The Third Pole: Pain and Joy (Part 2) — Encountering the Sacred Lake Paradise

📍 Lhasa · 👁 7276 reads · ❤️ 35 likes

Only after leaving Lhasa did we realize the true face of Tibet: 'four seasons on one mountain' and 'different weather every ten miles.' Sometimes overcast and rainy, sometimes bright sunshine, sometimes a sudden rainbow, sometimes bizarre clouds.

The bright moon rises above the Tianshan Mountains, amidst the boundless sea of clouds. The long wind blows thousands of miles, sweeping across Yumen Pass. This poem wasn't written about Tibet, but it suits it even better.

The journey was bumpy; our eyes were in heaven, but our bodies in hell. Altitude sickness, winding mountain roads, and pit toilets so filthy they could leave psychological scars... The harshness of the road contrasted sharply with the comfort of the Sunlight City.

A fleeting glimpse of a rainbow, sharply defined clouds, and Danxia landform hills.

Yamdrok Yumtso means 'Turquoise Lake' in Tibetan, often shortened to Yamdrok Lake. It is one of the three great sacred lakes of Tibet. It is said to be shaped like a coral branch, hence also called 'the Coral Lake above.' Yamdrok Lake is close to Lhasa, so we included it in our itinerary from the start.

We joined a small group day tour. At 7 a.m., before dawn, our Tibetan guide Wangqing and Han driver Xiao Ma were already waiting downstairs at our hotel. They drove us out of Lhasa. In the pitch black, we couldn't see anything, so we just slept once we got on the bus. When we were awakened by the sunlight, we realized the grandeur of nature had revealed itself. This was the first mountain pass where we stopped. I forgot to ask its name, so I'm not sure it was Gampala Pass.

Wangqing said that these colorful prayer flags at the pass should not be stepped over, and certainly not trampled. If they block your path, you have only two choices: either go around them, or lift them above your head and crawl under. That's their belief. He said that once two Han youngsters disrespecting the flags almost caused a fight.

The first viewing platform for Yamdrok Lake is only a little over two hours' drive from Lhasa. Here we encountered the first 'wild toilet'... Herders dig a big pit in the ground, cover it with an iron box or wooden planks, and that's a pit toilet. Two yuan per person, and you could even scan a code to pay. The herders were thoughtful: in this remote wilderness, they provided water for handwashing, using a drinking water tea urn with a faucet. Turn the faucet, and it actually worked. This was pretty much the only pit toilet outside Lhasa that still offered handwashing. During the day trips to Yamdrok Lake and Namtso, whether it was public toilets or pit toilets, there was no water source; after using the toilet, you couldn't wash your hands or flush. You can imagine how filthy and smelly it was. Over those two days, the toilets we used got worse and worse, never truly clean... Never mind... The first viewing platform is right by the lake. Let's enjoy the scenery!

The second viewing platform seemed mediocre, perhaps due to the sudden overcast sky. The weather turned gloomy, and the Yamdrok Lake, which should have been a deep blue, seemed to wear a grayish filter. At this platform, many herders had set up stalls, mainly selling souvenirs and offering paid photo ops with Tibetan mastiffs and yaks.

In the afternoon, the sun finally decided to show up, restoring Yamdrok Lake to its beautiful original color. When we reached the third viewing platform and saw the lake before us, four words came to mind: absolutely stunning. I thought, this is the real Yamdrok! Blue! A pristine, cloudless blue! We descended the steps, as if stepping into a fairyland in an instant. This blue meandered like a silk ribbon woven between the green mountains on both sides, stretching everywhere, glittering vividly under the sun. No wonder there's a saying: 'Heaven's fairyland above, Yamdrok in the human world; the sky's multitude of stars, the lake's multitude of sheep.'

There were many tourists flying drones here; I'm sure their footage is amazing. After all, with a lake like this, you can't take a bad photo.

The beauty of a day trip to Yamdrok Lake isn't just at the viewing platforms; it's everywhere along the journey. The car wound through the mountains, and scenery rushed toward us: rolling ranges, ethereal clouds, stern glaciers, and the ever-present Yamdrok Lake alongside... They combined into a poetic, picturesque scroll that captured our eyes and hearts, dreamlike, intoxicating. Who wouldn't say that the beauty of Yamdrok surpasses all of southern Tibet!

We also deliberately included a glacier stop on this trip. We chose Karola Glacier partly because it was a filming location for the movie 'Red River Valley,' but mainly because it's the glacier closest to a road in all of Tibet, making it easily accessible for tourists.

We could see it from afar on the road, so we took a photo and let Driver Xiao Ma take a break.

On the way to Karola Glacier, you can gaze at the majestic ice peaks from a distance.

At the foot of Karola Glacier, the parking area was neatly laid with crushed stones, altitude signs were clearly visible, and a boardwalk had even been built, winding all the way to the top. It was clearly a well-developed tourist attraction.

On the left, you see the Jiangsanglamu Snow Mountain; on the right, the Ningjinkangri Glacier. Apart from the high altitude, this place is quite nice.

Along the way, at almost every mountain pass, you could see colorful prayer flags fluttering in the wind, carrying the auspicious wishes of the Tibetan people. The mani stone piles scattered along the roadsides at the passes are a unique way for Tibetans to pray for blessings from the gods and spirits of the heavens in Tibetan Buddhism.

Later, we also went to some remote mountain nunnery, a secret meditation site of Guru Padmasambhava or something. It was quite eerie, so we just peeked and left. But unexpectedly, we discovered a hidden scenic spot behind the monastery's back gate—the Yarlung Tsangpo River valley, looking even more magnificent under the glow of the setting sun.

Traveler's Black Tent is actually a rest stop on the highway from Lhasa to Namtso, but due to its ... 'peculiar' shape? Or perhaps too 'modern,' totally incongruous with the surroundings, it's been described as a building that 'grew out of the ground.'

At an altitude of 4,300 meters, Traveler's Black Tent leans against the main peak of Nyenchen Tanglha, which stands 7,100 meters high. From the viewing platform, the view stretches endlessly. The Nyenchen Tanglha snow mountains extend for thousands of miles, and the grasslands at their feet are vast and boundless, turning golden wherever the sun shines. Even after taking photos, we lingered, reluctant to leave, as if we truly experienced the saying: 'Those who soar like kites to the heavens will find peace gazing upon these peaks; those entangled in worldly affairs will forget to return upon seeing this valley.'

To reach Namtso, you have to cross Nagenla Pass, which is at 5,190 meters above sea level. Everest Base Camp is only 5,200 meters, and here it's already 5,190 meters... At the foot of the mountain, the wind blows the grass low enough to see the yaks; at the pass, the cold wind howls, and every minute you feel like you might be blown away. The viewing platform at Nagenla Pass is a mandatory stop on the way to Namtso and offers a distant view of the lake. But you shouldn't linger. After a quick photo, we hurried away—partly because of the bitter cold, and partly to get back to a lower altitude before our bodies had a severe reaction to this terrifying elevation.

Down below, wind rustled the grass, revealing yaks; up above, the cold wind howled, making us shiver.

Driver Xiao Ma, perhaps feeling familiar with us, smugly revealed: When they encounter a few particularly difficult and fussy guests, the drivers 'discipline' them here. After the guests all get out to take photos, the driver locks the car and goes off to chat in another driver's vehicle. They wait a full 20 minutes before returning to drive. In the climate conditions of Nagenla Pass, even 5 minutes was agonizing for us, let alone 20. When I heard this, I couldn't laugh at all; such a trick could cause serious trouble. Sigh, it's just a case of 'a powerful dragon can't crush a local snake.' Locals have a hundred ways to make outsiders suffer in silence. When you're away from home, it's best to adapt to local customs and be kind to others.

According to local legend, Namtso is the daughter of Indra and the wife of Nyenchen Tanglha. Nyenchen Tanglha Mountain and Namtso Lake are not only the striking sacred mountain and holy lake of Tibet, but also a couple bound together in life and death. Nyenchen Tanglha looks even more handsome and imposing reflected by Namtso, while Namtso becomes more beautiful and charming mirrored in Nyenchen Tanglha. I can't really grasp such mythical tales, so I just listen casually. As an ordinary tourist, I only care whether Namtso is beautiful and photogenic. I have to say, compared to Yamdrok Lake we visited first, Namtso disappointed me a bit. Thick dark clouds pressed down, and Namtso, which should have been a pristine blue, seemed to have a gray filter cast over it.

From afar, Namtso was gray; up close, gray Namtso.

On that overcast day at Namtso, the wind howled fiercely. Water birds stood motionless in the lake, yaks calmly grazed on the shore, and as for the two of us... our faces were frozen out of control.

Just as we were about to leave in disappointment, the sun finally clocked in! It's past 3 p.m. and you finally remember to start work? When the sunlight scattered across the lake, it sparkled brilliantly. This is the Heavenly Lake! Namtso resembles a translucent gem set in the vast Qiangtang grassland, tranquil and boundless, where water and sky merge into one. To stroll along the lakeside at that moment would truly feel like being in paradise. Unfortunately, we were already on our way out, and time wouldn't allow us to return to the shore. We could only take a few photos from a distance.

At the last moment, let me take one more distant look at Heavenly Lake Namtso; perhaps I'll never come back again.

Tibet: a land of pristine, endless skies; majestic, desolate snow peaks and glaciers; vast, misty sacred lakes and holy waters; and simple, devout Khampa people. Before visiting, it's longing; during the visit, it's altitude sickness; after the visit, it's a wealth of memories. Pain and joy, making us cherish each other even more.

Finally, an aerial view of Lhasa, bidding farewell to this high plateau.

Travelogue Contents

1. Natural Scenery

2. Yamdrok Yumtso

3. Karola Glacier

4. Traveler's Black Tent

5. Nagenla Pass

6. Namtso

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