August 2021 Self-Drive: 318 Sichuan-Tibet Highway into Tibet and 109 Qinghai-Tibet Highway Out

📍 Lhasa · 👁 8273 reads · ❤️ 38 likes

In August 2021, my spouse and I drove a Mazda 6 sedan from the 318 Sichuan-Tibet Southern Route into Tibet and exited via the 109 Qinghai-Tibet Highway. We passed through Ya'an, Luding, Kangding, Xinduqiao, Yajiang, Litang, Daocheng Yading, Batang, Zuogong, Basu, Bomi, Nyingchi, Lhasa, Nagqu, Tanggula Town, and Golmud, completing the 15-day self-drive journey of 318 Sichuan-Tibet Highway in and 109 Qinghai-Tibet Highway out.

Due to special circumstances, there were very few self-driving cars and cyclists on the 318 route. We missed the rainy season of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, so there were no landslides or mudslides. Overall the road condition was very good, and we encountered almost no traffic jams. A few sections such as Haitonggou, Jueba Mountain, and Bomi were under construction, making it very difficult for a sedan to pass and easy to scrape the chassis. The 109 Qinghai-Tibet Highway runs entirely above 4,000 meters, with many large trucks and long stretches of uninhabited land. Some sections had poor road conditions, making it challenging for a sedan. I kept my speed around 40-50 km/h; if you go too fast without caution, you'll bottom out the chassis. Both the 318 Sichuan-Tibet Highway and the 109 Qinghai-Tibet Highway traverse high mountains and ridges, with high altitude, many bends, narrow roads, and frequent ascents and descents. Driving requires extreme care. You must overcome physical fatigue from long-distance driving and possible altitude sickness. Slow down when meeting other vehicles, and never overtake on bends or slopes with poor visibility. On long trips, always make it a habit to check your vehicle’s condition, especially the tires.

We had previously read online guides about driving the Sichuan-Tibet and Qinghai-Tibet routes and planned an itinerary, but later due to mask impacts we didn't follow the original plan exactly. We had testing done in Daocheng County, Zuogong County, Basu County, Lhasa City, and Golmud City.

From Hanzhong to Ya'an, you pass through the Qinling Mountains, with many tunnels on the expressway.

Ya'an Langqiao covered bridge, with the Qingyi River below.

Huoxiang Fish Restaurant near Ya'an Langqiao.

Luding Bridge Scenic Area entrance

Zheduo Mountain mid-mountain viewing platform (after paying, you can get hot water and use the restroom).

Overlooking Zheduo Mountain. Climb a short slope from the white stupa near the parking lot and stand on the hillside to enjoy great views all around. This is the first mountain above 4,000 meters on the way into Tibet – a good place to acclimatize to the high altitude.

Parking lot at the top of Zheduo Mountain

We originally planned to stay in Batang County. Because Yajiang County didn't require a testing report, we checked online and thought Batang County also didn't require one, assuming both were in Sichuan Province, so we intended to get tested in Batang. But when we arrived at the Batang County checkpoint around 3 p.m., we were told we couldn't enter without a test report and had to turn back to Litang County. Many cars were doing the same. Litang County only offered testing in the morning, not in the afternoon, and other cities were too far away to reach in time. So we had to stay overnight in Litang at 3,900 meters altitude. That night, I suffered from altitude sickness: headache, dizziness, nausea, rapid breathing – it was awful. Thanks to drinking hot water, hot porridge, taking some medicine, and adding warm clothing, I slowly pulled through. By the next day, I was basically symptom-free. We had a 10-liter oxygen tank (a friend who'd been to Tibet lent it to us out of concern) and also bought 4 small portable oxygen canisters, but I insisted on not using oxygen. After that, I didn't have any more altitude sickness for the rest of the trip and didn't need oxygen.

Jianziwan Mountain viewing platform

Xiongzongka viewing platform

Nimagong Sacred Mountain viewing platform

Kazila Mountain viewing platform

Distant view from Kazila Mountain viewing platform

Litang County West Gate

A lone cyclist

Since I had altitude sickness last night at 3,900 meters in Litang (my spouse didn't), we decided to first go to Daocheng Yading, which is at a slightly lower altitude, to acclimatize. Daocheng Yading didn't require a test report either. We arrived at Shangri-La Town in Daocheng County around noon. After eating and settling into our accommodation, we drove about 20 minutes to the Daocheng Yading scenic area. The ticket is valid for two days. That afternoon we took the short route, visiting Xiannairi (Chenrezig), Zhenzhu Hai (Pearl Lake, also known as Zhuomala Co), and Chonggu Monastery. Shangri-La Town was bustling at night with restaurants, shops, pharmacies, and hotels—everything you need for resupply and rest.

Tu'er Mountain viewing platform

Yading Scenic Area entrance. From here, it takes over an hour by shuttle bus to reach the core area.

Xiannairi Sacred Mountain and Pearl Lake (Zhuomala Co)

Today we continued with the long route in Daocheng Yading. In the morning, we took the shuttle bus from the entrance for over an hour, then walked for a while to Chonggu Grassland at the foot of Chonggu Monastery. After that, we rode the electric cart for another hour to Luorong Cattle Farm. From there, you can choose to ride a horse (for a fee, one-way only, 3 km) or hike 3 km. Then you continue climbing about 2 km to Milk Lake and Five-Color Lake at around 4,700 meters. The final 2 km, ascending above 4,200 meters, is a test of everyone's physical strength and willpower. The 5 km return trip must also be done on foot. Only after completing this 10 km route do you truly understand the meaning of “eyes in heaven, body in hell.”

After entering the scenic area, the bus makes a brief stop at a parking area where you can gaze at Xiannairi Sacred Mountain from afar and overlook Yading Village.

Chonggu Grassland. In the distance is Jampelyang Sacred Mountain. From here, take the electric cart for an hour to Luorong Cattle Farm. (Be sure to buy a round-trip ticket for the electric cart; walking is too far.)

Chonggu Grassland. In the distance, Jampelyang Sacred Mountain.

Luorong Cattle Farm. In the lower left corner is the electric cart boarding point; in the distance, Xiannairi Sacred Mountain.

In the distance, Jampelyang Sacred Mountain

A friendly reminder from the scenic area

Afternoon, the horses are resting

Tourists heading to Milk Lake and Five-Color Lake, climbing above 4,200 meters is a test of body and will.

In the morning, we went to Daocheng County Hospital for testing. The hospital said the results would be out after 6 p.m. and could be provided in both paper and digital form. Since the results could be checked online, we didn't wait for the paper report and continued to Batang County. The road from Litang to Batang was in excellent condition with beautiful scenery on both sides, but there were many interval speed checkpoints along the roadside, so we had to carefully control our speed.

Many yaks along the way

On the road to Batang

Distant view of Sister Lakes from Haizi Mountain viewing platform

We spent the day traversing high mountains and deep gorges; it was a long and tiring journey. Leaving Batang County, near the Jinsha River Bridge, a section was under construction and extremely difficult for a sedan to pass. Haitong Gully was also under repair, with a long stretch of gravel road, though the overall road conditions were good and there was little traffic. The Jueba Mountain section was extremely steep, driving high on the mountainside with no bottom in sight. Many bends had no guardrails, the road was narrow, and passing was hard. Rest areas were few and basic. Some parts were under construction, making it very tough. However, we saw many tunnels being built, so in the future this stretch should be less dangerous.

Heading from Batang County toward Mangkang County, not far ahead is the Jinsha River Bridge. This section was under construction, and a sedan had a very hard time passing.

Dongda Mountain viewing platform

Tractor self-driver heading into Tibet

Passing through mountains, grasslands, and rivers, the scenery was stunning all along. The Nujiang 72 Turns followed by the Yela Mountain 99 Bends meant countless curves. Some places had severely damaged road surfaces, making it tough for a sedan. In Basu County town, shopping and dining were very convenient.

Yela Mountain viewing platform

Many yaks and sheep on the grasslands along the way

Distant view of the Nujiang 72 Turns.

In August, Ranwu Lake had a turbid, earthy yellow color instead of the emerald green often seen online – still beautiful in its own way. Knowing that the road from Lulang to Nyingchi would be closed for a day, and to avoid delays, we decided to skip Bomi and Lulang, cross Sejila Mountain at night, and reach Nyingchi City by evening. Probably everyone had heard the same news, so the road suddenly became very crowded with heavy traffic. At a few construction spots with poor road conditions, there were short traffic jams – our taste of the 318 congestion. Here the advantages of an SUV became clear; a sedan had a really hard time navigating the rough road. After a rushed journey, traveling from dawn till late night, and quite a few close calls, it was tough and a bit scary. I reminded myself: on future long trips, never drive at night.

Anjula Mountain Pass

Tractor self-driver heading into Tibet

Ranwu Lake self-driving camp

We originally planned to enter Lhasa via the 5,013-meter Mira Mountain Pass on Route 318. Leaving Nyingchi, we took the Lin-La Highway, got off at Gongbo’gyamda Town to join National Highway 318 toward Mira Pass. It was drizzling as we left Nyingchi; along the way the weather alternated between sunny and rainy. As we neared Mira Pass, dark clouds suddenly gathered and pea-sized hail began to fall, reducing visibility to less than 30 meters. For safety, we decided to turn back slowly, heading down and continuing on the Lin-La Highway. Later, we passed through the Mira Mountain Tunnel on the Lin-La Highway – a bit of a pity not to see Mira Pass. After the tunnel, the weather gradually cleared, and by the time we reached Lhasa, the sky was perfectly blue. The plateau weather truly is unpredictable.

Lhasa checkpoint on the Lin-La Highway

Passing the checkpoint and entering Lhasa.

Yamdrok Lake is in Shannan City. To get there, you need to cross high mountains with many bends and heavy traffic, so drive carefully. After the Shannan checkpoint, there is a scenic area ticket office on the right, charging 60 yuan per person (you can skip it; we weren't checked at later parking areas and viewing platforms). You can drive straight through without entering to reach Yamdrok Lake.

Yarlung Zangbo River Valley viewing platform

This is a viewing platform inside the scenic area that requires a ticket.

Distant view from a viewing platform inside the scenic area (ticket required). Ahead is Yamdrok Lake and snow mountains; the road leads to Langkazi County.

This parking area has no entrance fee and you can go down to the lake for photos.

Entering the first gate of the Potala Palace.

Tickets booked online; exchange for a paper ticket at the ticket office.

Several ticket offices inside where you can exchange for paper tickets.

Distant view of the Potala Palace

Yao Wang Mountain viewing platform

Potala Palace Square

Distant view of the Potala Palace

Chongsaikang pedestrian overpass

Visitors on Barkhor Street

Namtso Park entrance; buy tickets nearby, and then drive over an hour to the scenic area parking lot.

Welcome Rock (also called Couple's Rock)

Tanggula Pass Monument

Souvenir at Tanggula Pass

Tibetan antelopes seen from the roadside

Hoh Xil uninhabited area

Kunlun Mountain Geopark

Border between Tibet and Qinghai on the highway

In early August, we started the 318 journey from Ya'an, Sichuan. The 15-day Sichuan-in-Qinghai-out trip felt a bit rushed; we were on the road every day, driving about 8 hours a day. Fortunately, the scenery was all along the way – we stopped periodically to take photos and check in at landmarks, creating many wonderful memories. Our trip was smooth overall, with sunny weather, light traffic, few people, and convenient accommodation, dining, and shopping. For us, this journey was unique and unforgettable.

Itinerary: 1. Day 1: Hanzhong to Ya'an, 9 hours driving on expressway and Route 318. (Overnight in Ya'an, altitude 1,500 m) 2. Day 2: Ya'an to Yajiang, passing Luding, Kangding, Zheduo Mountain, Xinduqiao, 10 hours on Route 318. (Overnight in Yajiang, altitude 2,500 m) 3. Day 3: Yajiang to Litang, via Tianlu 18 Bends, Jianziwan Mountain, Kazila Mountain, 7 hours on Route 318. (Overnight in Litang, altitude 3,900 m) 4. Day 4: Litang to Daocheng Yading, passing Daocheng County, Daocheng White Stupa, Tu'er Mountain, 6 hours on G227. (Overnight in Shangri-La Town, altitude 2,900 m) 5. Day 5: Daocheng Yading scenic area, visiting Luorong Cattle Farm, Xiannairi, Jampelyang, Chanadorje, Five-Color Lake, Milk Lake; 11 hours total. (Overnight in Shangri-La Town, altitude 2,900 m) 6. Day 6: Daocheng Yading to Batang, passing Litang, Haizi Mountain viewing platform, Sister Lakes, 12 hours on Route 318. (Overnight in Batang, altitude 2,700 m) 7. Day 7: Batang to Zuogong, crossing Zongla Mountain, Lawu Mountain, Jueba Mountain, Dongda Mountain, 9 hours on Route 318. (Overnight in Zuogong, altitude 3,759 m) 8. Day 8: Zuogong to Basu, via Bangda Town, Yela Mountain, Nujiang 72 Turns, Yela Mountain 99 Bends, 7 hours on Route 318. (Overnight in Basu, altitude 3,260 m) 9. Day 9: Basu to Nyingchi, passing Ranwu Lake, Bomi, Tongmai, Lulang, Sejila Mountain, 12 hours on Route 318. (Overnight in Nyingchi, altitude 2,900 m) 10. Day 10: Nyingchi to Lhasa, via Mira Mountain Tunnel, 7 hours on Route 318 and Lin-La Highway. (Overnight in Lhasa, altitude 3,650 m) 11. Day 11: Lhasa to Yamdrok Lake, 8 hours round trip on G349. (Overnight in Lhasa, altitude 3,650 m) 12. Day 12: Lhasa city tour, visiting Potala Palace, Jokhang Temple, Barkhor Street. (Overnight in Lhasa, altitude 3,650 m) 13. Day 13: Lhasa to Nagqu, via Nagela Pass, Namtso Lake, 11 hours on Route 318 and National Highway 109. (Overnight in Nagqu, altitude 4,450 m) 14. Day 14: Nagqu to Tanggula Town, passing Amdo County, Tanggula Pass, 10 hours on National Highway 109. (Overnight in Tanggula Town, altitude 4,543 m) 15. Day 15: Tanggula Town to Golmud, passing Yangtze River Environmental Protection Monument, Wudaoliang Protection Station, Hoh Xil Tibetan Antelope Observation Deck, Kunlun Pass, 8 hours on National Highway 109. (Overnight in Golmud, altitude 2,780 m)

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