Roaming the World (1474) Sixth Visit to Tibet Part 1: The Potala Palace Kora Path

In early to mid-April 2021, during my trip to Tibet, I visited the Potala Palace kora path. Photo taken on the Potala Palace kora path.

This was my sixth visit to Tibet. The main purpose of this trip was to attend the peach blossom festival in Nyingchi. Photo taken from the airplane.

I had originally planned to fly from Chengdu to Nyingchi, but during the peach blossom festival, airfares skyrocketed. Only business class was available from Chengdu to Nyingchi, costing 5,700 yuan! So I had to go via Lhasa. Photo taken from the airplane.

Lhasa Gonggar Airport was basically the same as before.

Lhasa city had changed a lot. The better hotels now all have oxygen supply facilities.

The hotel even provided complimentary rhodiola (a traditional herb for altitude sickness).

The second day of the itinerary was to visit the Potala Palace. I had been there many times, and since photography is not allowed inside, I didn't go in this time. Instead, I chose to walk the Potala Palace kora path. Photo taken at the East Gate entrance.

Potala Palace is located on Marpori (Red Hill) in the northwest of Lhasa, the capital of the Tibet Autonomous Region. This palace-fortress complex was originally built by King Songtsen Gampo of the Tubo dynasty to welcome his brides Princess Bhrikuti and Princess Wencheng. Photo: distant view of Potala Palace.

Reconstructed in the 17th century, Potala Palace became the winter residence of successive Dalai Lamas and the political and religious center of Tibet. In 1961, it was listed among the first batch of key cultural relics under state protection by the State Council of the People's Republic of China. In 1994, it was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Photo: distant view of Potala Palace from Zongjiao Lukang Park.

In the ancient holy city of Lhasa, there are three time-honored kora paths, forming three concentric circles. They are Nangkhor, Barkhor, and Lingkhor. The first circle is inside Jokhang Temple, called Nangkhor, meaning the "inner circle". The second circle goes around Jokhang Temple, called Barkhor, meaning the "middle circle". The third circle encircles the entire old city of Lhasa, called Lingkhor, meaning the "outer circle". Besides these three, there is another circle known as "Zikhor", which is the path around Potala Palace. On these four kora paths, one can see the devotion and hopes scattered by generations of pilgrims, along with the deep layers of history and culture deposited over countless years. Photo taken on the Potala Palace kora path.

"Zikhor" is a Tibetan term transliterated into Chinese, meaning "top circle", which can be loosely translated as "circumambulation at the top". Lhasa locals often say "Zibudala", meaning "Potala Palace on Red Hill", so "top circumambulation" refers to walking around Red Hill where Potala Palace stands. Photo taken on the Potala Palace kora path.

Zikhor is the famous kora route specifically around Potala Palace. Its essence lies in tightly linking Zongjiao Lukang Park with the palace. Historic structures including Potala Palace, the Kangxi and Qianlong steles, the Three White Stupas, the Dragon King Temple, and others are seamlessly connected, exuding a rich religious atmosphere in old Lhasa. Photo taken on the Potala Palace kora path.

After passing through security, I arrived near the West Gate of Potala Palace, where the kora begins. Photo: the West Gate of Potala Palace.

This kora path is very long, about two kilometers. Countless prayer wheels are arranged in orderly rows. I heard that completing one circuit takes around an hour and a half. The circumambulation is done in a clockwise direction. The sound of chanting, the creaking of prayer wheels, footsteps, and even the heavy breathing from the high-altitude oxygen shortage all blend into a devout and beautiful melody, floating in the air above Potala Palace. Photo: a picture of me with a pilgrim on the kora.

"Kora" is a religious practice in Tibetan Buddhism, where devotees walk, pray, and prostrate along specific routes around sacred mountains, holy lakes, temples, stupas, etc. It is believed that performing koras is equivalent to chanting scriptures and is the best way to avert disasters and accumulate merit. Photo: a person making full-body prostrations on the Potala Palace kora path.

I didn't see many people doing full-body prostrations. Most held a handheld prayer wheel (also called a Mani wheel) in one hand and prayer beads in the other, murmuring mantras while walking slowly around Potala Palace. The prayer wheels need regular maintenance and lubrication. Along the way, I saw people repairing the wheels, mostly women who appeared to be living in modest conditions.

Near the northwest corner of Potala Palace, there are three white stupas. Around them is a circle of prayer wheels, forming a smaller-scale kora circuit.

The area behind the palace walls on the hill is called "Lingka", which mainly consists of garden buildings centered around Dragon King Pond. This is the back garden of Potala Palace, named Zongjiao Lukang Park. When the Fifth Dalai Lama reconstructed the palace, earth was excavated here, creating a deep pond. Later, the Sixth Dalai Lama built a three-story octagonal glazed pavilion in the middle of the lake, housing a statue of the Dragon King, hence the name Dragon King Pond. Photo: Dragon King Pond.

Potala Palace is undoubtedly the supreme object of devotion for all believers. Every day, countless pilgrims travel long distances, undaunted by hardship, just to come and pay homage. Walking the kora path located inside Zongjiao Lukang Park is one of the essential acts of pilgrimage. Photo: signboard of Zongjiao Lukang Park.

In Zongjiao Lukang Park, besides pilgrims doing the kora, many people come to dance the Guozhuang (traditional Tibetan circle dance).

Stainless steel sculpture in Zongjiao Lukang Park.

Along the kora path, the walls are adorned with Mani stone carvings. Many pilgrims pay devout homage there.

"Aphorisms" on the hillside wall of Potala Palace.

Along the kora path, the walls are adorned with Mani stone carvings. Many pilgrims pay devout homage there.

From morning till night, the kora path is filled with people—both pilgrims and tourists. Here, a monk is using his mobile phone.

Ahead on the walkway is an incense pagoda, where offerings burn constantly. It is said to be dedicated to the God of Wealth, so many worshippers burn fragrant offerings (sang) here to pray for blessings. The incense is made of cypress needles mixed with highland barley and tsampa flour, which are placed in the white stupa and produce fragrant smoke.

This kora path tightly encircles Potala Palace. The golden prayer wheels stand out brilliantly against the red walls. Devotees devoutly spin the gleaming, butter-oiled wheels with their hands, step by step moving toward holiness.

The main structures of Potala Palace are the White Palace and the Red Palace. The entire complex is built in Tibetan style, standing over 200 meters tall. It appears to have 13 stories from the outside but actually has only 9. Since it is built on the hillside with massive stone walls rising like sheer cliffs, the architecture seems to merge with the hill, creating a majestic aura. In the small square below the White Palace, some people are also performing full-body prostrations.

Pilgrims tired from walking can rest in this small square.

From the very beginning, Potala Palace was not meant for sightseeing. It is a witness to a long history, shrouded in mysterious legends, and a breathtaking architectural masterpiece.

In the hearts of Tibetan people, Potala Palace is a Buddhist holy land. Every year, tens of thousands of people come here to pay homage and offer their devout hearts. Photo taken in front of Potala Palace.

On Potala Palace Square opposite the palace stands the Monument to the Peaceful Liberation of Tibet.

The Potala Palace kora path sees a constant stream of people every day.

Diagonally across from Potala Palace is Chakpori (Medicine King Hill), a great spot to get a distant view of the palace. Every day, many people take photos here.

This is the spot where the image on the back of the 50 yuan banknote was captured.

Many people dress up in traditional costumes and come here for photo shoots.