September 2021 Trip to Southern Gansu and Northern Sichuan: A Journey through Tibetan Culture and a Fairyland of Magic Realms

📍 Jiuzhaigou · 👁 9749 reads · ❤️ 36 likes

While wandering in Hangzhou, I suddenly had the whimsical idea to visit Gannan. Having traveled around many places, I had repeatedly missed Gannan. This time, without hesitation, I quickly planned a route, deciding to enter from the east and exit to the south, taking in Guizhou and Hunan along the way, before returning to Guangdong:

1. Enter through the secret realm of Zhuoni in Gannan, head north to Hezuo County to Labrang Monastery and Baishiya;

2. Then go south to Langmusi, east to Zhagana and double back;

3. Continue south to Awancang to visit Niangma Temple, where the world's largest prayer wheel is located;

4. Make a small detour to Aryê's Nyainbo Yuzê, where the mountains are majestic and beautiful, with lakes scattered like stars—a magical and beautiful place;

5. Head east to the Zoigê Wetland, passing through Dalu Ancient Tibetan Village.

6. Traverse the scenic highway south to Nen'ensangcuo, a scenic spot that combines Jiuzhaigou and Huanglong, then to Songpan;

7. Pass through Chongqing, to Tongren's Red Stone Forest in Guizhou;

8. Take country roads to Fenghuang Ancient Town, then head to Chenzhou's Gaoyi Ridge;

9. Enter Guangdong's Lechang, visit the low-key Jinji Ridge, and return to Shenzhen.

Yesterday I was still at Hangzhou's Orioles Singing in the Willows, and today I'm packed and leaving. I plan to cover two thousand kilometers in two days, with an overnight stop in Tianshui.

Stayed at Tianshui Jinjiang Inn Pinshang Hotel, located by the lake. In the evening, I could take a walk on the boardwalk. Near the hotel, there was a halal lamb paomo restaurant. I learned from the locals to tear the bread into small pieces and soak them in the lamb soup—the taste was pretty good.

By afternoon, I arrived at the entrance gate of Zhuoni. Gannan at last!

Seeing that it was still early, I visited Chanding Temple. The architecture was simple and solid, with golden and splendid roofs.

The courtyards where the lamas lived were neatly arranged, all with white walls and wooden doors, clean and orderly.

Dinner: Tibetan-style roast lamb chops.

In the morning, I went to Zhuoni's Dayu Valley Scenic Area. Yunjiang Gorge is the first attraction. Along the way, I passed Qibu Temple, Shennv Tan, and Sangbu Grassland. Half a day of driving was enough.

In the afternoon, I drove to Hezuo, passing several viewing platforms.

The viewing platform in Zhuoni County had not only a white pagoda but also a swing.

At Hongshankou viewing platform, I could capture the words "Secret Realm Zhuoni" written in rapeseed fields.

Was that highland barley being harvested?

The Ten-Thousand-Mu Terrace viewing platform naturally offered spectacular terraced fields.

Arrived at Milarepa Buddha Pavilion. The exterior was grand and brightly colored. To take a photo that looked like an advertisement, I had to lie on the ground—now I think it must have been the power of the Buddha.

The scripture debate was about to start, and the monks were running back.

The weather was cold and overcast. I used a drone at the viewing platform opposite Labrang Monastery to take a panoramic shot.

Continued to Baishiya. At the entrance of the scenic area, there was a tent hotel that looked luxurious and low-key—it would be beautiful in a photo. I originally thought this was a hidden gem, but the cloudy weather greatly diminished the scenery. Still, since I was there, I completed the loop.

Baishiya Scenic Area has Baishiya Temple. As I walked toward the temple, a lama on the main hall's roof was blowing a long horn. The sound was deep and mysterious, like an invisible rope pulling my feet. I wanted to take a photo but didn't dare to be too obvious. I pressed the shutter from afar. Can you see the lama on the roof?

At the foot of the mountain, the Octagonal Ancient City is still inhabited. It was my first time seeing such a regular octagonal shape.

The distant farmland looked like a palette.

The scenic area is a driving loop without backtracking. There was another attraction in the middle with a parking lot. The mountain shapes were dense and fierce—undoubtedly a secret realm.

When I passed Gahai Lake, it was already late, but I still went in for a stroll.

In the evening, I arrived at Langmusi Town. In front of the hotel, I could see the Red Stone Cliff. The mural facing the small river was very vivid—the yak seemed to leap out, and the old man spinning a prayer wheel with his back to me remains fresh in my memory. I didn't take a photo of that mural at the time, but later on Douyin, I actually found the painter. I boldly asked for a complete mural—and I got it! So happy!

After dropping off my luggage, I went looking for food. The streets were full of Sichuan cuisine.

In the morning, I visited Langmusi. That day, the monks were distributing rice and oil, carrying them on their shoulders and pushing small carts—a lively scene.

In the afternoon, I went to Zhagana. It took another ten-plus kilometers by car to enter the scenic area. At Zhagana, two viewing platforms on the way to Fairy Beach were enough to capture a panoramic view. Then, going downhill, I passed a large grassy slope—a Swiss-like landscape right there.

Continued to stay in Langmusi at night. This time, I found good food in the town: "Sadiye Tip-of-the-Tongue Noodle Slices." I ordered a large bowl of noodle slices and secret-recipe beef brisket—fully satisfied.

Set out early in the morning for Awancang Wetland. The vast grassland had abundant water and rich grass, with sturdy cattle and sheep. The sheep's horns curved horizontally, very distinctive.

There was also Niangma Temple, with the world's largest prayer wheel. I followed the Tibetans in circling it devoutly.

In the afternoon, I arrived at Aryê County. Visited Gemo Monastery, a modern monastery, and also walked around a mosque.

Checked into the hotel. Since I planned to stay for a few days, I chose a room with plenty of sunlight. That turned out to be wise, as the temperature was quite low at the time.

Strolled around Aryê County. Langyi Monastery and Duodeng Monastery were on the hillside, offering a view of the entire town.

The small courtyards where monks studying there lived.

Sage Monastery was in one corner of the county. In the afternoon, people were circling the monastery.

I wanted to go to Nyainbo Yuzê, but the weather was bad, so I continued waiting in Aryê. Gerdeng Monastery is the largest Gelug monastery in Aryê County. When I entered, the monks were studying scripture debate. Groups of over twenty people responded loudly. Although I couldn't understand, I could feel their serious attitude. Several devotees with luggage devoutly circled around, some bowing, some sitting.

The weather finally cleared, so I set out for Nyainbo Yuzê. It stands between Aryê, Jiuzhi, and Baima counties, like a giant stone castle rising from the plateau. With strange peaks, glacial remains, and snowy mountain lakes, it is a magical fairyland.

After buying tickets at the visitor center, I could drive in. I drove directly to Panyangping Service Center, and at the 4250-meter-altitude viewing platform, I enjoyed a panoramic view of Nyainbo Yuzê.

There was also a lonely, modern coffee shop there, though not yet open. Its all-glass exterior exuded a trendy vibe.

Going downhill to Zhaga'ercuo Lake. The lake water was clear and calm. Behind the lake were sheer cliffs like swords and axes, giving a magnificent sense of solitary mountains towering thousands of feet.

On the way back to the parking lot, a group of young lamas came running cheerfully, adding a splash of color to the golden background.

The weather changed quickly. By the time I returned to the parking lot, dark clouds covered the sky and hail fell. Turning back to look at the road I had come from, it was completely swallowed by clouds.

I drove to Zoigê Grassland. The Tibetan houses along the way were richly colorful.

At sunset, I flew the drone and captured the winding river channels on the grassland.

Early morning, zero degrees outside. I went to see the cloud and water spectacle. Because the ground air over Zoigê Grassland is cold, the river surface is relatively warm, with abundant water vapor. The vapor condensed into a large amount of white mist upon meeting the cold.

I shot the Zoigê Wetland again.

Along the scenic highway—the Jiuru Road—I saw the M-shaped highway.

Arrived at Dalu Township, which is over twenty kilometers from Nen'ensangcuo. I planned to stay in Dalu Township tonight.

Went to see Dalu Ancient Tibetan Village. The village was built on the mountainside, very similar to Guizhou's Miao villages. At the entrance, some elderly people were chatting. No one lived there anymore; they had moved to the foot of the mountain where living conditions are better. The surviving wooden structures looked somewhat dilapidated, but Dalu Monastery had just been renovated, resplendent and magnificent. The road to the monastery was still under construction. Everyone was very friendly, smiling at me.

At the Sichuan restaurant next to the guesthouse, we ordered a pot of chicken soup per our instructions. A whole chicken stewed with mushrooms and lettuce. Delicious—better than all the restaurants along the way.

"Nen'ensangcuo" in Tibetan means "the place where fairies bathe," also known as Immortal Pond. It is a paradise that combines Jiuzhaigou and Huanglong. Large slopes were covered with yellow and white calcium deposits, forming pools of varying sizes with bright colors, along with alpine lakes and primeval forests. The scenic area has a route that goes right up and left down, a reasonable layout. Nen'ensangcuo has few visitors. We even had lunch at the visitor center, at a reasonable price and in an elegant environment.

Along the Jiuru Highway, I enjoyed the scenery. There were two viewing platforms where I could see the 28 switchbacks. The red highway wound along the hillside—spectacular!

Arrived at Songpan County.

At sunset, I took a walk in Songzhou Ancient Town.

Arrived at Tongling, Chongqing. Ate and rested for two days.

Drove to Tongren, Guizhou. There was a viewing platform on the way.

The La'ershan Red Stone Forest in Songtao County, Tongren, Guizhou, is still under development and not yet charging an entrance fee. It formed about 450 million years ago, originally a sea, later shaped by crustal movement, erosion, and dissolution. The stone forest is reddish-brown in color, more vivid at sunset. Visitors can wander through it; the strangely shaped rocks seem as if chiseled by hand.

Played until sunset, then went to Fenghuang Ancient Town.

Since I was here, I took a walk in Fenghuang Ancient Town, but the town is all new buildings with a strong commercial atmosphere.

At noon, I headed toward Hunan, to Hengyang.

Gaoyi Ridge was about to officially open, so I couldn't enter. Instead, I went to the nearby Niubei Mountain. Niubei Mountain is a large rock shaped like a cow's back. Walking on the ridge, with cliffs on both sides, was quite thrilling. It's a great spot for photos and drone flying.

Then I entered Guangdong, to Lechang's Jinji Ridge. Jinji Ridge is a Danxia landform. It gets its name from a red sandstone rock shaped like a golden rooster on the ridge. Climbing the steps from the main entrance, I saw the Danxia cliff—Yizi Peak. The ridge has little flat ground, mostly deep valleys and steep cliffs. The scenery is dangerously beautiful, with very few visitors—a low-key scenic area.

Entering Guangdong, I was close to home. This travelogue ends here. Farewell!

Travelogue Index:

1. Preamble: Hangzhou, Tianshui

2. Day 1: Zhuoni

3. Day 2: Dayu Valley, Milarepa Buddha Pavilion

4. Day 3: Labrang Monastery, Baishiya, Gahai Lake

5. Day 4: Langmusi, Zhagana

6. Day 5: Awancang, Niangma Temple, Gemo Monastery

7. Day 6: Langyi Monastery, Duodeng Monastery, Sage Monastery

8. Day 7: Gerdeng Monastery

9. Day 8: Nyainbo Yuzê, Zoigê

10. Day 9: Zoigê, Jiuru Highway, Dalu Tibetan Village