Tibet is a dream I can't stop thinking about, an addiction I can't shake off!
Let me tell you about this trip
Buddha's light pierces the boundless desolation
There is a voice of blissful peace
In the morning I flap my wings of white cloud
At night I prostrate beneath your paradise
All creatures flow with the Yarlung Tsangpo River
Time stretches longer and longer at the Potala Palace
The boundless grasslands open their embrace
I am a gentle sheep
Gazing up at the vast snowy land
The scenery is enchanting, the grass so green
Everywhere becomes the pasture of my soul
......
————"I Want to Go to Tibet"
Whenever I hear this song, my longing for distant Tibet grows a little more.
I think many people, like me, carry a Tibet dream in their hearts. Those who travel to Tibet have their own reasons—some for faith, some to heal, some for a dream.....
Perhaps, going to Tibet doesn't need any reason at all. This magical land has imbued Tibet with a mysterious aura, making everyone yearn for it.
For those who have never been, Tibet is a dream, a dream they yearn for day and night.
For those who have been, Tibet is an addiction—once you go, you want to return.
Some say you must go to Tibet at least twice: once to leave your heart there, and once to retrieve the heart you left behind. So, my first long trip of 2020 took me back to Tibet again.
Then... follow my footsteps and take a look at what I encountered on my second trip to Tibet, and see which spots are worth visiting~
First, a glimpse of the beauty; I'll tell you the story in more detail later.
At Hailuogou, waiting for the clouds to part, the snowy mountain is right before my eyes.
On the road from Litang to Daocheng, it felt like stepping into a world of white.
At Rabbit Mountain, 4,696 meters above sea level, the plateau blue is pure.
Milk Lake, at 4,600 meters, was my fourth encounter.
On the way from Nyingchi to Lhasa, I met Lulang, the place where immortals dwell, like breaking into a pastoral painting.
In rainy May, Ranwu Lake also has its enchanting side.
Laying my eyes on the much-longed-for Namtso, it was even more beautiful than I had imagined.
Meeting Yamdrok Lake again, luckily under fine weather, the scene before me was a magnificent picture scroll.
Walking along Barkhor Street, which preserves a long history and unique charm, I soaked up the strong Tibetan flavor.
The wondrous, majestic Potala Palace shines brilliantly under blue sky and white clouds.
Choosing a Self-Drive Route
There are many routes for self-driving in Tibet: the Xinjiang–Tibet Highway, Qinghai–Tibet Highway, Yunnan–Tibet Highway, Northern Sichuan–Tibet Highway, Southern Sichuan–Tibet Highway, Bingchacha Road, Sino-Nepal Friendship Highway, and more.
For many travelers, driving the Sichuan–Tibet line is an important stop on their travel plan. The Sichuan–Tibet line refers to National Highway 318, the first motorable road connecting Chengdu in Sichuan with Lhasa in Tibet, also known as the Sichuan–Tibet Highway. It runs 2,142 kilometers in total, the longest national highway in China, and it is also the most beautiful highway. Journeying west from Chengdu to Lhasa means crossing mountains and traversing ridges while the weather changes often and the scenery varies with every location. Gongga Snow Mountain, Hailuogou Glacier, Haizishan Twin Lakes, Ranwu Lake, Yarlung Tsangpo Grand Canyon, etc. You can find every kind of plateau landscape here. Driving along the Sichuan–Tibet line is a visual feast.
This time I again chose the Southern Sichuan–Tibet line, simply because I love the feeling of being on the road—heading west all the way to the paradise I long for, a journey that is tough yet yields beauty in just the right measure.
Actually, for a self-drive trip on the Sichuan–Tibet line, if you have a few friends setting off together, you can drive yourselves. But for someone like me, who just impulsively hits the road alone, carpooling is the best option. And anyone familiar with this route knows you must have a very skilled and professional driver to deal with any situations along the way. So a professional driver/guide is very important here; they can save us a lot of trouble. For those who want to go to Tibet but are worried about various issues, I would recommend pooling a car like this.
About Itinerary and Accommodation
D1: Chengdu — Hailuogou (stayed at Moyu Old Town Tianyi Hotel)
D2: Hailuogou — Litang (stayed at Litang Meiduo Boutique Hotel)
D3: Litang — Daocheng Yading (stayed at Daocheng Yading Qiyun Meisu Hotel)
D4: Full day in Yading (stayed at Daocheng Yading Qiyun Meisu Hotel)
D5: Yading — Markam (stayed at Honglanshan Business Hotel)
D6: Markam — Bomê (stayed at Bomê Gezhi Hotel)
D7: Bomê — Lhasa (stayed at Meikang International Hotel)
D8: Lhasa – Potala Palace, Barkhor Street (stayed at Meikang International Hotel)
D9: Yamdrok Lake (stayed at Meikang International Hotel)
D10: Namtso (stayed at Meikang International Hotel)
D11: Leisurely stroll around Lhasa city (stayed at Meikang International Hotel)
D12: Lhasa — Guangzhou
Due to special circumstances, we didn't stay overnight in Nyingchi this time but drove straight from Bomê to Lhasa, leaving a small regret for this trip—but that just gives us a reason to set off again next time.
Except for the accommodation in Moyu Old Town and Markam, which were just average, the hotels we chose for the rest of the journey are all recommendable.
Of course, if you don't want to bother with these details yourself, you can leave it all to the driver and guide, Boss Ma, and he'll take care of it—clean and safe—so you can just focus on having fun.
Moreover, it's easy to book hotels in this season; there's basically no need to reserve in advance, and the prices aren't high, so you can simply choose once you arrive.
For a foodie like me, a trip without good food is incomplete. Many say there's nothing delicious in Tibet and they can't get used to Tibetan food. But for our group, who talked about food all along the way, from Chengdu to Lhasa, we managed to satisfy our taste buds by exploring the streets and alleys, always finding some heartwarming delicacies. That's how you make a trip worthwhile.
So let me share a few restaurants we tried and liked, hoping you'll enjoy both beautiful scenery and tasty food on your journey in Tibet.
Kangding: Jimao Dian, specialty Sichuan-style restaurant.
Address: 48 Yanhe East Road, bottom floor of the Old Town Catholic Church, Kangding City
Litang: Litang County Special Casserole Yak Meat Restaurant
Address: 314, New Village of Herdsmen, Gaocheng Town, Xianhe Avenue, Litang County (right by the road, easy to find)
Baxoi: Yangsheng Junwang Fu (Mushroom King Health-Preserving Restaurant)
Address: 3-4 South Street, Baxoi County (at the side gate of He Yuan Residential Compound)
Bomê: Shengdi Zhuolong Tibetan Family Banquet
Address: 150 meters left after crossing Sandeng Bridge, Sandeng Avenue, Sandeng Village, Bomê County
Lulang: Lulang Qingzhen Food City
Address: Building 3, Hengda Bar Street, Bayi District
Lhasa: Hua Zhi Lin Humanistic Tea Restaurant
Address: 3rd Floor, Insect Grass Building, Duodi South Road, Lhasa
Lhasa: Tiancun Sour Soup Yak Meat
Address: 3rd Floor, City Department Store entrance, Chengguan District, Lhasa
Travel Tips for Tibet
1. The temperature difference between day and night in Tibet is huge—it can vary by over ten degrees.
2. People say you need to bring clothes for all four seasons when going to Tibet, to cope with the climate changes at different places on the plateau. So even if you set off in spring or summer, besides summer clothes, you need long trousers, long sleeves, a sweater, down jacket or windbreaker to withstand the nighttime drop in temperature and the weather changes at high altitudes. Also, bring some bright-colored clothes like red or blue, which look especially good in photos.
Choose comfortable shoes, and bring a pair of non-slip sports shoes, which will come in handy when climbing Daocheng Yading.
3. No matter which season you visit Tibet, the UV rays are extremely strong. Always bring sunglasses and sun protection gear, including a hat, sunscreen, and lip balm. The air is dry, so you'll need face masks, hand cream, and other moisturizing skincare products.
ID card: In Tibet, you can't go anywhere without your ID. Visiting places like the Potala Palace or Jokhang Temple requires scanning your ID for security checks, and every place you pass through along the G318 also requires scanning your ID, so keep it on you at all times.
Insulated mug: Getting a sip of hot water on the road isn't easy. Carrying one with you lets you warm up with hot water at high, cold altitudes.
Equipment: Mobile phone, camera, charger, spare batteries, power bank.
Cash: Keep some cash as backup, though WeChat and Alipay are accepted in many places now, so just a little cash for emergencies.
Medicine: Oral glucose in portable packs is handy to carry around and can relieve altitude sickness. Motion sickness pills, headache medicine, cold medicine, stomach medicine, and anti-diarrhea medicine aren't strictly necessary; bring some depending on your personal situation.
1. About altitude sickness: Not everyone gets it, because everyone's body is different and adapts to altitude differently. Mild symptoms include headache, nausea, and insomnia; these can be relieved by resting well. Slightly more serious symptoms include vomiting, purplish lips, inability to sleep at night, waking up many times, feeling very dry the next day, and even nosebleeds. In such cases, you can buy an oxygen canister or check if the hotel has an oxygen concentrator; inhaling oxygen will provide relief.
The most important thing is to stay relaxed and not be overly nervous or excited. You can take some anti-altitude-sickness medicine like "Hongjingtian" (Rhodiola) about a week before entering Tibetan areas.
2. Once you enter Tibetan-inhabited areas, please respect local religious beliefs, customs, and traditions.
There's a Kind of Beauty Called Hailuogou
Setting off early from Chengdu, we reached our first stop, Hailuogou, by midday. After lunch in Moxi Old Town, we bought tickets and entered the scenic area. Riding a sightseeing bus up the winding mountain road, we arrived at Ganheba in Camp 3.
Ganheba is the terminus of the sightseeing bus and the starting point for glacier tours. Here, you can take the glacier cableway to Camp 4 or choose to hike the approximately 3-kilometer glacier footpath to the glacier observation deck, along a route dominated by pristine forest scenery. Both routes offer views of the glacier, but Camp 4 provides a more spectacular glacier vista and is the highlight of a Hailuogou visit. So whether to hike or take the cableway depends on your physical fitness and schedule; we took the cableway directly to Camp 4.
Hailuogou lies on the eastern edge of the Qinghai–Tibet Plateau, on the eastern slope of Mount Gongga, the "King of Sichuan Mountains," within Luding County, Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province. From the Dadu River valley at 1,000 meters to the summit of Mount Gongga at 7,556 meters, Hailuogou boasts an exceptionally rich natural landscape, famous for Gongga Snow Mountain, glaciers, hot springs, red rocks, forests, clouds, and mist.
Generally, glaciers in the world are found at relatively high altitudes, but at Hailuogou you can see a glacier at as low as 2,850 meters, so it is renowned for its low-altitude modern glacier.
"Four seasons in one valley, different skies every ten miles"—the weather on the plateau changes unpredictably. One moment it's a clear, boundless sky; when we took the cableway to Camp 4, it started raining, and the snowy mountain that had just been in view instantly disappeared into the clouds and mist. Not seeing the snow mountain gave me a slight sense of loss.
Camp 4 sits at 3,600 meters altitude. When the weather is clear, you can see Glacier No. 1, Glacier No. 2, Glacier No. 3, the Great Ice Fall, the "King of Sichuan Mountains" Mount Gongga, and the sea of clouds, among other sights.
I remember when I first came to Hailuogou last March, the weather was superb; not only could I clearly see the snow mountain, but I also saw a solar halo (let me show off two photos from that time, haha~).
Watching the rain get heavier, I wanted to leave but couldn't bear to. I struggled with the desire to wait for the sun to come out. But the heavens favored us after all—just as we were waiting in anguish, the rain stopped, and the moment the clouds parted, the snowy mountain was right there. Against the snow mountain, even the clouds were especially enchanting.
Hailuogou is located in an area of mid-high, high, and extremely high mountains, with a drop of over 6,000 meters. As altitude changes, unique vegetation zones have formed. Among the rolling peaks grows lush, verdant pristine forest, so this is also a natural oxygen bar, with beautiful scenery and fresh air.
There are snowy mountains, forests, glaciers, hot springs...
This is Hailuogou. On this vast land, it is full of nature's magical colors.
I've seen scenery in many places, but as you pass through every landscape and look back, you realize that even meeting it again can still captivate.
【tips】
1. Tickets: Online ticket 158.5 yuan/person (including sightseeing bus), cableway 135 yuan/person
2. Opening hours:
May–October: 07:00–14:30; November–next April: 08:00–14:30
3. Once inside the scenic area, the temperature changes greatly; even in summer, bring an extra layer to keep warm.
There's a Love I Can't Forget Called Daocheng Yading
There is a place called Daocheng,
I want to go there with the one I love,
to see the white snow,
to see a fairy tale of autumn,
as long as it's you in the end.
—"Passing Through Your World"
Daocheng Yading is a sacred secret pursued by every travel lover, a holy land everyone should visit at least once in their life! Those who haven't been are captivated by a single photo; those who have been only need one glance to fall in love and never forget!
Daocheng Yading lies on the western Sichuan Plateau. Snowy mountains and glaciers, meadows and forests, streams and lakes—it has all the elements of a snowy plateau. It is praised as "the last Shangri-La," with an average altitude of 4,000 meters, and is also the filming location for "Passing Through Your World." Here, it's picturesque all year round, and every season has its own charm that draws people from all directions.
Speaking of Daocheng Yading, it holds the deepest memories for me—this was my fourth time climbing Yading. Every time I go, I hear many different voices. Some say: "Once is enough for any place; why torment yourself and go several times?" Some say: "What gives you the courage to climb that many times?"...
Maybe I am just the kind who likes to test myself. There are some beloved places I want to challenge. But after going through all the hardships and reaching the finish line, at that moment I feel it was all worth it.
Unlike the last time, this time I didn't stay at the entrance of Yading Scenic Area; I stayed in Shangri-La Town. In the morning, I needed a short drive up to the scenic area. Yading in mid-May wasn't crowded; I had bought tickets online in advance and entered the scenic area by scanning my ID.
Taking the sightseeing bus up the winding mountain road, it took about an hour to reach the bus terminal. There, you can take an electric cart to Luorong Cattle Farm, then hike to Milk Lake or Five-Color Lake.
The previous night saw a heavy snowfall, and the morning weather was uncooperative—drizzle mixed with snow. When we arrived at Luorong Cattle Farm, it was a vast white world with nothing visible. Seeing the scene before me, I almost wanted to give up hiking (since I'd been here several times before, not going up wouldn't have been a regret). But then I thought, since I'm here, wouldn't not going up be a waste of the ticket? In the end, torn inside, I chose to head up.
Actually, climbing Yading is like life itself—you never know what surprise the next moment will bring. You might feel disappointed not seeing the snowy mountain in the snowfall, but when the sun breaks through the clouds and the snowy mountain appears right before you, that's the unexpected joy Yading brings.
Very fortunately, we were once again favored by heaven; it cleared up for us in Yading. In fact, on the plateau, you often experience all four seasons in a single day—that's the most real feeling of climbing Yading.
For me, on my fourth hike, I was already very familiar with the trail, so it wasn't as tough as before. Seeing the sky clear, I kept walking upward and, without noticing, reached the top.
At the foot of Mount Jampalyang lies the lucid, clear Milk Lake, surrounded by snowy peaks and with waters of an intense blue. Milk Lake at 4,600 meters is like a tear of Yading, or a jewel among the peaks. The lake's center is a pure, vivid blue, fading to light green and then to transparency at the shores... As breeze ruffles the water and sunlight filters through the clouds, the lake shifts through hues, romantic yet profound.
Milk Lake is beautiful and enchanting. From a distance, it looks like a piece of jade set among snowy mountains, pure and serene. No matter how many times I see it, I'm still moved by its beauty.
To see Five-Color Lake, climb up the steep slope to the right of Milk Lake. Five-Color Lake lies between Mount Chenrezig and Mount Jampalyang, at 4,700 meters. Its circular surface makes it Yading's highest lake.
From the ridge, looking down, the lake surface is hazy, as if in a dream. When the weather is sunny, the plants on the lakebed and the water reflect different highlights under the sunlight, with gradual transitions and subtle shifts, like a still yet spectacular oil painting. On overcast days, the Five-Color Lake nestled among the mountains will calm your state of mind with the deepest blue, letting you experience how life flows through countless changes.
Only when you stand here can you truly grasp their beauty. Here, the beauty interprets blue to the fullest; the blue here is the sky blue you can see by looking up, the brilliant lake blue scattered among the mountains. Looking at this pure blue, the lake surface calm like a mirror, it feels like glimpsing the soul hidden within, bringing a moment of relaxation and freedom. I suppose everyone falls in love with Daocheng Yading for different reasons, but we're all touched and enchanted by its beauty.
Coming back down to Luorong Cattle Farm, the cattle, sheep, and deer... are quietly enjoying the sunshine and green grass on the meadow, with the quiet snowy mountains in the distance, forming a primitive and charming picture that soothes the heart!
【tips】
1. Ticket: 266 yuan/person, including sightseeing bus (ticket prices vary between peak and off-peak seasons, check the scenic area for changes)
2. Electric cart: 50 yuan/person one way, 80 yuan/person round trip.
3. The weather in the scenic area can change drastically; prepare a rain poncho. It's cold at the summit, so keep warm.
4. Wear non-slip shoes. Some sections are icy or damp; if needed, bring trekking poles.
5. If prone to altitude sickness, carry an oxygen canister as a precaution.
6. Bring some snacks or energy-boosting food, since the round trip of several hours can deplete your energy.
There is a Fairyland Called Ranwu Lake
Ranwu Lake lies in the southwestern corner of Baxoi County, Qamdo Prefecture. In Tibetan, the name means "a lake like goat's milk." Right next to the Sichuan–Tibet Highway, it is a stunningly beautiful spot along the road. It is known as the "largest lake in eastern Tibet" and is a picturesque Heavenly Queen Mother's Pool—a paradise on earth that needs no entrance ticket.
North of Ranwu Lake stands the famous Laigu Glacier. The glacier stretches to the lake shore, and when snow and ice melt, the water flows into the lake, maintaining abundant water levels. As seasons change, the lake's color shifts between brilliant blue, verdant green, and other hues.
In May, the ice on Ranwu Lake has melted, revealing a expanse of emerald green water. With a fine drizzle falling from the sky and the lake embraced by mountains, Ranwu Lake appeared especially peaceful.
Spruce forests on snowy peaks, mountains, rivers, and lakes—these are the views I long to see on the road.
【tips】
Even though summer has arrived, the weather on the plateau can change drastically, and daytime temperatures hover around 10°C (or lower), so still keep warm.
When taking photos at Ranwu Lake, wear colorful clothes like red or blue to stand out nicely. For instance, I unintentionally wore a floral skirt and a blue sweater, which both gave a bit of summer flavor and blended seamlessly with the color of the lake.
There is a Place Where Immortals Dwell Called Lulang
Lulang, about 80 kilometers from Bayi Town in Nyingchi, lies deep in the mountains along the Sichuan–Tibet road and is a must-pass point on National Highway 318. Lulang means "Dragon King Valley" or "place where immortals dwell," and enjoys the reputation of a "natural oxygen bar." Stepping into Lulang feels like wandering into a fairy realm.
Leaving Bomê, after passing the Tongmai natural barrier, the road gradually widens and the vegetation on both sides becomes lush. Driving along the highway is like traveling through a forest sea.
Lulang was just a brief rest stop on our way to Lhasa; we hadn't planned to stay long. As we drove on, an endless expanse of green forest sea came into view. Seeing this refreshing scenery, I couldn't resist getting out to soak in the fresh air from nature.
Lulang is also called "Oriental Switzerland." The snow mountains, forests, and pastoral fields that Swiss villages boast can all be enjoyed here. Even though this is a plateau over 3,000 meters high, green hills encircle it, trees are dense, and the diverse vegetation turns Lulang into a natural oxygen bar.
On the boundless grassland, distinctive wooden fences and plank houses dot the green hills and meadows in an orderly way, crops planted by herders are scattered among the fields, all in that magnificent natural green. All this composes a tranquil pastoral painting—truly a fairyland on earth, a dwelling place of immortals.
Entering Lulang Town, you find a town full of design, with Tibetan-style houses of various architectural features, seamlessly blending with the magnificent natural landscape of the snowy plateau, giving a sense of wonder and rustic beauty—a unique sight here.
Though I only stayed for a short two hours, it was enough to make me feel that Lulang is a comfortable, happiness-filled town. Surrounded by snowy mountains and forest sea all year round, looking far into the distance, the small village amid the clouds and mist is the scenery I hoped for; snowy peaks and clouds nestle in the distance. Here, the whole world seems to quiet down. Gazing at the landscape, I became a tiny dot within it—you watch the scenery, and someone watching the scenery watches you from afar.
Next time I come,
let's stay overnight in this earthly paradise of Lulang
and properly savor this dwelling place of immortals!
There's a Tibetan Flavor Called Barkhor Street
Anyone who has been to Lhasa knows the name Barkhor Street. First-time visitors to Lhasa won't miss a stroll there, walking along Barkhor and feeling the sunshine city.
Barkhor Street is located in the old city area of Lhasa. It is a famous circumambulation circuit and commercial center, preserving much of the old city's traditional appearance and way of life. Originally just a single circumambulation path around the Jokhang Temple, Tibetans called it the "Sacred Path." Over time it has expanded into a sizable old-style neighborhood surrounding the Jokhang Temple.
Barkhor Street is the perfect place to enjoy Lhasa's sunshine. Under the clear blue sky, clouds seem within arm's reach. The Tibetan-style buildings, with their arrays of healing colors, unfold before your eyes—a unique cityscape here.
Walking along Barkhor Street, which holds a long history and unique charm, you can see pilgrims everywhere, circumambulating clockwise around the Jokhang Temple, kora after kora, recording their life and faith with every step. A day, a month, a year, a lifetime... many spend their whole lives in these circumambulation days. Strolling here, the feeling of having no distracting thoughts can hardly be expressed in simple words. The people here seem both peaceful and imbued with tolerance and charisma.
The flavor of a city lies entirely in the flow of time.
When you come to Barkhor Street, even if you don't want to buy anything, just blending into the crowd, strolling at leisure, or finding a sweet tea house to sit quietly and watch the passersby outside, amid the stream of pilgrims, you can still find that familiar taste, that moment belonging to you and Lhasa, and you will still be touched by small details for no particular reason. Every city has its dazzling, brilliant side and its other side steeped in the hustle and bustle of life. Lhasa is no exception.
There's a Wonder Called the Potala Palace
Whether they have set foot in Tibet or not, people always have an indescribable affection for Tibet and a special fondness for the thousand-year-old Potala Palace. So the first stop upon arriving in Lhasa is never missed.
The Potala Palace is the highest-altitude grand architectural complex in the world, integrating a palace, a fortress, and a monastery. It is also Tibet's largest and most intact ancient palatial complex. Built against the mountain, with layered buildings and towering halls, it is magnificent and imposing—an outstanding example of Tibetan ancient architecture and a masterpiece of ancient Chinese architecture, depicted on the back of the 50-yuan note of the fifth series of the Renminbi. The main structure is divided into the White Palace and the Red Palace. The building stands over 200 meters tall, with 13 exterior stories and 9 interior stories.
The Potala Palace is primarily white and red in architectural style, with distinct colors. Standing in Potala Palace Square, you can immediately feel the grandeur of this edifice towering under blue sky and white clouds.
Due to special circumstances, the Potala Palace hadn't reopened to the public during our visit, so we couldn't go inside and could only take exterior photos at the square. However, this was my second time here, and photography is also not allowed inside the palace. The interior houses and preserves extremely rich historical relics—murals, stupas, statues, thangkas, and precious scriptures such as palm-leaf sutras. There are also gold albums, gold seals, jade seals, and large quantities of gold and silver objects, porcelain, enamelware, jade articles, brocade pieces, and artisanal treasures bestowed by Ming and Qing emperors upon lamas, symbolizing the historical relationship between the local Tibetan government and the central government. These cultural relics are dazzlingly colorful and diverse in theme.
So why Tibet is considered mysterious, and the Potala Palace wondrous, these wonders cannot be conveyed by words alone; you must see them with your own eyes to understand and to feel the long-standing Tibetan cultural history.
Having seen the Potala Palace by day, I didn't want to miss its nighttime appearance. Sitting alone in Potala Palace Square, quietly watching every blade of grass and every brick and tile here, watching the sunset fall, the Potala Palace under the night sky is no longer as imposing as in the daytime. Shrouded in a halo, it carries a shyness and exudes a charm.
Without many visitors but with countless stories, looking at the Potala Palace before me, I felt as if I had stepped into a distant dream.
【tips】
1. The Potala Palace reopened to the public on June 3; you can book and purchase tickets in advance through the official platform.
2. When visiting the Potala Palace, observe all the taboos of Tibetan Buddhism, such as no photography (after entering the palace halls; exterior photos are allowed outside), no stepping on thresholds, etc.
There's a Fond Attachment Called Yamdrok Lake
I remember the first time I went to Yamdrok Lake, the weather was bad and it was freezing cold; I stayed only briefly and left with an unfinished feeling regret. I told myself I must come back to the places I love and see their different beauty in each season.
For over a year, my heart had been hung up on this regretful Yamdrok Lake, so once again I traversed mountains and rivers to stand before it.
From Lhasa city, it takes about three hours by car. The vehicle wound through the mountains, and the scenery outside the window was like poetry and painting. Through the car window I could see Yamdrok Lake, the rolling mountains and drifting clouds, and that jewel-like blue water. Seeing it again, I was still stunned by it, and I couldn't resist taking a picture of this moving scene through the window.
Yamdrok Lake, also called "Yamdroktso," means "Turquoise Lake" or "Swan Pool" in Tibetan, one of the Three Sacred Lakes of Tibet. The lake's surface is at 4,441 meters altitude, located in Nagarzê County, Shannan Prefecture, Tibet. It is the largest inland lake on the northern foothills of the Himalayas, and its beauty of lakes and mountains is the crown of southern Tibet.
At one of the viewing platforms, overlooking the lake, the surface was calm, a piece of turquoise blue, like a sapphire on the Shannan Plateau—its beauty gentle and touching.
The water of Yamdrok Lake is also affected by the weather. Depending on the sunlight, the lake water shifts through different shades of blue as the sun's rays change, sometimes deep, sometimes light. Yamdrok Lake's water comes from the snowmelt of the surrounding Nyenchen Tanglha Mountains; it has no outlet, and the influx of snowmelt and natural evaporation maintain a peculiar dynamic balance. The lake changes along with the light, evolving into ever-variable blues.
I think God particularly favors Yamdrok Lake. What miraculous pigment was used to paint such a masterpiece? What precious sapphires were inlaid amidst these mountains to form such a mirror surface! Nature's colors are the most dazzling and brilliant. Looking at Yamdrok Lake before me, when it really appears in front of you, words feel pale and powerless.
Blue sky, white clouds, snowy mountains, and lake—the pure blue is a quiet beauty, exceptionally dreamlike. Gazing at this patch of blue, calmly flowing, so quiet it makes you forget to breathe. Yamdrok Lake has a thousand kinds of beauty, and whichever kind, it is irresistible.
There's a "Tso" Called Namtso
My first trip to Tibet didn't include Namtso on the itinerary, and I kept thinking about it after returning. Having missed it the first time, I would never miss it a second time.
The long-yearned Namtso—the moment I saw it, I was overwhelmed by the beauty before my eyes. Perhaps because it is so far removed from worldly clamor, it is so pure and serene in its beauty.
Namtso, meaning "Heavenly Lake" in Tibetan, is one of the "Three Sacred Lakes" of Tibet and the highest-altitude large lake in the world, with a surface elevation of 4,718 meters. Located in Damxung County, Lhasa, Tibet Autonomous Region, it brings together plateau lake, grasslands, snowy mountains, wetlands, and other natural landscapes, beautiful in its quiet purity.
Namtso's water is mainly replenished by natural precipitation and meltwater from high mountains and glaciers, and the lake has no outflow. It freezes over in winter, with melting typically beginning around May each year.
Seen from afar, Namtso is like a giant mirror embedded in the grasslands of northern Tibet. To the southeast rises the permanently snow-covered main peak of Nyenchen Tanglha; to the north, it nestles against rolling highland hills, surrounded by vast grasslands. At first glance, Namtso looks like a brilliant gemstone.
There is also a love legend about Namtso. I think the happiest love in the world is this silent, endless waiting. Through eons of geological change, it is this deep, affectionate watch that keeps Nyenchen Tanglha and Namtso embraced on this plateau's summit. Facing the sacred lake, the depth of love in your heart is the depth of the lake here, and the purity of love in your heart is the clarity of its blue.
Up close, the lake's blue presents itself in various shades before us. The crystalline water seems to hold all the world's blues—transparently blue, captivatingly blue, as if I had stepped into a blue world, my whole being melted by this magical blue. Even using all words of praise feels feeble and powerless against its beauty.
Standing by the lake, treading on the lakeshore gravel, watching the calm surface, seagulls flying happily and freely above, a gentle breeze brushes my face, blowing over the grey mountains, the azure sky, and the lake's surface; all vexations vanish. The holy lake dissolves all earthly troubles.
Namtso in May carries the flavor of summer—an even clearer blue, a more limpid sky. Snow mountains, azure lake, blue sky... all the beautiful things one wishes to see are gathered here. Namtso, like a transcendent, ethereal fairy, captures the heart at a single glance. I suppose this is the charm of the sacred lake!
Namtso, we will surely meet again!
【tips】
1. Ticket: 110 yuan/person
2. From Lhasa to Namtso can be a day trip there and back. You can drive yourself, join a local one-day tour in Lhasa, or hire a car.
3. In May, the temperature at Namtso is still very low; keep warm.
There's a Kind of Scenery Called "On the Road"
Many say Tibet is not in Lhasa, not in the Potala Palace, not in the Jokhang Temple! The real Tibet is on the road, in all the encounters along the way.
The Sichuan–Tibet Highway G318, this highly famous scenic route spanning 2,142 kilometers from Chengdu to Lhasa, is lined with scenery throughout. You never know what surprise awaits around the next bend. The saying "the most beautiful scenery is on the road"—I think only those who have traveled it truly feel it.
On the road from Yajiang to Daocheng Yading, there are always some incredible sights; one of them is the "Eighteen Bends of the Sky Road," named for its high altitude and treacherous twists at 3,990 meters.
I've passed by these Eighteen Bends many times, but each time I'm still curious about them, and each season brings a different view. From the observation deck, looking down, you see the large characters "National Highway 318" and "Eighteen Bends of the Sky Road" painted at the switchbacks. The zigzagging tight turns possess a striking curving beauty.
On an overcast day, the bends are shrouded in clouds and mist, with dark green spruce trees below—a scene with a unique charm.
Rabbit Mountain is located in the northern part of Haizi Mountain Nature Reserve in Litang County, Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan. It is a must-pass point on the road from Litang to Daocheng and Yading, at 4,696 meters altitude. From a distance, it resembles two rabbit ears standing in the wind, a very unusual shape on the barren, grassless peak.
I've passed by Rabbit Mountain many times, but it was always snowing or cloudy. This time, luckily, I encountered a clear day, and the mountain was exceptionally distinct under the blue sky and white clouds.
It was the first time I saw only our small group at the entire observation deck, haha~ We had Rabbit Mountain all to ourselves today. Looking out over this vast, open land with its pure highland blue, all the travel fatigue simply vanished.
On the Sichuan–Tibet Highway there is a spectacular mountain road, the section with the greatest elevation drop on the route—the 72 Turns of the Nujiang River, also known as the "99 Bends of Sichuan–Tibet."
This stretch is one of the more dangerous parts of the Sichuan–Tibet Highway. From the Baxoi La mountain pass at 4,651 meters down to the Nujiang River gorge below, the altitude drops nearly two thousand meters, with continuous, tight switchbacks—many bends, steep slopes, narrow road, extremely challenging. The twisting road evokes awe!
At the observation deck on top of Baxoi La, you can see the full panorama of the 72 Turns. Looking down, the switchbacks come one after another, making you marvel at how such a treacherous road was built back then.
As a must-pass on the Southern Sichuan–Tibet line, for the dangers of the road and the harsh climate, isn't it exactly this risk that makes it more challenging and appealing for self-drivers!
On the road from Litang to Daocheng
It snowed the night I stayed in Litang; the next morning everything was a world of white. Driving along the endless highway, looking through the car window at the outside world, it was like entering a fairytale world of ice and snow—so beautiful it felt a bit unreal. Snowy mountains, grasslands, rivers, and lakes... all scenes I wanted to see.
Self-driving on the Sichuan–Tibet Highway G318, the greatest joy is witnessing the beautiful scenery all along the way. Sunshine and snowy mountains, blue and white are the most beautiful hues of this journey.
Of course, besides the spots I've casually mentioned, there are still many highlights on the Sichuan–Tibet Highway G318 worth experiencing—Luding Bridge, Kangding Love Song City, Zheduo Pass, Kazila Mountain, Haizi Mountain, Midui Glacier, and other natural wonders. Traveling along this route is a visual feast.
In many people's eyes,
it is the paradise of their dreams,
a place to visit once in a lifetime.
You'll regret going, but it's a pity not to,
because once you set foot on that sacred plateau land,
you'll become addicted to it and won't want to leave.
If you have the chance, take a trip to Tibet.
If possible, on the road to Tibet, I want to walk with you.
