A Travelogue Along the Sichuan-Tibet (318/317) and Yunnan-Tibet (214) Highways

Hearing the news that the Leshan Giant Buddha's toes were flooded, I felt uneasy. Our G318 journey into Tibet in August was about to begin, and I prayed for a safe trip.

Night rain fell on Chengdu. Considering my cold hadn't fully recovered and the risk of altitude sickness upon entering Tibet, I thought about staying in Chengdu to rest and prepare supplies.

I stayed in the High-tech Zone and cycled around. Everywhere I looked, buildings were under construction. The skyscrapers in the new area soared into the clouds, with very chic interiors.

Passing by the Global Center, I checked in at the Colorful Market, dubbed a 'mini Santorini'.

It had quaint, ocean-themed architecture and a fun indoor water park. In the scorching summer, I felt like jumping in too.

Inside the Global Center, there was a café that was also an internet sensation.

There were many creatively designed buildings whose names I didn't know, like the Twin Towers not far from the Global Center—another landmark.

The other side of the Twin Towers.

The Zhongshuge bookstore in Yinzuo Center was a niche spot. Unfortunately, a corporate leasing presentation was being held in the lobby, so I couldn't enter.

Yinzuo was opulent; the restroom designs on every floor trended on social media. Yinzuo had become famous because of its bathrooms.

Then I went to Louis Banquet Hall, about 4 km from Yinzuo, and saw many people taking wedding photos. I figured it was a paid photo spot. In fact, it was a luxury wedding venue.

In the evening, I visited Tiexiang Temple Water Street, two metro stops from Jiaozi Avenue. It had a vibe similar to Suzhou’s Shantang Street at night, but with more modern architecture.

Day 2 - 2020/08/25 - Chengdu to Kangding (Qixi Festival)

The G318 from Chengdu to Ya’an was under construction, so we took the highway instead. We passed through many tunnels, each about 3–10 km long, with the longest being a 30 km tunnel cluster. I marveled at the greatness of our nation’s infrastructure, as it literally bored through Erlang Mountain. The altitude climbed steadily.

We arrived in Kangding in the evening. The temperature difference between day and night was huge; in August, they already needed to turn on the underfloor heating at night.

Kangding was tiny, with just one main street. Houses lined both sides of the river, and every single one was a hotel or restaurant.

After checking online reviews, we had the local specialty for dinner—yak offal hotpot.

But history repeated itself: last time I had yak hotpot in Da Qaidam, I got an upset stomach, and it happened again this time. I decided to stop eating yak meat.

Day 3 - 2020/08/26 - Kangding to Xinduqiao to Yajiang

Today we would cross Zheduo Mountain at 4,298 meters. I wasn’t sure if I’d get altitude sickness. I had glucose, Suda oxygen tablets, and an oxygen canister. On the winding uphill road, I immediately took two Suda oxygen pills. I had no ear ringing or other symptoms and safely reached the Zheduo Mountain viewing platform. Eric was even tougher—he drove uphill and climbed the steps without any issues.

While climbing the steps, I became increasingly breathless and fainted for about a minute after squatting down. Eric panicked, pried open my eyes, pressed the philtrum, and poured glucose water into my mouth. When I opened my eyes again, I gradually felt refreshed but dared not climb any further.

Descending from Zheduo Mountain, we entered Xinduqiao. The entire road was a scenic drive, with Tibetan-style buildings and barley fields winding through the valley.

It happened to be the barley harvest season; people were working in the fields. Tibetan eateries usually only operated in the evening. We also saw harvesters here—larger barley fields were machine-harvested.

Xinduqiao town was very small, and due to road construction, it was dusty. The best photography season here is autumn. In fact, the most beautiful scenery is on the road from Zheduo Mountain to Xinduqiao.

The road to Yajiang was under repair. If we followed the navigation, we’d have to detour via G317, adding over 900 km. We asked at the inn and were told that despite construction, the G318 section from Xinduqiao to Yajiang was open as usual, and from Yajiang to Xinduqiao, traffic was diverted through a side road at Gaoersi Tunnel; otherwise, it was normal.

We arrived in Yajiang at dusk, passing many beautiful Tibetan houses on the way. The UV radiation on the plateau was intense; both our noses turned red. That night, we quickly applied face masks.

Day 4 - 2020/08/27 - Yajiang to Litang to Batang

It’s about 150 km from Yajiang to Batang, but the altitude climbs nearly 2,000 meters. The road winds uphill with steep slopes and sharp bends. You must drive carefully and never rush to overtake on curves.

Litang is called the 'City in the Sky' or 'the World’s High City', at over 4,000 meters. On the way from Yajiang to Litang, you’ll see beautiful seas of clouds. The vegetation transitions from alpine shrubs to grasslands.

There were many large trucks with trailers on G318. The road was narrow and crowded; safety mattered more than speed. Plus, yaks are the bosses—yield to them if you encounter one.

After about three hours of driving, we reached Litang. Before entering the town, Eric found a place called 'First Noodle Stop into Tibet'. The name was impressive, but the food was nothing to write home about.

It reminded me of what the innkeeper in Yajiang had said: the ingredients here (vegetables and fruits) all come from Kangding, and scarcity drives up prices. The cart in the photo was a mobile vegetable and fruit vendor; a loudspeaker would call out, and those who needed goods would come.

Litang was relatively large, with convenient food and lodging. But travelers usually didn’t dare stay overnight in this high-altitude town due to fear of altitude sickness. It’s a gateway to Daocheng Yading.

Leaving Litang westward, it’s still over 130 km to Batang at 2,500 meters. Along the way, you pass Maoya Grassland and Sister Lakes.

Online sources say the most beautiful part of G318 is between Yajiang and Batang. It was indeed beautiful. Passing Maoya Grassland, the flowers had already withered, so the scenery was similar to the rest of the road—a bit overrated.

The mountain road wound downward, and Sister Lakes suddenly appeared around a bend.

On the way to Batang, we passed several small villages, some of which had escaped poverty and developed new economies. When passing Deda Village, a villager suddenly shouted 'Tashi Delek!' I instinctively replied with the blessing. Beyond Deda, sections of G318 were under construction, with alternating one-way traffic.

A cloud overhead brought a shower that washed off the dust caked on our car from the construction zones. After over four hours, we finally reached Batang from Litang. Batang county had one main street with two gas stations and countless hotels and eateries. After days on the road, I found my nose bleeding; it was very dry here, so we had to keep water and fruit handy.

Day 5 - 2020/08/28 - Batang to Zuogong

The road this day was treacherous. The 20 km stretch from Batang to Zhubalong was under construction, full of potholes and sharp stones that could slash our tires at any moment. Because a hydropower station was being built on the Jinsha River, part of the old road would be submerged. A new road was being carved into the mountainside, with excavators and tanker trucks at work, causing traffic jams lasting over an hour. After crossing the Jinsha River Bridge, the road improved, and we entered Qamdo territory. At the Qamdo checkpoint, we had to get out to scan our ID cards and health codes. Then we officially entered the Tibetan region.

The road conditions were okay afterward. We passed Haitong Stone Forest, which was actually just a hill.

Another 50 km brought us to Markam County. It was noon, so we ate something. Sichuan cuisine dominated here; even the cucumber salad was spicy. Fortunately, it was delicious. Finally, I got to eat cucumber. From Markam, you can head south into Yunnan or continue west all the way to Lhasa. Vegetables here came from Chengdu and Yunnan; locals only grew barley. Altitude: 3,875 m.

Markam was tiny. Continuing west, we first crossed Lawu Mountain at over 4,300 meters, then descended a long slope, with scenery that had a bit of a European flair.

Then we quickly climbed again, surrounded by towering mountains and deep valleys. The Lancang River flowed through the gorge; from above, it looked like a small stream. G318 twisted and turned here, climbing the slope of Jueba Mountain to 3,800 meters. The road was steep, the wind strong, with many sharp bends. I dared not look down and was even a bit afraid of driving this section on the return trip.

Continuing on, we reached the highest point, Dongda Mountain Pass at 5,005 meters. After the pass, it was all downhill, and we reached Zuogong County in about half an hour. We stayed in the new part of Zuogong.

Day 6 - 2020/08/29 - Zuogong to Basu

We drove 200 km this day, passing Bangda, the Nujiang 72 Turns, and Duola Sacred Mountain, before arriving in Basu.

Day 7 - 2020/08/30 Basu to Bomi (Ranwu Lake, Midui Glacier, Laigu Glacier)

Ranwu Lake wasn’t pretty in the rainy season; it was quite murky. We drove over 10 km toward Zayu, where you could photograph the reflection on Ranwu Lake. It was also the road to Laigu Village and Laigu Glacier.

Suddenly, dark clouds gathered over the quiet Ranwu Lake, and rain came quickly.

Laigu Village was currently free of charge, but we saw a scenic area gate under construction. It was foreseeable that next year it would become a source of revenue for the local government.

At the foot of Laigu Glacier, Tibetans blocked the road leading up the mountain and offered horseback rides to see the glacier tongue for 100 yuan per person. Alternatively, you could hike up to the ice tongue yourself, though it was strenuous.

We arrived in Bomi in a light drizzle. Shrouded in clouds and mist, with lush vegetation and snow-capped peaks, Bomi felt like a 'Little Jiangnan' of Tibet. Bomi was the most beautiful place along our G318 journey so far. For dinner, we had the local stove-cooked chicken.

Day 8 - 2020/08/31 - Bomi to Nyingchi (Gangyun Spruce Forest Grass Lake)

In the morning, opening the window, we could see snowy mountains and bands of clouds. Staying in Bomi was truly blissful.

I saw photos of Gangyun Spruce Forest Grass Lake on Weibo and was awed. So we drove there. Off-season tickets were 50 yuan. It was about 20-plus km from Bomi to the Grass Lake.

This was Grass Lake. I flew a drone for the first time and was worried it might crash into the lake.

Day 9 - 2020/09/01 - Nyingchi to Lhasa (Niyang River)

From Nyingchi, you could drive over a hundred kilometers to see the Yarlung Tsangpo River and Namcha Barwa Peak, or along the G318 toward Lhasa, you could visit Basong Tso. We took the Lhasa-Nyingchi Expressway and reached Lhasa in five hours.

This was my second visit to Lhasa, and it didn’t feel as good as the first. The streets were congested, and parking spaces were hard to find. The overall environment was comparable to a fifth-tier city, but the cost of food and accommodation was 1–2 times that of Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, or Shenzhen. Barkhor Street closed at 8 p.m. There were Tibetan women in their 30s–40s begging for money on the street, as well as vendors chasing after tourists selling jade and prayer beads.

The Niyang River valley was also undergoing real estate development.

Lhasa wasn’t the focus of this trip; doing the 'Little Ngari' route would require more time.

Day 10 - 2020/09/02 - Lhasa to Gyantse (Yamdrok Lake, Nagarze)

The road from Lhasa to Yamdrok Lake had speed limits. There was a 59-km lakeside loop where you had to pass through in no less than two hours and ten minutes. Yamdrok Lake now charged an entrance fee, but you could avoid buying a ticket since it’s a necessary route to Shigatse. The highway skirts the lake, and the beauty of Yamdrok varies at every angle and stretch. I wouldn’t recommend spending 60 yuan on a ticket just to climb a hill for photos; it offered no special advantage.

After passing Yamdrok Lake, we basically arrived at Nagarze. Looking for accommodation in Nagarze town, we saw the best hotel but were told it was fully booked. I was surprised such a remote place could be filled—turns out a conference had booked it entirely.

After checking several unsatisfactory options, we decided to push on over 100 km to Gyantse for the night. Nagarze was beautiful and looked new, with just one main street, but accommodation offered poor value for money.

However, due to section speed monitoring, we couldn’t drive fast, so it took over three hours to reach Gyantse. Although called a city, it was actually very small. Along the way, we passed Karola Glacier. Unlike when I came in 2016, it was now fenced off and charged a fee before you could climb to the ice tongue.

It rained the whole way; wherever the clouds drifted, rain followed. We arrived in Gyantse amid thunder and lightning.

Nothing warmed the stomach like a hotpot. The high altitude here wasn’t suitable for growing vegetables, and prices were high.

Day 13 - 2020/09/03 - Gyantse to Shigatse to Ngamring

I heard that the movie Red River Valley was filmed at Gyantse Fortress. The fortress was right next to the old town, illuminated at night. When we entered the city yesterday evening, I saw it and wanted to take photos, but felt too cold after dinner, so I gave up.

Last night’s rain turned into snow on the high mountains, blanketing them white. I had hoped to see the snow this morning, but due to light drizzle, it melted as the sun rose.

On the way from Gyantse to Shigatse, we had to observe speed limits. We stopped at an ecological farm, where a melon vendor enthusiastically recommended their 'hand-torn watermelon'—so thin-skinned you could tear it apart and eat. Over the past few days, we’d been having one melon a day to stay hydrated, and my sore throat had gone. After cutting the melon, we realized that one small watermelon cost 48 yuan, and the taste was just average.

After eating, we were invited to tour the orchard. We saw locals picking strawberries and buying potted plants, but the prices weren’t cheap. The girl selling melons said locals preferred cash. You’d see ordinary-looking people pulling wads of cash to pay; rich people existed everywhere, and Tibetans were no exception.

Shigatse is known as China’s 'Barley Town', with vast fields of barley everywhere. Harvesters even ate lunch in the fields. But here, they still harvested by hand, not by machine—different from what we saw in Xinduqiao. I had assumed these flat plains would use combine harvesters.

We reached Ngamring in the evening, close to Lhatse, from where you can go to Everest Base Camp. Having been there before, I didn’t want to relive the memories of headache and shared platform beds, so we chose to see the Dagajia geothermal fountains on the G216 highway.

Day 14 - 2020/09/04 - Ngamring to Coqen to Gerze County

Just out of Ngamring, there was a lake. Setting off under the morning sun, it was beautiful. We had to cover 880 km today, so we started early, following mainly the G226 highway.

Travelogue Directory

1. Day1-2020/8/24-Arriving in Chengdu, checking out High-tech Zone hip spots

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