20 Days, 20,000 Li Self-Drive Tibet (Part 4) – Potala Palace ~ Jokhang Temple ~ Barkhor Street ~ Ramoche Temple

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1. 20 Days, 20,000 Li Self-Drive Tibet (Part 1) – Erlang Mountain ~ Zheduo Mountain ~ Kangba Prairie ~ Haizi Mountain

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2. 20 Days, 20,000 Li Self-Drive Tibet (Part 2) – Haitong Valley ~ Dongda Mountain ~ Nujiang 72 Turns ~ Ranwu Lake ~ Laigu Glacier

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3. 20 Days, 20,000 Li Self-Drive Tibet (Part 3) – Tongmai Bridge ~ Yigong Lake ~ Lulang ~ Showba Millennium Fortress ~ Basum Lake

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[Table of Contents for This Chapter]

Day 9: Lhasa Potala Palace ~ Jokhang Temple ~ Barkhor Street ~ Makye Ame ~ Ramoche Temple

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Day 9: Lhasa Potala Palace ~ Jokhang Temple ~ Barkhor Street ~ Makye Ame ~ Ramoche Temple

Meals: 275 Accommodation: Lawei International Hotel 180

Because my husband visited Lhasa ten years ago and had already toured the Potala Palace, Jokhang Temple and a few other sites, after seeing the ads on the tourist map, he contacted a tour agency so I could join a one-day group tour by myself. It is said that during the holiday period, Potala Palace tickets are in high demand and individuals need to book them online one day in advance.

At 7:30 in Lhasa, it was still dark.

We arrived at the meeting point—the Hongshan Hotel near the Potala Palace—at the scheduled time. After discussing the itinerary with the guide, considering the schedule, he still suggested that I queue up to buy a ticket and visit on my own.

Ways to reserve Potala Palace tickets: 1. Website (); 2. Through travel agencies; 3. Get up early and queue on site to make a reservation.

As the sky gradually brightened, a long queue had already formed at the Potala Palace reservation office. Many were tour guides reserving on behalf of clients; one person waited while the tourists who had made reservations came with their ID cards to pick up tickets together. Looking at the long line, a guide ahead said: "During the National Day holiday, it's crowded these days. After the 5th, there won't be many people."

Standing in the queue, I watched the sky grow brighter, listened to the guides ahead calling tourists to hurry up, and saw people walking back and forth with backpacks asking tourists if they needed a guide for 50 yuan per person. If needed, they could get tickets early. There were a few young people ahead asking about chartering a car to Yamdrok Lake... They reached a deal and were indeed taken forward.

When it was fully light, around 9:20, the queue started moving. We shuffled along in a winding line, and when we reached the front, I realized this was where numbers were handed out. There were separate windows for groups and individual visitors. Did the earlier mention of getting tickets early mean taking them to the group window?

I provided my ID card and got a reservation ticket for entry at 10:40.

After getting the ticket, I turned back—opposite was Yaowang Mountain; my husband had gone there on his own to visit.

Walking east from the reservation office, opposite is the square.

After a while, I saw this visitor guide—reminding that after getting the reservation ticket, you should head early to the entrance and queue up.

At the Potala Palace entrance, a long queue.

Seeing the young people ahead taking photos of their reservation tickets, I took one too.

Queuing to enter the gate, I handed the reservation ticket and ID card to the staff for verification—once across that threshold, I had "entered the palace."

Entering the gate, following the crowd into the inner courtyard—here the crowd spread out and it was less crowded.

Potala Palace introductions—Tibetan, Chinese, English.

Climbing up the steps from here, before entering the main gate, on a platform between the stairs, there is a small hut whose window sells the official admission ticket, 200 yuan per person.

Entering the gate, continue upward.

[This stele is erected to commemorate the completion of the Potala Palace's Red Palace. In 1690 (Iron Horse Year of the Tibetan calendar), the Red Palace began construction. In 1693 (Water Bird Year of the Tibetan calendar), the Red Palace was completed; on the 20th day of the fourth month of the Tibetan calendar that year, a grand completion ceremony was held, and a wordless stone stele was erected in front of the palace to commemorate the event.]

The few steps to the left rear of the wordless stele in the photo are where the Dalai Lama mounts and dismounts his horse.

[A large portion of the Potala Palace's walls are white; this part is called the White Palace. The tallest central structure, colored red, is the Red Palace, while a few lower buildings are yellow. The use of these three colors on the Potala Palace is not merely for exterior beauty—each color has deep meaning: red represents mastery over the three realms, white signifies dwelling in tranquility, and yellow symbolizes longevity, inexhaustible blessings, and prosperity.

Red and white are the dominant hues of the Potala Palace, representing the theocratic system of the time. The White Palace, looking like snow mountains from afar, served as the office premises, monks' quarters, and storage for the then Kashag government. The Red Palace is essentially an important venue for religious ceremonies.]

This is the prison of the Potala Palace—officials who broke the law were punished and confined here. I had once heard that brutal punishments like gouging out eyes were used to penalize these criminals.

In the past, serfs who couldn't repay their loans accumulated debts across generations, binding entire generations to servitude.

This is the main path of the Potala Palace.

The Dalai Lama coming out of the Red Palace.

Walking along the main path to the steps beside the wordless stele—this exclusive mark is the place for the Dalai Lama to mount and dismount his horse.

These steps are also reserved for the Dalai Lama’s mounting and dismounting—without railings, and no tourists walk on them.

Standing here, looking into the distance—clouds shifting, mountains silent.

Every step bears the marks of time.

The exterior walls of the Potala Palace mainly feature red walls and white walls.

[Red Wall: Constructed by stacking red grasses called pema grass. Pema grass is actually a tamarisk branch, dried in autumn, tips removed and bark stripped, then tied into fist-thick bundles with yak leather ropes, neatly piled together, layer by layer rammed firm, fixed with wooden pegs, and dyed ochre red. This is the pema grass wall.

Thanks to the pema grass, the top-layer walls of the building can be built thinner, thereby reducing the wall's weight. For the 13-story-high Potala Palace, this is crucial.]

The white wall coating contains white lime, milk, sugar, honey, saffron and other ingredients. Because this special coating has fresh properties and high viscosity, it is a traditional coating.

The walls are repainted once every year, funded and labored voluntarily by Tibetan donors.

Over the years, the special composition of the white coating, weathered by rain, forms a unique wall surface.

Blue sky and white clouds, red and white distinct.

Tibetan Buddhism auspicious knot—doesn't it look familiar?

Flashback*************************************************************************************************************************

September 2009 Looking at Lhasa from the Potala Palace

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Following the steps upwards, entering the square in front of the Red Palace.

Flashback*************************************************************************************************************************

September 2009

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To visit the Red Palace, enter through here.

Entering the gate, the steps are divided into three lanes: the left lane is for visitors going up, the right lane is empty, and the middle lane is closed—it is reserved for the Dalai Lama.

Yellow walls in the corridor, with some paint cracking at the corners.

Inside the Red Palace are the main places where the Dalai Lama lived, worked, and recited scriptures. Some exclusive rooms are not open to the public.

Since photography is not allowed inside the palace, there are no interior pictures.

[The Red Palace was built in 1690. At that time, Emperor Kangxi of the Qing dynasty specially sent over 100 Han, Manchu, and Mongol craftsmen to Tibet to participate in the vast expansion project of the Potala Palace. The main buildings of the Red Palace are various Buddhist halls and the stupas of the Dalai Lamas. Inside the palace are 8 stupas preserving the remains of various Dalai Lamas, with the stupa of the 5th Dalai Lama being the largest and most magnificent. The stupa body is wrapped in gold skin, inlaid with pearls and gems; it is said to have used over 110,000 taels of gold and 18,677 pieces of pearls, gems, coral, amber, agate, etc. The largest hall in the Red Palace, "Sisiphungcuo" (Western Hall), covers an area of 725 square meters. Above the central front of the hall hangs the plaque "Yonglian Chudi" bestowed by Emperor Qianlong, with a throne of the 6th Dalai Lama. The hall also houses a pair of large embroidered tents gifted by Emperor Kangxi, one of the treasures of the Potala Palace. The Supreme Three Realms Hall is the highest hall in the Red Palace. On a sutra shelf beside it is placed the Beijing edition of the Tanjur scriptures gifted by Emperor Yongzheng to the 7th Dalai Lama. The farthest west is the stupa hall of the 13th Dalai Lama, 14 meters high; it is said that the mandala inside is strung together with over 200,000 pearls.]

Going up and down through narrow wooden staircases, the light is relatively dim. Follow the one-way tour, with guides leading their own small groups of tourists—some using earphones and audio guides, some explaining louder with tourists listening, and there were even small groups of foreign guests with guides explaining in English... Passing among these visitors, I experienced various guiding styles.

About 50 minutes later, I exited the Red Palace.

Look at Lhasa from a different angle.

Yaowang Mountain opposite.

Walking down the western path "out of the palace", the weather was fine; I felt warm, so I took off my jacket and stuffed it into my backpack.

When I reached the street, I saw a truck parked with fresh yogurt in the carriage, very tempting, 10 yuan per carton.

I sprinkled some sugar, stirred and drank while walking—cool and refreshing, piercing to the heart.

Blue sky, white clouds, green trees, red flowers.

Potala Palace, tranquil and picturesque.

Flashback***********************************************************************************************************************

September 2009 Potala Palace

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While I was visiting the Potala Palace, my husband went to Yaowang Mountain~~

[Yaowang Mountain in Lhasa, Tibetan name Jabo Ri, meaning "Hill at the Mountain Corner". It is located to the right of the Potala Palace in Lhasa. Altitude 3,725 meters, with small paths leading to the summit. Inside it houses a sapphire Medicine Buddha statue, so Han people call it Yaowang Temple, also known as Yaowang Mountain. The Zhalapibbi Cave Monastery on the mountaintop is where practicing medical lamas reside. Yaowang Mountain and the Red Hill where the Potala Palace stands were originally connected by a low ridge, which was partly leveled when roads were built.]

[Purü Snow Temple, nestled on the hillside of Yaowang Mountain opposite the Red Hill where the Potala Palace stands. The mountain enshrines a statue of Shakyamuni Buddha and a portrait of Songtsen Gampo. Legend says the main Shakyamuni and his disciples' statue enshrined in the hall was naturally formed and later carved into relief by Nepalese artisans.]

Going east from Yaowang Mountain down is the square.

Tibet Peaceful Liberation Monument

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From the Potala Palace to Jokhang Temple, it's over 1 kilometer. Strolling over while drinking yogurt, it only took about ten minutes.

Under the bright sun, a bowl of yogurt was truly refreshing and cool.

Walking here, nearly at Jokhang Temple, I saw beautiful flowers and stopped to take photos.

A breeze came by, and suddenly I felt a chill on my back. Could it be that my clothes were damp from sweating earlier? I immediately took out my jacket and put it back on.

A short walk ahead brought me to the square in front of Jokhang Temple, where I queued for security checks to enter. In the square, a couple in festive Tibetan attire were taking wedding photos.

Flashback**********************************************************************************************************************

September 2009 Jokhang Temple

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[Jokhang Temple, also known as "Zulakang" or "Jokhang" (Tibetan meaning Buddha Hall), is located in the center of Lhasa’s old town. It is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery, built by King Songtsen Gampo. The reason Lhasa holds the reputation as a "Sacred Land" is related to this temple's statue. The temple was initially called "Rasa", which later became the city's name and evolved into present-day "Lhasa". After its completion, Jokhang Temple was expanded several times during the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties before reaching its current scale.

Jokhang Temple has a history of over 1,300 years and holds the highest status in Tibetan Buddhism. It is the most glorious surviving structure from the Tubo period in Tibet, the earliest civil engineering structure in Tibet, and pioneered the flatland temple layout typical of Tibetan monastic complexes.

The circumambulation around the innermost Shakyamuni Buddha hall is called "Nangkhor", around the outer wall is "Barkhor", and the streets radiating from Jokhang Temple are Barkhor Street, also known as Bakhor Street. Centered on Jokhang Temple, the larger circuit that includes the Potala Palace, Yaowang Mountain, and Ramoche Temple is called "Lingkhor". These three concentric circuits from inner to outer are the routes for Tibetan Buddhist kora rituals.

Jokhang Temple combines architectural styles from Tibet, Tang Dynasty China, Nepal, and India, becoming a timeless model of Tibetan religious architecture.

In front of the temple, incense burns day and night, and devout worshippers have left deep marks on the flagstone floor from countless prostrations. Thousands of butter lamps remain lit, preserving the traces of time and pilgrims.]

[Tickets: Free for Tibetans; visitor ticket 85 yuan. In the afternoon, there are lama debates on the 2nd-floor platform that are worth seeing. From October 20 each year to the following April 20, off-season tickets are 35 yuan. If you want to photograph inside the main hall, you must pay another 90 yuan for a photography permit, though some halls prohibit photography. Also, after buying a ticket, it's advisable to keep it; it remains valid if you revisit in the following days. For explanations by temple lamas, it's 50 yuan per session.]

In front of the gate, devout worshippers perform full-body prostrations.

Buy tickets at the right-side window, 85 yuan each. Enter for the visit from the entrance beside the blue awning to the right of the gate in the photo above.

Flashback**********************************************************************************************************************

September 2009 Jokhang Temple

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Songtsen Gampo married the Nepalese Princess Bhrikuti and the Chinese Princess Wencheng. To console their longing for their homeland after arriving in Tibet, he built Jokhang Temple and Ramoche Temple respectively for them, each facing their home country.

Jokhang Temple faces west.

[Legend says the site of Jokhang Temple was originally a lake. By this lake, Songtsen Gampo promised Princess Bhrikuti that he would build a Buddhist hall wherever her ring landed. Unexpectedly, the ring fell right into the lake, where the surface was suddenly covered with a net of light, and a nine-tier white stupa appeared within. Thus began the massive construction project using a thousand white goats to carry earth. Jokhang Temple took over three years to build. Because in Tibetan, "goat" is "ra" and "earth" is "sa", to commemorate the goats' contribution, the hall was first named "Rasa", later changed to "Zulakang" (Scripture Hall), also called "Jokhang" (Buddha Hall), with the full name "Rasa Gaxichengxiang Zulakang", meaning"built by goats carrying earth". The name "Jokhang" is said to be associated with the "Great Prayer Festival" that began in the 15th century.]

[Jokhang Temple's layout differs from Han Buddhist monasteries; its main hall faces east to west. The main hall is four stories high, with side halls on both sides, reproducing the cosmic ideal model of the Buddhist mandala altar in its layout. The temple's main halls include the Shakyamuni Hall, Tsongkhapa Master Hall, Songtsen Gampo Hall, Palden Lhamo Hall (the protective deity of Gelug school), Divine Goat Ramjime Hall, Tibetan Kings Hall, etc. Throughout the temple, exquisite wood carvings and murals pervade, the air fragrant with butter aroma, and Tibetan devotees worship and circumambulate with reverent expressions.]

Visit the halls in a clockwise direction. Following temple rules, once inside a hall, no more photography.

After about 50 minutes, I reached the exit. This is the monks' dormitory.

Returning to the square in front of Jokhang Temple.

[Barkhor Street, also known as Bakhor Street, is located in the old town area of Lhasa. It is the famous kora path and commercial center, preserving relatively intact the traditional cityscape and living habits. Originally, Barkhor Street was merely the kora path around Jokhang Temple, called "Holy Road" by Tibetans. It has gradually expanded into a large area of old-style neighborhoods surrounding the temple. Barkhor Street is a polygonal loop consisting of Barkhor East Street, Barkhor West Street, Barkhor South Street, and Barkhor North Street, with a circumference of over 1,000 meters. There are many side alleys, totaling 35 streets and lanes.]

Barkhor Street, encircling Jokhang Temple, a name I've long heard of—now I was finally walking here. Along with the bustling crowd, I went clockwise.

Flowers were blooming on window sills.

Along the street, shops with various distinctive characteristics exude a strong Tibetan cultural atmosphere.

Flashback************************************************************************************************************************

September 2009

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I was walking and looking alone when suddenly someone from behind quietly covered my eyes... Haha, they finally found me!

Since setting off on the 25th, it's the ninth day, and today was the first time we each acted independently. After being apart for most of the day, now we were strolling together again!

The Former Site of the Qing Government's Amban Office in Tibet.

As we passed by, a squad of soldiers was marching out—during the National Day holiday, there were patrols on the streets.

Since planning the trip, my husband had said that when we got to Lhasa, he would take me to a place to eat—a place with an ancient, beautiful legend that has now become an internet-famous check-in spot.

We had walked a long way today without eating much, so we looked as we walked, and soon we arrived—

[Makye Ame, located at the southeastern corner of Barkhor Street, Lhasa, Tibet, is a restaurant specializing in Nepalese, Indian, and Tibetan cuisine.]

Flashback************************************************************************************************************************

September 2009 Makye Ame

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The first floor has been turned into a clothing store. Up a narrow wooden staircase to the second floor, there were many people sitting and waiting in line at the entrance. The waiter said the second and third floors were full and we needed to wait a while.

There were still a few numbers ahead of us, so we sat down to wait. Coming indoors from the warm sunshine outside, I felt a chill as I settled—could it be that drinking that yogurt on an empty stomach brought on a cold?—I felt a cold coming on. I took out my water cup, asked the waiter for hot water, and had chai hu (bupleurum) in my bag, so I brewed three packs consecutively and drank them down.

Some people left, and as numbers were called, we shared a table. We passed through the second-floor hall to the third floor—actually a converted rooftop platform, with no windows all around, directly overlooking Barkhor Street.

I heard that in Tibet, drinking more butter tea can ward off colds; get a pot! (25 yuan)

275 yuan—not just a meal, but fulfilling a legendary dream.

Seeing guests queuing outside, after eating, we left our seats and went downstairs. Passing through the second-floor hall, guests were eating while listening to someone animatedly recounting the legend of Makye Ame...

Seeing vacant seats, we sat down to listen too~~

"On that eastern mountain peak, a bright white moon rises. Makye Ame's smile floats in my heart."—In the legend, on a moonlit night, Tsangyang Gyatso rode out from the palace to the yellow house on Barkhor Street and met the beautiful Makye Ame.

The love story of Makye Ame and Tsangyang Gyatso perhaps perfectly fit people's imaginations of forbidden love. Thus, the saying spread: Makye Ame's window is the "worldly red dust window." Outside is the bustling mortal world; inside is a long-lost tranquility. People come here in droves, trying to experience the legendary romance they've imagined.

Tsangyang Gyatso, the 6th Dalai Lama, originally of the Monpa ethnic group. In 1697, he was recognized by Desi Sangye Gyatso as the reincarnated soul boy of the 5th Dalai Lama, and the enthronement ceremony was held that same year. Tsangyang Gyatso's bold and sincere love poems further convinced people of the legend.

Due to the special status of the 6th Dalai Lama and the strict rules against worldly love, Tsangyang Gyatso's poems were used by opponents to fabricate the Makye Ame legend as a tool to attack him, and he began a wandering life. Eventually, because of political-religious disputes, Emperor Kangxi decreed to depose the 6th Dalai Lama and escort him to the capital. It is said that in 1706, during the escort, Tsangyang Gyatso mysteriously disappeared when they reached Qinghai Lake...

The ephemeral red dust world sees great changes; disputes turn to dust while beautiful legends survive the ages.

Coming here really wasn't just about a meal.

Flashback**************************************************************************************************************************

September 2009 Makye Ame

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After leaving Makye Ame, we continued walking along the main street.

[Ramoche Temple (Ramoqê Gönba), called "Gyadrang Muchuk" in Tibetan, is located about 500 meters north of Barkhor Street in Lhasa. It was first built in 641 CE (Iron Ox Year of the Tibetan calendar, during the time of Songtsen Gampo of the Tubo dynasty), founded by Princess Wencheng. Ramoche Temple currently covers an area of 4,000 square meters and mainly enshrines the 8-year-old life-size statue of Sakyamuni, along with many other precious artifacts.]

Ramoche Temple faces east.

The streets near Ramoche Temple are full of vibrant local life.

Look at this—WOW, this year the pig flew up to the sky, but here the price brought it back to earth.

On the way back to the hotel, passing by Yaowang Mountain, I walked up to take a look—the Potala Palace in the sunset.

Walking on the street, I looked back. The palace that once symbolized supreme power stood quietly under the heavens...

Back at the hotel, I still felt a slight discomfort in my nose and was worried that a cold would break out. I immediately took out my medicine kit, alternately drank Siji Ganmao Tong, chai hu, and ginger tea with brown sugar, then directed hot water on my back until I sweated all over... Because we had already been at high altitude for nearly a week, I had adapted to Lhasa's altitude of over 3,000 meters, so I dared make this decision—if you fly or take the train directly to Lhasa and haven't adapted to high altitude, it's not recommended to bathe to avoid catching a chill.

Then, I cut two small pieces from a Zhuifeng plaster and stuck them on the Yingxiang acupoints beside my nose. I went to bed early—lying there, I worried: if the cold worsens tomorrow, what will happen to the rest of the trip?

Those warnings about colds—pulmonary edema... could it really happen?~! Somewhat dared not think further~!!

Not so near, not so far; some dangers might come too suddenly—I didn't know what tomorrow would bring...

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[To cooperate with the prevention and control efforts for the novel coronavirus pneumonia epidemic, and to avoid crowd gatherings causing cross-infection, the Potala Palace has been closed since January 27, 2020. The reopening time will be announced further. On March 1st, the Potala Palace opened its first live-streamed virtual tour.]

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To be continued~~

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