Nanjing to Tibet Self-Drive Day 25
July 6–7, 2020, two days, overcast then sunny
Zanda – Ali uninhabited valley – Shigatse – Lhasa, over 1,300 kilometers in total, too many checkpoints to count.
Our original destination was Namtso, but due to traffic controls on National Highway 109, we had to return to Lhasa and will set off for Namtso from Lhasa tomorrow. For these two days, we’ve been driving the whole time. Some say Tibet’s sights are on the road, and it’s truly an experience. Wherever you are, whichever road you take, beautiful scenery always accompanies you.
Last night we stayed at the Minzu Hotel in Saga. The owner told me that at this time in previous years business was excellent. Many Indian and Nepali Buddhist pilgrims would come to Ali. They were only allowed to visit sacred mountains and lakes, to make pilgrimages and circumambulations; the Chinese government has opened these areas to them, but other places remain off-limits. So many of them stayed in Saga.
After leaving the earth forest, we were still in the Ali region. There was a stretch of uninhabited zone – true to its name, very sparsely populated, few vehicles, few gas stations, but the road condition was decent and the scenery exceptionally beautiful. Passing a lake, we saw a dilapidated village in the distance. A small path led into it, and we resolutely drove down – it was a truly forgotten village. The houses were shabby, many walls made of stacked yak dung. A large dog stood at the village entrance, so we didn’t dare get out of the car; we drove around once. Behind the village was a beautiful lake.
Suddenly, we spotted a man sitting cross-legged on the ground by the lake, reciting prayers. We stopped the car. He slowly rose and walked over. It turned out to be a young man wearing a leather jacket, holding a string of prayer beads and murmuring. We opened the window and greeted him, ‘Tashi delek.’
He was very friendly and told us they are nomadic herders. They are all out grazing now and only return here in winter. The government is preparing new housing for them, but some still prefer living here. Honestly, the living environment here is very good, but the conditions are really poor.
The young man told me he was 25. The village name I couldn’t understand, and the lake behind was called ‘Gu-something-tso’ – I didn’t quite catch it either. He was alone in the village, practicing Buddhism, bowing 2,000 times a day. He looked full of energy. Thinking he might not have eaten, but we’d been on the road from Ali and had little food left. There was still one unopened pack of Anhui specialty crispy rice (guoba). I gave him that last bag. He happily took photos with us and we exchanged blessings: he wished us a safe journey, and we wished that Buddha bless him and his family.
The Ali region has these characteristics: first, high altitude, mostly above 4,500 meters, only the branch routes to Purang and Zanda are below 4,000, making them habitable; second, long distances, 1,300 kilometers from Lhasa, and you easily drive several hundred kilometers; third, stunning scenery – snow mountains, lakesides, blue skies, white clouds, landforms, historic sites... all beautiful; fourth, high prices – fuel, accommodation, food... everything expensive; fifth, many checkpoints, border permits especially needed; sixth, supporting facilities are relatively poor, but that’s understandable.
Back in Lhasa, I felt a little excited and very much at home. We went back to the sour fish restaurant and enjoyed a big pot of fish. The staff there we already knew well; the owner-lady is a shareholder of Merenwang and lived in Nanjing for five years, so she was especially hospitable. In the evening, we checked into Delin Hotel again, run by a fellow from Anhui Province, quite decent. A good rest, and tomorrow Namtso, one of the most exciting parts of the trip.
