Cycling National Highway 318 in the Pandemic Year: Editor, Why Not Tell Us Clearly Where Political Sensitivity Lies?

📍 Lhasa · 👁 794 reads

Day 0, August 8: Flew into Chengdu in the afternoon ~ The prelude begins. The Sichuan-Tibet cycling trip finally sets off amid a chorus of skepticism. On this adventure, 12 and Ultraman have gone back and forth several times, mainly about two points: the meaning of the ride and the risks involved. 12, solemn and upright, listed many lofty meanings, while Ultraman thinks he never truly voiced his deepest motive: to stockpile bragging rights for the future. I partly agree with Ultraman on that, but if you're going to make mistakes, do it while you're young. Vanity is also best indulged in youth—you can't end up like me, at my age, wanting to climb Mount Everest just to prove I'm still tough, right? As for risks, they fall into controllable and uncontrollable. With enough preparation and thoroughness, all controllable risks can be neutralized; the uncontrollable ones are no greater than walking down an ordinary street. That's 12's view, and I agree. Fortunately, Ultraman didn't exercise her one-vote veto power in the end—kudos for that. I expect this ride will be more or less as imagined: certainly not easy, but not exceedingly difficult. Just like the meaning of this Sichuan-Tibet journey, it will indeed bring some positive influence to 12's growth, but it won't fundamentally change his 'id' with one cycling trip.

Day 1, August 9: Route: Chengdu – Datang Town, Pujiang County

Departed 9 am. Checked in at Xilai Hotel in Datang Town, Pujiang County at 7 pm. Riding time: 6 hours, distance: 95 km. Consumed 13 bottles of water and drinks.

12 had planned to set off at 6:30 am, but he slept until after 8, so we only got moving at 9. Originally we hoped to reach Ya'an, but now had to scale back. Passing through Qionglai, we spotted at least a dozen distilleries large and small by the road—the only familiar name was Shuijingfang; the rest were unknown. Chinese baijiu-producing regions love to spin (fabricate) stories, but since I have no head for alcohol, I won't chase those tales. Qiong is the ancient name of a now-vanished ethnic group; Lai means mountain. The name of a disappeared people survives attached to a place—contemplating that is truly sigh-worthy.

Qionglai is the first stop on the Tea Horse Road. I suspect most of China's national highways evolved from some ancient trail or another. The deep soil remembers every footprint of history!

12 had a rough start today: couldn't wake up early, and his cycling form in the afternoon was poor, even showing signs of heatstroke. This caught him off guard. Given this situation, I'm a bit worried about the days ahead. We'll see tomorrow.

Day 2, August 10: Route: Datang Town, Pujiang County – Tianquan County

Departed 8:15 am. Checked in at Yunuo Hotel in Tianquan at 7:30 pm. Riding time: 7 hours, distance: 95 km, total so far: 190 km. Altitude: 768 m. Consumed 16 bottles of water and drinks.

12 again failed to rise early; by making deliberate noises I managed to get us out slightly earlier than yesterday. Today's trip was mainly between the county seats of Ya'an and Tianquan. We hadn't seen any notable mountains since leaving Chengdu, but today we rode almost entirely through mountains—surrounded on all sides, the view became almost oppressive. How can there be any 'never tire of looking'? Midway, a tunnel was closed for repairs, so we had no choice but to go over a mountain. The climb was truly 'refreshing'! The descent was pure bliss. But really, this was just an appetizer—the real treats are still to come.

Ya'an has a nice ring to its name; the 'ya' reportedly comes from its ancient designation as Ya Prefecture. Near Ya'an flows the Qingyi River, a tributary of the Dadu River, which is itself a tributary of the Yangtze. The name Qingyi originates from the ancient Qingyi Qiang kingdom, whose people were fond of wearing blue clothes—hence the name. I thought there'd be another cliché story, but there you have it. A kingdom vanished, but its name survives attached to a landscape. The covered bridge over the Qingyi River in the picture looks charming.

Today we passed through a tunnel. It was very narrow with heavy traffic; when two trucks met, they almost scraped against you. That was extremely dangerous, so I decisively moved to the higher walkway on the side—those platforms built for pipes and cables, covered with concrete slabs. Cumbersome but much safer.

12's condition was okay today, but mine seemed even better! Originally, we both worried I'd slow him down; now it's unclear who's holding whom back!

Covered bridge over the Qingyi River

Mountains like these will be the enduring theme of this journey

Day 3, August 11: Route: Tianquan County – Xingou Town

Departed 9:30 am. Checked in at Xingou's First Guesthouse at 7:30 pm. Riding time: 4.5 hours, distance: 48 km, total: 238 km. Altitude: 1,560 m. Consumed 7 bottles of water and drinks.

Last night there was heavy rain in Tianquan; today we encountered landslides and finally saw other cyclists—mostly motorcyclists, with just five or six bicyclists. Among them, a Sichuan cyclist around 40 was on his second trip into Tibet, and a new junior-year student from Fudan University. Hearing 'Fudan,' 12 seemed a bit stirred. I hope he can look around and see that beyond every summit there is yet a higher one, that there are always people out there better than you. Every road has been walked by someone; every road, you must walk yourself. Different roads offer different scenery—no need to fixate on just one.

It started raining again after 4 pm. Today's difficulties exceeded expectations: flash floods, landslides, winding endlessly around the mountains. We encountered four landslides along the way.

Today and tomorrow we'll be crossing Erlang Mountain.

A landslide blocked the path.

We had to carry our bikes across—four times in all.

Day 4, August 12: Route: Xingou Town – Luding

Departed 8:50 am. Checked in at Luding at 4:20 pm. Riding time: 5 hours, distance: 54 km, total: 292 km. Altitude at lodging: 1,321 m; highest point en route: 2,295 m. Consumed 5 bottles of water and drinks.

Today we climbed over Erlang Mountain heading to Luding. Erlang is one of the most famous mountains on the Sichuan-Tibet route and the first major mountain cyclists must conquer. The first 20 km were all uphill; the rest almost entirely downhill. In between, we passed through the Erlang Mountain Tunnel, over 4 km long and once the longest tunnel in Asia.

I think Erlang Mountain's scenery is on par with other renowned peaks, but it suffers from an unlucky location. If it were transplanted to the plains of northern Jiangsu, its prestige would skyrocket. Well, are the noble and the base born predestined? The world fundamentally lacks absolute fairness.

Luding Bridge was built and named during the Kangxi period; when a county was established, it took the bridge's name. I first learned the character '湍' (torrent) from the text 'Capturing Luding Bridge by Storm,' but up close, it was different from my imagination: the river surface was fairly broad, not very far below the bridge, and not the raging torrent I'd pictured. Using 'torrent' almost feels a bit insincere now. Perhaps recent upstream floods have altered it, or perhaps literary exaggeration planted thrilling images in my mind.

Luding town is bustling, yet its space is extremely confined, making it feel tightly packed and full of character. Unlike flat plains where you can spread out like a pancake—the pancake gets bigger, but its flavor grows thinner.

Erlang Mountain shrouded in cloud and mist

Erlang Mountain Tunnel, longest in Asia

'大渡' refers to the Dadu River

Day 5, August 13: Route: Luding – Kangding

Departed 5:50 am. Checked in at Kangding at 5:50 pm. Riding time: 6.5 hours, distance: 56 km, total: 348 km. Altitude at lodging: 2,570 m; highest point: 2,570 m. Consumed 10 bottles of water and drinks.

The innkeeper had warned that a 20 km section of National Highway 318 ahead was under construction and would close before 7 am, so we had to rise early willy-nilly.

Today was all uphill, following the Dadu River. We even saw a water burial site, which sent a subtle shiver through me.

Distance reveals a horse's strength, uphill reveals a rider's skill. I'd thought my ability was on par with 12's, but on the climbs I was exposed—pushing the bike most of the time, pedaling in short bursts, snail-like. 12 also changed notably: before, he'd ask me to buy water or order food; today, with me lagging far behind, I let him go ahead. Around 2 pm he found a roadside eatery, ordered, and waited over 40 minutes for me.

The sun ready to emerge

Surging Dadu River. I asked: Oh waters, why such haste? The waters replied: I'll merge with rivers and embrace the sea. Very well—you take your river's course, I'll walk my life's path!

Here the Dadu River is relatively calm. The government even built a leisure square, a rarity in mountainous areas.

Day 6, August 14: Route: Kangding – Parking lot near Zheduo Mountain Pass

Departed 8:30 am. Stopped at a parking area 4 km from the pass at 5:40 pm. Riding time: 6.5 hours, distance: 27 km, total: 375 km. Altitude at lodging: 4,050 m; highest point: 4,050 m.

Today was obviously a painful one. All uphill yesterday, all uphill today—the difference being the high altitude made pedaling nearly impossible. Most of the time I pushed, at a pace of about 3 km per hour. 12 rode ahead looking quite relaxed. Only later did I realize I'd already started suffering from altitude sickness. About 5 km from the pass, it suddenly rained—mountain rain chills you to the bone. 12 was waiting for me at a parking area ahead, but my rain jacket was in his bag, and I was freezing, my hands and feet numb, trembling. By the time I struggled to the parking lot, I was rambling incoherently. Seeing my state, 12, who had found lodging right there, wisely decided not to push on. In retrospect, the right call. He ordered hot-and-sour noodles for me, but I had zero appetite; I forced down a few bites and collapsed into bed. Headache, chills, slight nausea—I thought I'd caught a cold from the rain. I slept poorly all night, but by next morning felt much better and realized it wasn't a cold. Later I found out this was classic altitude sickness: headache, breathlessness, loss of appetite. I'd been convinced I'd never get AMS, or at most only very mild.

What is life? Poetry? The distant horizon? When every single step requires your full strength just to move forward, who can still think of poetry and faraway places? At times when I literally couldn't lift a leg, I imagined myself a stubborn donkey, with a few blades of grass dangling ahead, each step bringing me closer to that grass. So don't play the lute to a cow, or recite poems to a donkey!

Zheduo Mountain: the road spiraled up like this.

Zheduo Mountain truly lives up to its name (Zheduo = 'tortuous, twisted').

Day 7, August 15: Route: Parking lot near Zheduo Pass – Bajiaolou Village, Yajiang County

Departed 8:30 am. Checked in at Yajiang Longzhu Hotel at 8:30 pm. Riding time: 8.5 hours, distance: 96 km, total: 471 km. Altitude at lodging: 2,630 m; highest point: 4,298 m.

Woke up feeling tolerable. There were still over 4 km to Zheduo Pass. I tried riding for a bit but couldn't; only pushing worked. Headache, shortness of breath—I still didn't connect it to AMS. After the pass, it was downhill all the way, no major problem.

At the pass, 12 once again basked in others' compliments, and someone even gave him water and drinks. I hope he can weigh the real value and weight of such 'praise.'

Today we passed through Xinduqiao, dubbed 'a photographer's paradise' for its picture-postcard scenery.

We'd planned to reach Yajiang County seat tonight, but by 8 pm darkness was falling and rain began, so we stopped at a town earlier. Just as I sat down to eat, I felt a strong appetite, but minutes later I suddenly felt awful, appetite gone. I hurried back to my room to lie down; over half an hour later, I felt much better. Only at that moment did it hit me: could this be altitude sickness? A quick check online confirmed it. So my humble body really wasn't up to much! I wondered quietly: with such a long road ahead, what to do? Higher elevations, more climbs awaited! I was mentally prepared to hitch a vehicle if needed.

Yalong River is the largest tributary of the Jinsha River.

These clouds feel close enough to brush your scalp.

Finally, a road sign for Lhasa! Still 1,670 km to go!

Day 8, August 16: Route: Bajiaolou Village, Yajiang County – Xiangkezong Village

Departed 10:50 am. Checked in at Three Sisters Inn in Xiangkezong, Yajiang at 7 pm. Riding time: 5.5 hours, distance: 37 km, total: 508 km. Altitude at lodging: 3,585 m; highest point: 3,585 m.

We set off very late today. I wasn't in the mood to rush, and 12 seemed exhausted too.

Lunch in Yajiang town, which is built against the mountains as well. Plenty of restaurants, but business was poor—likely the pandemic's effect.

Leaving Yajiang meant continuous climbing. Knowing now I had AMS, my heart fluttered with dread. In reality, I pushed most of the way—couldn't really pedal. Covered only 37 km all day. At dinner, again no appetite. I felt I was reaching my limit, and 12 seemed to sense it too. Looking at his pre-planned itinerary offered no spark of hope; the only thing to do was take it step by step.

Yajiang County seat looks like this—affected by the pandemic, a forlorn atmosphere.

Finally a road marker with a number below '3'! Once we see those under '4,' there's real hope.

Day 9, August 17: Route: Xiangkezong Village – Meiduo Service Area

Departed 7:40 am. Checked in at Meiduo Service Area at 3 pm. Riding time: 4.5 hours, distance: 27 km, total: 535 km. Altitude at lodging: 4,282 m; highest point: 4,282 m.

We got an early start because today's riding was extremely tough: we'd cross Jianziwan Mountain, all at high altitude, about 80 km total. From the get-go, a steep climb; I still had AMS and could only push. The weather was overcast; all day we were wrapped in cloud and mist. After passing the Jianziwan Tunnel, rain began and intensified. Worse, there's no accommodation along this stretch, and with more than 50 km to our planned stop, plus my AMS, we might not arrive before midnight. The rain was so heavy my shoes were soaked. We saw some Tibetan houses by the road but all empty. Up here, temperatures were low and the rain freezing. Both 12 and I were nearly in despair. We had no choice but to press on. Perhaps ten minutes later, we spotted a brand-new service area by the road. We ducked inside to escape the rain and asked—yes, they had lodging! Without hesitation we decided to stay. Heaven never seals all paths, indeed! 12 was astonished because his guidebook said there was nowhere to stay along this section; we figured this place was newly built. In the room, the quilt still had its tags attached—we must be among the first guests. As it turned out, our decision was wise. Rain continued through the night, even turning to snow.

Now it seemed 3,500 meters might be my threshold. To cope with AMS and distract myself, I spent the ride pondering the meaning of life. I think once you're past forty, you can—perhaps even must—start contemplating this question. By then you've experienced the major desires: carnal pleasures, spiritual love, family joys. Only from a mountaintop, looking back over the path travelled, can you offer guidance to those coming after. Clearly, contemplating life demands peak brain power. Mine wasn't up to it; I was just thinking, thinking, thinking, thinking, thinking—can I survive this altitude sickness?!

This is the famous 'Heaven's Road 18 Bends.' Spiral after spiral uphill at over 4,000 m altitude; AMS hit hard, so I pushed.

Surrounded by clouds and mist, where is the end?

Day 10, August 18: Route: Meiduo Service Area – Honglong Township

Departed 9:50 am. Checked in at a Tibetan family's home in Honglong at 7 pm. Riding time: 7 hours, distance: 57 km, total: 592 km. Altitude at lodging: 4,100 m; highest point: 4,668 m.

Got up late. Opening the window, we saw last night's snow still falling. After a breakfast of instant noodles in the drifting snow, with no sign of clearing, we decided to set off anyway—snow is better than rain. Fortunately, the weather turned fair in the afternoon. Altitude sickness persisted but didn't worsen, thankfully. In the evening we stayed at a Tibetan guesthouse; the hosts were very warm. Butter tea mixed with milk went down comfortably, and the food was good and cheap. At the lodging we met four other cyclists.

Suddenly, overnight, the ground turned white

On this stone tablet, the inscription quotes the Sixth Dalai Lama's famous love poem, which reminds me of Emperor Li Yu. Everything requires the right specialty, doesn't it?

Only about one-third of the journey done.

Day 11, August 19: Route: Honglong Township – Heni

Departed 9:10 am. Checked in at Suobo Uncle's place in Heni at 8 pm. Riding time: 8 hours, distance: 93 km, total: 685 km. Altitude at lodging: 4,200 m; highest point: 4,400 m.

Today my altitude sickness was almost gone; my spirits much improved. Not sure if it was the butter tea and milk.

At the guesthouse we met an unusual man, around 30, with mild speech, who had been walking on foot all the way from his home in Jiangsu for three years. Surprised, I exclaimed: 'Your experience would definitely go viral online!' He revealed an almost imperceptible look of disdain and said, 'I'm not someone who likes to show off.' I knew I'd offended him, so I asked: 'What's your plan after reaching Lhasa?' He said after Lhasa he'd head to Xinjiang, Inner Mongolia, Heilongjiang, then Russia. He added, 'But who knows for sure—I take it one step at a time.' I didn't ask more. I was certain he wasn't walking just to attract attention; I was sure he was grappling with some deep trouble, not of life or body but of the spirit. I almost wanted to tell him, 'Brother, once you've left and found your answer, you can go home.' But in the end I didn't. I felt anything I said would be superfluous. His problem, though personal, is surely a problem for all of us, and his depth of thinking on it far exceeds you or me. The question of life is not something easily pondered by ordinary folk.

The road stretches long and far; I'll just keep moving forward.

Blue sky and white clouds were constant companions

Litang, the 'world's high city.' Its county seat has an even stronger Tibetan atmosphere.

Day 12, August 20: Route: Heni – Batang

Departed 8:30 am. Checked in at Xiaqiong Xiangrui Hotel in Batang at 8 pm. Riding time: 9 hours, distance: 121 km, total: 806 km. Altitude at lodging: 2,580 m; highest point: 4,685 m.

The first half today was a gentle climb, which I thought would be easy, but altitude sickness hit right from the start. No choice but to push—1 km took 26 minutes. A motorcyclist wanted to greet me but couldn't wait because I was so slow; chatting with 12 up ahead, they discovered they were both from the same hometown and lived in communities diagonally opposite! During the second half, descending rapidly, 12 experienced 'altitude trance' (drowsiness from sudden oxygen increase).

In the evening we stayed in Batang, situated by the Jinsha River; it looked quite prosperous. For dinner we ordered three dishes that hit the spot perfectly!

The whole way: blue sky, white clouds. 12 was ecstatic. For this old fellow, the sky is still the sky, the clouds still clouds. These skies and clouds are childhood memories; it's just that society's 'development' has made them rare, so youngsters like 12 marvel while we older ones take them in stride.

Blue sky, white clouds—crisp and refreshing

We even caught a glimpse of snowy peaks

Gentle Twin Lakes

At this spot we unexpectedly met a motorcyclist who lives diagonally opposite our own neighborhood—truly, strangers meet by chance anywhere under the sun!

Day 13, August 21: Route: Batang – Near Highway Maintenance Squad 6 on National Route 318 in Markam

Departed 9:50 am. Checked in at a Tibetan family's home by the road at 10 pm. Riding time: 8.5 hours, distance: 93 km, total: 899 km. Altitude at lodging: 3,595 m; highest point: 3,595 m.

Today I felt good, probably because the elevation didn't increase. We rode along the Jinsha River; most sections were under repair, and we waited over half an hour at one point. At noon we crossed the Jinsha River Bridge (a temporary one; the main bridge was under construction) and officially stepped onto Tibetan soil. Traffic thinned right out.

We had planned to reach Markam County today, but because of roadworks, the backup lodging was at Haitong Military Depot. To our dismay, when we arrived after dark, that place had been demolished—no accommodation. Checkpoint staff said the nearest lodging was in Markam. If true, that was bad news, because the road ahead was all uphill, and if my AMS flared again, we'd crawl. Luckily, the restaurant owner gave us a tip: a Tibetan family about 7–8 km farther ran a guesthouse. After dinner, the sky was completely dark. In the inky blackness, the stars were brilliant—12 got incredibly excited. The air quality up here and lack of light pollution made it perfect for stargazing; a pity we had no binoculars, only our naked eyes. Meanwhile, 3,500 m truly seemed my limit; altitude sickness returned. I had no choice but to grit my teeth and push on. After 7–8 km, no guesthouse. We stopped at a Tibetan home, but they barely spoke Chinese. Using gestures, we indicated we needed a place to sleep; the man offered his sofa. It didn't feel right, so we left. Then we met his child, who said there was a large house ahead that could lodge us, but when asked how far, the child couldn't say. A glimmer of hope renewed, we trudged on about 2 km and actually found it by the roadside—heaven helped us!

The upper Jinsha River runs clear; here, after merging with another tributary, it turns this golden hue. The Jinsha River forms the boundary between Sichuan and Tibet. Yangtze, remember your original name is Jinsha, and your infant name is Tuotuo River!

Day 14, August 22: Route: Near Highway Maintenance Squad 6 on National Route 318 in Markam – Markam

Departed 10 am. Checked in at Markam at 3:20 pm. Riding time: 2.5 hours, distance: 14.5 km, total: 913.5 km. Altitude at lodging: 3,795 m; highest point: 4,150 m.

I'm now certain my AMS symptoms follow this sequence: breathlessness, headache, loss of appetite, nausea, vomiting. Currently the worst are headache and lack of appetite. They say the average person adapts to altitude in about a week; I still can't say whether I will, because some people never do.

Because of AMS, I pushed almost the entire way; luckily it was only just over 10 km to the pass. 12 also had some physical trouble today, resembling hypoglycemia, so we decided to rest half a day in Markam. Today's physical state forced me to once again consider: can I really finish this ride?

In the distance: Zongla Mountain Pass, altitude 4,150 m.

Day 15, August 23: Route: Markam – Dengba Village

Departed 8:30 am. Checked in at Dengba Village at 8:20 pm. Riding time: 10 hours, distance: 88 km, total: 1,001.5 km. Altitude at lodging: 3,660 m; highest point: 4,376 m.

To make up for lost time yesterday, 12 had wanted to leave at 7, but we still didn't depart until 8. Plans are ever-changing—almost 12's standard operating procedure. Hope he can break this bad habit soon.

I did well today: I pushed not a single meter, even at high altitude early on. Fingers crossed this is a good sign. We originally planned to stop at Rongxu Military Depot tonight, but because it got dark, we stayed in Dengba Village. At dinner we saw what seemed like an entire family traveling together; later we learned they weren't.

The first mountain pass conquered: Lawu Mountain

Day 16, August 24: Route: Dengba Village – Rongxu Military Depot

Departed 8 am. Checked in at Rongxu Military Depot at 3:20 pm. Riding time: 4.5 hours, distance: 31 km, total: 1,032.5 km. Altitude at lodging: 4,179 m; highest point: 4,179 m.

12 still can't manage even a slightly earlier start; he napped again along the way. Around 11 we reached Rongxu and saw a familiar-looking old man sitting inside. We recognized each other from last night's dinner. Turns out he's been walking on foot from Chengdu to Tibet. The mother-daughter pair last night—the mother in her 30s, little girl 5 or 6—they're cycling, and he's looking after them. We left at 8, yet he, on foot, arrived before us. Incredible. Further chat revealed he's actually an internet-famous figure: a few years ago he walked from Shantou to Shandong. A quick search later gave us his name—Lin Jingdong!

After lunch we rode about 7–8 km; the sky darkened, a gale blew up, soon followed by lightning and thunder. Then a car coming the other way kindly warned us it was snowing over the mountain ahead. 12 worried there was no lodging between here and Zogang; if rain or snow continued, we'd be in trouble. So we decided to return to Rongxu. But as soon as we got back, the weather cleared—much to 12's frustration.

Mr. Lin, the internet-famous walking enthusiast

Day 17, August 25: Route: Rongxu Military Depot – Zogang

Departed 8:15 am. Checked in at Chengdu Hotel in Zogang at 5 pm. Riding time: 6.5 hours, distance: 60 km, total: 1,092.5 km. Altitude at lodging: 3,780 m; highest point: 5,130 m.

By the end of today, we'd passed the halfway mark. AMS seemed gone; confidence grew.

Dongda Mountain Pass, the highest point of this trip. Its altitude approaches that of Everest Base Camp; the air here is said to contain only 30% of sea-level oxygen. I handled it without major issues—to my delight. Dongda Mountain is also a geographical marker: east of it is the Pacific watershed, west, the Indian Ocean. As 12 put it: splash a basin of water east from the summit and it eventually reaches the Pacific; splash it west and it flows to the Indian Ocean.

Dongda Mountain Pass, our highest altitude at 5,130 m

Day 18, August 26: Route: Zogang – Bangda Town

Departed 10 am. Checked in at Xinyuan Hotel, Bangda Town at 8:20 pm. Riding time: 8 hours, distance: 108.5 km, total: 1,201 km. Altitude at lodging: 4,125 m; highest point: 4,125 m.

12's daily schedule clashes with optimal cycling times; he still can't overcome his late-to-bed, late-to-rise habit. Most people think it's easy, and 12 always tells himself tomorrow he'll wake up early—but nine times out of ten, the words are empty. The body is honest. Setting an easy goal verbally is simple; truly putting it into practice requires a method and, honestly, tremendous willpower.

Today's riding was at high altitude with a gentle uphill all the way; I thought it'd be tough, but it turned out much easier than expected.

These days we occasionally come across people live-streaming their walks. You have to admit, these kids are really putting themselves out there.

The Yuqu River alongside was much gentler

The plateau at dusk

Day 19, August 27: Route: Bangda Town – Baxoi

Departed 10:15 am. Checked in at Yunjian Hotel, Baxoi at 9:10 pm. Riding time: 8.8 hours, distance: 97 km, total: 1,298 km. Altitude at lodging: 3,290 m; highest point: 4,658 m.

Today's main difficulty was the first 10+ km climb, followed by a sharp descent. We witnessed the famous '72 Turns of the Nujiang'—also called '99 Bends.' The real experience is a hundred times more thrilling than photos: bend after endless bend, it felt like far more than 99! In just over 30 km, altitude dropped more than 2,000 m; soon 12 got that trance from too much oxygen.

After crossing Yela Mountain, we rode along the Nujiang (Salween River). In the evening we lodged in Baxoi County. Afraid of aggravating AMS, I'd not dared shower for days. With today's lower altitude, I indulged in a thorough scrub—felt furious clean!

Typical high-plateau scenery

At Yela Mountain Pass, that magical rock arch has no lack of legends

The famous 'Nu River 72 Turns,' a.k.a. '99 Bends'

Clouds almost within reach

12 succumbed to an 'oxygen trance,' taking a brief rest

The Sichuan-Tibet Highway began construction in 1950; the northern route took less than five years, the southern nearly 20—speaking volumes about the difficulty and cost.

Day 20, August 28: Route: Baxoi – Ranwu Town

Departed 7:30 am. Checked in at Xuehu (Snow Lake) Hotel, Ranwu at 9:40 pm. Riding time: 10 hours 20 min, distance: 94 km, total: 1,392 km. Altitude at lodging: 3,995 m; highest point: 4,475 m.

12 got up early today, but the result of an early start was him pedaling a bit then napping repeatedly, so the early rise was pointless. Today was tougher: the first 70 km were all uphill. Beyond the pass, the sun had set, and although it was generally downhill, the road undulated, so after the pass we rode entirely in the dark.

Blue sky and white clouds everywhere

Tourist graffiti in a roadside restaurant

Anjula Mountain Pass under the twilight moon

Day 21, August 29: Route: Ranwu Town – Bomi County

Departed 9:30 am. Checked in at Xidu Hotel, Bomi County at 7:40 pm. Riding time: 8 hr 20 min, distance: 136 km, total: 1,528 km. Altitude at lodging: 2,720 m, downhill.

Today a young fellow from Shenzhen rode along with us. He's also a fresh high-school graduate this year, but he came on this trip alone—clearly his parents are bolder than I. With an 'outsider' present, our efficiency improved considerably, and we easily knocked off what originally was a two-day plan. However, the young guy took a spill midday, so he didn't continue with us the next day; still, it shouldn't be serious.

We also encountered two self-driving off-road vehicles, about ten people in total, who'd brought a gas stove, gas tank, pots, pans, oil, salt, sauce, vinegar—bustling about by the roadside. Ah, it made us rural folk sigh: 'City people really know how to have fun!'

The Xidu Hotel we checked into was recently taken over by a 25-year-old retired soldier from Zhanjiang, himself a cycling enthusiast. Here we met eight or nine other cyclists.

'The sky high, road far—I travel alone'

Ranwu Lake, quite famous, hugs the highway all along

Day 22, August 30: Bomi County – Tongmai

Departed 9:50 am. Checked in at Tongmai Hotel at 6:40 pm. Riding time: 6 hr 30 min, distance: 93 km, total: 1,621 km. Altitude at lodging: 2,200 m, downhill.

Very relaxed riding today. We saw the 4000 km milestone and a bridge with a strong historic feel.

Finally broke past 4,000 km! Victory in sight!

Day 23, August 31: Route: Tongmai – Lunang

Departed 10 am. Checked in at Yuanzhang (Dean) Inn, Lunang at 8:30 pm. Riding time: 7 hours, distance: 72 km, total: 1,693 km. Altitude at lodging: 3,385 m; highest point: 3,385 m.

Part of today's route was the so-called 'Tongmai Death Zone,' referring to the stretch from Tongmai Bridge to Pailong, once notorious for fatal accidents. But that's all in the past now. Why? China the infrastructure maniac—what's a bridge or tunnel to it? So the Tongmai Death Zone has become just a tourist gimmick.

Today we met a family of six of Aba Tibetan origin walking all the way to Lhasa, with a style reminiscent of a beggars' guild!

In the evening, staying in Lunang, we encountered over ten cyclists. Lunang bills itself as an international tourist town, and it even has a European flair. Plus, it's arguably the largest town along the route, stretching about 5 km along Highway 318, boasting several five-star hotels. But according to a restaurant owner, tourist numbers had dropped 80% this year; many hotels and eateries were shuttered.

Encountered an Aba Tibetan family—grandparents and kids—preparing their midday meal right by the roadside.

These are their worldly goods for the journey

Closer, closer!

Our tire got punctured after all

Day 24, September 1: Route: Lunang – Nyingchi

Departed 9 am. Checked in at Yujiang Nan Hotel, Nyingchi at 6:30 pm. Riding time: 7 hours, distance: 76 km, total: 1,769 km. Altitude at lodging: 2,800 m; highest point: 4,720 m.

Today we crossed Serkhyim La Mountain, not too difficult. Along the way, we noticed that mountain rainclouds are brutally straightforward: if dark clouds pass overhead, they'll sprinkle rain on you without fail—unlike back home where clouds vacillate deceitfully.

In the evening we reached Nyingchi, a large and bustling city. We'd eaten Sichuan food all along the route; 12 discovered a KFC had actually opened here, so we promptly hit KFC.

The sky holds not just white clouds, but dark ones too.

Day 25, September 2: Route: Nyingchi – Gongbo'gyamda

Departed 9:30 am. Checked in at Yuzhou Hotel, Gongbo'gyamda at 8:10 pm. Riding time: 8 hours, distance: 135 km, total: 1,904 km. Altitude at lodging: 3,440 m; highest point: 3,440 m.

Today's 135 km, all on a gentle upgrade, looked daunting, but in fact I felt not just super good but super fantastic! Every rest break was suggested by 12; I felt no fatigue at all from beginning to end, even after arriving, still raring to go. I honestly don't know why.

We also met a young walker carrying a flag that read 'On Foot from Tieling to Lhasa.' Lean and wiry, alternating jogging and walking, he seemed the real deal—a genuine long-distance hiker.

White clouds cluster around green mountains; the mountains say, 'I am happy.'

Sun rises, clouds lift; the mountains ask, 'When will you come home?' The clouds reply, 'Deep in the night I will surely return.' A pool of emerald water below, hearing this, says angrily, 'Look, all mountains are the same!'

Arriving in Gongbo'gyamda County at dusk

Day 26, September 3: Route: Gongbo'gyamda – Songduo Town

Departed 9:40 am. Checked in at Yangmen Inn, Songduo Town at 8:40 pm. Riding time: 8.5 hours, distance: 102 km, total: 2,006 km. Altitude at lodging: 4,285 m; highest point: 4,285 m.

Today's start was late as always; we didn't reach our destination, Songduo, until after dark. Shockingly, this town had only one place taking lodgers—the rest likely had closed due to lack of business. Imagine how much revenue the entire tourism industry has lost to this pandemic! Today's riding was tougher than yesterday's but still far easier than the early days. Tomorrow, 12 has decided to combine the last two days into one; I'm full of confidence!

Green mountains, blue water, blue sky, white clouds

Such scenes will become memories

Day 27, September 4: Route: Songduo Town – Lhasa

Departed 7 am. Checked in at Jinchen Hotel, Lhasa at 10:55 pm. Riding time: 12 hr 20 min, distance: 182 km, total: 2,188 km. Altitude at lodging: 3,650 m; highest point: 5,013 m.

Today would complete the entire journey, so I forced 12 to set off at 7 am sharp. Though he again caught a nap in the morning, the final outcome was a full success.

The main challenge today was crossing Mira Mountain. I'd thought I could ride all the way up, but in the end I couldn't hold out—altitude was too high, and symptoms returned, so I pushed for about 3–4 km. After the pass, it was downhill all the way.

We rolled into Lhasa just before 11 pm. I checked the cycle computer: 2,188.8 km—a magical number!

Sunrise view at 8:15 am

Sun, blue sky, white clouds—goodbye!

Our one and only Tibetan meal

Night view of the bridge over Lhasa River

The cycle computer frozen at 2,188.8 km

Total time frozen at 195 hours 46 minutes (max display 99:59)

Epilogue: Scenes along the Qinghai-Tibet Railway