Riding a Motorcycle to Tibet at 84: Mud-Splattered and Falling into Ditches
"Is this the highest mountain on this road? Is such a modest altitude the highest?" An 84-year-old lady remarked with a touch of disappointment at the Dongda Mountain Pass, standing at an elevation of 5,130 meters.
Age has gradually become an obstacle to self-discovery. Want to buy some nice clothes? Oh, forget it, you're too old. Want to go out and travel more? No, what’s the point at your age. Want to chase a dream? Forget it, you're too old. In short, this all-purpose remark can quash any idea you have. It even ranks with "Since we're already here" and "It's the holiday season" as one of the "great three universal comfort phrases."
What does 84 look like in our minds? Walking shakily, needing support? A head of silvery hair etched with years? Or just lying in bed, reminiscing about a life long past? People are quick to label every age: you should get married in your 20s, your kids should be in school by your 30s, you should be holding grandchildren in your 50s, and by your 70s or 80s, you're expected to live the life your family arranges for you—your own wishes are no longer important.
An elderly woman from Leshan, Sichuan, seemed unwilling to live such a conventional life. One day, her son asked her where she most wanted to go. At 84, the old lady blurted out without hesitation: Tibet. Her son, Song Jianhui, 54 at the time, enjoyed outdoor activities and was nicknamed "Uncle Tire" by some friends. He often took his mother out on motorcycle rides. But he never imagined his mother's dream was the seemingly distant Tibet. For young people, Tibet might not be a huge challenge, but for an 84-year-old mother, he was understandably anxious. After repeated confirmation and her firm desire to realize the Tibet trip, they prepared and, on a motorcycle, set off! Naturally, Song Jianhui’s biggest worry was his mother's health. They agreed that at the slightest sign of discomfort, they would turn back immediately.
They rode along National Highway 318, passing through Kangding, Yajiang, Mangkang, Bomi... all the way to Lhasa. Though he constantly worried his mother might suffer from altitude sickness, it turned out to be unnecessary—the elderly lady was brimming with energy along the way, filled with nothing but excitement. Even at the Dongda Mountain Pass, the highest point on the Sichuan-Tibet line, she had no trouble at all and even felt the altitude was far from extreme.
Along the way, the mother and son met many others traveling to Tibet. Upon hearing that the mother was 84, everyone gave her a thumbs-up, and many posed for photos with her. In the end, they took 8 days, riding over 2,000 kilometers, and arrived safely in Lhasa. They visited the Potala Palace and, after spending two days in the city, chose to return via the northern route of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway.
Some sections of the northern Sichuan-Tibet route were a bit rough. On rainy days, passing trucks would splatter them with mud, but the old lady remained extremely upbeat, quickly asking her son to snap photos to record the moment. Once, on a rainy day, as she was helping her son adjust his hat from behind, she accidentally covered his eyes. The motorcycle swerved and slid into a ditch. Fortunately, the bike didn't fall over, and neither of them got hurt.
In total, the round trip took 17 days, and the mother and son returned safely to their home in Leshan.
Song Jianhui asked his mother: Where would she like to go next?
"Northeast China, let's go by motorcycle again," the 84-year-old mother replied with a smile.
Age has never been a shackle holding them back. After retiring from the Chinese PLA General Hospital, Liu Chenggui and Liu Xinlian began planning to realize their dream of traveling across China. They posed for photos at countless mountains and rivers, but one place was missing from their collection: the beautiful Tibet in their hearts.
If they didn't go soon, they might never have the chance... The couple spent two or three years preparing for the Tibet trip. They first traveled to the Qilian Mountains and the Gannan Tibetan Area at around 3,000 meters above sea level, visiting places like Xiahe, Zhagana, Sangke Grassland, and Langmu Temple.
After several high-altitude adaptation trips and a full checkup of their lungs, heart, and cardiovascular system, they set off for Tibet. That year, Liu Chenggui was 84 and Liu Xinlian was 83.
Over the years of organizing trips to Tibetan areas, people have often asked Junjun: "I’m XX years old, can I go to Tibet? My mother/father is XX, can they go?" The answer doesn't actually depend on me, but on the traveler's own condition. Generally, we don't recommend people with serious cardiovascular or cerebrovascular diseases go to high-altitude areas, and those with a cold should wait until they fully recover before setting off.
Saying that elderly people can't go to Tibet isn't absolute. As long as they are in good health, have the necessary items ready, or are accompanied by family, it shouldn’t be much of a problem.
Of course, the top priority for any trip is safety, no matter your age. I once read a news story: Old Liu had high blood pressure, so his wife didn't agree to him, at 53, driving alone to Tibet. But determined Old Liu secretly modified his car, bought gear, and one early morning, under the pretext of going for a drive, he set off alone on National Highway 318.
Luckily, 25 days later, Old Liu returned home safely. It’s good that Old Liu pursued his dream, but starting out on a risky solo adventure and making his family worry is not a wise choice.
