A Couple's 15-Day Self-Drive Tibet Adventure: G318 Sichuan-Tibet Highway In and G109 Qinghai-Tibet Highway Out, August 2021

In August 2021, my partner and I drove a Mazda 6 sedan from the southern route of the G318 Sichuan-Tibet Highway into Tibet and out via the G109 Qinghai-Tibet Highway. We passed through Yaan, Luding, Kangding, Xinduqiao, Yajiang, Litang, Daocheng Yading, Batang, Zuogong, Baxoi, Bomi, Nyingchi, Lhasa, Nagqu, Tanggulashan Town, and Golmud, completing the 15-day self-drive journey on the G318 in and G109 out.

Due to the pandemic, there were very few self-driving cars and cyclists on the G318. We didn't encounter the rainy season of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, so there were no landslides or mudslides. Overall, road conditions were good, with almost no traffic jams. A few sections, such as Haitonggou, Jueba Mountain, and Bomi on the G318, were under construction; some parts had poor road conditions, making it very difficult for sedans and easy to scrape the undercarriage. The entire G109 Qinghai-Tibet Highway is above 4,000 meters in altitude, with many large trucks, long stretches through uninhabited areas, and some poor road sections. Sedans had difficulty on those parts; my speed was around 40-50 km/h, and if not careful, the chassis would bottom out. Both the G318 and G109 traverse high mountains and deep valleys at high altitudes, with many curves, narrow roads, and frequent uphills and downhills. Driving demands great caution; you must overcome physical fatigue from long-distance driving and possible altitude sickness. When meeting oncoming vehicles, slow down, and never overtake on curves or slopes with limited visibility. On long trips, develop the habit of checking your vehicle's condition regularly, especially the tires.

We had read online guides for self-driving on the Sichuan-Tibet and Qinghai-Tibet highways and planned an itinerary, but due to the pandemic we didn't follow it strictly. Essentially, we arranged our daily journey according to local pandemic prevention requirements. Most places required a negative nucleic acid test report within 72 hours, while Lhasa and some areas required one within 48 hours. Some hospitals in Tibet only provided paper test results, not electronic ones. We usually arrived at the hospital before 5 p.m. to get tested, collecting the paper report the next morning. The paper report precisely showed the test date and time, making it convenient for checkpoint staff to verify if it was still valid. We took tests in Daocheng County, Zuogong County, Baxoi County, Lhasa, and Golmud.

Day 1: Hanzhong to Yaan County. We drove 9 hours on expressways and the G318. (Stayed in Yaan County, altitude 1,500 m) From Hanzhong to Yaan, we passed through the Qinling Mountains, with many tunnels on the expressway. Yaan Covered Bridge, beneath which flows the Qingyi River. Near the bridge, the Huoxiang Fish Restaurant served delicious huoxiang fish.

Day 2: Yaan County to Yajiang County. We passed through Luding, Kangding, Zheduo Mountain, and Xinduqiao, driving 10 hours on the G318. (Stayed in Yajiang County, altitude 2,500 m) Entrance to the Luding Bridge scenic area. The midway observation deck on Zheduo Mountain (after paying a fee, you can get hot water and use the toilet). Overlooking Zheduo Mountain: From the white pagoda near the parking lot, climb a short slope and enjoy panoramic views all around. This was the first mountain over 4,000 meters on our way into Tibet, a chance to acclimatize to the plateau climate. The parking lot at the summit of Zheduo Mountain.

Day 3: Yajiang County to Litang County. We passed the "18 Bends of the Heavenly Road," Jianziwan Mountain, and Kazila Mountain, driving 7 hours on the G318. (Stayed in Litang County, altitude 3,900 m) Originally we planned to stay in Batang County. Since Yajiang didn't require a nucleic acid test, and we had checked online that Batang also didn't require one, assuming both counties in Sichuan, we planned to get tested in Batang. At around 3 p.m., we arrived at the Batang checkpoint, where staff said entry was prohibited without a test report. We had to turn back to Litang, like many other cars. In Litang, tests were only done in the morning, not in the afternoon, and driving to another city for a test was too far and time-consuming. To continue the journey, we had no choice but to stay in Litang at 3,900 m. That night, I suffered altitude sickness: headache, dizziness, nausea, rapid breathing—very uncomfortable. Fortunately, drinking hot water and porridge, taking some medicine, and adding warm clothing helped me pull through slowly. By the next day, the symptoms were mostly gone. We had brought a 10-liter oxygen tank (lent by a friend who had been to Tibet, fearing altitude sickness) and bought four small portable oxygen canisters. I persisted without using oxygen, and later on the trip I never had altitude sickness again, nor did I use oxygen. Jianziwan Mountain observation deck. Xiongzongka observation deck. Nimagong Holy Mountain observation deck. Kazila Mountain observation deck. Distant view from Kazila Mountain observation deck. A lone cyclist. The West Gate of Litang County.

Day 4: Litang County to Daocheng Yading Scenic Area. We passed Daocheng County Town, Daocheng White Pagoda, and Tuer Mountain, driving 6 hours on the G227. (Stayed in Shangri-La Town, altitude 2,900 m) Since I had altitude sickness the previous night in Litang at 3,900 m, but my partner didn't, we decided to go to Daocheng Yading, which is lower, to acclimatize. The scenic area also didn't require a test report. We arrived at Shangri-La Town in Daocheng County around noon. After lunch and arranging accommodation, we drove about 20 minutes to the Yading Scenic Area. The ticket was valid for two days. In the afternoon, we took the short route, visiting Xiannairi, Pearl Lake (Zhuomalacuo), and Chonggu Temple. In the evening, Shangri-La Town was bustling with restaurants, shops, pharmacies, and hotels—everything you need for supplies and rest. Tuer Mountain observation deck. The entrance to Yading Scenic Area. From here, a shuttle bus takes over an hour to reach the core scenic area. Xiannairi Sacred Mountain and Pearl Lake (Zhuomalacuo).

Day 5: Daocheng Yading Scenic Area. We visited Luorong Pasture, Xiannairi, Jambeyang, Shanor Dorgje, Five-Color Lake, and Milk Lake, spending 11 hours. (Stayed in Shangri-La Town, altitude 2,900 m) Today we continued with the long route in Yading. In the morning, we took the shuttle bus from the entrance for over an hour into the scenic area, walked a while to Chonggu Pasture beneath Chonggu Temple, then took an electric cart for an hour to Luorong Pasture. From there, we could ride a horse or walk 3 km uphill; horse riding cost 500 yuan and was one-way only (no return). Then we climbed another 2 km or so to Milk Lake and Five-Color Lake at around 4,700 m. This final 2 km climb above 4,200 m tested everyone's physical strength and willpower. The 5 km return journey also had to be walked, and only after completing this 10 km stretch could you truly understand the saying "eyes in heaven, body in hell." After entering the scenic area gate, the shuttle bus made a short stop at a parking area where visitors could gaze at Xiannairi from afar and overlook the entire Yading Village. The bus has several stops like Yading Village to pick up and drop off tourists staying there. Chonggu Pasture. In the distance is Jambeyang Sacred Mountain; from here, the electric cart to Luorong Pasture takes an hour. (Be sure to buy a round-trip ticket for the electric cart; walking is too far.) Chonggu Pasture. Jambeyang Sacred Mountain in the distance. Luorong Pasture. The lower-left corner is the electric cart boarding point; in the distance is Xiannairi Sacred Mountain. A warm reminder sign in the scenic area. Distant view of Jambeyang Sacred Mountain. Another view of Jambeyang Sacred Mountain. Horses resting in the afternoon. Visitors heading to Milk Lake and Five-Color Lake, enduring both physical and mental tests at over 4,200 m.

Day 6: Daocheng Yading Scenic Area to Batang County. We passed Litang County, Haizi Mountain observation deck, and Sister Lakes, driving 12 hours on the G318. (Stayed in Batang County, altitude 2,700 m) In the morning, we went to Daocheng County Hospital for a nucleic acid test. They said results would be out after 6 p.m., available in both paper and electronic versions. Since we could check online, we didn't wait for the paper result and continued to Batang County. The road from Litang to Batang was excellent, with beautiful scenery on both sides, but there were many speed checkpoints using average speed measurement, so be careful to control your speed. Lots of yaks along the way. On the road to Batang. Distant view of Sister Lakes from Haizi Mountain observation deck.

Day 7: Batang County to Zuogong County. We crossed Zongla Mountain, Lawu Mountain, Jueba Mountain, and Dongda Mountain, driving 9 hours on the G318. (Stayed in Zuogong, altitude 3,759 m) All day we traversed high mountains and deep gorges—long and tiring. Near the Jinsha River Bridge outside Batang, a section was under construction, hard for sedans to pass. Haitonggou was still being repaired, with long stretches of gravel road, though overall conditions were good and traffic light. The Jueba Mountain section was extremely precipitous; we drove high on the mountainside with an invisible abyss below, many hairpin turns without guardrails, narrow road making oncoming traffic tricky, very few and rudimentary parking areas, and some construction parts that were treacherous. However, we saw many tunnels being built, which should make this stretch much safer in the future. Heading from Batang toward Markam, with the Jinsha River Bridge ahead; this road section was poor. Passing through the Markam checkpoint into Tibet. Dongda Mountain observation platform. A self-driving tractor traveler heading into Tibet.

Day 8: Zuogong County to Baxoi County. We passed Bangda Town, Yela Mountain, the 72 Turns of the Nu River, and the 99 Turns of Yela Mountain, driving 7 hours on the G318. (Stayed in Baxoi, altitude 3,260 m) We went through mountains, grasslands, and rivers—beautiful scenery all the way. The 72 Turns of the Nu River connect to the 99 Turns of Yela Mountain, with countless twists and turns. Some road sections were severely damaged, making it hard for sedans. Shopping and dining in Baxoi County were very convenient. Yela Mountain observation platform. Another view at the platform. Many yaks and sheep on the grasslands along the way. Distant view of the 72 Turns of the Nu River. The hospital in Baxoi County.

Day 9: Baxoi County to Nyingchi City. We passed Ranwu Lake, Bomi, Tongmai, Lulang, and Sejila Mountain, driving 12 hours on the G318. (Stayed in Nyingchi City, altitude 2,900 m) In August, Ranwu Lake was muddy yellow, somewhat turbid, not the emerald green often seen online—still a different kind of beauty. Learning that the road from Lulang to Nyingchi would be closed for a day, we decided to skip stops in Bomi and Lulang to avoid delays. We crossed Sejila Mountain overnight and reached Nyingchi in the evening. Perhaps everyone had the same idea, as the road suddenly became crowded with heavy traffic. Several construction-affected poor sections caused brief jams, giving us a taste of G318 traffic jams. The superiority of SUVs was evident; driving a sedan on rough roads was very difficult. After a long, starry-night rush with many hazards, it was truly challenging and a bit frightening. I told myself: on future long trips, never drive at night. Anjula Mountain pass. Self-driving tractor traveler. Ranwu Lake self-drive camp. Another view of the camp.

Day 10: Nyingchi City to Lhasa City. We passed through the Mira Mountain Tunnel, driving 7 hours on the G318 and the Linla Highway. (Stayed in Lhasa, altitude 3,650 m) We originally wanted to enter Lhasa via Mira Mountain Pass at 5,013 m on the G318. We set out from Nyingchi on the Linla Highway, exited at Gongbujiangda Town onto the G318 toward Mira Mountain Pass. It was drizzling when we left Nyingchi, and along the G318 the weather alternated between sun and rain. As we neared the pass, dark clouds suddenly gathered, and hail the size of rice grains started falling, with visibility under 30 meters. For safety, we decided to descend slowly and take the Linla Highway. Later, we passed through the Mira Mountain Tunnel on that highway. Missing the pass was a pity, but after the tunnel the weather cleared gradually, and by the time we reached Lhasa it was sunny and cloudless—the plateau's weather is truly changeable. The Lhasa checkpoint on the Linla Highway. Passing through the checkpoint into Lhasa. The hospital in Lhasa.

Day 11: Lhasa to Yamdrok Lake. We drove a round trip of 8 hours on the G349. (Stayed in Lhasa, altitude 3,650 m) Yamdrok Lake is in Shannan City. Getting there requires crossing high mountains with many curves and heavy traffic, so drive carefully. To the right after the Shannan checkpoint, there's a ticket office for the scenic area—60 yuan per person (this can be avoided; later at several viewing platforms, no one checked tickets). You can skip it and drive straight to the lake. The Yajiang River Valley viewing platform. This is the observation deck inside the scenic area, requiring a ticket. The view from inside the scenic area, ticket required. Yamdrok Lake and snow mountains ahead; the road leads to Langkazi County. This parking area doesn't require a ticket; you can go down to the lakeshore for photos.

Day 12: Lhasa city tour. We visited the Potala Palace, Jokhang Temple, and Barkhor Street. (Stayed in Lhasa, altitude 3,650 m) Passed through the first gate of the Potala Palace. Tickets booked online were exchanged for paper tickets at the ticket office. There were multiple ticket offices inside where you could get paper tickets. Distant view of the Potala Palace. The observation deck at Yaowang Mountain. Celebrating the 100th anniversary of the Communist Party of China and the 70th anniversary of Tibet's peaceful liberation. Celebrating the 100th anniversary of the Communist Party of China and the 70th anniversary of Tibet's peaceful liberation. Celebrating the 100th anniversary of the Communist Party of China and the 70th anniversary of Tibet's peaceful liberation. Celebrating the 100th anniversary of the Communist Party of China and the 70th anniversary of Tibet's peaceful liberation. Distant view of the Potala Palace. Chongsaikang pedestrian overpass. Tourists on Barkhor Street. Tourists on Barkhor Street.

Day 13: Lhasa to Nagqu City. We passed Nagenla Pass and Namtso Lake, driving 11 hours on the G318 and G109. (Stayed in Nagqu, altitude 4,450 m) The entrance of Namtso Park; buy tickets beside it, then drive over an hour to the scenic area parking lot. Welcoming Rock (also known as Couple's Rock).

Day 14: Nagqu City to Tanggulashan Town. We passed Amdo County and Tanggula Pass, driving 10 hours on the G109. (Stayed in Tanggulashan Town, altitude 4,543 m) Tanggula Pass monument. A souvenir at Tanggula Pass.

Day 15: Tanggulashan Town to Golmud. We passed the Yangtze River Environmental Protection Monument, Wudaoliang Protection Station, Hoh Xil Tibetan Antelope Viewing Platform, and Kunlun Pass, driving 8 hours on the G109. (Stayed in Golmud, altitude 2,780 m) Tibetan antelopes visible from the roadside. A service area on the G109 (the "Highest Maintenance Squad in the World"). Hoh Xil uninhabited area. Sonam Dargye Protection Station. Kunlun Mountain Geopark. The boundary between Tibet and Qinghai highways.

Starting from Yaan, Sichuan in early August on the G318 into Tibet, the 15-day journey on the Sichuan-Tibet and Qinghai-Tibet highways felt a bit rushed. We were on the move every day, driving about 8 hours daily. Fortunately, the scenery was all along the way; we stopped to take photos, checked in at landmarks, and passed each day in a stop-and-go rhythm, leaving many wonderful memories. Our trip went smoothly overall, with fine weather, light traffic, few people, and very convenient accommodation, food, and shopping. For us, this journey was unique and unforgettable. (Optimized for mobile viewing)