangshan → Nantong

Woke up naturally in the morning. After breakfast, we departed from Tangkou Town for the return trip. It rained all the way.

Thank you, heaven, for the blessing: it snowed the day before our arrival, rained when we left, and the two days in between were clear and sunny. Our meals, accommodation, and transportation went smoothly. Four days and three nights, 1,130 kilometers traveled, total cost for two: 3,300 yuan. We returned satisfied and will come again if opportunity arises.