Ji Qiuhua: Where the Heart Belongs | "Impressions of Barkhor Street"

It's often said that Tibet is a must-visit destination in your lifetime, so when you arrive in Lhasa, everyone makes their way to Barkhor Street, leaving their own footprints behind.

Winding around the Jokhang Temple, Barkhor Street has withstood the passage of time and is now a bustling, vibrant old street where ancient traditions blend seamlessly with modern flair, exuding a distinct Tibetan charm. As I walked through the crisscrossing lanes and alleys of old Barkhor, I quickly became immersed in the rich ethnic atmosphere. I was captivated by the authentic Tibetan-style residential buildings lining both sides, with red, white, and yellow walls; amid them, rows of shops, cafés, dessert stores, and the legendary Makye Ame tavern—all of them telling you this is a place like no other.

Here you'll find the famous Barkhor kora, a circumambulation path that Tibetans call the 'Sacred Road.' Day after day, year after year, pilgrims from all over come in an endless stream. Circumambulation is a major part of Tibetan life, and standing here, I was constantly surrounded by soft prayers and chanting. The pilgrims, focused and serene, turn their prayer wheels, seeking blessings for the cycle of life and rebirth. Witnessing this ceaseless river of devoted pilgrims, I was filled with admiration for their faith and perseverance. I joined the flow, walking clockwise through the dense crowd, watching with my eyes and listening with my heart to the devotion that fills Barkhor Street.

Tibetan writer Tseduo once said: "Barkhor Street is a religious river, a river of life; it holds material value, but even more, spiritual meaning." For over a thousand years, customs have been passed down, and on Barkhor Street, every Tibetan, monk, and tourist is a pilgrim, with devout faith giving the street its most distinctive flavor.

In the marketplace of the old neighborhood, shops brimming with Tibetan daily life are everywhere.

An elderly Tibetan couple picking out goods.

After the farming seasons, Tibetan farmers and herders come here to shop for daily necessities.

Thangkas—religious scroll paintings mounted on colorful silk—can be seen in shops large and small all along Barkhor Street.

An ancient, peaceful alley paved with bluestone slabs.

Dressed in beautiful Tibetan clothing and exquisite headdresses, people pose for Tibetan-style photo shoots; these trendy travel portraits have become a striking sight on Barkhor Street.

Vintage Tibetan garments convey a sense of timeless weight.

Along the kora, devout pilgrims are everywhere, reciting sutras as they circle Barkhor Street again and again.

A pilgrim turning a prayer wheel on the kora. For Tibetan people, the prayer wheel is an object of faith; each turn is equal to reciting a prayer once.

A Tibetan elder's Nike sneakers stand out vividly.

Pious prayers in front of the Jokhang Temple.

Pilgrims prostrating themselves in the Jokhang Temple Square.

In Jokhang Temple Square, worshippers pray facing the temple's sacred Buddhas.

Many of the Tibetans circumambulating are elderly. When they get tired along the way, they rest on benches or stone platforms beside the street.

This elderly Tibetan woman is over eighty years old. With a kindly face etched by the years and dressed in a clean, old-style Tibetan outfit, she leaves a lasting impression.

Lhagang Nyingba, a three-story mansion built during the time of King Songtsen Gampo, now houses many families; four elders sit resting on the front steps.

On this ancient street, from early morning until night, the flow of circumambulating pilgrims never ends.

Ji Qiuhua: Member of Shaanxi Photographers Association, Shaanxi Human Geography Photography Association, and Shaanxi Xixian New District Photographers Association; contributing photographer for Jinmen.com. His photo essays such as 'Zhang Fuhong’s Escape from Poverty,' 'Epidemic Slogans,' 'Masked Travels Before and After Work Resumption,' and 'Traces' have been published on Jinmen.com and simultaneously reprinted by media outlets including People’s Daily Online, The Paper, Tencent, and Phoenix New Media.