Destined Just to See You: Mount Jiuhua

Although I have never been to Jiuhua before, I have felt a connection to this place for many years. You could say this trip is for blessings, or perhaps to fulfill a vow made for a destined matter. So let me sincerely chant, 'Amituofo.' The main peak of Mount Jiuhua, Shiwang Peak, is 1,344.4 meters above sea level and belongs to the Huangshan Mountain range. The highest temple attraction is Tiantai Chan Temple, which faces Shiwang Peak. Mount Jiuhua is a land of outstanding people and abundant resources. Since the Tang Dynasty, many literati have settled here and written splendid poems. The immortal poet Li Bai even studied here. Mount Jiuhua is also one of the four famous Buddhist mountains in China, the bodhimanda of Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva.

Day 1: Self-drive to Mount Jiuhua. Morning: visit Huacheng Temple and Taibai Study Hall. Afternoon: take the cable car to Tiantai Scenic Area, visit Tiantai Temple. Evening: stroll through Jiuhua Old Street.

Day 2: Take the small cable car to Baisui Palace, visit Baisui Palace, the Five Hundred Arhats Hall, and Dongya Chan Temple. Afternoon: drive to the village in Lingyang Town at the back mountain, check in at the Chuxin Sanshe - Da Yin Xi Sheng Guesthouse, and experience a truly pastoral life.

Entering the Mount Jiuhua scenic area, whether by self-driving or by shuttle bus, the first stop is usually Huacheng Temple, also known as Dizang Temple, the founding temple of the Dizang bodhimanda. Its name dates back to the Tang Dynasty, originally called 'Huacheng.' The Huacheng Temple we see today has four well-preserved halls, all in the architectural style of southern Anhui folk houses. The half-moon pond in front of Huacheng Temple is also called the Release Pond. It is worth mentioning that the well-known 1986 version of 'Journey to the West' filmed the episode 'The Havoc in the Small Thunder Monastery' here.

The square in front of Huacheng Temple and the Release Pond are must-visit places for those who come to Mount Jiuhua to pray and seek destiny. The two stone lions in front of the gate have been preserved since the Ming Dynasty. On ordinary days, flocks of pigeons fly freely here, and from time to time tourists scatter food for them on the square. The four halls of Huacheng Temple are built on three terraces, rising layer by layer.

There is a saying about Huacheng Temple: 'Worship Maitreya when entering, worship Skanda when exiting.' Huacheng Temple houses more than 1,800 cultural relics, including the 'Avatamsaka Sutra,' copied over 28 years by the vow of Master Wuxia of Baisui Palace when he was a hundred years old, and imperial writings by Emperors Kangxi and Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty. The image above shows a Qing Dynasty hollow-carved longevity character stone chime.

The Baisui Palace Bowl is said to have been solicited by a Ming Dynasty eminent monk from Jingdezhen, obtaining an entire kiln of bowls with the words 'Jiuhuashan Baisui Palace,' later regarded as auspicious Buddhist objects.

There are 99 peaks around Huacheng Temple, and the gates of the temples on these peaks mostly face Huacheng Temple, indicating its significance.

Legend has it that when Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva was on Mount Jiuhua, he chanted sutras on Tiantai every morning, leaving footprints on the ground. Later, based on historical records of Mount Jiuhua, believers embroidered tiger-head and tiger-pattern monk caps and shoes to honor Jin Dizang and enshrined them in Huacheng Temple.

The Mahavira Hall of Huacheng Temple: if you go in to pray, remember to enter from the left and exit from the right, not through the middle door. The four halls ascend step by step: the first hall is the Lingguan Hall, the second is the Heavenly King Hall, the third is the Mahavira Hall. Notably, above the Mahavira Hall there are three caissons, one large and two small, built in the 15th year of Guangxu (1889). The large caisson has eight flying dragons carved on its octagonal part, plus a coiled dragon on top and a pearl ball, forming a 'Nine Dragons Playing with a Pearl,' still well-preserved. The fourth hall is a three-story Sutra Library, first built in the Ming Dynasty, where Ming Dynasty sutras and imperial edicts are treasured.

After leaving Huacheng Temple, a few minutes' walk brings you to Jiuhua Old Street. The Taibai Study Hall, located beside the old street, was where Li Bai lived in seclusion in 755 AD. Later, in the early years of the Jiaxi period of the Southern Song Dynasty (around 1237), Cai Yuanlong, the county magistrate of Qingyang, renovated it in memory of Li Bai's second visit to Jiuhua. Li Bai left many famous poems here, the most familiar being 'Miraculous harmony of two energies, the sacred mountain unveils nine lotuses.'

Walking into the century-old study hall, you feel a poetic and artistic ambiance. The backyard of the study hall has been transformed into a garden tea house, where you can sit in the shade, sip tea, and imagine the immortal days the poet spent here. It is truly pleasant.

The two ancient ginkgo trees in the courtyard are said to be over 1,200 years old, reportedly planted by Li Bai during his seclusion here. Next to the ginkgo trees is the Taibai Well, where Li Bai used to draw water for brewing tea. Later, in the Song Dynasty, it was turned into a square well. The well water is still of excellent quality and appears very clear.

After visiting Huacheng Temple and Taibai Study Hall in the morning, take a rest and have lunch on the old street. Then head to the lower cable car station of the Tiantai Scenic Area and take the cable car up to Tiantai (it would take more than two hours to hike this section). The cable car ride takes about ten minutes, reaching the mountain top at over 1,000 meters elevation. Then a seven- or eight-minute walk allows you to overlook the Ancient Worship Sutra Platform.

Less than ten minutes' walk down the steps from the cable car, you can see Guanyin Peak and the Ancient Worship Sutra Platform in the distance. When it comes to Mount Jiuhua, it really has a connection with the number 'nine.' First, there are 99 peaks here. Jin Dizang lived to the age of 99, and the current large bronze statue of Jin Dizang is also 99 meters tall. I heard at Huacheng Temple this morning that many temples around Huacheng Temple do not face south or north but open toward Huacheng Temple.

Mount Jiuhua is known for its numerous peaks, often called the 99 peaks, with over 30 peaks above 1,000 meters. During the Tianbao reign of the Tang Dynasty, the great poet Li Bai, 'when traveling from Jinling to Qiupu, renamed the Nine Sons Mountain to Jiuhua.' According to records, Jin Qiaojue came to Mount Jiuhua during the height of the Tang Dynasty. When he retreated into the mountains, he found the peaks towering into the clouds and stretching for miles, so he began to cultivate here, giving rise to the story of one mountain and one monk—later known as Jin Dizang.

If you walk through the old street or nearby villages, you can hear many legends about Jin Dizang from the older local villagers, including the story of his mount, the 'Di Ting.' Legend has it that once Jin Dizang was sitting on a rock at Dongya Chan Temple meditating when he was stung by a poisonous insect. But his will was firm, and he sat still. Soon a beautiful woman came to apologize, saying, 'Sorry, my son hurt you. To make amends, I offer a sweet spring.' As she spoke, a sweet spring immediately gushed from the rock, later called the Five Streams Water. This woman is said to be the mountain god of Jiuhua by locals. There are many more such stories.

In 794, at the age of 99, Jin Dizang suddenly gathered his disciples, said he was leaving, and then passed away sitting in meditation. His physical body is still preserved in the underground palace of the Jeweled Hall of the Body on Mount Jiuhua. Jin Dizang crossed the sea at the age of 24 and cultivated on Jiuhua for 75 years. His dedicated practice made Mount Jiuhua famous far and wide, and it became one of the four great Buddhist mountains in China.

The Ancient Worship Sutra Platform enshrines the large footprints of Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva, where Jin Dizang once stood to worship and chant the Avatamsaka Sutra, practicing cessation and contemplation with extraordinary diligence, leaving footprints embedded in the stone wall.

The highest temple on Mount Jiuhua, Tiantai Temple, faces the highest peak, Shiwang Peak, both over 1,300 meters above sea level. Tiantai Temple lies horizontally in the depression between Tiantai Peak and Yuping Peak. Although Shiwang Peak at 1,344.4 meters is the highest peak, there is no temple on it. Tiantai Temple, at 1,306 meters, is the highest temple on Jiuhua. Thus, common folk sometimes consider Tiantai Peak, where the temple is located, as the main peak. Watching the sunrise and sea of clouds here is exceptionally magnificent and spectacular. The 'Tiantai Dawn' scene is one of the 'Ten Scenes of Jiuhua.'

Throughout history, besides poetic praises, literati left hundreds of cliff inscriptions on Mount Jiuhua, such as the one carved on the Tiantai Qinglong Rock: 'How lofty is Jiuhua, touching the sky; my eyes are refreshed, my heart is broadened.' Each character is 78 cm long and 57 cm wide. There are many such cliff inscriptions.

On the way down from Tiantai Temple to the cable car, about half an hour's walk, there are many strange rock formations, such as the 'Roc Listening to Sutra Stone' and 'Golden Turtle Worshipping the Big Dipper.' Additionally, locals say that the annual Jiuhua Temple Fair on the 30th day of the seventh lunar month is very lively, also known as the Dizang Temple Fair, a large-scale folk pilgrimage festival to commemorate the birthday of Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva.

A five-minute cable car ride takes you to the mountain area where Baisui Palace is located. A folk saying goes: 'If you don't visit Baisui Palace, your trip is in vain; once you visit Baisui Palace, everything will be successful.' Baisui Palace was first built in the Ming Dynasty, located on the top of Chaxiao Peak's Motian Ridge. Originally called 'Zhaixing Nunnery,' meaning one could reach the stars by raising a hand. Later, it was renamed Baisui Palace in the Ming Dynasty because it houses the 126-year-old nirvana-achieved eminent monk, Master Wuxia.

The plaque in front of Baisui Palace reads: 'Protecting the Nation for Ten Thousand Years, Imperially Granted Baisui Palace.' The main hall is divided into two parts: the first is the Mahavira Hall, and the second is the hall enshrining the physical body of Master Wuxia.

The Five Hundred Arhats Hall is only about 100 meters from Baisui Palace, slightly higher in elevation. The first floor of the hall enshrines the Great Vow Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva, and the second floor enshrines 500 arhats. The five hundred arhats represent the transmission and development of Buddhism, and they are direct disciples of the Buddha.

Stinky Mandarin Fish (chòu guìyú) is a representative dish of Huizhou cuisine in southern Anhui. No need to explain much—those who like it love it very much. The flesh is white, tender, with a salty and fresh taste. Stinky Mandarin Fish is my number one Huizhou dish.

Stone Ear Scrambled Eggs is a very common and homely farmhouse dish in the Jiuhua area. Stone ear has a light fragrance and is stir-fried with golden local eggs, making it very delicious.

Jiuhua Fried Polygonatum (huángjīng) is a very distinctive local dish. Polygonatum is a great treasure of the area, a specialty mountain delicacy. Though it has little taste, it is nutritious and good for health.

Stone Ear Stewed Free-Range Chicken: Stone ear, a mountain treasure of Jiuhua, is rich in amino acids and nutrients. Simmered with free-range chicken over low heat, the broth is delicious and rich, the chicken firm and tasty. You can add local fried rice to the soup for extra flavor.

Lingyang One-Pot Dish: This farmhouse dish originates from nearby Lingyang. It uses dried beans, dried bamboo shoots, daylily, and sweet potato starch noodles as a base, topped with streaky pork and meatballs. The flavors of various ingredients blend together, creating a rich taste that goes very well with rice.

Lotus root shoots are also a specialty of the Jiuhua area. They are smaller and thinner than the lotus roots we usually see but are very crispy and tender.

Additionally, small river shrimp, dried bamboo shoots, and fiddlehead ferns are some distinctive foods of the Jiuhua area. The cooking methods are relatively simple, whether river delicacies or mountain treasures, preserving the original taste and nutrition as much as possible. Almost every restaurant serves these classic farmhouse dishes. If you have the chance to visit Mount Jiuhua, don't miss these foods.

When it comes to breakfast, the Jiuhua area is quite distinctive, such as big meat noodles, topping noodles, and the famous potstickers, all worth trying.

Located in Lingyang at the back of Mount Jiuhua, the Chuxin Sanshe - Da Yin Xi Sheng Guesthouse is a true paradise retreat. After driving more than 50 kilometers from the Jiuhua Visitor Center along winding mountain roads, enjoying the green mountains and clear waters, you arrive at this poetic and picturesque guesthouse.

Upon entering the yard, you see a large swimming pool. It is more like a place for children to play in the water, as it is only about 20 centimeters deep, so safety is not a concern. There are also fun inflatable toys like the big yellow duck and flamingo in the pool. The lush vegetation above the pool provides shade, so you can really let the kids play here for a long time.

The guesthouse's back garden leads directly to the mountains, and there is a hanging bridge. Passing through the bridge from the guesthouse means entering the mountains. Another way to cross the stream is via a trendy transparent boat. The stream is not deep, and the water is very clear. Even in July, the summer break, the mountain breeze is cool, and playing in the water makes you forget the heat outside—truly a paradise.

By the stream, there are many large rocks. Clear water flows from the mountain ravine. The water volume is ample this season. The guesthouse has set up a few bamboo and rattan tables and chairs by the stream. Sitting here is so enjoyable. If you put a watermelon in the cool stream for half a day and then cut it open, it's as if you're living like an immortal.

The guesthouse has only about a dozen guest rooms, not many, probably to ensure more privacy and quiet for guests. We got a starry sky room on the third floor with large floor-to-ceiling windows on both sides, facing the mountain view and the village opposite—one side is scenery, the other is worldly life.

The public areas of the guesthouse are thoughtfully arranged. The biggest feeling when checking in is comfort and tranquility. Being deep in the mountains allows you to relax your body and mind. There are sofas and rest areas everywhere, so you can sit down anytime for tea, coffee, or just daydream.

The bar at night is quite lively. On the night we stayed, the guesthouse owner personally sang on stage. This feeling of returning to nature and letting go is wonderful.

Although the drive from Mount Jiuhua to the guesthouse is a winding mountain road of more than 50 kilometers, which initially made us hesitate, we truly found that, as the guesthouse says, it is a hidden gem worth crossing mountains and ridges. This Chuxin Sanshe allowed me to discover it, and I love it.

Travelogue Contents: 1. Preface 2. Overview 3. Itinerary Planning 4. Day 1 Huacheng Temple 5. Day 1 Taibai Study Hall 6. Day 1 Tiantai Peak 7. Day 2 Baisui Palace 8. Day 2 Jiuhua Cuisine 9. Day 2 Chuxin Sanshe Guesthouse

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