[Tibet Chapter] A 50s-Born Dream Trip: Self-Driving 10,000 Kilometers to Tibet

Tibet, shrouded in mystery, leads many to describe traveling there as incredibly treacherous and unattainable. I believe: going to Tibet is simply an ordinary journey, just a bit farther.

Tibet — how many people yearn for that place? If you never visit Tibet in your life, it feels incomplete. As for how a person born in the 1950s like me should go — with a tour group, backpacking, or self-driving? After a solo drive back from Dunhuang, an idea kept lingering in my mind: a self-drive road trip to Tibet. After much deliberation, I finally chose to drive myself. This would be my sixth long-distance self-drive journey and a rather challenging one: entering via the Sichuan–Tibet Highway and exiting via the Qinghai–Tibet Highway. Before this, my longest solo drive had been 8,200 kilometers to Inner Mongolia; this time the challenge was even greater — over 10,000 kilometers.

My travel companion was a friend who couldn't drive, and I was behind the wheel of a Soueast V5, a sedan with a 1.5L engine and just 14 centimeters of ground clearance. A car this small and low-slung would be put to the test on the Sichuan–Tibet route. Come on, my car!

Then I plunged into planning the route, writing the itinerary, setting a departure date, and preparing supplies. Knowing autumn is Tibet's most beautiful season, we chose to leave Shanghai on August 30, following National Highway G318, China's Scenic Highway, into Tibet to Lhasa, and returning via the G109 Sky Road back to Shanghai.

G318 has long been regarded as China's most beautiful self-drive route, especially the 2,140-kilometer stretch from Chengdu to Lhasa on the Sichuan–Tibet Highway. Not driving it in person would be a shame. The meaning of travel is to see landscapes you've never seen, whether natural or cultural, and to encounter people and things you've never met.

Designed itinerary: Shanghai – Wuhan – Guang'an – Langzhong – Anren – Ya'an – Luding – Dadu River Canyon – Xinduqiao – Tagong Grassland – Litang – Daocheng – Yading – Batang – Mangkang – Baxoi – Ranwu Lake – Bomi – Lulang – Bayi Town – Lhasa – Yamdrok Yumtso Lake – Karola Glacier – Gyantse – Namtso Lake – Nagqu – Golmud – Xining – Xi'an – Shanghai

D1 Shanghai – 850 km – Wuhan

Stayed at Hanting Hotel Wuhan East Lake branch, standard room 228 yuan. Wuhan elevation 100 m.

Departed at 5:00 am, drove for eleven hours, arrived in Wuhan at 16:00, all expressway.

Having just drunk Yangtze River water, we now eat Wuchang fish; gazing from Yellow Crane Tower at Tortoise and Snake Hills, it feels like strolling in a leisure garden...

D2 Wuhan – 870 km – Guang'an

Stayed at 7 Days Inn Guang'an Bus Station branch, standard room 177 yuan. Guang'an elevation 366 m.

Hit the road at 7:00 am, reached Guang'an, Deng Xiaoping's hometown, at 18:30.

D3 Guang'an – 190 km – Langzhong

Stayed at Dazhong Holiday Hotel, standard room 158 yuan. Langzhong elevation 464 m.

Sichuan gets its name from four great rivers: the Yangtze, Min, Tuo, and Fu.

Langzhong Ancient Town lies on the banks of the Jialing River in Nanchong, Sichuan. It is one of China's four best-preserved ancient towns, with over 2,300 years of history. The other three are Lijiang in Yunnan, Pingyao in Shanxi, and Shexian in Anhui. Since ancient times, Langzhong has been a strategic military town of the Ba and Shu kingdoms. The residential architecture inside the old town features a distinctive chessboard layout that blends northern and southern building styles, making it a classic example of “harmony between man and nature.”

The tallest building in the old town is Huaguang Tower, also known as South Tower or Zhenjiang Tower. Originally built in the Tang Dynasty, the present tower was reconstructed in the sixth year of the Tongzhi reign of the Qing Dynasty (1867) and is an iconic symbol of Langzhong. Climbing to the top offers a panoramic view of the town, with its picturesque city walls and the Jialing River landscape. Water embraces the city on three sides, while hills seal in the misty clouds...

(My companion resting in a corner of Huaguang Tower)

D4 Langzhong – 340 km – Anren Ancient Town – 100 km – Ya'an

Stayed at Ya'an Shangji Anya Hotel, standard room 189 yuan. Ya'an elevation 641 m.

Departed at 8:00 am for Anren Ancient Town, stuck in traffic on the Chengdu Ring Expressway for nearly two hours. Arrived at the town around 13:00, spent over two hours exploring, and reached the Ya'an hotel at 17:30.

Anren, named with the idea “the benevolent find peace,” was founded in the Tang Dynasty. The surviving old-style streets and houses date from the late Qing and early Republican periods. Among them are 27 former mansions like Liu's Manor and Liu Xiang's residence, as well as three old streets – Hongxing, Shuren, and Yumin – plus the Western-style villa, Anren Middle School, and the clock tower.

During the Republican era, the Liu family's heyday produced a mix of Chinese and Western architecture, dignified and elegant, giving Anren its unique architectural character and representing the cultural essence of western Sichuan building...

Ya'an has three prized specialties: Ya rain, Ya girls, and Ya fish. “Ya rain” refers to the year-round drizzle, as Ya'an is the rainiest place in Sichuan. “Ya fish” is a species unique to the Qingyi River: its body is dark and slender, its flesh tender and tasty. Legend says that when Nüwa mended the sky, she dropped her sword into the river, which turned into the fish, so every Ya fish has a bone resembling a tiny sword in its head. As for Ya girls...

The hotel was right beside the Qingyi River, and within a hundred meters we reached the bank. In the evening, the sky looked gloomy, but we still took a walk along the river and admired the covered bridge and Rainbow Bridge from a distance.

Having a Ya fish hotpot is a must in Ya'an. The fish was 145 yuan per jin, so we ordered a relatively small one, and the bill came to 260 yuan.

(Ya'an Ya fish and its sword-shaped bone)

D5 Ya'an – 140 km – Luding – 130 km – Xinduqiao

Stayed at Suobo Tibetan Village Inn, standard room 120 yuan. Xinduqiao elevation 3,450 m.

True to its reputation as the Rain City, Ya'an had been raining since last night and it never stopped. Today we officially set foot on the Sichuan–Tibet route, the real G318 Scenic Highway. Leaving the city, it kept raining. The two-way G318 was slippery but traffic was light. We soon reached Tianquan County, where the dreaded bad road finally appeared. Poor roadbed, heavy trucks, and harsh climate mean roadwork is endless, and accidents and traffic jams are common.

A traffic jam in progress...

Weather on the plateau shifts unpredictably. After crossing the Erlang Mountain Tunnel, the sky turned crystal clear, with a hint of the Tibetan region. The altitude soared, and our airtight snack bags puffed up. Beyond Erlang Mountain, you can gaze at the Dadu River in the distance, and traditional Tibetan clothing became more frequent. The drive to Luding traced the Dadu River canyon, where you can admire its sheer cliffs and geo-wonders.

(Erlang Mountain Tunnel and cyclists)

Luding Bridge was first built in the 44th year of Emperor Kangxi’s reign (1705). It is an iron-chain suspension bridge supported by stone abutments and thirteen horizontal iron chains, connected by 12,164 iron links and weighing about 21 tons. The bridge is 101.67 meters long and 3 meters wide. On the east end stands a stele inscribed by Emperor Kangxi himself chronicling the bridge’s construction.

The cold iron chains spanning the Dadu...

Full of emotion on Luding Bridge

Although the road from Ya'an to Xinduqiao is paved, the surface is bumpy and rough. Passing through Kangding, the city of love songs, we were driving at altitudes above 3,000 meters the whole time. I didn't feel any loss of power—climbing hills was a breeze in third gear.

I'd already been driving on G318 for days, yet every time I saw a road sign pointing “Toward Tibet,” I couldn't help feeling excited. We were actually heading to Tibet! That mysterious feeling kept pulling at my heartstrings.

Beyond Kangding town, we had to cross the Zheduo Mountain Pass (elevation 4,292 m). Zheduo's highest peak is 4,900 meters, and the pass is known as the “First Gateway to Kham” on the Sichuan–Tibet route. The mountain marks the boundary between Han and Tibetan cultures; once over it, you enter the Kham Tibetan area. “Zheduo” means “winding” in Tibetan, and the mountain road twists and turns like the Chinese character for “many” (多), curve after curve. An old saying goes: “Erlang Mountain frightens people to death, Zheduo Mountain twists them to death.” At the pass, wind and rain lashed us with poor visibility, so I snapped a few random photos and moved on. A 41-kilometer downhill run brought us to Xinduqiao.

Today's destination was Xinduqiao, famed as a “photographer’s paradise,” and the scenery gradually showed its Tibetan character, as did the dwellings.

This is an idyllic, poetic haven. The best times for photography are dusk and early morning. Magical light, boundless grasslands, a winding stream, golden poplars, rolling hills, scattered Tibetan houses, cattle and sheep grazing peacefully...

We stayed at Suobo Tibetan Village Inn, run by a Tibetan girl named Lamu. Dinner was a Tibetan dish called “Beef Under a Blanket,” accompanied by butter tea and a taste of highland barley wine — we were living the real Tibetan life. After a satisfying meal, a quick wash, and with the electric blanket warming the bed, it felt wonderfully cozy. A video chat and a glass of milk before sleep — relaxed and dreaming sweetly.

D6 Xinduqiao – 360 km – Daocheng

Stayed at Daocheng Yading Nana Youth Hostel, standard room 130 yuan. Daocheng elevation 3,750 m.

Today we crossed five mountain passes over 4,000 meters. Gao'ersi Mountain now has a tunnel, so we bypassed the pass. After crossing the Yalong River gorge at Yajiang, we climbed the “Eighteen Bends of the Sky Road,” winding through the scissor-like Jianziwan Mountain until finally reaching Jianziwan Pass (4,659 m) — a new altitude record. The higher we went, the more misty clouds enveloped the mountains, so we drove amid clouds and fog. Some slopes had safety nets against landslides, but many nets were already battered by fallen rocks — best not to linger. Despite the twists, the road surface was excellent all the way up to Kazila Mountain (4,718 m). Descending from the pass, the road was unbelievably smooth; the only thing to do was control your speed — coast in gear, because excessive braking could be dangerous.

Heading for the last pure land on the blue planet...

We crossed Tu'er Mountain (4,696 m) and Haizi Mountain (4,602 m). The drive from Litang to Daocheng offered lovely views, with giant fluffy clouds even bigger than cotton candy. Vegetation wasn't dense; we saw some shallows. The winding mountain roads kept our speed low, and in some construction zones dust still flew. Whenever we encountered Tibetan herders driving yaks, we had to slow down carefully, or risk trouble.

In a single day, we crossed several high passes, all above 4,500 meters. Snow-capped peaks seemed within arm's reach, white snow right beneath our feet. The sky was crystal clear, clouds soft as cotton wool, sunlight dazzling, and then a sudden hailstorm — the weather changed as swiftly as the scenery. Countless times I was thrilled, moved to the core. G318 truly is a stunning scenic highway.

About 17 kilometers past Sangdui village, we saw Sangdui Red Grassland, backed by a row of green poplars. They say only during a brief dozen or so autumn days do you get red water grass, yellow poplars, blue sky, and white clouds, forming a vibrant landscape painting. Maybe we came at the wrong time or the weather wasn't right, but we saw only a small patch of red grass.

In the evening we went to Banghe Township to view the poplar woods, and a bit farther to Sela, to enjoy the famous Banghe sunset — the scenery along the way was beautiful.

A note on Tibetan butter tea: locals told me that authentic butter tea only exists at high altitudes. It's made by mixing butter with brewed tea, slightly salty and not unpleasant, and very effective against altitude sickness. The butter is churned from yak milk; the leftover curds, called milk cakes or cheese, are slightly sour — I didn't take to it.

D7 Daocheng – 120 km – Yading – 120 km – Daocheng

Stayed at Daocheng Yading Nana Youth Hostel, standard room 130 yuan. Daocheng elevation 3,750 m.

Originally we planned to spend a night in Yading Village, but switched to a day trip and returned to Daocheng the same day. We skipped Milk Lake and Five-Color Lake, so we had ample time. The main reason: private cars can only go as far as Riwa Township (Shangri-La Town); the 40 kilometers into Yading Village must be covered by scenic shuttle bus, which brings a lot of inconveniences, and the accommodation in Yading Village isn’t great.

Yading lies in Ganzi County, Sichuan, bordering Tibet and Yunnan, with an average altitude above 3,000 meters. Its stunning snowy peaks, meadows, alpine lakes, pastures, and rural scenery are profoundly enchanting — it is the last pure land on the blue planet.

In autumn, Yading is splashed with intense colors. You can admire cloud-wreathed snow mountains and take in the golden-dyed landscapes under the blue sky. The weather is fickle, probably due to the high altitude. At Luorong Pasture (4,150 m), the snow peaks stayed hidden in clouds, with occasional drizzles; Mount Jampelyang never revealed its face.

Chonggu Monastery, a must-pass for viewing the three sacred mountains, has mesmerizing sunset views. In front of the monastery is a small grassland — Chonggu Meadow.

The monastery at the foot of Mount Xiannairi is a sight not to miss. Linger for a while, and the low, rhythmic chanting lends the quiet monastery a mysterious air...

Yading entrance ticket: 150 yuan, 80 yuan for those over 60. Round-trip scenic bus: 120 yuan. Trams from Chonggu Monastery to Luorong Pasture round-trip: 80 yuan. Horse ride from Luorong Pasture to Milk Lake: 300 yuan. Five-Color Lake requires hiking up.

D8 Daocheng – 420 km – Mangkang

Stayed at Mangkang Huatai Business Hotel, standard room 200 yuan. Mangkang elevation 3,875 m.

We set off at 7:00 am. The S217 Liya Provincial Road from Daocheng to Litang was superb. Along the way we saw vehicles of all shapes and sizes. As long as you drive slowly, boldly, and with some skill, no vehicle can’t handle the G318. I saw a QQ and a MINI heading into Tibet, so really, what car you drive doesn't matter.

I deeply admired the cyclists. Seeing them pedal along the winding, undulating highway, sometimes a lone rider, or lying exhausted on the roadside, I felt there was a spirit driving them, overcoming things we can't fully understand.

Near the high city of Litang, we met a cyclist from Pingliang, Gansu, and took a photo together. He set out from Chengdu, planning to reach Lhasa in 23 days, covering the 2,140 kilometers of the Sichuan–Tibet route — this was his sixth day. Bravo to him and all cyclists! Thumbs up!

Litang — the “High City of the World” (4,014 m), the world's highest county town, with oxygen only 48% of that on the plains.

(Litang West Gate under repair)

Litang means “flat, mirror-like grassland” in Tibetan. The Maoya Grassland stretches over 4,000 meters but doesn't feel plateau-like; endless meadows line the road. In springtime, lush greenery would surely make the heart sing.

Now let me talk about altitude sickness: around 4,000 meters, most people feel short of breath, as if they can't inhale enough oxygen, so they pant. My personal experience is to do everything in slow motion on the plateau, keep warm, and drink some warm glucose water — these are effective remedies. As for taking Rhodiola or Gaoyuan An, they might help a bit, offering psychological comfort. The quickest relief is inhaling oxygen, which works instantly but can create dependency, so I don't recommend it. Amazingly, I had no altitude sickness at all, even near 5,000 meters. I showered every day, just like on the plains.

A jewel on the Sichuan–Tibet line — Sister Lakes

Batang — the county in western Sichuan nearest to Tibet

The boundary between Sichuan and Tibet — Jinsha River Bridge

After crossing the Jinsha River Bridge, we officially entered Tibet. We collected a speed-limit slip at the checkpoint. In the sparsely populated Tibetan land, installing speed cameras isn't practical, so they invented this low-tech but very effective method. It doesn't matter if you speed along the way, as long as you arrive at the next checkpoint on time. You can be late, but not early; arriving early means a fine or a penalty wait.

Our first speed-limit slip for entering Tibet

At 4 pm we crossed the Jinsha River Bridge into the Tibetan region's Zhubalong Township, 71 kilometers from Mangkang County, with a 2-hour time limit. This is where the bad road — and the nightmare — began. When collecting the slip, the traffic policeman said, “You’ll be lucky to reach Mangkang by 10 pm.” I thought that was impossible. The first 30 kilometers, though rough, went smoothly. At 17:40, a landslide trapped us in a nameless gorge with no cell signal. Drivers spontaneously tried to clear the blockage; this went on for over two hours. Darkness fell and rain started.

Landslides, cave-ins, broken bridges, falling rocks, darkness, strong wind, heavy rain — one side mountain, the other a cliff, while having to give way and pass other vehicles. A road just one car wide with deep ruts; my car had to straddle the raised middle part to climb, stalling many times and scraping the undercarriage repeatedly. Danger after danger was overcome until we finally reached Mangkang County at 11 pm. After those heart-stopping six and a half hours, my reflections were profound.

Honestly, if it had been daytime, I wouldn't have dared cross many of those sections. But in the pitch dark, not knowing the full truth, I just plowed through. From my heart, I am grateful to my car — it endured that hellish night and carried me out of the desperate situation. A sincere thank you!

D9 Mangkang – 360 km – Baxoi

Stayed at Baxoi Nujiang Cloud Hotel, standard room 300 yuan. Baxoi elevation 3,280 m.

After that ordeal, my mindset was perfectly adjusted. Even the roads inside Mangkang County were bad, and leaving town was another rough patch, but nothing like the previous evening. We crossed Lawu Mountain (4,376 m) and drove through the Lancang River Gorge, passing the Lancang River Bridge.

Crossing Jueba Mountain (3,911 m) and Dongda Mountain (5,008 m) were the day’s highlights — one treacherous, one high. Jueba is one of the infamous dangerous roads in the Hengduan Mountains. The 30-kilometer winding route with nearly 2,000 meters of descent makes it the hardest climb on the Sichuan–Tibet highway.

After clearing Jueba Mountain, the terrain gentled and the road straightened, with broader views. Soon we reached the second-highest mountain on G318 — Dongda Mountain. This peak is the most lingering mountain of the route, taking about two to three hours to cross. Dongda Pass (5,008 m) is the first on G318 above 5,000 meters. The wind at the pass was fierce and temperatures near freezing; staying outside the car for long was unbearable.

At Yela Mountain Pass (4,658 m), there’s a viewing platform for the “72 Turns of the Nu River,” also called the 99 Bends of Yela Mountain — China’s most spectacular devil’s road. The zigzagging switchbacks bridge the gulf between the Lancang and Nu Rivers, each turn sharp and steep, all U-shaped.

72 Turns of the Nu River

The plateau sky was exceptionally clear, so pure it felt infinitely sacred. Sunlight sprinkled on the clouds, gilding them with a magnificent golden edge — could these be the legendary auspicious clouds?

The car cruised between mountains on newly paved asphalt that was still dark and pristine, with blue skies and white clouds painting the scene. Bathing in such scenery, I felt all vanity fade away, wishing only to become one with this sacred nature.

(Military depot and the Nu River Bridge)

We arrived at Baxoi in the evening and checked into the Baxoi Nujiang Cloud Hotel. I highly recommend this newly built hotel — perhaps the most upscale in Baxoi: spotless and tidy, with a Chinese restaurant and hotpot restaurant on-site.

D10 Baxoi – 90 km – Ranwu Lake – 130 km – Bomi

Stayed at Bomi Hengtai Grand Hotel, standard room 150 yuan. Bomi elevation 2,725 m.

We often saw yaks or sheep strolling on the highway; you must stop and yield — never rush, because hitting one has serious consequences.

Ranwu Lake is a glacial barrier lake formed 200 years ago, covering 22 square kilometers, about 26 km long and 1–5 km wide, at an elevation of 3,850 m. It is the source of the Palong Zangbo River. Renowned for its blueness and stillness, the lake’s color changes with the seasons. It has three parts: upper, middle, and lower; the upper lake is most beautiful, then the middle, and the lower least so.

In my imagination, plateau lakes are like sapphires set in the highlands. But when I saw Ranwu Lake, reality was far from that. Perhaps our timing was wrong — the famed blue was absent, but the stillness remained.

Milestone 3888 on the Sichuan–Tibet highway

Our plan to visit Laigu Glacier or Midui Glacier was scrapped due to rain and bad roads. The stretch from Ranwu to Bomi is the most beautiful part of the Sichuan–Tibet Highway, with lush forests and babbling streams. The autumn tree-lined avenues made it hard to believe we were on the plateau. We entered the lovely town of Zhamu (Bomi County seat, 2,725 m), surrounded by snow mountains and forests, with fresh air — known as “Switzerland of Tibet.”

I was glad we skipped the glaciers; otherwise we’d have battled bad roads in the dark again. After passing Midui and entering Bomi territory, the nightmare washboard road returned: nearly 60–70 kilometers of corrugated dirt took almost four hours, and we frequently ran into traffic jams...

D11 Bomi – 240 km – Bayi Town

Stayed at Hanting Hotel Nyingchi Bus Station branch, standard room 219 yuan. Bayi Town elevation 2,930 m.

Leaving Bomi County, we hit rough roads immediately, stretching about 40 kilometers all the way to Guxiang, bumping along for over three hours before reaching Tongmai town.

The once-dreaded Tongmai–Pailong natural barrier no longer exists. The treacherous chasm has become a thoroughfare — we drove quickly through the Tongmai and Pailong sections.

The scenery at Lulang can only be described as “graceful.” The unique landscape of surrounding grasslands, forests, and snowy peaks doesn't resemble the rugged Tibetan beauty at all; it’s more like the gentle charm of Jiangnan mountain region, or even a bit like Switzerland, with the Alps-like snow mountains as a backdrop.

Leaving Lulang, we climbed Sejila Mountain (4,768 m) and were lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the majestic Namcha Barwa Peak (7,782 m) — China’s “Alps” in the distance.

The 60-plus kilometers of gravel washboard road from Lulang to Bayi Town were a real headache.

Arriving in Bayi Town at dusk, having stone-pot chicken was a must. Authentic stone-pot chicken: the pot is hand-carved from Motuo mica schist, the chicken is free-range Tibetan plateau bird, and the water is natural meltwater from snowy mountains, stewed slowly for hours with dangshen, palm ginseng, and matsutake mushrooms.

Every eatery in town offers stone-pot chicken; our innkeeper recommended this one. Walking in, we saw the pots simmering over the fire — wonderful.

We ordered a small pot (298 yuan), which was basically half a chicken, including all sides, condiments, and staples.

The highland barley rice wine was delicious, like fermented rice drink.

D12 Bayi Town – 410 km – Lhasa

Stayed at Lhasa Haihui Hotel, standard room 380 yuan. Lhasa elevation 3,650 m.

En route we crossed Mila Mountain Pass (5,013 m), the highest point on G318.

Then we followed the Lhasa River Valley westward and arrived in Lhasa on September 10 at 16:00. It took 12 days and 4,835 kilometers, through landscapes both perilous and gorgeous, to finally reach this pilgrimage destination. Against blue sky and white clouds, the red-and-white Potala Palace stood magnificent. When it rose before my eyes, my dream came true. Words cannot express my emotions in that moment; I couldn't hold back tears...

Driving the Sichuan–Tibet Highway, especially with a small-displacement, low-clearance car, is a test of will, physique, perseverance, courage, driving skills, and vehicle condition. Once again, I thank my car — we endured together, inseparable, and I must shout out for it!

(Waiting for a car wash...)

Lao Yu Fang Ju is a restaurant with a view of the Potala Palace. We had dinner there and were lucky enough to capture the sunset glow over the palace.

D13 Sightseeing in Lhasa

Stayed at Lhasa Haihui Hotel, standard room 380 yuan. Lhasa elevation 3,650 m.

Yaowang Mountain, to the right of the Potala Palace at 3,725 m, stands facing it. The viewing platform halfway up is the best spot to photograph the Potala Palace; if you wait until sunset, you can enjoy the palace’s night view.

Potala Palace (ticket 200 yuan). With a history of 1,300 years, this grand fortress-like architectural complex in typical Tibetan style is the world’s highest and most magnificent palace. The Potala extends the splendor of Tibetan culture and houses an incredible collection of cultural relics and art — a true world heritage.

Daylight in Lhasa is long! By 8 am the sun is already blazing, and at 9 pm the sky still isn't dark. From our hotel to Potala Square it took only a ten-minute walk.

(Devout worshippers prostrating themselves)

After visiting the Potala Palace, I realized: gold is worthless; gemstones are priceless!

Jokhang Temple (ticket 85 yuan) was first built in the 21st year of Tang Emperor Taizong’s reign by King Songtsen Gampo to commemorate Princess Bhrikuti’s arrival. It is the most glorious surviving architectural relic from the Tubo period and Tibet’s earliest timber-and-mud structure. Inside are nearly a kilometer of Tibetan murals depicting Princess Wencheng’s journey into Tibet and the temple’s construction, plus two Ming-dynasty embroidered Thangkas of guardian deities.

Every day before dawn, multitudes of Tibetan pilgrims perform full-length prostrations; they aim for 110,000 at this temple alone — a challenge for anyone.

Inside, outside the Shakyamuni Hall, there are eight wooden pillars — be sure to tap them; they ring like iron.

Barkhor Street is the circumambulation path around the Jokhang Temple, called the “Holy Road” by Tibetans. Countless locals walk clockwise around the temple daily.

The Guangming Gangqiong Sweet Teahouse by Jokhang Temple Square is a well-known teahouse, always packed with locals and tourists alike. The “sweet tea” is basically milk tea. Experiencing the tea-drinking process there is great fun. The hall is filled with long tables and benches, so you share tables. First, find a spot, then fetch a clean glass, set it on the table, and place some small change. Whenever your glass is empty, a server will refill it; it costs 80 jiao (about 8 mao) per cup. When you've had enough, just pocket your money.

(Guangming Gangqiong Sweet Teahouse)

In Lhasa, Tibetan and Sichuan restaurants abound, along with some northeastern Chinese eateries, and fast-food chain Dicos everywhere. The food in Lhasa is generally good, so you’ll never go hungry worrying about not adapting to Tibetan cuisine.

Makye Ame is a Western-style café with a Bohemian vibe, frequented by foreigners and hip young locals, a place for arty souls and expats to while away the time.

Lhasa is a clean little city without high-rises. There’s plenty of accommodation to choose from, and it's all quite clean.

Plans changed unexpectedly: my companion felt unwell from altitude sickness. To be safe, we canceled all subsequent itinerary and decided to return directly to Shanghai. We were only halfway through; I hadn’t yet truly savored Lhasa’s local life, and now I had to leave. It was a deep regret, but I’ll just use that as an excuse to come back to Tibet someday. Goodbye, Lhasa!

D14 Lhasa – 360 km – Nagqu

Stayed at Nagqu Scala Hotel, standard room 260 yuan. Nagqu elevation 4,500 m.

Many things in life need time to settle; too early you can’t see through them, too late you can’t bear to see them. On the return trip, we encountered pilgrims from Yushu, Qinghai. They were planning to take eight months to reach Lhasa by performing full prostrations the entire way. I’m grateful we met them at the right time, allowing us to witness and deeply feel such faith, belief, and perseverance!

The Qinghai–Tibet Highway runs across a plateau, with gentler slopes and no dramatic gorges or cliffs like the Sichuan–Tibet route, but its average elevation is over 4,000 meters, earning it the name “Road to Heaven.”

It has long, straight stretches of asphalt that look beautiful from a distance. But in reality, many sections seem flat until you’re right upon them and find dips and hidden potholes — you can’t speed much. So keep an eye on the car ahead, maintain distance, and control your speed.

After Damxung, we entered the boundless, rolling Qiangtang Grassland. Situated between the Tanggula and Nyainqêntanglha mountain ranges, above 4,500 meters, it’s a high-altitude cold grassland and one of China’s five largest pastures.

D15 Nagqu – 420 km – Tuotuohe – 420 km – Golmud – 810 km – Xining – 880 km – Xi'an – 850 km – Lu'an – 570 km – Shanghai

Tanggula Mountain forms the border between Tibet and Qinghai. When we climbed to Tanggula Pass (5,231 m), it was the moment to bid farewell to Tibet. The apprehension and longing for the unknown before departure had now become life experience and memories. Tibet’s blue sky, white clouds, snowy peaks, highland lakes, and grasslands have been captured in photos and etched in my mind...

(Snow and rain at Tanggula Pass)

Along the Qinghai–Tibet route through Hoh Xil, we saw a lot of wildlife: Tibetan antelopes, wild yaks, kiangs (wild asses)...

Not sure what animal? Probably Tibetan antelopes!

This journey to Tibet crossed over a dozen mountain passes above 4,000 meters and nearly ten major rivers, traversing China’s highest highway and most beautiful scenic road! All the way, the scenery was dazzling and unique — snowy mountains, glaciers, gorges, lakes, rivers, forests, meadows...

We were baptized by blazing sun, heavy rain, fierce wind, snow, and hail, experiencing all four seasons in a single day. The journey was arduous and treacherous, taking 21 days and covering 9,166 kilometers.

For me, this Tibet trip was just a travel experience, a journey slightly more difficult than usual. This travelogue will serve as my best keepsake and a bit of reference for friends about to hit the road.