Magnificent Ngari

Tibet's Ngari region, lying in western Tibet on the southern Changtang Plateau (part of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau), spans 345,000 square kilometers with an average elevation of 4,500 meters. It is known as the 'Roof of the World's Roof'. Its capital is Shiquanhe Town in Gar County. Much of the area is uninhabited, but the Himalayan orogeny has sculpted magnificent, pristine landscapes of breathtaking, primordial beauty.

I had been to Tibet in 2007, but Ngari always remained a top destination on my wish list. In early summer, an advertisement from XX Outdoor caught my eye, and I immediately signed up with my hiking buddy Lao Cai.

September 15:

Because entering Tibet required a negative COVID-19 PCR test result within 48 hours, we opted for a flight-plus-train combo. We flew from Hongqiao Airport to Xining, then caught a train to Lhasa. This ensured our tests were still valid and also saved some money. Photo 3 captures the first snowfall we encountered when the train passed through Nagqu.

September 16:

The Z21 train arrived at Lhasa station at noon. I had booked a hotel near Jokhang Temple, the Bieyun Hotel (Rujia Pai). After the tour company’s pickup dropped us off, we followed our plan: first, a stroll along Barkhor Street, then to Yaowang Hill to photograph the Potala Palace, and finally a taxi to the Lhasa River near Nanshan. That way, we got a taste of the city and a close-up view of Lhasa’s mother river.

September 17:

Meeting day. We moved to the Minshan Yinqiao Hotel. Then we visited Sera Monastery, one of Lhasa's three great monasteries. My aim was to shoot a panoramic view of Lhasa and witness the famous 'debate', but photography inside the main hall was not allowed. In the remaining time, we took a taxi to the Lhasa Museum, now renamed the 'Tibet Million Serfs' Emancipation Memorial Hall'. Although the collections were modest, the educational significance was profound.

Accommodation: Minshan Yinqiao Hotel.

September 18:

Today marks the start of our 14-day, 13-night Ngari Grand Circuit journey. Our driver was a young Tibetan man, Tenzin, and our vehicle a Toyota Land Cruiser. The other two travelers: one, also from Shanghai, nearing retirement; the other from Hubei, also a photography enthusiast.

Today’s itinerary: Lhasa – Yamdrok Lake – Karola Glacier – Shigatse (370 km, 10 hours).

We crossed the Gangbala Pass (4,441 m).

First scenic spot: the Yarlung Zangbo River Valley.

Yamdrok Lake, one of Tibet’s three sacred lakes, sits at 4,441 meters, with a sprawling shoreline of 250 km and an area of 638 sq km, spreading across several counties and cities. We viewed and photographed it from multiple angles — hilltop, lakeside, and other vantage points. The weather was superb: blue sky, white clouds, and the exquisite beauty of Yamdrok lay fully revealed, making up for my 2007 visit when the valley was shrouded in thick fog and I saw nothing.

After four hours, we reached Karola Glacier. (This glacier only offered views of snowy peaks; we didn’t see a typical ice tongue.)

We saw the Noijin Kangsang snow peaks from a distance,

overlooked Manla Reservoir,

and visited the Dzong Fortress Anti-British Site in Gyantse alone.

We stayed at the Sheli Bieyuan Hotel in Shigatse.

September 19:

Itinerary: Shigatse – Lhatse – Gyatso La Pass – Everest Base Camp (352 km, 7 hours).

To reach Everest Base Camp before sunset, we skipped Tashilhunpo Monastery and pushed on. We passed the 5,000 km milestone of China National Highway 318, arrived in Lhatse, the birthplace of Tibetan knives, then crossed the Dingri checkpoint and entered Mount Everest National Park. The entrance fee was 130 yuan; over 70s free. Then we crossed the 5,200-meter Gyatso La Pass. From the viewing platform, a truly awe-inspiring panorama unfolded: four 8,000-meter peaks of the Himalayas all in sight. After hours of driving, we reached the Everest shuttle bus transfer station; a round-trip ticket cost 120 yuan. The park bus took an hour to reach Rongbuk Monastery, now just a stone’s throw from Base Camp. At that time, daylight was still bright and the site not too crowded. Soon, dusk fell in the west, and the setting sun bathed Everest in a golden glow against a spotless blue sky — a perfect 'Golden Everest' spectacle achieved! That night, my companion and I stayed at a guesthouse in Bashong Village at the mountain’s foot, while Sun and Zhang opted to camp at the base camp site.

Viewing Everest from the viewing platform,

the 103 hairpin bends ascending to the sky,

Gyatso La Pass viewing platform,

Everest Base Camp (5,200 m),

and the perfect sequence of the Golden Everest.

September 20:

Itinerary: Bashong Village – Gangga – Xixabangma Protection Area – Peiku Tso – Saga (390 km, 6 hours 30 min).

A long driving day. After bidding farewell to Everest, we followed Highway 219 towards the old Tingri county seat. After lunch, we entered the Xixabangma Protection Area. Shishapangma, at 8,027 meters, is the only 8,000-meter peak entirely within China, formed by three sister peaks of similar height, with well-developed glaciers. Next, we drove into Peiku Tso for a close-up appreciation of its lake and mountain scenery. In the evening we checked into the Yizhan Manor Hotel in Saga County.

Morning in Bashong Village,

the neat, straight Highway 219,

an uncommon flock of sheep,

wild kiangs (Tibetan wild asses) often photobombing,

and the lobby of the Saga hotel.

September 21:

Itinerary: Saga – Paryang – Lake Manasarovar – Mount Kailash – Tarchen (510 km, 11 hours).

A relatively straight northwestward route. We set off early, passed a pass, and encountered lakes, wetlands, sand dunes, and grasslands — the vast Zhongba Prairie. After lunch in Paryang, we crossed the Mayum La Pass and officially entered Ngari. The terrain opened up even more, and wildlife became abundant. Towards evening, we finally arrived at the sacred Lake Manasarovar. We entered from near the Chiu Monastery, descended to the lake shore, then visited nearby Rakshas Tal (the 'Ghost Lake'), returned to another Manasarovar viewpoint, and after thoroughly enjoying ourselves, drove to Tarchen town at the foot of Mount Kailash. We stayed at the Himalayan Kailash Hotel. Today happened to be the Mid‑Autumn Festival; the moon was as bright as a disc, so I gave up on astrophotography.

Lake reflections along the way,

dunes, snow mountains, and lakes,

Paryang town where we had lunch,

entering the Ngari region,

passing Kunggyu Tso,

snapshots of beautiful scenery en route,

Lake Manasarovar — 4,588 m elevation, 412 sq km, China’s second-largest freshwater lake and one of Tibet’s three sacred lakes. With the Naimona'nyi snow peak behind it and Mount Kailash to the east, the scenery is stunning. It is a holy lake designated by both Tibetan Bon religion and Hinduism.

Nearby is the 'Ghost Lake' Rakshas Tal, a saltwater lake that stays rough even without wind. The juxtaposition of these two very different lakes so close together is truly magical.

Another entrance of Manasarovar,

and checking into the Kailash Hotel on the Mid‑Autumn night.

September 22:

Itinerary: Tarchen – Rainbow Mountain – Zanda Tulin (Earth Forest) – Guge Kingdom Ruins – Zanda (280 km, 12 hours).

Mount Kailash, at 6,638 meters, is the main peak of the Gangdise range and revered in several West Asian countries as a sacred mountain, the center of the world. Many come here for pilgrimage and the kora (circumambulation). We went early to the visitor service center, but thick clouds hid the mountain, so I’ll post the photo I took yesterday. Rainbow Mountain and the Tulin were shot en route to Zanda. We arrived in Zanda town for a late lunch after 2 pm, checked into our hotel, then after a short rest visited the Guge Kingdom Ruins about 17 km away.

The majestic Mount Kailash,

the Kailash service center,

the Zanda Tulin (Earth Forest) — research suggests this area was a vast lake millions of years ago. After Himalayan uplift and crustal movements, the lake receded, and erosion by rain and water carved the lakebed into its current forms. It’s a witness to ages of geological change; in the vast cosmos, our lives are but fleeting meteors. The boundlessness of the universe and the smallness of life fill one with awe.

The Guge Kingdom Ruins — Guge was founded around the 9th century and lasted for 16 generations before mysteriously vanishing in the 17th century. The abandoned royal palace atop the hill, after three centuries, has lost all its splendor.

We stayed at the Tulin Castle Hotel.

September 23:

Itinerary: Zanda – Xiayi Gully – Shiquanhe Town (370 km, 7 hours).

After a night’s rest, our fatigue faded. Amid an endless yellow landscape, a patch of white earth forest suddenly appeared — Xiayi Gully (no ticket required, unmanaged). Our originally planned visit to Piyang Dongga Caves was switched to the Piyang Grottoes Site due to renovations. With no restaurant, we ate instant noodles at a small Tibetan shop at the Piyang site. In the evening, we checked into the Tibet Ali Hotel.

Xiayi Gully is a recently discovered area with distinctly unique landforms, richer colors than other tulin, and fantastic shapes. Importantly, you can drive in without a ticket; it’s also an ideal place for star photography. It’s been listed by China's National Geography magazine as one of Tibet’s 100 best photography spots. The weather wasn’t good — no sunlight. If there had been morning or evening rays, it would have looked like an alien planet.

The Piyang Grottoes Site also lies within the Zanda Tulin ravine. Thousands of cave dwellings of various shapes are scattered on the mountain walls, forming a large-scale complex of temples, fortresses, grottoes, and stupas. Over nearly a millennium, through the rise and fall of the Guge Kingdom, they have gradually blended into the yellow hills behind — that is history.

The murals are over a thousand years old.

Entering Shiquanhe Town in Gar County;

checking into Tibet Ali Hotel.

September 24:

Itinerary: Gar (Shiquanhe Town) – Pangong Tso – Rutog – Gar (300 km, 5 hours).

Today we headed north along Highway 219 to Pangong Tso, about 150 km away on the Sino-Indian border, then returned via Rutog county town.

Pangong Tso is an international lake, one-third controlled by another country. It stretches long and narrow for 155 km east to west, with its narrowest north-south width only 55 m. The eastern part is fresh water, while the western part (Indian-administered Kashmir) is salt water. The lake, surrounded by mountains, is crystal clear and exceptionally beautiful.

Scenery along the national highway (we stopped for photos):

Pangong Tso;

the water clarity is 3–5 meters, fish clearly visible;

the bird island 300 m long, 200 m wide, a bird paradise from May to September;

boat tours 60 yuan per person, about 50 minutes;

and the petroglyphs at Rutog.

September 25:

Itinerary: Shiquanhe Town – Ge'gyai – Yagre – Ringtor (425 km, 8 hours).

This was the beginning of the northern Ngari route. We plunged into the Changtang uninhabited wilderness. From here on, roads became increasingly rough, sometimes down to just following the tire tracks of previous vehicles. Being uninhabited, the scenery was at its most pristine, offering a vast, desolate beauty. We passed Cuona Tso, mountain passes, salt lakes, and alpine meadows, encountering wild kiangs, black-necked cranes, Tibetan gazelles, and more. Driver Tenzin showed off his impressive off-road skills as our Land Cruiser charged across the open plains. 'No Ngari, no Tibet.' The magnificent Ngari would etch itself into our memories forever. That night we stayed at Ringtor Xinyue Inn.

Lunch in Ge'gyai somewhere.

September 26:

Itinerary: Ringtor – Coqen (280 km, 6 hours).

All day we drove through uninhabited terrain. Grasslands, gobi, lakes, salt lakes — the scenery changed by the minute. The grandeur of Ringtor Kyubuk Tso, the ever-shifting hues of Dazabuye Salt Lake, and the sapphire waters of Dawa Tso all displayed Ngari’s supreme beauty. One lake after another — a 'lake-a-thon', ha ha!

First, Ringtor Kyubuk Tso, fed by snowmelt from the northern foot of the Gangdise range. A small peninsula formed by a hill jutting into the lake creates a half-arc shape — exquisitely beautiful.

Second, Dazabuye Salt Lake. Here, parts of the lake surface were mirror calm, perfectly reflecting clouds in the blue sky; other parts dried into salt crusts; and some areas were half lake, half salt in a fishing-net pattern — very peculiar.

This golden fox no longer shies from people.

Lunch: improvised on the spot.

Follow him: Tenzin is the lead driver.

Third: Ngangla Ringtso.

Fourth: Dawa Tso.

We checked into Coqen Xinkun Hotel.

September 27:

Coqen – Tangra Yumtso – Wenbunancun Village (322 km, 10 hours).

A spectacular day on the northern route, with much-anticipated sights: Zhari Namtso, Tangra Yumtso, and Wenbunancun. Today we saw four lakes in total. We spent the night at Wenbunancun, a beautiful Tibetan village.

Passing through a national-level wetland,

Zhari Namtso is about 54 km long east to west, 18 km wide on average, at 4,650 m, covering 1,023 sq km — Tibet's third-largest lake. Surrounded by mountains, its waters are perennially ultramarine. A small island forms an arc, adding a touch of charm to this high-altitude lake. There’s an entrance fee: 120 yuan per person.

Group photo (from left: me, driver Tenzin, Cai Purong, Zhang Weiping, Sun Yan).

Due to transport difficulties, we donated clothes and food to pastoral children — a highlight of the trip.

Several hours later we reached Tangra Yumtso, Tibet’s fourth-largest lake. With a depth of 230 meters, it’s China's second-deepest lake and considered a sacred lake by the local Bon religion. It is hemmed in by mountains on three sides, with only a gap at the southern shore formed by the Dargo Mountain. The dark mass of Dargo, capped with snow, resembles seven neatly arranged pyramids and is also revered as a sacred mountain. The ancient Zhangzhung Kingdom flourished here before the 5th century. The lake’s water is an incredible blue, like a jade pool from the ninth heaven.

Wenbunancun Village on the northern shore of Tangra Yumtso.

We lodged at Nima Jinlong Hotel.

September 28:

Itinerary: Wenbunancun – Siling Lake – Baingoin (58 km, 7 hrs 30 min).

The serene morning in Wenbunancun. As we departed, we continued to enjoy Tangra Yumtso up close. About two hours later, we passed the relatively young Nyima county town. Then we were welcomed by the boundless wilderness and alpine grasslands of the northern Tibetan plateau. After another three hours, we arrived at Tibet’s largest lake — Siling Lake.

Into the rising sun,

another lake — Yagui Tso.

Siling Lake, at 4,530 m, covering 2,391 sq km, is China's second-biggest saltwater lake after Qinghai Lake. In Tibetan, 'Siling' means 'demonic lake of shimmering light'. Besides being choppy even without wind, its water color changes with light — blue-green tones that defy language, a true merging of water and sky.

We climbed the observation deck (on the other side of the hill) .

Baingoin county town (stayed at Baingoin Hotel).

September 29:

Itinerary: Baingoin – Holy Elephant Gate (Shengxiang Tianmen) on the north shore of Namtso – Damxung (320 km, 7 hours).

Today’s destination was the much-hyped Holy Elephant Gate on Namtso’s northern shore, located on Qiado Langka Island, facing the Nyenchen Tanglha range across the lake. From the hill, the northern shore of Namtso forms two arcs, and on one arc sits a huge rock that resembles an elephant up close. The space between the elephant’s body and trunk forms a giant door — the Holy Gate to heaven, a legendary hidden frontier in the hearts of old Tibetans. Advance reservation is now required, and a vehicle pass must be purchased.

Crossing Duru Mountain (5,570 m) ,

arriving at Bam Tso,

finally seeing Namtso,

climbing Qiado Langka Island hilltop (Moon Bay),

the Holy Elephant Gate comes into view,

the majestic Nyenchen Tanglha range,

a different side of Namtso,

at the Holy Elephant Gate — we took a souvenir photo.

Crossing Largen Pass (5,190 m) ,

checked into Damxung Minshan Karma Hotspring Hotel.

September 30:

Itinerary: Damxung – Yangbajain – Kuoqionggangri Glacier – Lhasa (360 km, 9 hours).

The final day of the tour; we’d return to Lhasa tonight. Early morning we followed the Qinghai-Tibet Expressway (Nagqu–Lhasa section) to Yangbajain, then turned onto a provincial road towards Shigatse. In a mountain hollow, a towering snowy peak appeared — Nyenchen Tanglha’s 7,048-meter Qungmoganggyai Peak, the source of Kuoqionggangri Glacier. Also called Lhasa River Valley No.1 Glacier, at an average elevation of 5,500 meters, it’s a natural park combining glacier and meadows, and the closest glacier to Lhasa (160 km away).

A train on the Qinghai-Tibet line,

entering the glacier park,

the plunging glacial tongue,

Qungmoganggyai snow peak.

Returned to Minshan Yinqiao Hotel.

October 1:

National Day. We would fly out of Tibet in the evening. We chose to fly first to Xining, overnight there, then continue to Shanghai the next day — economical and less tiring. For today, I dedicated the time to visiting Drepung Monastery, located farther from downtown Lhasa. Drepung, once the largest Tibetan Buddhist monastery, nestles in a valley, with a Buddha display platform and several Buddhist colleges. From here, one can overlook the city of Lhasa. There were also many foreign tourists. Now I’ve visited all three major monasteries of Lhasa.

In the afternoon, we took the airport shuttle from the Civil Aviation Administration to Gonggar Airport, 70 km away. We would arrive at Shanghai Hongqiao at noon on October 2, ending our 17-day Ngari journey.

A long walk from the gate to the monastery,

built on the hillside, immense in scale,

a labyrinth once inside,

Gonggar Airport exterior,

and next morning flying from Xining to Shanghai via Xi’an.

This trip covered a total of 4,300 km (within Tibet) over 14 days (counting from the group tour), challenging many of my previous perceptions and giving me a completely new impression of Tibet. The altitude and the distance tested the stamina of a 70‑something, allowing me to gauge my own limits. On this expedition, I only brought a Sony a7 with an all-in-one lens, so many images I wanted to capture went unrealized. My video shooting was also too scattered; I hadn’t done enough homework, which later caused trouble when writing this travelogue. After ten-odd days of effort (my computer didn’t cooperate), I’ve finally finished. If there are any errors, I welcome corrections from fellow travelers.