Life Is but a Journey – Heading West to Lhasa, Chasing Freedom at Namtso, Feeling Purified at the Potala Palace

📍 Lhasa · 👁 7628 reads · ❤️ 35 likes

A trip you owe yourself will, one day, be repaid. Each year, visit at least one place you've never been. It's not about the destination, but the people and moments along the way, and those beautiful memories and landscapes. This time I finally mustered the courage to come to the holy land of my dreams—Lhasa.

This trip was completely unplanned. I was tired of my job at the time and wanted a change of scenery, so I embarked on a journey with just a whim. Right up until boarding the plane, I was still marveling at my own impulsiveness and boldness, carrying only a yearning for Lhasa, without any itinerary, I set off. Lhasa truly holds a mysterious power. Here, everything seems to be smoothed over. Gazing at the sky and snow-capped mountains, it's tranquil and timeless.

Traveling alone, I chose a youth hostel for my stay, which was quite novel. I had never stayed in a hostel before, always in hotels. Without a plan, I figured meeting friends would be better in a hostel. So I picked a popular one online—reviews said Puncuo Kangsang Youth Hostel had a great atmosphere, and it didn't disappoint. Small groups of travelers shared tales of their journeys in the lobby, and in the evening a young man sang songs. My two days there coincided with the Butter Lamp Festival, and the hostel organized activities—a real blessing for a solo traveler like me. During those days, I met a few companions: Yaya, Mengmeng, Douzi, and Little Lingdang—these are the most cherished memories of the trip.

As for the itinerary, since I hadn't planned anything, the hostel had a tour desk and organized carpooling. I ended up joining Yaya and the others on a route from the tour desk. I thought it was decent—you can arrange things to suit your needs, whether joining a group or carpooling independently.

DAY 1: Lhasa—Potala Palace—Barkhor Street

First stop in Lhasa is of course the sacred Potala Palace. It's not only about viewing the vast collection of historical relics and admiring the splendid architectural art of the Tibetan people, but also about experiencing a soul-cleansing in that holy atmosphere. Only at the Potala do you realize how pale and inadequate written descriptions often are, just as I still can't find words to describe its grandeur and richness. The red and white buildings, not as vast as the Forbidden City, yet possess a unique, far-reaching tranquility.

As an archaeology enthusiast, I couldn't miss the vast historical artifacts preserved here: stupas, statues, murals, thangka paintings, scriptures, and also the golden albums, jade albums, golden seals, as well as gold and silverware, jadeware, porcelain, enamel, and exquisite crafts bestowed by Ming and Qing emperors, reflecting the historical ties between the local Tibetan government and the central authority.

Particularly striking are the eight stupas of successive Dalai Lamas from the Fifth onwards, all resplendent in gold and adorned with a dazzling array of gems—truly a palace of art, each piece breathtaking!

After the Potala Palace, Barkhor Street is a must. The circumambulation route around the central Sakyamuni Hall of Jokhang Temple is called "Nangkhor," around the outer wall is "Barkhor," and the streets radiating outward form Barkhor Street, also known as Bajiao Street.

Extending outward with Jokhang Temple at the center, taking in Potala Palace, Chakpori Hill, and Ramoche Temple creates a larger circuit called "Lingkhor." These three concentric rings are the routes Tibetans follow for their kora rituals. Originally, Barkhor Street was simply the kora path around Jokhang Temple, known by Tibetans as the "Sacred Way." People walk round and round, holding prayer beads, wearing hats and traditional Tibetan robes, silently or spinning glowing prayer wheels.

Perhaps we can't fully understand the devotees' sacred acts of prostration, but we can never ignore their pious hearts. In Tibet, there is a faith called a lifetime of pilgrimage.

DAY 2: Jokhang Temple + Sera Monastery + Drepung Monastery

Jokhang Temple: Entering through the main gate, you step into a courtyard with rows of butter lamps on the east side, kept perpetually burning by the faithful who add butter daily. Behind them is the main entrance to the temple's central hall. To the left stands Guru Rinpoche, founder of the Nyingma school, and to the right Jampa Buddha, the future Buddha Maitreya. On the right wall are murals depicting the temple's founding, mainly showing the Potala Palace as it was in the 7th century and the lake-filling that preceded construction.

Moving clockwise, you come to the chapel enshrining Je Tsongkhapa, founder of the Gelug school, and his eight disciples. Continue clockwise past the Kinnara Hall and Dragon King Hall, and behind hundreds of butter lamps lies the famous "Jokhang" Hall—the heart and essence of the temple. At its center is the main assembly hall where monks chant and practice daily. Surrounding it are many smaller chapels; the unmissable one is the Sakyamuni Buddha Hall at the very core, housing the 12-year-old life-size golden statue of Buddha brought by Princess Wencheng. This is the soul of Jokhang Temple, the pilgrimage destination for the faithful.

Stairs from the courtyard lead to the second and third floors. The second floor holds the Dharma King Hall, enshrining King Songtsen Gampo, Princess Wencheng, and Princess Bhrikuti, as well as the Palden Lhamo protective deity hall. The wide balcony offers a distant view of the Potala Palace, perfect for photos. The golden roof on the third floor is another highlight, though it is rarely open. If you're lucky enough to climb up, the four gleaming golden roofs are a stunning sight.

Sera Monastery: Renowned for its debates, a highlight of any visit. The debating sessions take place in the northern courtyard daily from 3 pm to 5 pm (note the time), except Sundays and special holidays. Monks sit on the ground while one stands opposite, debating scriptures with dramatic gestures—fascinating to watch.

You can explore the monastery's halls on foot; the perimeter is about 1.5 km. Sera Monastery's layout centers around the Tsokchen Assembly Hall, with other buildings scattered around. Unlike Han Buddhist temples, it isn't symmetrically arranged but cascades along the mountainside. Notable halls include the Hayagriva Hall and the Tsokchen Hall, worth focusing on.

Sera's back mountain is quite high; the summit offers a panoramic view of Lhasa, a paradise for hikers. The relative height is about 500 meters, taking roughly 4 hours to climb—requiring decent stamina. Yet just a short ascent already opens up wide views over Lhasa. Those with low energy or at risk of altitude sickness should skip the summit. Given my own fitness, I didn't make it, leaving a reason to return to Lhasa.

Drepung Monastery: Nestled in a valley on Lhasa's western outskirts, this architectural complex is massive. White houses and red temples blanket the hillside, resembling a giant pile of rice from afar—stunning photos can be taken from the mountainside. It holds a high position in the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism, with grandiose, gilded interiors, many beautiful treasures, and monks' debates to observe.

Entering through the front gate, you can see the monastery embraced by hills on three sides, facing the Lhasa River and the plain beyond. Buildings rise layer upon layer, like a white mountain city. Inside, you can closely view Tibetan-style architecture: white-walled buildings dotted with golden-roofed, red-trimmed halls full of Tibetan character. Unlike Han temples, the layout isn't symmetrical but scattered along the mountain; follow a clockwise route to see everything. The total perimeter is about 2 km, an easy walk, and circumambulating clockwise is a way to accumulate merit.

Inside, each hall is magnificent. The main assembly hall has 183 pillars, each exquisitely carved. The statues are dignified and numerous, and the monastery houses exquisite thangkas, appliqué, murals, and other precious artworks that deserve close appreciation.

DAY 3: Yamdrok Lake

Since I was on my own, my schedule was flexible—I went where I pleased and didn't rush. On the third day, I experienced Yamdrok Lake (Yamzhog Yumco), one of Tibet's three sacred lakes, at an altitude of 4,441 meters. Yamdrok is hailed as the most beautiful water in the world. The name breaks down as "Yam" (upper), "drok" (pasture), and "Yumco" (turquoise lake), meaning "turquoise lake of the upper pasture"—but that's just a literal interpretation. People affectionately call it Yamdro, and it stands with Namtso and Manasarovar as the three sacred lakes.

Yamdrok's charm lies in its ever-changing beauty. Clear skies bring brightness, cloudy days a somber mood—two completely different characters. The water's hue shifts with the weather, now a clean sapphire blue like sparkling gems, now a dark ink blue. Along the winding mountain road, you see Tibetan mastiffs and yaks; it costs 10 yuan for a photo with a mastiff. The mastiffs are docile but seem pitiful, standing on small tables all day.

DAY 4: Namtso

Namtso means "Heavenly Lake" in Tibetan, one of the three largest sacred lakes. Vast and expansive, it is China's second-largest saltwater lake after Qinghai Lake. On the southwestern shore, the unbroken snow peaks of Nyenchen Tanglha rise; on calm, sunny days, the majestic mountains reflect in the water, serene and peaceful. In Mongolian, Namtso means "Tengger Sea," said to be the mandala of the tantric deity Chakrasamvara, making it a renowned sacred site in Tibetan Buddhism.

In each Year of the Sheep, it's believed that buddhas, bodhisattvas, and Dharma protectors hold grand ceremonies at Namtso. A single circumambulation and recitation during that time is worth a hundred thousand times the merit of ordinary practice. Thus, in Sheep years, devotees trek long distances to circle the lake. During the Saga Dawa Festival on the 15th day of the fourth Tibetan month, many pilgrims come to circumambulate Namtso. Blue sky, white clouds, turquoise water—a cleansing of the soul. Every snapshot could be a wallpaper; every spot made me feel the journey was worthwhile. Lhasa is truly a paradise.

Wandering about, I actually stayed here for quite a while, but most days were simply strolling the streets, soaking in the quiet. Evenings, I'd gather around the fire with friends from the hostel, sharing stories and dreaming up the next place to explore. I wished time could pause right there, in that simple ease. Yet one must stay awake to life. Here, I began a story, ended a journey, experienced different moments—all to recover my original self, then continue into the next unknown, whether in life or work. These days in Lhasa gifted me friends, a cleansed spirit, and rekindled the will to carry on. It was truly worthwhile. Arriving in haste, leaving in haste, I look forward to our next encounter.

Note: Some photos courtesy of traveling companions

Travelogue Table of Contents

1. If you never leave, you'll think this is the whole world.

2. Ends of the earth, inseparable as shadows.

3. Buddhist chants, white clouds, dream threads, heart marks. In stillness cultivate cessation, in motion cultivate insight.

4. Where in the world is a path to satisfy both, not betraying the Tathagata nor her.