Travelogue: Tibet is not in Lhasa, but on the Road

"Because of the lack of oxygen, my head hurts. Because my head hurts, my thinking circuit gets shorter. Because the circuit is shorter, things are easily forgotten. And because things are easily forgotten, worries are also forgotten." I joked with a friend.

Tibet is never heaven; coming here even means bearing many physical burdens.

But it is also special and unique, always giving people a reason to come regardless of the cost.

Especially because it is 'high above.' When you see the towering Himalayas from the plane, when you open a window in your hotel and see the outstanding snow-capped mountains, it stirs your heart and excites you beyond words.

Tibet may not be heaven, but it is the place closest to the sky.

Its uniqueness lies in being not only the geographical roof of the world but also a land of brilliant cultural and spiritual beliefs. Modern civilization does not shine so brightly here; people prefer to spend time wandering through temples and holy sites, honoring ancient rituals of life. As travelers take in the beauty of the Tibetan land, they are moved by its mysterious and enchanting qualities, redefining the relationship between heaven, earth, and humanity.

Tibet may lack oxygen, but it does not lack faith.

DAY0: Hangzhou-Lhasa

DAY1: Potala Palace, Drepung Monastery, Tibetan incense

DAY2: Yamdrok Yumtso, Riduo Monastery

DAY3: Lin-La Highway, Basum Tso

DAY4: Nyang River, Yarlung Tsangpo Grand Canyon

DAY5: Namcha Barwa Peak

DAY6: Nyingchi-Hangzhou

Veiled in clouds and mist, the towering Himalayas appear and disappear. Only from the plane entering or leaving Tibet can you gaze upon this forbidden zone of life from a god's-eye view.

View from seat A on the flight into Tibet

It is said there is a chance to see Namcha Barwa Peak. I searched for a long time but didn't spot it; maybe the peak's shape is not distinctive enough, and I missed it by accident.

View from seat L on the flight out of Tibet

In Tibetan, 'Songtsam' means 'pursuing the source of happiness.' Mr. Pema Dorji upholds this philosophy, creating a series of hotels that best embody the cultural characteristics of Tibet – the Mountain Lodges and the Linka Retreats. Guests stay in a home away from home, as if living in a museum of Tibetan culture.

Songtsam Lhasa Linka

Songtsam Namcha Barwa Lodge

I recall the feeling six years ago, disheveled and unkempt, when I first saw the Potala Palace and wept with joy.

I remember two years ago, when I took photos inside the Potala Palace and was nervously invited by the police uncle for a cup of tea at the station.

In Lhasa, there are always stories connected to the Potala Palace. From sunrise to sunset, from spring to white snow, it stands timelessly atop the Lhasa plain, an unforgettable symbol of Tibet in people's hearts.

Autumn-limited edition of the Potala Palace

"Is this the largest temple in Tibet?"

"Yes, it's the largest in Asia."

"Since it's the largest in Asia, it's probably the largest in the world."

Located on a hill in the western suburbs of Lhasa, Drepung Monastery was once the political and religious center of Tibet and remains the head of the three great Gelug monasteries. It is said that during the Shoton Festival every summer, hundreds of thousands of Tibetans flock here for grand celebrations, feasts, and the sunning of the giant Buddha thangka.

In this season, Drepung Monastery is nearly deserted, with hardly a monk to be found. But that's fine; it restores the tranquility the temple should have.

From an aerial perspective, you can see the giant thangka used for the sunning of the Buddha.

If you walk to the highest Tsokchen Hall, the reward is a limitless view.

Yamdrok Yumtso & Riduo Monastery

Yamdrok Lake is essentially a must-visit for travelers to Tibet. Tibetans call it a sacred lake, believing that such beautiful scenery must be a gift from the gods.

The color of Yamdrok Lake's water changes with weather, temperature, and other factors. Even if you visit many times, you needn't worry about seeing the same thing every time.

This time we took the southern shore route. Compared to the well-developed northern route, the southern shore is more remote and arduous. However, it offers natural and simple villages, the solitary Riduo Monastery, and lively wildlife—a gentle and transcendent side of Yamdrok Lake, different from the northern shore.

A Tibetan blue sheep making a heart shape with its rear.

The Lin-La Highway spans 410 kilometers, connecting Liuwu New District in Lhasa with Bayi District in Nyingchi, cutting the travel time to under five hours.

Whenever I drive on high plateaus or in the mountains, I can't help but feel that no other country except China would have the will and ability to build high-quality roads that may never recoup their costs in centuries.

I can't gush enough—China's infrastructure is GOAT.

Those who have traveled the 318 National Highway will never forget Gongbo'gyamda.

The Bayi Bridge spanning the Nyang River.

The Nyang River boasts endless scenery, with the standout stop being Basum Tso in the upper reaches' deep gorges. This is home to Tsodzong Gompa, a sacred site of the Nyingma sect.

Basum Tso is surrounded by lush vegetation, with snow mountains, lakes, and pastures. It fits in so perfectly that one even feels this might not be very typical of Tibet.

Coming from the high plateau to Basum Tso, we even felt a bit oxygen-drunk.

There are many legends about Namcha Barwa. Because its shape resembles a reclining woman and it is often shrouded in clouds, people call it the 'Shy Maiden Peak.' In the Epic of King Gesar, during the 'Battle of Menling,' it is described as 'shaped like a spear piercing the sky,' hence its other name, 'the Spear Stabbing the Sky' in Tibetan.

Namcha Barwa, a uniquely revered sacred mountain in Tibet—we drove a thousand miles just to catch a glimpse of it.

The surging waters of the Yarlung Tsangpo Grand Canyon, eagles circling high above, and towering pines on both banks—all serve as a prelude before meeting the sacred mountain.

As we got closer to Soso Village, we couldn't help but wonder how the sacred mountain would present itself to us.

…At 5 p.m., we arrived at the horseshoe-shaped canyon at the foot of Namcha Barwa.

Looking up, sure enough, the main peak was completely hidden. The saying 'nine out of ten visitors don't see Namcha Barwa' is truly accurate.

…At 6:15 p.m., we opened the hotel window for air and suddenly noticed the wind picking up in the valley, the clouds dispersing. The two of us, barely dressed, rushed out with camera and tripod.

We were lucky to see it before sunset.

Yani Wetland at the canyon entrance

Yarlung Tsangpo Grand Canyon

Soso Village in the horseshoe canyon

Selected by National Geographic as the most beautiful mountain.

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