Chasing Tsangyang Gyatso, Realizing the Dream on the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, A Pilgrimage

Appreciate the world with your own eyes

taste the world with your own taste buds

feel the world with your own skin

People ask me, where is fun in Tibet? I answer:

A chance encounter in Shangri-La,

a kiss seals love at Namtso,

a romantic rendezvous in Lhasa,

moonlit flowers in Nyingchi,

sweet nothings in Litang,

shifting affections in Kangding,

a reluctant breakup in Shannan,

to see through the vanity of the world go to Seda!

There's also a place called Daocheng Yading’s scenic area. It's said you should go there with your beloved to see the azure sky, white snow mountains, golden grasslands, and a fairy tale of autumn. So, I brought my beloved self along.

P.S. (This travelogue has lots of photos, beautiful scenery, and many beautiful girls!!! Over 300 photos, plus some videos. It’s best to read in sections. Thanks for watching.)

D1: Chengdu—Shimian—Hailuogou

D2: Hailuogou—Kangding—Xinduqiao

D3: Xinduqiao—Litang—Daocheng—Shangri-La Town

D4: Yading day tour

D5: Shangri-La Town—Litang—Batang—Mangkang

D6: Mangkang—Zuogong—Basu

D7: Basu—Ranwu—Midui Glacier—Bomi

D8: Bomi—Lulang—Nyingchi

D9: Nyingchi—Mila Mountain—Lhasa

D10: Lhasa—Yamdrok Yumtso—Lhasa

D11: Lhasa day tour

(end of itinerary)

Yesterday, due to a flight delay, I arrived in Chengdu too late. I came all the way to Chengdu and didn’t even get to eat hotpot! It was unbearable!!! I heard from Brother Shen that today’s drive is short, we could easily leave at noon!! Hehehe! So, we made up for it today before heading off!

The Lianglukou Old Hotpot Yulin Branch tastes fantastic! I heard it's an old shop that’s been open for decades, a whole generation grew up eating this hotpot and falling asleep to its aroma.

Having hotpot as lunch, after we were full and satisfied, we left the city onto the Chengya Expressway, then followed the Yaxi Expressway to Shimian County.

Shimian County is located at the junction of Ya'an, Liangshan, and Garze, an important passage from the interior to Yunnan and Tibet, known as the 'Ethnic Corridor'.

In 2014, it was awarded the title 'Hometown of Giant Panda Reintroduction in China' by the China Wildlife Conservation Association.

It’s also the hometown of Lai Ning, the young firefighting hero.

In the evening we arrived at Moxi Town, had dinner, and strolled around the ancient street.

The night view of the old town had few tourists, which reminded me of Lijiang—quite a contrast.

The Moxi Conference was held here, a very important meeting in the Red Army’s history, and the first town the Red Army entered in the Garze Tibetan area.

Hailuogou, at the foot of Gongga Snow Mountain in Garze, Sichuan, is famous for its low-altitude modern glacier. The scenic area has rich vegetation and the sparkling modern glacier never melts, a rare sight in the country. Today, let’s go sightseeing in the scenic area. From the visitor center to the sightseeing bus terminal, it’s about an hour’s drive.

Camp 1: just the ticket checkpoint.

Camp 2: used to be hot spring accommodation, now closed.

Pond 3: a viewpoint; the driver asked if anyone wanted to see, but no one got off.

Donggar Monastery: a few Buddha statues, also no one got off.

Camp 3: again no one got off.

Ganheba, the sightseeing bus terminal.

Next there are two route choices:

One is to hike to see the glacier up close, passing the old platform, about an hour’s walk.

The second is to take a sightseeing car 3.5 km, about 40 minutes, to Camp 4, where you can see waterfalls and another view.

We chose to hike to the glacier.

So we set off, walking and looking...

Here, almost everyone couldn’t help but exclaim, so beautiful, so gorgeous. This pure natural beauty bestowed by nature truly leaves people speechless, no words can describe it.

(Lalala! How can we not take lots of beautiful photos in such a wickedly beautiful place?)

In the afternoon, we came out of Hailuogou scenic area and continued our journey. Today’s destination is the photographer’s paradise, Xinduqiao!!!

After passing Kangding, we started climbing over Zheduo Mountain, and once again saw spectacular snow mountains.

Atop Zheduo Mountain, we began watching the sunset! And took some silhouette photos.

P.S.: Extra chicken leg for the photographer at dinner!!! The photo skills are excellent.

Actually, we arrived at Zheduo Pass a bit late today, but luck was on our side. The moment we reached the summit, the blue sky and white clouds were there, and even a sea of clouds rose. Awesome!

Today’s destination is Daocheng Yading. Some friends might not know the difference between Daocheng and Yading—let me clear it up: 'Daocheng Yading Scenic Area is located within Yading Village, Shangri-La Town, Daocheng County, Garze Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province.'

But the beauty is always on the road.

At 4700 meters altitude? Playing around doesn’t feel that different.

Let’s be wild while we’re young; if we don’t go crazy now, we’ll be too old.

(P.S.: Please ignore my domineering side kick, thanks!!!)

The white crane,

please lend me your wings,

I won’t fly far away,

I’ll just circle Litang and come back

— 'The White Crane'

Tsangyang Gyatso never stepped into his dream grassland, but the song 'The Crane' was kept alive by the people and sung to this day. This song, like the name Tsangyang Gyatso, represents freedom, love, romance, compassion, and beauty.

After Rabbit Mountain, we entered the area of Haizi Mountain. The character of Haizi Mountain is unique; some love its 'wildness' and linger, while others dislike its 'desolation' and avoid it. Some say it’s like Mars, some say it’s like an alien base.

We had too much fun on the road and reached here as the sun was setting. But isn’t travel just about being spontaneous?

Watching the sunset is also wonderful.

Around 8 pm we arrived in Shangri-La Town. Somehow, we decided to grill some skewers and taste if the flavors here were like back home.

I want someone like you, like a refreshing mountain breeze, like the warm light of an ancient town, from morning till night, from the wilderness to the study, everything doesn’t matter as long as it’s you in the end. One person will eventually have another, nod, and count the road signs of life...

If I fall for someone, I’ll take her to a place called Daocheng Yading...

The movie 'I Belonged to You' made Daocheng Yading hot. 'You must go at least once in this lifetime' and I finally made it here.

Luorong Cattle Farm: the proposal scene in the movie was filmed right here at Luorong Cattle Farm.

The grassland is vast and boundless, surrounded by three divine mountains. The three holy mountains inspire awe, the scenery is incredibly beautiful. The last pure land on the blue planet is indeed different: white snow mountains, pure lakes, golden meadows, herds of cattle and sheep, like a fairyland!

The uphill path is exhausting! Gasping! After a few steps, you’re out of breath and have to stop and rest for a few minutes. No wonder they say traveling here is 'eyes in heaven, body in hell.'

I really want to thank my buddies here; without their help along the way, my chances of reaching the summit felt slim.

Thank you, my friends, so happy to have you on this trip.

Milk Lake, Five-Color Lake,

after crossing mountains and ridges, I finally met you! For this meeting, I could even endure the altitude sickness.

Because Daocheng Yading is a detour off the G318, after Yading we had to backtrack to Litang. Then follow the G318 west all the way to the sacred land of Tibet. When we passed Daocheng before, it was already dark, so today we could enjoy this area again.

Gesang flowers, the most resilient wildflowers in Tibet. It’s not a single flower but a collective name for many flowers. They bloom quietly on the snowy plateau, beside streams, along paths, symbols of tenacity, happiness, and good fortune. Sitting among beautiful Gesang flowers, I heard singing from afar—it was a herding girl.

When we arrived at the White Tower in Daocheng, we saw many locals circling it. Truly, they circle mountains, waters, and the white tower.

Suddenly I thought of Tsangyang Gyatso’s poem:

In that life, I turned mountains, waters, and stupas, not to seek rebirth, but only to meet you on the way;

That month, I gently turned all prayer wheels, not for deliverance, but to touch your fingerprints;

That year, I prostrated and embraced the dust, not to worship Buddha, but to cling to your warmth;

In that life, I carefully searched through a hundred thousand mountains, not for rebirth, but to encounter you on the road.

Maoya Grassland was rated as one of China’s six most beautiful grasslands by China's Geography magazine. The G318 Sichuan-Tibet Highway cuts through the belly of Maoya’s meadows, winding toward a paradise—though the word paradise is overused.

In this picturesque beauty, having a picnic is wonderful.

They say cross-dressing bosses only have a first time and countless times after? So let’s give our little bro his first time, hahaha.

Heading west along the G318 into Tibet, crossing a pass in the middle of the Shaluli Mountains, a turn reveals an enchanting sight—Haizi Mountain Twin Lakes. Two crystal-clear blue plateau lakes lean on each other tenderly, exuding an intoxicating tranquility between breaths. Set in the barren mountain wilderness, they are like jewels of heaven, like tears of divine compassion fallen to earth, pure and approachable.

A thousand-mile search just for you.

Finally, this moment has come. I’ve been longing for years. Tibet, I’m here.

Today we’ll pass the famous Sky Road 72 Turns and the Nujiang Grand Canyon, getting closer to Lhasa!

The sky is blue, vast and azure. That blue is light, like a blue crystal, giving a pure and refreshing feeling. Gazing at it, my whole heart feels empty, only the blue sky before my eyes. Clouds bloom in the valleys, hazy, clean, and mysterious, like pure snow lotuses.

Dongda Mountain is called 'the forbidden zone of life,' at 5130 meters, close to Everest Base Camp. This is a relatively accurate altitude—meaning it’s the highest point on the Sichuan-Tibet Highway. But for us who’ve adapted, no altitude sickness at all.

Descending Ye La Mountain leads to the Nujiang 72 Turns. The 'Nujiang 72 Turns' stretch about 12 km. Standing on the cliffs looking down is terrifying. As a must-take route on the southern Sichuan-Tibet line, it challenges many cyclists and drivers. Every year, travelers marvel at this road. Driven by curiosity, I counted each turn and ended up with 108 turns.

From over 4000-5000 meters altitude, through the 72 turns down to the foot of the mountain at just over 2000 meters, the majestic Nujiang River is fully revealed.

We met pilgrims prostrating! They were very friendly and willing to take photos with us.

Exactly like the scenes in the movie Paths of the Soul, so devout, so moving. And fatefully, we met them in the Nujiang Grand Canyon. We chatted for a bit; they started from Qamdo and had been on the road for over two months. Their destination was Lhasa. Bless them.

The stretch from Basu to Bomi is the essence of the Sichuan-Tibet line. Today’s itinerary includes two important sights: first stop is Ranwu Lake.

Ranwu Lake is essentially a landslide-dammed lake, fed mainly by snowmelt from surrounding mountains.

This season isn't the best for viewing Ranwu Lake; after the rainy season, the water is relatively murky.

Brother Shen said Ranwu Lake is very beautiful in March. Maybe someday I’ll come back in March to see it.

China’s most beautiful glacier, Midui Glacier, holy and flawless.

(Bad weather, looks just average.)

But seeing the distant snow mountains shining, the blooming mountain flowers around the glacier, the lush forest, and the charming, mysterious pastoral scenery of Midui Village—I could hardly believe I was on a plateau.

Bomi is a well-equipped town in the Tibetan region, and its reputation as the 'Little Jiangnan of Tibet' constantly tugs at people’s heartstrings.

Passing Lulang at noon,

the legendary Medog Stone Pot Chicken—

how could I not try it as a foodie?

So delicious my tongue almost fell off, hahaha. We ate at two tables, drinking soup until full.

Passing Sejila Mountain Pass, the weather was awful, really no mood to take photos (actually, we were too full from Lulang and dozed off in the car, haha).

Sacred Lhasa was right before us. Even though I was initially calm, I felt a bit anxious, just wanting to see that red-and-white palace—

Potala Palace.

For some reason, some buddies suggested climbing to the summit.

Then we started hiking at over 5000 meters altitude.

Honestly, I didn’t want to go—climbing from Mila Pass up to the summit.

One word: tiring! Two words: very tiring!

But the view from the summit was many times more beautiful than from the pass.

Dwelling in the Potala Palace,

I am the greatest king in the snow land.

Wandering the streets of Lhasa,

I am the most beautiful lover in the world. — Finally seeing you, Potala Palace.

This morning we got up at six. Why? To queue early at the Potala Palace gate for tomorrow’s visit tickets. When we reached the Potala Palace square, the line was already long. We all waited silently in the cold wind. Luckily, we got tickets for 11 am the next day.

Tickets sorted, now let’s head to Yamdrok Lake.

Yamdrok Yumtso means 'Turquoise Lake' in Tibetan, one of Tibet’s three sacred lakes (the other two being Namtso and Manasarovar). It’s also the easiest sacred lake to reach from Lhasa. People usually abbreviate Yamdrok Yumtso as 'Yang Lake,' though the real Yang Lake is in northern Ngari.

As the largest inland lake on the northern foothills of the Himalayas, its area equals 70 West Lakes of Hangzhou. Yamdrok Yumtso has many branches; from above, it spreads like coral.

The first sight of Yamdrok Yumtso deeply captivated me with its pure blue!

I asked myself, how can she be so purely, so intoxicatingly beautiful!

Some places, only when you experience them firsthand, do you know their beauty.

Motherland, today is your birthday. Here in Tibet, at Yamdrok Lake, I wish you prosperity.

Free time: Jokhang Temple, Potala Palace, and the legendary Makye Ame! Must visit them all! But still need to get up early; we wanted to see the prostrating devotees at Jokhang Temple first.

Tasted Makye Ame’s Tibetan cuisine; the flavor was quite good, with strong local character.

In Barkhor Street, Lhasa, Tibet, there’s a bar called 'Makye Ame.' Makye Ame means 'lover' in Tibetan, said to be the name of Tsangyang Gyatso’s beloved.

Makye Ame, how not to fail the Buddha and not fail you?

The Potala Palace is not mine, can't invite you to live together;

The cassock is not mine, can't drape it over you for warmth;

The steed is not mine, can't carry you into my dreams at night;

My body is not mine, can't accompany you to old age;

My heart is my own, but before Buddha, I am not in control.

I'm willing to give you all my heart, or simply split it in two, not failing Buddha and not failing you.

Photography is forbidden inside the Potala Palace for tourists; sneaking a shot can get your camera confiscated or worse. Flash damages the murals, so it’s prohibited. So we took lots of photos outside as keepsakes.

(P.S.: I heard the paint for the Potala Palace is mixed with milk, red and white sugar, and Tibetan medicine in a special formula. It’s sweet, but I was too timid to taste it. Any buddies who’ve tried, quietly let me know!)

In 'Princess Wencheng,' the stage backdrop is real mountains, and the animals running on stage are real and alive. This is definitely the largest and most stunning stage I’ve ever seen. Even if other indoor theaters have bigger stages and more realistic props, they can’t compare. Unlike other performances, photography is allowed, and the audience can snap freely. So I clicked many shots, but then realized a problem—I wasn’t fully focused on the performance and missed some parts.

After years of longing and dreaming, finally made it to Tibet.

Tibet, the place closest to the sky, the original homeland of the soul.

Many people have boundless aspirations for it.

Because of it, we met, connected, cherished.

Grateful for your company along the way, grateful for everything.

Travelogue directory: 1. Itinerary planning 2. D1 Chengdu—Shimian—Hailuogou 3. D2 Hailuogou—Kangding—Xinduqiao 4. D3 Xinduqiao—Litang—Daocheng—Shangri-La Town 5. D4 Yading day tour 6. D5 Shangri-La Town—Litang—Batang—Mangkang 7. D6 Mangkang—Bonda—Zuogong—Basu 8. D7 Basu—Ranwu—Midui Glacier—Bomi 9. D8 Bomi—Lulang—Nyingchi 10. D9 Nyingchi—Mila Mountain—Lhasa 11. D10 Lhasa—Yamdrok Lake—Lhasa 12. D11 Lhasa free activity 13. Afterword Travel tips, hotel index, guide index, flight index, website navigation, travel index, cruise index, business travel index, franchise cooperation, distribution alliance, friendly links, corporate gift card procurement, insurance agency, agency cooperation, hotel franchise, destination and scenic spot cooperation, more franchise cooperation. About Ctrip, about Ctrip, Ctrip hotspots, contact us, join us, user agreement, privacy policy, business license, security center, Ctrip content center, intellectual property, Trip.com Group algorithm disclosure.