Wandering the World (1475): Sixth Trip to Tibet, Part 2 – Barkhor Street Kora
In early to mid-April 2021, while traveling in Tibet, I visited the Barkhor Street kora in Lhasa. Photo taken on the Barkhor Street kora.
Located in the old city of Lhasa, Barkhor Street, also known as Bajiao Street, is an entire old-style neighborhood brimming with authentic Tibetan life. Originally just an ordinary street encircling the Jokhang Temple, it later became a kora (pilgrim circuit) for devotees. Today it has evolved into Tibet's most famous kora and Lhasa's tourist and commercial hub, combining a religious street, sightseeing promenade, folk culture lane, cultural avenue, shopping street, and marketplace all in one. Photo taken on the Barkhor Street kora.
Barkhor Street is one of Lhasa's three famous koras. In addition, there are two other circuits that complement it: the "Lingkor", or outer kora, which circles the entire old city of Lhasa including the Potala Palace; and the enigmatic "Nangkhor", the inner kora inside the Jokhang Temple. These three koras affirm and maintain the central importance of the Jokhang Temple, which is not merely a hall for worshipping Buddha statues and sacred relics, but a physical representation of the ideal cosmic model from Buddhist scriptures, namely the "mandala" — an esoteric Buddhist concept. Photo taken on the Barkhor Street kora.
With over 1,300 years of history, the Jokhang Temple holds supreme status in Tibetan Buddhism. Tibetans have a saying: "First there was the Jokhang Temple, then Lhasa city." The temple is central to Lhasa, not only geographically but also in terms of social life. Pictured: A distant view of the Jokhang Temple.
The Jokhang Temple, also known as 'Zulkang' or 'Jokhang' (meaning 'Buddha Hall' in Tibetan), is situated in the heart of Lhasa's old quarter. It is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery built by King Songtsen Gampo. Lhasa's reputation as a 'holy place' is closely tied to this temple. The temple was originally called 'Rasa,' which later became the name of the city itself and eventually evolved into 'Lhasa.' Photo taken in front of the Jokhang Temple.
In 1961, the State Council designated the Jokhang Temple as one of the first batch of National Key Cultural Relics Protection Units. In November 2000, UNESCO included it as an extension of the Potala Palace World Heritage site, making it a World Cultural Heritage property. 'Visiting Lhasa without seeing the Jokhang Temple is like never having been to Lhasa,' said the temple's renowned lama Nyima Tsering. Photo taken in front of the Jokhang Temple.
Barkhor Street was originally just the kora around the Jokhang Temple, the 'Barkhor.' In Tibetan Buddhism, walking clockwise around the Jokhang Temple is considered 'kora,' an act of veneration to the statue of Shakyamuni Buddha enshrined within. Photo taken in front of the Jokhang Temple.
The starting point of the Barkhor kora is a mast standing in Jokhang Temple Square, erected during the reign of Songtsen Gampo. It is said that initially, only a pile of stones was placed there for hanging prayer flags, and later the mast was set in the middle. This great mast is called 'Jueya Dajin,' meaning 'offering to Shakyamuni,' i.e. 'Buddha offering.' Whenever pilgrims reach this spot on their kora, they press their foreheads against the flagpole, chant scriptures, and then hang their own prayer flags brought with them (nowadays, to prevent fire, the prayer flags have been removed and the mast is fenced off).
The Barkhor kora must be walked clockwise along the path, keeping to the left of the mast.
Many aspects of Tibetan life, including festive ceremonies, are centered around the Jokhang Temple and its surrounding sacred relics. For example, in a traditional Tibetan girl's coming-of-age ceremony, her parents would prepare elaborate jewelry, waist ornaments, and a 'bazhu' made of pearls. A simple ritual would then be held in front of the Jueya Dajin mast. Photo taken in front of the Jokhang Temple.
Today, the geographic concept of 'Barkhor Street' has broadened considerably. The entire neighborhood surrounding the Jokhang Temple is collectively called 'Barkhor Street,' forming the well-preserved old city of Lhasa. Geographically, Barkhor Street extends west to the Liuli Bridge on Yutuo Road, south to Lingkor South Road, north to Xiaozhao Temple Street, and east to Lhasa City Hospital. Photo taken on the Barkhor Street kora.
In some travel guides, Barkhor Street appears as 'Bajiao Street' (Eight-Corner Street), leading some visitors to search for eight corners along the street. In reality, it doesn’t have eight corners. The name 'Bajiao' came about when a Sichuanese scholar transliterated the Tibetan 'Barkhor' into Chinese using the Sichuanese dialect, producing 'Bajiao,' which was later gradually corrected to 'Barkhor.' Photo taken on the Barkhor Street kora.
As a thousand-year-old street that best epitomizes Tibetan folk customs and culture, Barkhor Street, with its rich cultural heritage and time-honored traditions, has been selected as one of China's 'Top Ten Historic and Cultural Streets.' Photo taken on the Barkhor Street kora.
Barkhor Street vividly preserves the original charm of ancient Lhasa. Besides long-time local residents, there are also Muslim and Nepalese families who have settled here for over ten generations. The street-facing buildings are almost all shops, with over a thousand mobile stalls selling items ranging from prayer wheels of various sizes, Tibetan robes, Tibetan knives, and religious implements, as well as goods imported from India and Nepal. Pictured: Shops on Barkhor Street.
Ethnic tourist goods from various cultures are concentrated along this street, which is just over 1,000 meters long, and they are both affordable and of good quality. Scattered among the shops are some old art galleries, mostly dealing in traditional thangka paintings and exquisite hand-woven Tibetan carpets. Pictured: Shops on Barkhor Street.
Along the Barkhor Street kora, there are several small temples. Pilgrims will enter to pay homage.
Along the Barkhor Street kora, there are several small temples. Pilgrims will enter to pay homage.
Many tourists are seen taking portrait photos along the Barkhor Street kora.
Many tourists are seen taking portrait photos along the Barkhor Street kora.
The Qing Dynasty Resident Minister's Office is located right along the Barkhor Street kora.
The Qing Dynasty Resident Minister's Office is a National Key Cultural Relics Protection Unit.
The Qing Dynasty Resident Minister's Office is quite imposing.
Here there is a special exhibition about the Qing Dynasty Resident Minister's Office.
Here there is a special exhibition about the Qing Dynasty Resident Minister's Office.
There are also stone lions and steles left from the Qing Dynasty Resident Minister's Office.
When tired from the kora, there are places to rest along the way.
When tired from the kora, there are places to rest along the way.
Pilgrims on the kora usually hold a prayer wheel.
The yellow building of Makye Ame is commonly believed to be where the Sixth Dalai Lama met his lover.
Many tourists are seen taking portrait photos along the Barkhor Street kora.
Circumambulating and chanting scriptures is, for them, a way of life, a tradition passed down from an early age to the next generation. Pictured: Pilgrims resting on Barkhor Street.
Circumambulating and chanting scriptures is, for them, a way of life, a tradition passed down from an early age to the next generation. Pictured: Pilgrims resting on Barkhor Street.
Today's Barkhor Street blends tradition and modernity, East and West, religion and commerce – a window into Tibet and the most fascinating old street in Lhasa. Pictured: Pilgrims resting on Barkhor Street.
Today's Barkhor Street blends tradition and modernity, East and West, religion and commerce – a window into Tibet and the most fascinating old street in Lhasa. Pictured: Pilgrims resting on Barkhor Street.
Circumambulating and chanting scriptures is, for them, a way of life, a tradition passed down from an early age to the next generation. Pictured: Pilgrims resting on Barkhor Street.
