To See Blossoms and Moonlight, Then Frost and Snow, Is to See the World
One night, tossing and turning unable to sleep, I decided to watch Big Fish & Begonia again. That line—"You might as well be bold: love someone, climb a mountain, chase a dream"—hit me right in the heart once more. Without hesitation, I booked a flight to Lhasa. I was going to Ngari.
I had imagined countless times what it would be like to visit Tibet, but I never thought I'd come in winter. Yet, what did it matter? Every smile, every glance should be scenery in its own right. With a reverent heart, I began my pilgrimage.
Lhasa sits at 3,658 meters above sea level, with over 1,300 years of history. It is the political, economic, cultural, and religious heart of Tibet, and a sacred city in the hearts of Tibetans. My first stop was the Potala Palace, perched on the mountainside at over 3,700 meters. "Potala" is a transliteration of Potalaka, meaning the palace of the bodhisattva. It is a trinity of palace, monastery, and stupa hall, and was once the seat of theocratic power in old Tibet. The complex is divided into the Red Palace, housing the stupa halls and chapels of successive Dalai Lamas, and the White Palace, the winter residence of the Dalai Lamas and the former offices of the local Tibetan government. More than its architectural grandeur, what moved me most was seeing Tibetan pilgrims everywhere prostrating. Standing by the roadside, watching them perform full-body prostrations, I suddenly understood something that had long puzzled me: What is the meaning of what they are doing? Beyond religious faith, I think they are doing something that feels deeply meaningful to their hearts. Just like when we set a goal, and then pursue it sincerely and wholeheartedly—that, perhaps, is success enough. Then I went to Jokhang Temple, also known as "Tsuglagkhang," meaning "scripture hall" in Tibetan. With 1,350 years of history, it is the oldest temple in Lhasa and remains the most revered central monastery in all of Tibet. Inside, it enshrines a gilded life-sized statue of Sakyamuni at age twelve, as well as statues of Songtsen Gampo, Princess Wencheng, and Princess Chizun. Next was Barkhor Street. Because in Sichuan dialect "khor" sounds similar to "kor" (horn), it came to be called "Eight-Corner Street," a name that persists today. This is not only a circumambulation path but also Lhasa's largest commercial street, lined with shops brimming with Tibetan, Nepalese, and Indian goods. It is a microcosm of the human landscape of Lhasa and the entire Tibetan region, drawing pilgrims from everywhere. The whole street resounds with the six-syllable mantra "Om Mani Padme Hum," a grand and magnificent sound.
The next day, I set off from Lhasa, passing through Yamdrok Lake, Langkazi, Karola, and Gyantse before reaching Shigatse. The drive took eight hours, through a breathtaking panorama of highland snow peaks. Yamdrok Lake, meaning "Turquoise Lake" in Tibetan, is the largest inland lake on the northern slopes of the Himalayas and one of Tibet's three sacred lakes. On the islands of the lake, ruddy shelducks, grey ducks, black-necked cranes, and swans gather in flocks, taking flight and landing again and again. In the distance, mountain peaks wore coats of silver-grey. Lake and mountains mirrored each other, infinitely enchanting. No wonder people living by its shores praise it, saying: "The celestial realm in heaven, the earthly Yamdrok; stars in the sky, flocks of sheep by the lake." The deep blue water blends into the distant snowy mountains, and along the way, multicolored mountains, distinctive Tibetan villages, and scattered herds of yaks and sheep lifted my spirits. The Karola Glacier is the glacier closest to a highway on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. Its starting peak is the famous Noijin Kangsang (7,206 m), which has spawned 116 glaciers; Karola is the largest among them. The films Red River Valley and The Knot were both shot on location here.
Day three's journey took me from Shigatse via Lhaze to Saga. We took our time, stopping whenever we pleased, traveling nine hours in total. After breakfast, we drove toward Lhaze and the Sang Sang Grasslands. All along the way, snowy peaks and grassland scenery unfolded—bright sunshine, boundless prairie, scattered livestock, tender green grass, and the enigmatic presence of nameless distant peaks. A surge of breathtaking beauty came wave after wave. We then crossed the Che La Pass at 4,915 meters and followed the Duoxiong Zangbo Valley for about 125 kilometers to the 22nd Army Mess, where the southern and northern routes of the Ngari circuit diverge. The northern route is extremely rough, but the scenery along the way makes you so excited you forget the hardship. We passed through hot spring areas thick with steam and mist, watching beside the road as the hues of lake water shifted continuously, like a classical ink wash painting come to life. We stayed overnight in Saga. This stretch is quite rough and the journey is long; you might not reach meal points on time. I'd recommend bringing your own snacks and preparing enough dry food, snacks, fruit, and bottled water for emergencies. Parts of the route are sparsely populated, and being at high altitude, water and electricity resources are scarce; sometimes there are outages.
On the fourth morning, we left Saga for the sacred mountain, sacred lake, and the ghost lake. Passing through Zhongba to Paryang, we first visited the sacred Lake Manasarovar, the freshwater lake with the greatest water clarity in China. It lies between Mount Kailash, the main peak of the Gangdise range, and Gurla Mandhata of the Himalayas, within Pulan County in Tibet. Manasarovar is also called Mapham Yumtso, and was once known as Matsho. It was once connected to Rakshas Tal (the ghost lake) but later became a closed inland lake when glacial and flood deposits blocked the flow. Manasarovar is a freshwater lake, while Rakshas Tal is saline. It is said the two lakes are connected at the bottom: one is a sacred freshwater lake, the other a salty ghost lake. Rakshas Tal, too, is a striking sight. At noon we had lunch in Paryang, then passed through the Mayum Bridge border checkpoint to Darchen, the small town at the foot of Mount Kailash. The main peak of the Gangdise range, Mount Kailash, stands at 6,638 meters. In Sanskrit, it is called "the paradise of Shiva," while its Tibetan name means "mountain of the spirits." Kailash resembles a pyramid (Tibetans say it looks like the handle of a stone mill), with remarkably symmetrical faces. It is universally recognized as a sacred mountain, and is simultaneously revered by Hinduism, Tibetan Buddhism, the indigenous Bön religion, and ancient Jainism as the center of the world. Kailash's mystery lies in its slopes: on the sun-facing side, for some reason, the snow never melts, remaining a mass of eternal white; on the far side, snow rarely accumulates—even if covered, it melts as soon as the sun emerges, completely contrary to what nature usually does. We stayed overnight in Darchen.
Day five began at dawn from Darchen, driving between Kailash and Gurla Mandhata into the dawn glow, through the earth forest to Zanda to visit the ruins of the Guge Kingdom. The road was rough, with sections under repair. After reaching Zanda and lunch, we headed to the awe-inspiring Guge Palace (Guge Kingdom). The Guge Kingdom ruins are an ancient city on the plateau. The entire site comprises over 300 dwellings and caves, three stupas (each over 10 meters tall), four temples, two halls, and two underground passageways. It is built on three levels, from top to bottom: the royal palace, temples, and residences. The outer perimeter is fortified by city walls, with watchtowers at the four corners. The carvings and murals in the Red Temple, White Temple, and Temple of Reincarnation contain many masterpieces. The Guge Kingdom was established around the 10th century, founded by Gyide Nyimagon, the great-grandson of Langdarma, the last tsenpo of the Tubo Kingdom, who fled to Ngari with followers after the dynasty collapsed. A kingdom with a 700-year glorious civilization, its disappearance remains a mystery. After the visit, we returned along the same road to Zanda town. We also visited Tholing Monastery, over 900 years old, whose architecture and Buddha statues blend the styles of Kashmir, Ladakh, and Nepal—a synthesis of regional influences. From Zanda County, we went to the Zanda Earth Forest, located within Zanda County in Ngari. This landscape was formed over millions of years from the lakebeds of an ancient great lake and river valleys. Spanning nearly several hundred square kilometers, the earth forest is filled with "trees" and "pillars" of all sizes and shapes, and contains early human cave sites. Geologically, the terrain is of lacustrine-fluvial origin, brimming with wild western flavor. That evening we stayed in Zanda.
On day six, we set off from Zanda into the dawn glow to pay homage at Mount Kailash. Kailash, standing in Pulan County of Ngari, is the source of major rivers such as the Ganges, the Indus, and the Yarlung Tsangpo, and is Tibet's most famous sacred mountain. Its shape is like an olive thrust into the sky; the summit is like a seven-colored crown, surrounded by eight-petaled lotus peaks. The mountain appears to be built of crystal. To the east is Treasure Mountain, said to have been stepped upon by Sakyamuni; to the west is Tara Mountain; to the south is the peak of the Goddess of Wisdom; to the north is the great mountain of the protective deities. Every year, many devotees from the interior, India, and Nepal come to circumambulate the mountain. Kailash is also the pilgrimage center for Tibetan Buddhism, Hinduism, and the ancient Bön religion, earning it the title "King of Sacred Mountains." After touring, we headed back to Saga to stay.
Day seven, we drove to the most stunning glacier group of the Himalayas: the Shishapangma Glacier Group. Shishapangma, at 8,012 meters, ranks fourteenth among the world's fourteen 8,000-meter peaks, and is the only one entirely within Chinese territory. Its most captivating feature is the ice tower zone between 5,000 and 5,800 meters, still and exquisite, like a glacier garden. Under the sunlight, the peak gleams brilliantly. Then we drove to Peiku Tso, the largest lake in the Shigatse region, covering over 300 square kilometers, its shores home to various unique plateau species. Continuing towards Mount Everest, along gravel roads and over Lalongla Mountain, we passed Peiku Tso again, spotting precious sunbirds, langur monkeys, and other wildlife in groups or alone. We then headed to Everest Base Camp, photographing the folded mountain landscapes of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau and at viewpoints capturing the cluster of Everest's snowy peaks. Next was Rongbuk Monastery (4,980 m), the highest monastery in the world. Looking south from Rongbuk is universally acknowledged as the best vantage point to gaze upon Everest. Then to Everest Base Camp, to advance towards the summit of the Earth, gazing at the world's highest peak, 8,848 meters above sea level. With luck, you might see Everest's banner cloud wafting like the flame of life. As the peaks still slumber in twilight, Everest dons a brilliant dawn robe like a goddess's gown; at dusk, as shadows slowly envelop the mountains, only Everest's summit shines in the sunset like a goddess's golden crown in the sky, enjoying the supreme honor of standing on top of the world.
Day eight: after taking in the sunrise over Everest in the early morning, we headed back to Shigatse. En route we crossed the Gyawula Pass at 5,200 meters. Looking back, the 8,000-meter peaks stretch in a line—the world's top summits undulating, majestic and serene. Overlooking the vast changes on the roof of the world, I was mesmerized by another realm's spiritual shock. We wound our way back to Shigatse, the capital of Tsang.
Day nine: after breakfast, we visited Tashilhunpo Monastery, a Gelugpa Tibetan Buddhist monastery built in 1447. One of the six great monasteries of the Yellow Hat sect and the seat of successive Panchen Lamas, from a distance the entire complex clings to the mountainside. The golden roofs and red walls of the main buildings are grand, massive, magnificent, and resplendent. Inside, incense smoke curls from burners, lamps flicker on offering tables, and the many Buddha statues each bear distinct expressions. In the assembly hall, monks chant sutras in orderly rhythm; before the statues, devotees prostrate in veneration. For over 500 years, it has powerfully drawn Buddhist believers from home and abroad, along with tourists who come to pay homage. The monastery houses a 26-meter-high indoor bronze statue of Maitreya, the largest of its kind in the world, and one can pay respects to the stupa of the 10th Panchen Lama. The Yarlung Tsangpo River originates from the Jemayangzong Glacier in Ngari on the northern slopes of the Himalayas, flows from west to east through southern Tibet, then turns south around Namcha Barwa, the easternmost peak of the Himalayas, and exits China at Pasighat. Upon entering India it is called the Brahmaputra River; in Bangladesh it becomes the Jamuna, eventually merging with the Ganges and emptying into the Bay of Bengal. The Chinese section is 1,940 kilometers long.
After nine days, I had gained so much. I kept wondering what it means to meet a better version of oneself. Standing before Tibet's great mountains, I think the answer is like the verse: "I see how rugged the green hills are, and I should think the hills see me the same way."
Additionally, from October 15 to December 31, 2021, all scenic areas in Tibet (except temple sites) offered free admission.
Finally, here are a few tips for traveling to Tibet:
★ Before entering high altitudes, rest well and conserve energy. For about a week before departure, consider taking Rhodiola rosea or Gaoyuanan, and you can drink American ginseng tea to strengthen the body's resistance to hypoxia. Prepare cold prevention medicines, antibiotics, and vitamins. People with severe high blood pressure or heart disease should not visit Tibet, and do not go with a bad cold.
★ Tibet has a very wide temperature range between day and night; morning and evening temperatures are low. Bring plenty of warm clothing to avoid catching a chill. Even in summer, you should have a jacket and sweater.
★ On first arrival, the dry climate can cause nosebleeds and chapped lips. Bring sunscreen, moisturizer, and lip balm. The intense sun and UV rays can harm your eyes; a sun hat and sunglasses are essential.
★ As Tibet is at high altitude, remember: "Walk slowly, talk less, sleep more, don't drink alcohol, and avoid catching cold." Drink plenty of water, eat more fruit, and get plenty of rest—these are the best ways to prevent altitude sickness. On the night you arrive in Lhasa, do not take a shower. If you experience mild altitude sickness, try to cope; do not use oxygen unless necessary, because later parts of the trip will go even higher, and you don't want to become dependent.
