Self-Drive Tour of Five Provinces: Jiangsu, Anhui, Hubei, Jiangxi, and Guangdong (Part 6)
This was a spontaneous trip!
No planning, just packed a simple bag, two people, one car, and off we went!
Along the way, we looked for tourist attractions, but they were all places I had wanted to visit but never had. After returning, I revisited them one by one: starting from Yangzhou, Jiangsu, we crossed five provinces round trip.
In 2016, I drove to Guangdong via the eastern route—south on G15, return on G25—and saw almost all the major coastal scenery. This time, I took the central route—south on G45, return on G35.
The main attractions included: Shizhong Mountain, Xunyang Tower, Sizu Temple, Meiguan Ancient Path, Danxia Scenic Area, Nanhua Zen Temple, Pinghai Ancient City, Hanxian Rock, Ruijin, Hongcun Village, Huangshan Mountain, and Jiuhua Mountain.
In the morning, we visited Hongcun, then drove to Tangkou Town at the foot of Huangshan. At noon, we had lunch at the scenic area entrance and then toured Huangshan.
**Stop 11: Mount Huangshan**
Mount Huangshan, originally named "Yishan," is said to have been the site where the Yellow Emperor made elixirs, hence its current name. It has 72 peaks, 88 peaks over 1,000 meters, with the main peak being Lotus Peak at 1,864 meters. Together with Bright Summit and Heavenly Capital Peak, they are known as the three main peaks of Huangshan. Ming dynasty traveler Xu Xiake praised it: "After climbing Huangshan, there is no mountain under heaven worth seeing; the view is complete." This led to the saying: "After returning from the Five Sacred Mountains, one doesn't care to see other mountains; after returning from Huangshan, one doesn't care to see the Five Sacred Mountains."
"After climbing Huangshan, there is no mountain under heaven"—Huangshan is the finest of all famous mountains and is a UNESCO World Natural and Cultural Heritage site.
The most prominent stone inscription on Jade Screen Peak is Chairman Mao's "Our land is so rich in beauty."
Huangshan's iconic image: the Welcoming Pine.
A large stone wedged between two mountains, inscribed with "Wenshu Stone."
Clouds and mist covered the summit of Heavenly Capital Peak.
The afternoon sun tinted the clouds with colorful hues.
The distant peak is Heavenly Capital Peak. Because Heavenly Capital Peak and Lotus Peak alternate opening every five years, this time I climbed Lotus Peak. When Heavenly Capital Peak reopens in 2024, Lotus Peak will be closed for rest.
On the trail up Lotus Peak.
Like a walrus curiously gazing into the distance.
Looking back at the climbing path.
Lotus Peak, 1,864.8 meters.
Passed through the Hundred-Step Cloud Ladder and up the One-Line-Sky.
Reached Turtle Peak, where many were waiting for the sunset. In the fading light, the clouds above shifted constantly, while below strange peaks and rocks stood majestically. Steam and clouds created a magnificent spectacle, drawing exclamations of beauty.
Left as darkness fell; a light rain began, so we hurried.
Checked into the Xihai Hotel on Huangshan.
Early next morning, we planned to go to Danxia Peak for sunrise. When we reached Paiyun Pavilion, the sky was thick with clouds, so we gave up.
Huangshan valley in heavy mist.
Stone forest and vegetation shaped by wind and sun over time.
Returned to Xihai Hotel.
Headed toward Shixin Peak.
Black Tiger Pine, one of Huangshan's ten famous pines. Legend says a passerby saw a black tiger lying on top of the pine and was startled. When he looked again, the tiger was gone, replaced by a tall, majestic pine with a fierce aura—hence the name.
Lovers' Pine, also among the ten famous pines, said to be the incarnation of Emperor Tang Minghuang and his beloved Yang Guifei.
Climbing high for a panoramic view of the magnificent landscape.
Shixin Peak: "If you don't reach Shixin Peak, you haven't seen Huangshan pines."
Eighteen Arhats Worshiping the South Sea. The uneven stone pillars in the distance are vividly said to be facing the South Sea and bowing to Guanyin Bodhisattva.
In a flash, mist rose among the mountains.
Vaguely visible Stone Bamboo Shoots Gully.
A left hand standing on the peak.
Took the cable car down to Cloud Valley Temple, then transferred to scenic transport to Tangkou, ending the Huangshan tour.
In 1996, I passed by Huangshan but couldn't go up due to bad weather. That evening, I went to a hotel karaoke bar in Huangshan city. I took the mic, introduced myself as from Jiangsu, and apologized that I couldn't fully enjoy the trip because of heavy rain. I recited a poem and sang a song: "Will You Still Love Me Tomorrow?" Trying to recall, the poem went: "Heart and rain merge, hard to find, thoughts like waves on the winding mountain road. When can the sweet dream come true? Only because the mountain's fate hasn't arrived. Huangshan kindly invited me, but heaven didn't cooperate with tears of rain. I walked around the famous site, not knowing when I would be fully free!" Twenty-six years went by, and now I finally fulfilled my wish. Two months ago, classmates had invited me to Huangshan, but the epidemic delayed the plan. Overall, my luck was good this time. Except for the cloudy morning that prevented seeing the sunrise at Danxia Peak, other times when I arrived, thick fog would clear away. The inscriptions on Jade Screen Peak were bright, with famous masters everywhere. The sunset at Turtle Peak was stunning and mysterious. The One-Line-Sky was a bit steep, and I ran up its 148 steps in one go. The domed Bright Summit was unremarkable, just walking up and down. Heavenly Capital Peak was closed; I only saw the barrier when I went down to the valley. The last section of Lion Peak was also blocked, so I could only reach the Stone Monkey Gazing at the Sea. Shixin Peak isn't high, but after admiring the Welcoming Pine, I climbed Lotus Peak. From there, I looked down at the strange rocks, pine forests, and sea of clouds—nature's finest creations. It felt like the sky was high and clouds were vast, with myriad peaks paying homage. That fulfilled my wish, leaving no regret.
Climbing was tiring, but my heart was content! Since I got my wish, I composed more verses:
(1) My soul flies to the Huangshan pines, with lush branches and vigorous spirit, clinging to steep cliffs, just to welcome guests.
(2) Beyond white clouds, three thousand ren high, myriad forms stand silently in grandeur; drifting clouds create a dreamlike realm, as if fairy palaces descended to earth.
But this trip to Huangshan missed the West Sea Grand Canyon and Heavenly Capital Peak. I hope to revisit after 2024 when the opportunity arises.
Left Huangshan and drove to the next stop.
**Stop 12: Mount Jiuhua**
Mount Jiuhua is a miraculous creation of nature, pure and refined, known as the "Lotus Buddhist Kingdom." Its peaks vie in beauty, with grotesque rocks everywhere. The nine main peaks resemble nine lotus flowers in various poses. The continuous peaks form a natural sleeping Buddha, a perfect fusion of natural landscape and Buddhist culture. The area is filled with clear streams, deep pools, waterfalls, and springs, creating refreshing landscape paintings. Natural wonders like cloud seas, sunrises, rime ice, and Buddha's light add to its splendor, earning it the reputation of "surpassing the beauty of Jiangnan."
Mount Jiuhua is world-famous as the bodhimanda of Kṣitigarbha Bodhisattva. In 719 AD, Prince Kim Gyo-gak of Silla (Korea) crossed the sea to Tang China, settled at Jiuhua, and practiced asceticism for 75 years, passing away at age 99. Because many auspicious signs before and after his death matched those of Kṣitigarbha described in sutras, monks revered him as the incarnation of Kṣitigarbha, and Jiuhua became the bodhimanda. Inspired by Kṣitigarbha's great vow—"Only when all beings are saved will I attain Buddhahood; as long as hell is not empty, I vow not to become a Buddha"—temples multiplied from the Tang dynasty onward, monks gathered, and incense flourished like nowhere else. Jiuhua now has 99 temples, nearly a thousand monks and nuns, and over 10,000 Buddha statues. Throughout history, many eminent monks emerged, and 15 holy bodies (flesh relics) have been naturally preserved. Five are currently viewable. Among them, the body of Ming-dynasty monk Wuxia was conferred the title "Nirmana-body Bodhisattva" by the Chongzhen Emperor. Under the constantly humid climate, the preservation of these non-decaying bodies remains a mystery of life science, drawing widespread attention and adding a solemn and mysterious aspect to Jiuhua.
The gateway of Jiuhua Sacred Realm, inscribed with the characters "行愿无尽" (Endless Vows).
The Heart-Stilling Platform, with a Dharma wheel in the center.
Ascending step by step feels like a form of practice.
The Flesh Relic Hall of Mount Jiuhua.
Jiuhua's cultural heritage is profound. Since the Jin and Tang dynasties, literary giants such as Tao Yuanming, Li Bai, Fei Guanging, Du Mu, Su Dongpo, and Wang Anshi visited and recited immortal poems. Painters like Huang Binhong, Zhang Daqian, Liu Haisu, and Li Keran left masterpieces. The great Tang poet Li Bai visited Jiuhua three times and wrote dozens of poems praising it. His line "Miao you fen er qi, ling shan kai jiu hua" (Miraculously divided into two qi, the sacred mountain opens nine lotuses) became the name-defining verse of Jiuhua.
China has four great Buddhist bodhimandas: Wutai Mountain (Manjusri), Emei Mountain (Samantabhadra), Putuo Mountain (Avalokitesvara), and Jiuhua Mountain (Kṣitigarbha). They are called "Golden Wutai, Silver Putuo, Copper Emei, and Iron Jiuhua." Since Jiuhua houses a holy flesh relic from Gaoyou, as a native of Gaoyou, I felt obliged to pay homage. Records show: Master Ciming, lay name Chen Wanchao, courtesy name Furu, Dharma name Daocan, was from Gaoyou, Jiangsu. Born in 1904 (Guangxu 30th year), on his birth, the room was filled with strange fragrance and clouds of dharma that lingered for three days. At age six, he walked alone to Puti Temple in his county. Because his mother objected, he returned home for three years. Then he went back to Puti Temple and begged Master Qingqing to shave his head and become a monk, receiving the name Ciming. In 1934, he received full ordination at Longchang Vinaya Temple on Baohua Mountain in Nanjing. In 1937, he studied under Master Laiguo at Gaomin Temple in Yangzhou, delving into Chan for over ten years. He was broad and strong, earning the nickname "Eight Hundred Jin" (roughly 800 pounds). In 1981, he returned to Jiuhua and lived alone in the Bell Pavilion of Dongya, ringing the bell and chanting Buddha's name daily. In 1986, he moved to the upper meditation hall of Jiuhua to practice Chan, strictly observing precepts and often carrying a spade. In October 1990, Ciming foresaw his passing. He summoned his senior disciple, Monk Degui, from Qimen. On November 26, he gave final instructions to his beloved disciple and left a verse: "Forgetting self and precepts of life, suchness remains unchanged. Truly hold and also let go; who dwells and sighs at emptiness?" With these words, he smiled and passed away at age 86. His disciples placed his body in a jar as instructed. On the Buddha Bathing Festival in the Yihai year (1995), they opened the jar. He sat in full lotus posture, his flesh intact, hair and nails undamaged, eyebrows and beard visible. Auspicious signs appeared, and a strange fragrance filled the air. His body was then enshrined in the Kṣitigarbha Chan Temple north of the Flesh Relic Hall. Inside the temple is a seven-story pagoda, and his true body is stored in the bottom two levels, so I couldn't see it. With palms together, I devoutly paid homage, circumambulated the hall three times, and left. I didn't explore other scenic spots due to time constraints. I set off back to Gaoyou and arrived home around 9 p.m., ending this self-drive tour.
