In remote Tibet, let's explore the highland secret realm with the Hongqi H5!
Somehow, Tibet has become a milestone must-visit for road trips. Here, not only is there the thin oxygen that pushes your physical limits, but also magnificent scenery clinging to every perilous mountain road.
'Body in hell, eyes in heaven.' Traveling thousands of miles just to see towering snow-capped peaks and a pool of emerald water amid the mountains—this is what gives the best meaning to the traveler's arduous self-driving journey in Tibet.
This is my third time in Tibet, retracing a road I once traveled. People say familiar places have no scenery, but just by changing the coordinates and the way you explore, every step in Tibet feels fresh.
Departing from Beijing, landing in Lhasa, I drove eastward with the Hongqi H5, searching for Namcha Barwa Peak hidden behind clouds, seeking every unexpected encounter along the way.
For this trip, I again chose the round-trip self-drive from Lhasa to Nyingchi—good road conditions, relatively easy. First, to train my driving endurance, challenging myself to complete the whole journey alone; second, to allow more time for Namcha Barwa Peak, known as 'the peak that nine out of ten miss,' to appreciate her beauty from every angle—sunrise, sunset, in the sky, and reflected in the river.
On this trip, apart from a few days staying in Soshong Village, I spent a lot of time each day on the road, totaling 1,500 kilometers. Besides the road beneath me, the companion I spent the most time with was the Hongqi H5, so let me first talk about the driving experience. What surprised me most was that a sedan could also run freely on the Lhasa-Nyingchi route.
The road from Lhasa to Nyingchi used to run along National Highway 318, rugged and treacherous, a considerable challenge for road-trippers. Later, the Linzhi-Lhasa Highway opened, running parallel to the Nyingchi-Lhasa section of G318, with smooth and excellent road conditions, so even beginners can drive without stress.
In 2019, the Mila Mountain Tunnel officially opened to two-way traffic—the biggest change I've seen in my three self-drive trips to Tibet. The tunnel is painted with blue skies and white clouds, so drivers no longer need to wind up and down the mountain, yet can still see the clear sky above.
The Linzhi-Lhasa Highway from Lhasa to Nyingchi, 500 kilometers one way, is part of the Ya'an-Yecheng Expressway and is a very pleasant drive. After the 2020 facelift, the Hongqi H5 added a 1.5T engine and a 1.8T turbocharged engine, with noticeably improved power. Switching to sport mode, you instantly feel the surging output; watching the remaining mileage on the navigation decrease bit by bit, my spirits rose higher and higher.
The long journey easily leads to driving fatigue, so on the highway, the function I use most is cruise control, a little helper for taking a break during long drives. On the Linzhi-Lhasa Expressway, the speed limit is generally 110 km/h, with some mobile speed checks at 80 km/h. With the ACC adaptive cruise control set, the car automatically maintains a following distance from the vehicle ahead. Although system-controlled, braking and acceleration are smoothly and linearly executed, calm and graceful.
From Lulang Town to Soshong Village, you have to cross a mountain—150 kilometers taking 4 hours, with many U-turns. When vehicles approach from opposite directions, one has to pull over quickly to let the other pass. Sometimes a car suddenly overtakes from behind. The Hongqi H5's BLIS blind spot monitoring system alerts me with a beeping sound when there's a vehicle in the blind spot, letting me enjoy ultimate tech safety and drive fearlessly.
Revisiting old haunts is not just about rediscovering forgotten beauty; more importantly, it's about standing in the same spot and re-examining myself through the dimension of time.
The first time I saw Namcha Barwa, I hadn't done much research. We were driving along when my companion spotted the main peak emerging from the clouds in the rearview mirror. She shouted, got out of the car, and put her hands together in prayer toward Namcha Barwa.
At the time, I didn't make a wish, because seeing the main peak of Namcha Barwa seemed so easy that I didn't realize how much luck it required.
After returning from Tibet that time, I had a meal with a friend who told me this story: He had been single for years and came to Tibet to trek around the mountain. The moment he looked up and saw Namcha Barwa, he met the love of his life. The two returned to a seaside town and lived comfortably, but couldn't conceive for years. They came back to Tibet to trek around the mountain again, and soon after returning home, she became pregnant.
When I heard this story, I was holding their sleeping daughter in my arms.
I used to not believe in luck, only in man's determination to conquer nature. Now, after years of ups and downs, I finally understand that sometimes, ninety-nine percent of effort still needs a little bit of opportunity and luck.
So many people want to see the true face of Namcha Barwa, probably all seeking a hint of good fortune. Those journeys and lives filled with all-out effort deserve an extra token of support after all.
For this unusual year that has passed, I wanted to take a good look at this 'spear piercing the sky.'
She is the emerald pool in the Yarlung Tsangpo Grand Canyon, the golden sunrise mountain of Soshong Village, a glance back on the road in Dalin Village, and the vast snowy expanse at Sejila Pass.
At 7,782 meters above sea level, the 28th highest peak in the world, she is shrouded in clouds all year round. Even on a cloudless day, a ring of clouds always lingers around the main peak, making her difficult to see.
Even though I know more and more travelers are visiting Soshong Village, and room rates soar to over a thousand yuan in peak season, I still want to share this place. It's a place where you can easily retreat to idyllic countryside while retaining the standard of city life.
Every hotel room has windows with mountain views. As I drove along looking for a place, I'd stay wherever the price was right and the room clean and tidy. In the morning, with a bare face, I could walk out and see Namcha Barwa.
Walking a bit farther, through a small farm gate, you reach the edge of a cliff. Here, looking up, you see the clear Namcha Barwa Peak; looking down, the farm fields and prayer flags; and a few steps forward, the flowing Yarlung Tsangpo River.
Those who live here must have very open minds. Opening the door to see the mountain, looking down to meet the river—standing here, any worries become so insignificant they can be ignored.
Continuing up the hill from Soshong Village, you reach Dalin Village. Along the way, Namcha Barwa constantly accompanies you. There are lush forests and broken bridges washed out by floods, the road a bit more treacherous, but with the Hongqi H5, the driving experience remains smooth.
I really like the name Dalin Village—it sounds like softly saying 'Darling.' The people living in this village must be very romantic.
Compared to the popularity of Soshong Village, Dalin Village is more off-the-beaten-path and has become a location for high-end hotels. The Songtsam Namcha Barwa Lodge in Mainling is here, with rooms costing over 5,000 yuan a night in peak season. I had a meal here, enjoying the view of Namcha Barwa along with Tibetan pork—truly delicious.
But the greatest generosity of Tibet is that beautiful scenery never comes with a price tag. The most beautiful scenery in Dalin Village is right on the road.
This straight road is also perfect for shooting road trip photos. Park the Hongqi H5 by the roadside, the stretching road, the snow mountain behind, and the Chinese design aesthetics of the Hongqi's exterior—this is what a road trip should look like in my mind.
Unlike other sedans, the Hongqi H5 proudly imprints Chinese design, Chinese manufacturing, and Chinese aesthetics onto the car.
The iconic Hongqi hood ornament symbolizing vitality, the sloping coupe-like design, and my favorite family-style vertical grille, which incorporates elements of traditional Chinese folding fans—the black body paired with the snow mountain creates an ink wash painting-like atmosphere, truly making you feel like you're wandering inside a painting.
'Gongzun Dem Farmhouse'
Before going uphill to Soshong Village, at the first fork in the road, turn right and you'll arrive at Gongzun Dem Farmhouse. This farmhouse was built through collective investment by local farmers, providing jobs and even generous year-end dividends for the villagers.
The scenery inside Gongzun Dem Farmhouse features a unique sand dune. The distant Namcha Barwa peak, the nearby Yarlung Tsangpo River, and the soft sand dune underfoot form a perfect rule-of-thirds composition.
The Hongqi H5 is parked at a distance on the relatively harder sand beside the dune, with the majestic snowy mountain behind. Sitting in the car and looking at the view in the rearview mirror, it's a scene of peaceful tranquility.
Returning to nature has always been a goal for city dwellers. Some pitch tents by the mountain, some set up swings by the water, whether to daydream or to get drunk. In fact, mountains and rivers cannot truly change anything, but after seeing these things that infinitely approach eternity on the timeline, we can more accurately realize the impermanence of life. We become more accustomed to change, to making gradual progress amidst change, to no longer grieving over gains and losses or dwelling on momentary joys and sorrows.
Mountains and rivers never need to figure anything out; it's only people who need sudden enlightenment.
Back in Lhasa, I visited the Potala Palace and hired a guide. The lady was from Mainling. When she heard I'd just returned from a self-drive in Nyingchi, she said, 'Nyingchi is like the water towns of Jiangnan for Tibet. If you want to experience the real adventurous Tibet, you should head to Everest Base Camp and further into the backcountry.'
But I still love coming back to Nyingchi again and again. The physical strain isn't great, and the scenery is diverse enough—in one day, you can see canyons, snow mountains, sand dunes, and lakes. Who says the plateau must be harsh and cruel? Can't it have its own gentle and affectionate side?
Lulang is a forested area near Bayi Town in Nyingchi. Its Tibetan name means 'Valley of the Dragon King' and also a 'place that makes people not miss home.' I prefer the second name, because in a faraway land of high mountains and distant waters, that name feels even warmer.
The dense forest of cloudy peaks and pine trees is Lulang's greatest feature. I love recommending this place to first-time visitors to Tibet: first, the altitude is lower—hotels here are around 3,000 meters; second, the abundant trees provide plenty of oxygen, so altitude sickness is rare.
Beyond the Lulang Forest, the entire town is famous for stone pot chicken. A dark green pot made from 'soapstone' mica is used to simmer local chicken and various mushrooms, producing a particularly nourishing broth.
Because of this, Lulang Town has become a popular tourist spot. Around a lake, hotels like Poly Yatu and Evergrande have been built. Whether continuing east to Bomi or crossing the mountain north to Soshong Village, this has become the best place for large gatherings and recuperation.
This time I stayed at the Evergrande Hotel. In the morning, I could drive the Hongqi H5 right up to the nearest spot by the lake, watching the water become a mirror, seeing the reflections of mountains and clouds fall into the lake. Sometimes on a journey, you don't need sunny days; misty areas have their own charm.
'Sejila Pass'
If you want to experience high-altitude driving, Lulang is no problem. Driving all the way from Lhasa, Sejila Pass is a must-pass point. At an elevation of 4,728 meters, you can experience the bitter end of vast snowy whiteness and slightly feel the thinness of oxygen.
A branch of the Nyenchen Tanglha Mountains, it serves as the watershed between the Nyang River and Parlung Tsangpo in Nyingchi. On clear days, flying a drone from Sejila Pass, you can capture Namcha Barwa Peak in the distance. The clouds move extremely fast, and within five minutes, you can witness a dramatic change of scenery.
Nyingchi is vast, so vast it could fill a whole article with places worth visiting. But this time my focus is on the wheels, so I'll briefly mention the other places.
'Buddha's Palm Sand Dune'
After getting off the Linzhi-Lhasa Expressway and continuing toward Lulang, you can see the Buddha's Palm Sand Dune below from the cliff. Every day at 3 p.m., the punctual wind blows the fine sand on the north bank of the Yarlung Tsangpo River into a dune, named for its resemblance to two palms pressed together in prayer.
The Buddha's Palm Sand Dune is best visited in the morning, because in the afternoon, the wind turns the dune into a raging desert. In the morning, it's as quiet as a maiden; in the afternoon, as active as a rabbit.
At its calmest, you can walk barefoot on the sand, just like at the seaside, with an endless expanse of white before you. But when you fly a drone up, you can see the Yarlung Tsangpo River flowing nearby, like seawater.
In Tibet, there's a scenic route called 'One Lake After Another.' Yamdrok Lake in Lhasa, Peiku Lake near Everest Base Camp, Basum Lake and Shin Lake in Nyingchi—these turquoise and blue waters together form the clearest colors on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau.
Basum Lake should be the most famous among these plateau emerald gems, aside from Yamdrok Lake. Not only is it accessible along the Linzhi-Lhasa Highway, but on Zhaxi Island in the center of the blue-green lake hides the mysterious Tsozong Gongba Monastery, adding a touch of culture to the natural scenery.
Returning to Lhasa with the Hongqi H5, five days had passed in the blink of an eye. More cars were on the road, and speaking Mandarin was common. If in Nyingchi I loved the scenery along the drive, in Lhasa I sought the simple joys of being a traveler.
The heart of the Nyingchi road trip is Namcha Barwa, while everything in Lhasa revolves around the Potala Palace. Starting from a hotel where you can look up and see the back of the Potala, beginning the day with a cup of sweet tea, a bowl of Tibetan noodles, and a beef patty.
The biggest feeling of revisiting old places is not that the destination has changed, but truly sensing that my mindset toward the world has shifted. More tolerant, more accepting, no longer stubborn, no longer holding on too tightly. Being able to simply do some happy touristy things, without overemphasizing the meaning of a traveler—this is the greatest change I felt on this revisit.
In recent years, Tibetan costume travel photography has become popular in Lhasa. Photo studios compete to offer their own Tibetan costumes, makeup, and unique photo spots. For less than 300 yuan, you can have your own makeup and hairstyle, a Tibetan costume, two hours of shooting, raw photos, and a set number of retouched images. It's a great deal by any measure and especially suitable for solo travelers.
I spent an afternoon on Barkhor Street, picking out a studio's new, modified Tibetan costume with a bit of a Mongolian-Tibetan mix, plus elaborate accessories, and took a stroll with the photographer's Alaskan dog.
The posing guidance was somewhat formulaic but undeniably efficient. Passing by prayer wheels, through alleys, around street corners, then looking back at the raw photos, the hit rate was extremely high. I finally got to see what I look like in Tibetan costume. After all, life is too short to experience every ethnicity's life; we can only broaden our horizons in the simplest ways.
What delighted me even more was that even though the Tibetan costumes were modified and most tourists don't understand their significance, the local Tibetans still accepted it all with tolerance and kindness. They didn't feel offended or think us shallow; they just smiled and said, 'If you like our culture, then spread it, let more people see it.'
'Watching Princess Wencheng'
In Lhasa's classic repertoire, the large-scale outdoor musical 'Princess Wencheng' is a must-see. Beyond natural scenery, it brings inland and plateau histories closer in the most authentic way.
On my third visit to Lhasa, I finally caught up on this lesson. The plot revolves around Princess Wencheng's marriage to the Tibetan king and shows how, through the spread of Han culture, Tibetan agriculture, Buddhism, and culture reached new heights.
What moved me most was the 'daughterly sentiment' above family and country: The journey from Chang'an (present-day Xi'an) to Lhasa took three years back then. Even today, the Sichuan-Tibet route tests one's willpower, so imagine the road conditions back then. Gales, blizzards, mudslides, and altitude sickness never experienced before—her entourage suffered illness and death. Yet Princess Wencheng, with the heavy responsibility on her shoulders, had no choice. This 15-year-old girl shouldered the mission of frontier peace and cultural dissemination.
There's a line in the play:
'Thousands of rivers in the world flow east, but only the princess journeys west to marry.'
'Among the thousands of girls in the Great Tang, only one crossed the great river to marry far from home.'
Those who travel far from home, if not following their hearts, always carry their own or others' dreams. A thousand years ago, there was Princess Wencheng; a thousand years later, there are countless travelers, breaking through the language of Babel, carrying dreams of foreign and native lands, transforming this world into one that embraces all and becomes more inclusive.
Though not of royal blood, those who wander far from home all year round also understand the heart that can't go back to its hometown.
A journey through the mysterious realm of Tibet, 1,500 kilometers of outdoor time.
Accompanied by the Hongqi H5, weaving through high mountains, lakes, and dense forests, a journey of self-reflection through familiar places unfolds.
If life is a solo journey, then the scenery seen, the stories encountered, and the insights gained become the best accelerators for personal growth.
Before loneliness comes confusion; after loneliness comes growth.
If you have doubts about life, why not seek answers amidst the mountains and waters.
'A thousand-mile journey begins with a single step.' The first step of a Tibet road trip starts with having your ID and driver's license ready. Unlike inland areas, gas stations in Tibetan regions are strictly managed. Each time you fill up, you need three documents: your ID, driver's license, and vehicle registration, all in the same name, to complete real-name verification and get the fueling slip.
There are many speed-check zones along the way. If you don't want to accumulate a pile of penalty points, it's advisable to turn on navigation and set cruise control. The Linzhi-Lhasa Expressway has excellent road conditions, making speeding easy, so always remind yourself to stay within the limit.
Altitude sickness really tests each person's constitution. Men with large lung capacity are especially prone to it, while women tend to adapt better. Here are a few personal tips to share:
1. Upon arriving on the plateau, avoid hot showers with excessively high temperatures, especially for those who fly directly to Lhasa. If you must shower, keep it to 5-10 minutes and not too hot. It's advisable to leave the bathroom door open for air circulation.
2. Avoid overly strenuous exercise (like hiking, running, jumping), because even if you don't feel oxygen-deprived during activity, your body may not recover as usual during rest, leading to altitude sickness symptoms.
3. Try to choose hotels with oxygen supply and oxygen concentrators. When altitude sickness hits, small oxygen canisters don't help much; an oxygen concentrator works faster.
Temperatures on the plateau fluctuate greatly. During the day, you can sweat profusely, and other times the wind is biting cold. I suggest visiting in May, wearing a short-sleeved/light long-sleeved shirt with a windproof jacket or thick coat. Also, pack a compressible down jacket for early mornings/evenings or glacier treks.
Once the rainy season hits Tibet, you'll often encounter dark clouds while driving. It's a safe bet to bring an umbrella or raincoat.
Footwear should be breathable and comfortable flat shoes. For long drives, bring extra socks and shoes for changes. Sunglasses are also essential—the plateau sunlight is intense, and they protect your eyes.
I didn't use any medication throughout this trip.
If you have a relatively weak constitution or plan to do high-intensity exercise, you can take some American ginseng lozenges to boost energy.
More cautious travelers are advised to prepare the following medications:
1. Half a month to a week before departure, take Rhodiola and Gao Yuan An (altitude sickness relief) to enhance the body's resistance to hypoxia.
2. During the trip, you can take Bufferin (for headaches), American ginseng lozenges (for fatigue), and glucose oral rehydration solution or powder (excellent for restoring energy!).
Travelogue Contents: 1. Foreword; 2. [Self-Drive Tips]; 3. First Stop Nyingchi | What magic does Namcha Barwa, 'seen by one in ten,' hold?; 4. Second Stop Nyingchi | Lulang is like Jiangnan, but I'd like to sleep a while in Jiangnan; 5. Third Stop Nyingchi | Half sand dune, half emerald wave; 6. Fourth Stop Lhasa | Want to be a simple tourist, everything revolves around the Potala Palace; 7. [About Plateau Travel] Travel Information, Hotel Index, Guide Index, Flight Index, Website Navigation, Travel Index, Cruise Index, Corporate Travel Index, Franchise Cooperation, Distribution Alliance, Links, Corporate Gift Card Purchase, Insurance Agent, Agency Cooperation, Hotel Franchise, Destination & Scenic Spot Cooperation, More Franchise Cooperation, About Ctrip, About Ctrip, Ctrip News, Contact Us, Careers, User Agreement, Privacy Policy, Business License, Security Center, Ctrip Content Center, Intellectual Property, Trip.com Group Algorithm Disclosure
