Footprints of the Soul – A Self-Drive Journey to Ali
From Beijing to Ali (Self-Drive Notes on National Highways 318, 219, 317 & 214)
I had been planning a self-drive trip to Tibet since 2019, but the sudden outbreak of the pandemic forced me to put it on hold... Finally, after much anticipation and silent prayer, D-Day arrived – July 8, 2021. Driving a rented Prado, under a somewhat overcast sky, I set off with my friend Mr. K and his wife. Together, we embarked on a long-awaited journey – destination: the roof of the roof, the Tibet of Tibet...
**July 8 (Day 1)**
Around 10 a.m., as agreed, our two families set off unhurriedly (the guiding principle of our itinerary: no rushed travel, just pure joy at our own pace). The first few days’ schedule was relatively tight, since our destination was Tibet, and we didn’t want to waste too much energy on the road. By dusk, we arrived in Qi County, Taiyuan, and checked into the Mingyi Smart Hotel (114 yuan/night). After dinner, it was straight to sleep.
**July 9 (Day 2)**
After the hotel breakfast (surprisingly, the budget hotel from last night even included breakfast – we almost felt guilty eating too much), we again set off after ten. The plan was to reach Hu County in Xi’an by day’s end. From the outset, we had decided not to easily venture into large or medium-sized cities, instead staying on the outskirts to save time navigating in and out. The journey went smoothly, and we arrived safely, checking into the Starway Hotel (Renmin Road, Hu County branch, 164 yuan/night).
**July 10 (Day 3)**
Today we would enter Sichuan, and the wives would surely be delighted – for there, Sichuan cuisine is “plentiful.” But for me and the kid, it would be a struggle: we simply can’t handle “super spicy” food.
After crossing the Qinling Tunnel, we got stuck for over five hours near Liangxin Tunnel in Hanzhong because an overturned truck blocked the road. Rain added to the misery. We were lucky enough to be stuck inside the tunnel; Mr. K and his wife were outside, unable to leave their car or even open the windows wide. It wasn’t until midnight that we reached Guangyuan. We dumped our luggage and went straight for a late-night bite. A cheerful, chubby girl at the front desk of Guangyuan Chunqiu International Hotel (168 yuan/night) recommended a restaurant called “Rang Ya Nao Ke Fei” (Make Braised Duck Heads Fly). Their century egg and lean pork congee was unique – utterly different from Cantonese-style breakfast congee, but delicious and packed with ingredients.
**July 11 (Day 4)**
From Guangyuan to Ya’an. Ya’an sits at just over 600 meters above sea level. Heading west from Ya’an meant finally setting foot on National Highway 318. We stayed at Ya’an Shuxi Jiayuan Hotel (165 yuan/night). Parking was available both right in front of the hotel and in an underground garage accessed through the adjacent residential compound entrance. The hotel’s top-floor breakfast area offered a panoramic city view. Something unfortunate happened: on the way to dinner, Mr. K twisted his ankle. For the next two or three days, we’d probably have to rely on his wife’s driving skills.
From now on, once on Highway 318, we’d need to pay more attention to parking convenience when booking hotels. Before reaching Bomi, most towns were squeezed into narrow valleys, and parking space was generally tight.
**July 12 (Day 5)**
The real 318 self-drive began. Passing through Luding [altitude: 1,330 m], visiting the Luding Bridge required queuing and wearing masks. Since the altitude was starting to climb, we deliberately kept the first few days’ itinerary loose, giving our bodies time to acclimatize. That night, we stayed in the holy land of love songs – Kangding [2,390 m]. I tried to find that girl who wears ethnic costumes and does live streams on Douyin, but failed, so I gave up and went back. After dinner, we hit the sack. We checked into Kangding Xinyue Qingcheng Hotel (214 yuan/night). The inn was inside a residential compound that housed many guesthouses. Parking was available but tight; however, the hotel owners – a very warm-hearted couple – were in charge of coordinating and rearranging cars.
**July 13 (Day 6)**
Today marked our first crossing of a high-altitude area – Zheduo Mountain [4,298 m]. Later, because Gaode Maps reported a traffic jam on Highway 318, we detoured and unexpectedly crossed Gao’ersi Mountain [4,412 m]. I was just slightly short of breath and had ear pressure, but nothing too uncomfortable. One warning: avoid the toilets at Zheduo Mountain unless absolutely necessary – the smell easily triggers altitude sickness.
Perhaps thanks to taking Rhodiola in advance, or because we had paced ourselves gently and slept well, virtually no one in our group suffered from altitude sickness. We reached Yajiang [2,530 m] smoothly and spent the night at Yajiang Tule Holiday Hotel (144 yuan/night), 24 kilometers before Yajiang town. The hotel was right beside Highway 318, with its own restaurant, a supermarket, and a huge open area in front, making parking extremely easy. Backed by mountains and facing a river, the scenery was lovely.
**July 14 (Day 7)**
Heading for the last stop before entering Tibet – Batang. We had to pass Kazila Mountain [4,429 m] and “Sky City” Litang [4,000 m]. Having had little physical reaction over the past two days, during our rest in Litang, Mr. K and I started smoking recklessly. After that came Haizi Mountain [4,685 m] and Sisters’ Lakes. The viewing platform was packed with cars, so we moved on to the next one, but the photo angle wasn’t ideal.
In the evening, entering Batang [2,580 m] we ran into a traffic jam. Luckily, we had booked the Batang Meiyu Grand Hotel (195 yuan/night) on a different street, so we avoided the congestion. After dinner, I went to the front desk to ask about breakfast hours, and that question saved our schedule: breakfast ended at 7:30 a.m. The staff said everyone had to start early because the Jinsha River Bridge into Tibet would be closed from 8 a.m. every day, only reopening for two hours at noon. So, we late-risers resolved to break routine – we’d wake at 5:30 the next morning and set off at 6:00 sharp.
**July 15 (Day 8)**
Battling our body clocks, we departed exactly at 6 a.m. The entire Jinsha River bank was under construction. By 7 a.m., we had smoothly crossed the Jinsha River Bridge – we had finally entered Tibet! Then we drove along mountain roads until reaching the first public security checkpoint in Tibet, where we queued for a while... Around noon, we arrived in Mangkang County [3,875 m]. We grabbed a hasty breakfast and bought a case of “Baisuishan” mineral water (500 ml × 24 bottles, 75 yuan) from a nearby supermarket. Then we pressed on.
After crossing Lawu Mountain [4,338 m] and several other passes, we reached our first 5,000-meter pass – Dongda Mountain Pass [5,008 m]. We played around for a bit. My wife finally started to feel a headache. Our kid, on the other hand, claimed no discomfort at all – but a pulse oximeter test showed 70% and 68% oxygen saturation respectively. Hastily we pulled out the oxygen cans we’d prepared and took a few puffs, then galloped downhill. (I’d read online: below 70% saturation can get dangerous fast.)
Once over Dongda Mountain, Zuogong [3,877 m], the first stop in Tibet, wasn’t far. We chose a hotel run by a Tibetan family: Zuogong Quxiu Niancang Hotel (333 yuan/night). Located in what seemed to be Zuogong’s new district, it had clean streets, ample backyard parking, and convenient dining options nearby. That evening, we sampled yak hotpot.
**July 16 (Day 9)**
Breakfast included butter tea and baozi – help yourself. Only one egg per person (understandable: apparently, chickens on the plateau don’t lay eggs). After breakfast, since Mr. K’s family were still asleep, I took my “little master” out for a stroll and discovered a fitness trail on the hill behind, with a view overlooking the new district.
Today we had to tackle the Nujiang 72 Turns. On the way, we spotted a sign for Tiantuo Monastery [4,000 m] and turned off to take a look. Not many people around. It’s one of the three major monasteries in Zuogong, known for its wood-core clay sculptures and gilded Buddha statues.
Then came the Nujiang 72 Turns – both wives vied for the driver’s seat. The whole stretch went smoothly. That evening, we settled in at Baxoi [3,280 m] at Yaotai Business Hotel (264 yuan/night).
**July 17 (Day 10)**
Around noon, I washed the car at the hotel (free facility) before setting off. Back in Zuogong, we’d heard that the road from Baxoi to Ranwu had been severed by a mudslide, but luckily it had just been repaired.
We glimpsed Anjiula Mountain [4,325 m] from afar. When we reached Ranwu Lake [3,850 m], a checkpoint caused a jam, so we first took the south fork towards Upper Ranwu. The road was rough, but the scenery was far more beautiful than what we later saw at Middle and Lower Ranwu. After 4 p.m., we returned to the checkpoint to queue. That day, we passed two public security checkpoints before finally reaching Bomi.
Bomi [2,725 m]: Jiaheng Glacier Theme Hotel (305 yuan/night). On a clear day, you can see the glacier from here, but the clouds never fully lifted before we checked out. Still, the hotel was right by the river, and its second-floor tea room offered an unobstructed river view. Besides courtyard parking, there was also a free parking lot next door and a petrol station right nearby – very convenient.
**July 18 (Day 11)**
On the way to Nyingchi, we passed the Tibetan King’s Cave, then reached what was once a formidable obstacle and is now a smooth passage – Tongmai Bridge [2,070 m]. Another sight here is the “confluence of two rivers”: the Yigong Tsangpo and Palung Tsangpo. Right then, however, this humble monk’s large intestine began to churn violently, so I paid a “memorial” visit to the public toilet by the bridge.
Continuing on, we arrived at Lulang, which had many artificial scenic buildings – not very interesting, in my opinion. Next, we headed to Sejila Mountain [4,559 m], a prime viewpoint for Namcha Barwa Peak. Unfortunately, rain and clouds persisted – we saw nothing – and it was rather cold, so we didn’t linger and raced down, throwing ourselves into the embrace of “Switzerland of Tibet.” I’d planned to take a break in Nyingchi [3,100 m] and had booked a very nice guesthouse – Nyingchi Yiyinju Holiday Health Hotel (600 yuan/night, found online; I bargained directly with the landlady via WeChat). That night, we tasted the Medog stone-pot chicken.
**July 19 (Day 12)**
A lazy day: drinking tea in the courtyard, smoking, filling up the tank, and a series of eating and drinking...
I failed to book pure-entry tickets to the Potala Palace (no group tour, no shopping) – the tickets were virtually monopolized by travel agencies.
**July 20 (Day 13)**
Headed for Lhasa. Before setting off, I deliberately went to the Nyang River to test-fly my drone, little knowing it would be its final performance. Then we also bought a Medog stone pot.
The whole way from Nyingchi to Lhasa could now be traveled on the Lin-La Highway (essentially an expressway, not yet tolled), and Mila Mountain was crossed through a tunnel, saving a lot of time compared to sticking to Highway 318. Before entering the city, we made a detour to Ganden Monastery, the ancestral monastery of the Gelug school. Unfortunately, we arrived a bit late and ticket sales had stopped, so we only saw the exterior – still quite impressive.
At the Lhasa public security checkpoint, my drone was forcibly sent home by mail – all because our country’s “big cats” were visiting... We were to stay three nights in Lhasa [3,650 m] and chose a hotel not far from both the Potala Palace and Jokhang Temple: Xana Hotelle (Potala & Jokhang branch, 541 yuan/night). Although parking in the courtyard was tight, there were security guards who specialized in managing cars: you just handed over your keys, told them when you needed the car, and the hotel took care of shuffling vehicles around. Restaurants and supermarkets were all around.
**July 21 (Day 14)**
We slept in, then walked to Barkhor Street and Jokhang Temple. Having failed to get pure-entry Potala tickets online, and unwilling to join a full-day “shopping group” tour from a travel agency, we simply visited Potala Square. Mr. K shot those trendy “mirror of the sky” photos for the ladies, then we headed back to the hotel. We chose a hotpot place next door for dinner; there was also a sushi shop – my kid’s favorite – so we packed some to eat in our room.
**July 22 (Day 15)**
We’d planned to visit Drepung Monastery, but when we were almost there, the road was blocked – the monastery wasn’t receiving visitors today, again because of the “big cats.” Today’s Jokhang Temple, Barkhor Street, and so on were all closed to the public too. A friendly Tibetan officer told us Sera Monastery was still open, so we headed straight there. At Sera, we hired a young guide to explain things (100 yuan) and even watched a monastic academic activity – debate.
**July 23 (Day 16)**
Today’s plan: go to Rituo Monastery, then sleep in Gyantse, visiting Yamdrok Lake [4,440 m] en route. We left the hotel around 11 a.m. Because I tried to save a few cents by going to a petrol station with a discount, we took a detour. Just after fueling up, we ran into the “big cats” leaving Lhasa for Nyingchi, and traffic control delayed us another half hour. On the way, crossing Jiaruo La Pass [4,700 m], the scenery was so beautiful we played around for an hour.
By the time we reached Rituo Monastery, it was already 4:30 p.m., so I promptly canceled our Gyantse hotel. Rituo Monastery is famed as “one monk, one temple, one lonely island” – though it now has three lamas, it’s still Yamdrok Lake’s loneliest temple.
Exiting Rituo, we took the lakeside county road: 18 kilometers that took a full two hours! Of course, we could have detoured onto the main highway, but then we wouldn’t have enjoyed the lake up close. Using Gaode, we found a lakeside guesthouse: Yanghu Tribe Family Hotel (315 yuan/night). It was nearly 9 p.m. when we arrived, but luckily they could still cook. We ordered mostly meat dishes, because vegetables here are no cheaper than meat, plus some canned barley wine.
**July 24 (Day 17)**
We continued along the lake – but today it was paved road. Passing Karola Glacier, we almost got tricked into buying tickets. The glacier is right beside the road; as we approached, a barrier was set up, and someone in uniform said we needed tickets to pass. We argued, “We’re not visiting the glacier, just passing through – do we still need to pay?” Our persistent questioning finally got us through. They were just trying to scam whoever they could; you can see the glacier without even stopping. So, they resorted to this shabby trick.
We should have reached Gyantse yesterday, so today we wouldn’t stay overnight. We visited Palcho Monastery. Its Bodhi Stupa (also called “One Hundred Thousand Buddha Pagoda”) has about four stories and is well worth seeing.
In the evening, we lodged in Shigatse [4,000 m] at Super 8 Hotel (Jilin North Road, 212 yuan/night). Located on the northeastern edge of town, it seemed to be near a building-materials street. Restaurants and supermarkets were convenient, and Tashilhunpo Monastery wasn’t far – a walkable distance if you weren’t too exhausted.
**July 25 (Day 18)**
We lazed around town, finding a Shaanxi-style restaurant for lunch: chive pockets and liangpi. We didn’t enter Tashilhunpo Monastery; instead, we drank sweet tea outside, and I bought the kid a Tibetan-style hat.
**July 26 (Day 19)**
Leaving Shigatse, we drove through steady rain. At the 5,000-km milestone on Highway 318, we stopped briefly for photos – but this isn’t the real 5,000-km point, so there’s no need to linger.
Then we left the highway for Sakya County. Inside town stands Sakya Monastery, naturally the ancestral home of the Sakya school. Its sutra wall – the “Ocean of Wisdom Sutra Mountain” – was truly staggering! It should actually be called “Sakya South Monastery,” while there were once 108 Sakya North Monasteries, very few now survive.
Returning to Highway 318, we passed the true 5,000-km stone and – one after another – posed for soaring “aerial” shots. By dusk, we arrived in Tingri [4,350 m] and stayed at the Baiba Hotel (230 yuan/night), right next to the highway. The entire single-story hotel was built around a courtyard, so parking was no issue. Once past Shigatse, hotel parking was hardly a concern: westward, the land grows vast and sparsely populated. Unfortunately, the hotel chef was on vacation, so we ate out (dumplings) and agreed with Mr. K to decide tomorrow, based on the weather, whether to head for Everest Base Camp.
**July 27 (Day 20)**
Waking at past 9 a.m., we saw partly cloudy skies and decided to go for Everest. Actually, the weather here has no bearing on conditions at Base Camp, and whether we’d see the peak mattered less than simply being there – that alone was enough. There’s a petrol station on the way where you can fill up.
Because of the Nanjing airport COVID outbreak, entry checks at the reserve gate were much stricter, taking over twenty minutes to get through. After the 108 Turns, we reached the eco-bus interchange. At Base Camp [5,000 m], the weather shifted between clouds and rain. Our group ducked into a tent, ordered a flask of sweet tea, and waited – but the summit never emerged. We couldn’t be bothered to visit the adjacent Rongbuk Monastery either; Tibet certainly has no shortage of monasteries.
Waiting for the eco-bus to descend, we had a row with some middle-aged package-tourists. These people, who called each other “teacher,” had one or two persons queuing on behalf of an entire group, then saved seats with cameras and bags once aboard – utterly shameless. How can such “teachers” educate the young? All they do is corrupt others tirelessly! (No regional prejudice, just facts: their accents sounded like those from the Jiang-Zhe-Shanghai area.) Incidentally, this proved we had completely shaken off altitude sickness – arguing at nearly 5,000 meters, what else could faze us? It also confirmed another point: some so-called “elderly” who demand care on buses, subways, and in hospitals are never to be found in scenic spots or supermarkets, for there they can unleash astonishing physical prowess!
After descending, it was dusk. We went straight to a dumpling shop right next to the hotel – a northeastern-style place. Though pricier than the one we’d tried the night before, the portions were larger (17–18 per serving vs. just 12) and, crucially, they tasted damn good.
**July 28 (Day 21)**
The weather was beautiful today, so we pushed westward! Travel groups (including self-drive convoys) taking the Qinghai-Tibet Highway all turn back to Lhasa here. Our route – into Ali and the Northern Route – meant the real journey had just begun: a transcendence of the soul, into the Tibet of Tibet, the roof of the roof.
On the way, we first spotted Pekutso Lake, north of Highway 219, visible from a great distance. Yet Shishapangma Peak, south of the highway, remained hidden in clouds.
Before entering Saga County [4,600 m], we endured the usual short queue at the public security checkpoint. Saga is small but has everything; probably because most Ali-bound travelers overnight here, it bustles with prosperity. We stayed at Saga Xinji Hotel (265 yuan/night). Parking required going down a slope to a backyard lot, then climbing from the basement level – at high altitude, climbing stairs left us panting heavily.
**July 29 (Day 22)**
In the morning, we had breakfast at a baozi shop opposite the hotel. The baozi were quite good; even my son, who normally shuns them, polished off a steamerful.
Crossing Tujila Pass [4,920 m], we met a young man cycling alone. He said he was a third-year university student, afraid he’d have no time after graduation, so he was using his holiday to ride the Ali circuit – truly admirable.
After Zhongba County, we entered the Ali region. Through several spells of rain, by evening we finally reached Darchen [4,650 m] in Purang County – the best starting point for Mount Kailash. We’d booked Purang Chuanbei Hotel (650 yuan/night) with underfloor heating. The two handsome front-desk lads assured us, “Feel free to shower in our hotel – you won’t catch cold.” The rooms were huge, the courtyard parking ample, and there were a couple of eateries near the gate. That night, with decent weather, we could see the summit of Kailash right from the hotel entrance.
**July 30 (Day 23)**
We had no intention of doing the Kailash kora, so we didn’t buy tickets to enter the scenic area. Following the front desk’s directions, we drove back onto Highway 219 toward Zhada for a short distance and found a roadside viewpoint under development, with tents. Once completed, you’d be able to sip sweet tea while enjoying the mountain. If you aren’t here to circumambulate, there’s really no need to pay for entry – the views and angles of the sacred peak from Highway 219 are picture-perfect. That day, though, clouds lingered and the summit never fully emerged.
After waiting about an hour, we turned back to Manasarovar, the holy lake. Ropes had been strung around it, requiring tickets to reach the shore. But in many places, you could simply step over the rope to get quite close to the water. We did precisely that, along with several other visitors.
Next, we headed to Rakshastal, the demon lake. Here, no one stopped us. A 4WD vehicle could drive right to the lake’s edge; even a red Audi sedan made it. My personal feeling: the demon lake had its own eerie charm, no less than Manasarovar. There were flocks of gulls that you could feed, and to the south rose the “Goddess” – Mount Naimona’nyi.
**July 31 (Day 24)**
After checking out, we took one last spin through Darchen town, saying goodbye. On the road to Zhada, for a long stretch to the right, we could still glimpse Kailash. En route, we visited Gurujiang Monastery. The road was excellent. This monastery is the last remaining Bon temple in the Ali region, partly built on the mountainside. Returning to Highway 219, we found a teahouse for a sweet tea break – then continued.
Enduring “four seasons in ten miles,” we crossed a pass as if it had just snowed and not yet melted. Gradually, the earth-forest landforms began to appear. We crossed the Langqen Tsangpo River (also called Xiangquan River) and entered Zhada County, bathed in sunset...
We would spend three nights in Zhada [3,700 m]: one, to visit the ancient Guge Kingdom; two, to rest and recuperate – after all, this was the lowest-altitude stop in Ali since leaving Shigatse. The booked Zhada Guge Hotel (329 yuan/night) was the local government’s reception hotel, often keeping vacant rooms for official guests, so sometimes rooms were unavailable to travelers despite vacancies. At check-in, the receptionist politely asked if we’d brought a drone. With infinite sadness, I replied: “There once was a DJI drone before us, but we didn’t cherish it...” (My drone had been forcibly mailed home before we entered Lhasa.) And in my mind echoed the verse of French symbolist poet Paul Verlaine: “The monotonous languor saddens my heart...”
**August 1 (Day 25)**
Around noon, we reached the Guge Kingdom ruins, just 18 km from Zhada. We bought four adult tickets; my 15-year-old big kid was honored with free entry. Unfortunately, the Red Hall and White Hall were under renovation and closed. Yet, as we wandered and climbed up and down, we could still clearly hear the distant footfalls of that era, feel the long-lost pulse of that kingdom, and sense its sealed-away glory...
We wanted dumplings for dinner and found a “Northeast Dumpling” place online, but it ended in great disappointment. Looking back, everyone agreed these were the worst dumplings of the trip – no contest, no rebuttals accepted.
**August 2 (Day 26)**
In the morning, I went alone to “Jinling Xiaolong Bao,” which had good reviews on a certain app. The taste suited me, so I packed some back for Mr. K and my kid – met with applause.
Originally, we planned to visit the National Earth Forest Park. Following the navigation, there was no park sign, just a road – utterly bewildering, though the surrounding landforms were indeed earth forests. We soon turned back to town. Passing Tolin Monastery, we thought of looking in, because the remains of the great translator Rinchen Zangpo are enshrined there. The monastery is free for locals (most Tibetan monasteries are free for local worshippers), but tourists must pay in cash. I didn’t have enough on me, so I sighed, “This monk is fated not to see this monastery!” Besides, this temple had been rebuilt elsewhere anyway – perhaps not worth the visit.
**August 3 (Day 27)**
Leaving Zhada for Shiquanhe. Following the advice of a police officer at the checkpoint on our way in, and after asking a girl at a petrol station, we took County Road 701 – a route that wouldn’t show up on Gaode navigation. The road seemed newly opened, the same one we’d taken yesterday towards the National Earth Forest Geological Park. Following signposts, we turned left off the county road to Xiayigou’s multicolored earth forest – definitely worth seeing. Inside the gully, the road was all dirt tracks like dry riverbeds; a bit easier to drive with an SUV.
We returned to County Road 701 and soon turned right, heading for the Donggar-Piyang ruins – another Guge Kingdom site, far less visited. At a teahouse below the mountain, we bought tickets (50 yuan each; the kid free again). Very luckily, the elderly caretaker of the murals led us inside a cave to see them. Having no suitable gift, I gave him a pack of “Nanjing Twelve Beauties” cigarettes as a token of thanks. After coming down, we lingered over sweet tea at the ticket teahouse. We met a Tibetan driver who specialized in chartered tours. In casual chat, he told us about Biru’s skull wall and Sapu Glacier, so we adjusted our route to see those later.
Leaving Donggar-Piyang, we crossed two passes over 5,200 meters and finally rejoined Highway 219, driving smoothly all the way to Shiquanhe. Entering Shiquanhe [4,280 m], it was nearly 8 p.m. The checkpoint took ages: an ambulance led a convoy of vehicles into town, heading to a designated hospital. After scanning codes, taking temperatures, signing a pledge, and a whole series of procedures, we finally proceeded to our booked Ga’er Tianshang Business Hotel (252 yuan/night). The hotel was on the second floor, no elevator. In the parking lot, the hotel’s big dog enthusiastically welcomed us first – and coaxed several snacks out of us in the process...
**August 4 (Day 28)**
We’d been on the road for quite a while and were feeling a bit “heaty” – every time I ate, my gums ached. Mr. K’s wife recommended metronidazole: cheap and effective, but I worried about buying it back in Beijing (because it’s so inexpensive). Before heading to Pangong Lake, we found a pharmacy and got two boxes (100 tablets each) at 12 yuan per box – stocking up for future road trips.
Shiquanhe to Pangong Lake wasn’t far, but the entire road had a speed limit of 60 km/h – it was bloody murder. Although Pangong Tso is a border lake between China and India, India was probably still hundreds of kilometers away. Being the westernmost point of our trip, there were few tourists; some had come from Xinjiang. Pangong marked our western turnaround point; from here, we began the homeward journey.
We returned to Shiquanhe that evening. If we stayed in Rutog County near the lake, tomorrow’s drive to Gerze would be much harder. Along the Northern Route (Highway 317), the altitude hovers above 4,400 meters. Key to avoiding altitude sickness was good rest and avoiding overly long drives – one reason why, since hitting Highway 318, no one in our group had serious altitude symptoms.
**August 5 (Day 29)**
We officially embarked on Highway 317, the Ali Northern Route. Compared to our first days on 318, the contrast was night and day: barely any vehicles in sight, high altitude but gentle terrain. We began experiencing “lake upon lake”: first, a blue-and-white lake not far off the road – Gaode didn’t label it, so we checked Baidu Maps and found it called “Nyer Tso.” Our first salt lake of the trip; everyone was excited, and we tarried long before reluctantly leaving.
Then came Biereyong Tso, Wuma Tso, and others. Wuma Tso under the setting sun was the most stunning – its water a surreal turquoise, almost too perfect to be real.
By evening we reached Gerze [4,430 m] and checked into Gerze Ziruisheng Grand Hotel (214 yuan/night), on the southern edge of town, about a kilometer east of a petrol station. It seemed to belong to a logistics company, with a glasshouse-style common hall where guests could chat and sip tea, and take their breakfast.
**August 6 (Day 30)**
It being our first trip to Tibet, and deep into remote Ali, we hadn’t dared to plan the Central Route. But Zhari Namco was hard to give up, so we decided to leave Highway 317 southward toward Coqen County.
That day, we first passed Dong Tso, another salt lake. Perhaps because of the light, the mountain range stretching by the lake resembled the classic painting “A Thousand Li of Rivers and Mountains,” but my phone couldn’t capture what the eye saw. The women tried several times to get close to the wild donkeys by the lake, all in vain.
Turning south off 317, we encountered dozens of kilometers of washboard road, making us doubt we were on the right path – but the navigation insisted. Hardly any other vehicle appeared. Perhaps thanks to that solitude, we saw plenty of Tibetan antelopes and kiangs... After nearly an hour of jolting, we finally hit asphalt, skirted Xia’gangjiang Snow Mountain and a lake with a bird island, and arrived at Coqen County [4,660 m].
Coqen seemed newly renovated: low-rise but mostly fresh-looking buildings. We stayed at Coqen Gaoyuan Yinxiang Hotel (274 yuan/night), again on the second floor needing a climb, but everyone was long since acclimatized. The owner said there were only about a dozen hotels in town. Due to the pandemic surge, many tour groups had canceled, so we still got rooms – in a normal summer, he said, places often filled up. We’d been blessed by the plague.
**August 7 (Day 31)**
Following the hotel owner’s advice, we didn’t go to the ticketed scenic area of Zhari Namco (120 yuan, we’d heard). Instead, we headed south of Coqen, occasionally spotting marmots, and in about 40 minutes reached Coqen Village, right on the lakeshore. No ticket needed; you could drive straight to the water. The free scenery was every bit as magnificent.
Likewise on the owner’s advice, to reach Tangra Yumco we avoided the long national-highway detour and took Provincial Road 205. He claimed only about 40 km of dirt road, but in reality, we endured roughly a hundred kilometers of bone-rattling track – likely saving no time at all. However, we saw countless wild animals: Tibetan antelopes, marmots, again and again. Just as we were about to crack, we finally rolled onto a paved road – only it was still a county road! The feeling at that moment was exactly like the boss in the movie “The Dream Factory,” lying in his village waiting for the Mercedes.
Soon after the asphalt, we glimpsed the Bon sacred lake Tangra Yumco and the divine mountain Daguo Snow Mountain (also called Darguo). Given our habit of starting after 10 a.m., many sights were witnessed close to dusk, lending them an extraordinary beauty...
We planned to overnight in Nyima County. At the turnoff to Wenbu South Village, a pandemic checkpoint told us we might need a nucleic acid test to enter Nyima. Nervously, we arrived outside the county town just as a convoy of Beijing-plated jeeps ahead of us seemed to be holding some paper – maybe test certificates. Since we’d been in Tibet nearly a month, no one had required us to test, so we had nothing but a 14-day all-Tibet green travel code. Miraculously, the police didn’t single us out, and we slipped in behind that Beijing convoy. Thanks to those unknown Beijing brothers!
After nearly 100 kilometers of Provincial Road 205’s “spiritual interrogation and physical torture,” everyone agreed to pause a day in Nyima [4,550 m] and get the car serviced. From Beijing to here, we’d already clocked over 7,600 km – safety first. Hotel: Nyima County Grand Hotel (410 yuan/night), also appearing to be a government-reception spot, with many uniformed soldiers staying there. Parking in front and in back; several restaurants and a fairly large supermarket downstairs; we replenished supplies.
**August 8 (Day 32)**
Full rest day. We rose near noon, found a nearby auto repair shop on Gaode – very close. The shop was just a small yard with basic equipment, sufficient for an oil change and brake check (the rental company, eHi, had a set reimbursement limit). Afterward, we got the car washed; I must say, they did a remarkably thorough job.
The rest of the time: eating, aimless strolling. The women, somehow, got hold of Tibetan-style aprons... We’d planned to go next to Baingoin and then the Stairway to Heaven at Holy Elephant Gate. But much like the Potala Palace, pure-entry tickets were unavailable – only bundled packages with accommodation and meals. Online word was that the lodging was awful, the food lousy, and the approach involved a nearly 3-hour washboard road one way. Having just survived over a hundred kilometers of merciless pounding on S205, and now somewhat numbed to “lakes,” we decided to skip it – tomorrow, a long haul to Nagqu.
**August 9 (Day 33)**
Today we passed a string of lakes – Dazê Tso, Qagag Tso, Siling Tso, Co’ngoin, Bam Tso, Pong Tso... Siling Tso was the largest, currently Tibet’s biggest lake and still expanding yearly. We didn’t look for any “scenic spot” entrances; it seemed none of the lakes we’d seen had required a ticket – indeed, there’s no need for designated areas, because as long as you pass by, the scenery descends upon you like the Lord himself (Mark 13:35).
We reached Nagqu [4,600 m] around 9 p.m. and checked into Zangdi Tianxiang Hotel (322 yuan/night). The first and second floors had restaurants; we had hotpot on the first floor for dinner.
**August 10 (Day 34)**
Rest day. Lunch at a nearby Sichuan restaurant; right next to it was a yogurt shop called “Gongsang Tajie.” We bought a big bucket of yogurt back to the hotel. Perfect: we still had lots of unopened glucose oral fluids (brought for altitude sickness prevention) – they went wonderfully with the yogurt.
**August 11 (Day 35)**
Leaving Nagqu, following the directions of the Tibetan driver we’d met in Donggar-Piyang, we left Highway 317 onto Provincial Road 558 towards Biru County. Before reaching the county seat, we visited the famous Damu Monastery Skull Wall. Although damaged during the Cultural Revolution, it had since been restored and repaired to a degree. Inside the main hall of the monastery, I saw for the first time a pandemic registration book in Tibetan.
Across the river lies Redan Monastery, also with a skull wall. It was getting late, so we didn’t cross over.
The next stop: the first bend of the Nujiang River – Chaqu Grand Bend. Much more pristine than Yunnan’s Nujiang bend, a viewing platform was under construction. We climbed up for a quick look, then drove on.
Biru [3,910 m] was a mess of roadworks. As we were about to stop curbside at the hotel, a police car shooed us away: no parking on the streets. Fortunately, Biru Naxiu Grand Hotel (250 yuan/night) had reserved spots in the backyard, with someone to guide us. Biru has no particularly great-value hotels; this one was barely passable. Because we had stayed in Tibet the whole time, we’d never taken a nucleic acid test, so the front desk had to call public security for approval before allowing us to check in.
**August 12 (Day 36)**
To reach Sapu Sacred Mountain (Glacier), we headed south from Biru, over the 5,072-meter Xiala Pass. The first 70–80 km were paved; after passing the scenic-ticket booth, the road became an almost continuous stretch of potholes and craters, with several water crossings. The few smooth sections were short iron bridges. After Outer Lake, we had to drive up a narrow mountainside road to reach Inner Lake beneath Sapu’s peaks. That stretch was very narrow, with few places to pass.
The 18 km from the scenic gate took nearly two hours. We arrived at the mountain base at 4 p.m. and decided to stay at the lakeside guesthouse – returning to Sog or Biru was out of the question. Sacuo Tourist Guesthouse (100 yuan per person per night) [4,700 m]; children not occupying a bed stayed free, but for comfort, we paid an extra 100 for our kid to have his own bunk. Scenic area tickets: 150 per adult; the kid free.
We set up the camping table in front, sipping sweet tea with the mountain in view. A hundred meters ahead, a small hillock gave a view of Inner Lake with un-melted ice floes. Marmots and pikas were everywhere, allowing close-up photos. In the evening, yaks descended from the mountain in long lines. The owner told us that the previous night, a bear had come down to forage. A girl asleep in a car screamed in fright, which scared the bears (Brother Bear and Brother Bear Two) into smashing the car window and tearing up a tent. So, when buying tickets, staff warned against camping or sleeping in vehicles.
**August 13 (Day 37)**
The previous evening had been overcast; this morning, the weather cleared. Sapu revealed its full beauty – truly a reward for all the hardships of getting here. As the saying goes: “When your feet give out, the mountain becomes better.” After snapping a flurry of photos, we hurriedly left before noon – any later, and the inbound Sapu traffic would challenge us on those narrow mountain roads, a scenario no one wanted.
Retracing our way back to Biru, we rested at a Tibetan teahouse, ordering sweet tea, oil cakes, etc. After eating, we set off for Sog County. Gaode wanted us to return to Highway 317 the same way we came on S558, but locals told us about a dirt road shortcut that would only appear on cycling navigation mode. On that detour we crossed Kangqing La Pass [5,300 m] – at this stage, such an altitude felt like a piece of cake!
While descending, Mr. K’s car suddenly stalled and wouldn’t start. A local Tibetan man driving by kindly stopped to help; after much effort, it still wouldn’t fire up. He said the nearest repair shop was over 30 km away, so we had to send one car downhill to find a mechanic who might come up. The Tibetan people are genuinely simple-hearted and warm; this wasn’t an isolated case but a common phenomenon. Luckily, just as we reached the checkpoint at the foot of the mountain, Mr. K called: following friends’ advice over the phone, he’d managed to get the car running and was creeping down slowly. Om Mani Padme Hum, Buddha be praised!
By then it was dark. When we met Mr. K, we didn’t even let him stop – hazards on, we formed up and rolled toward Sog [4,000 m]... After many twists, we arrived at the just-booked Sog So Xiu Xue Yu Hotel (221 yuan/night). Pulling into the courtyard, only two spots remained. Kill engine, check in, eat, sleep. We decided to stay an extra day here so Mr. K could get the car fixed.
**August 14 (Day 38)**
We rose after 9 and drove Mr. K to the auto repair shop, leaving the car with the mechanic.
For lunch, a Sichuan restaurant, then a haircut (35 yuan). Sog’s famous Zanden Monastery looked like a miniature Potala Palace; last night, exhausted from car troubles, we only glimpsed it from a distance – no photos even. Searching my USB drive, the only shot I found was of Sog County People’s Court...
Soon we’d be leaving Tibet. In the evening, we browsed a small shop and bought some Tibetan incense. Finally, we found a Cantonese-style food stall for a change of taste: dry-fried beef hor fun and claypot soup dumplings. After a month of Sichuan food, I was thoroughly sick of it.
**August 15 (Day 39)**
Leaving Sog, next stop: Dengqen. In fact, Zizhu Monastery in Dengqen was the original inspiration for this entire journey. When my wife was still pregnant with our child, the child’s mother happened to meet the abbot of Zizhu, Living Buddha Dingzhen Ese, at Sansheng’an nunnery in Beijing. The living Buddha kindly placed his hand on her head and bestowed blessings, which is how I first learned of Zizhu Monastery and eventually became captivated by it.
The scenery along the way was now very different from the Ali Northern Route’s Highway 317: yellow-and-green patchwork fields dotted the hillsides; the air was moister. The road was also far better than described by earlier travelers, evidently renovated again in recent years. Smooth sailing all the way to Dengqen Chongcao Grand Hotel (275 yuan/night). Parking in front; a hotpot restaurant right next door solved dinner; to the left of the hotel stood the county public security bureau. Also, a baozi shop across the road served excellent baozi. We should have stayed another night in Dengqen [3,850 m], but the extra day in Sog for car repairs meant we would press on directly to Zizhu tomorrow.
**August 16 (Day 40)**
Not far out of Dengqen, we reached the turnoff for Zizhu Monastery. A right turn, then a left, and we were onto the famous forty-some hairpin bends. From Dengqen to the summit of Mount Zizhu took just over an hour in total. Zizhu Monastery [4,800 m] is a 3,000-year-old Yongzhong Bon temple. It leans against six peaks of Mount Zizhu, symbolizing the salvation of all beings in the six realms, and the scenery is uniquely striking. The main hall was under renovation; a monk accompanied us inside. We offered butter lamps to the founder Tonpa Shenrab (WeChat scan to donate). When we asked if Living Buddha Dingzhen was around, the monk said he was currently away – likely still in Beijing compiling the Bon Tripitaka.
Our original plan was to go through Chamdo, Dege, Garze, Changdu Monastery, Barkam, and Chengdu, then back to Beijing. But Sichuan now had COVID cases, and news came that anyone passing through an affected province, marked with a * on their travel code, would be denied entry to Beijing. So we decided to exit Tibet via Riwoche into Qinghai. On the way to Riwoche, we inadvertently saw Quyama Monastery and the 800-year-old Kamaduo Pagoda Forest. A junior-high freshman newly admitted to Nyingchi school enthusiastically gave us a free guided tour, again showing the warmth and sincerity of Tibetan people.
That evening, at our booked hotel in Riwoche [3,800 m], because we had no nucleic acid test certificate, the owner called the local police station – but no one answered, so they didn’t dare let us check in. For every overnight stop, I’d planned two or three backup hotels. We walked 300 meters to the alternative Joyful Hotel (260 yuan/night), and there was no problem at all. We checked in immediately; across the street was yet another Sichuan eatery for dinner.
**August 17 (Day 41)**
The morning in Riwoche was very peaceful. I ate breakfast alone at last night’s spot while everyone else slept. I packed some dumplings (frozen ones) for the kid.
Today, we would leave Tibet. Strangely, a queer sensation stirred within – something felt out of joint, undeniably. Could it be I was truly poisoned? Because almost everyone who’s been to Tibet says: Tibet is addictive! Indeed, a deep feeling welled up from the depths of my torso, winding and looping, coursing up my gut and esophagus – “urp” – a sigh, half belch, half not...
After leaving Tibet, we smoothly entered Yushu [3,700 m], Qinghai, via the Qieza checkpoint. Along the way, painted murals often appeared on the mountain walls, though judging by their vivid colors, they were relatively new.
We checked into Yushu Qinggan Hotel (364 yuan/night) with backyard parking, and had to register via the “Healthy Qinghai” app with a QR code.
**August 18 (Day 42)**
We visited the famed Gyanak Mani Stone Heap. Vehicles aren’t allowed inside; there’s roadside parking. This is the world’s largest mani stone heap, estimated at around 2.5 billion stones. Believers continuously circumambulated it. A few women secretly prodded children to beg money from tourists – something we’d never once encountered in Tibet. Clearly, here the pure innocence of Tibet’s heartland was fading.
On our return, we took a look at Jiegu Monastery; it was closed due to the pandemic. This monastery was originally Nangqen, a Bon temple, later rebuilt into a Nyingma monastery called Great Jiegu, and finally transformed into a Sakya temple by the 20th Sakya throne holder.
After Jiegu, we went to King Gesar Square for coffee and chatting until dark and rain sent us back to the hotel.
**August 19 (Day 43)**
Today was this humble monk’s birthday. We’d be driving over 11 hours to Xining [2,260 m]. Once out of Tibet, there was little scenery left to captivate me, and I feared bumping into any COVID trouble, so we hurried up. The Yushu–Xining expressway was damaged in last year’s Maduo earthquake; the Yematan Bridge still wasn’t repaired. Taking National Highway 214 was smooth, and we could rejoin the expressway past Maduo. In hindsight, we should have stayed on 214 – it wasn’t slower than the expressway, which not only charged tolls but also forced us to stop frequently to kill time because of countless speed-control sections.
After the Gonghe toll station, we met no more checkpoints all the way to the hotel: Xining Haiyue Hotel (172 yuan/night). Parking was tight due to entertainment venues in the hotel, especially earlier at night. The nearby Qingzhen Gamusa eatery was quite good, though it only opened in the evening and ran till 4 or 5 a.m. – likely catering to the nightlife crowd.
**August 20 (Day 44)**
Rest day. I’d been to Xining before, so our two families wandered separately. We had beef noodles and bought a type-C charging cable to replace the one in the car that was losing contact. Mr. K specially bought a pile of cakes back to the hotel to give me a belated birthday celebration. Tomorrow, we’d split up: Mr. K heading to Shapotou in Zhongwei, Ningxia; we’d been there twice already, so we aimed for Qingyang in Gansu.
**August 21 (Day 45)**
Xining to Qingyang: nearly 700 km, about 8–9 hours. So, breaking tradition, we set off at 9:30.
All day: tunnel in, tunnel out. Just when we were almost in Qingyang, the heavy rain forecast arrived right on schedule. Roads were badly flooded, causing the car to hydroplane and swerve; once we nearly brushed the guardrail...
In Qingyang [1,400 m], we chose a hotel on a commercial street: Qingyang Meilun Lizhi Hotel (184 yuan/night). Courtyard parking, essentially mall parking – not spacious but usually a spot could be found. Note: the hotel only gives one parking coupon per day. However, eateries and shops were within walking distance.
**August 22 (Day 46)**
We planned to stay three nights in Qingyang, waiting for Mr. K to catch up from Zhongwei. Aside from wandering, we ate a buffet lunch called “Noodle Belly” and went to the North Grottoes Temple just outside town. Dating back to the Northern Wei dynasty, it was under renovation, so only a few caves were open. Cave 165, the most representative with its Northern Wei carvings, normally prohibited photography – but I couldn’t resist and secretly snapped a few.
**August 23 (Day 47)**
Souvenir shopping: Qingyang sachets. We bought several “donkeys” – can’t return from a long journey empty-handed.
**August 24 (Day 48)**
Given pandemic restrictions in Shaanxi and Shanxi, today we’d cross two provinces into Hebei and rendezvous with Mr. K in Xingtai. Another 11-hour drive; switching drivers, it wasn’t tiring. We overnighted at Xingtai Yabin Business Hotel (Kaiyuan Temple Park branch, 143 yuan/night), with parking out front and underground. Downstairs were food stalls, where we had a “farewell dinner.” Tomorrow, we’d enter Beijing and go our separate ways.
**August 25 (Day 49)**
We slept in. Only 400 km to Beijing, and aside from the city checkpoint, nothing should delay us; arriving late at home mattered little. At 11 a.m., we embarked on the final leg. We stopped at Baoding service area for donkey burgers – originally, we’d planned to eat in Baoding and also pack some of the famous “Baiyunzhang” beef and lamb fillings, but the pandemic restrictions forbade it... The Beijing entry checkpoint took some time, but the check itself was surprisingly simple: they only looked at our ID cards, not even the travel code. On reflection, it made sense – with all the layered checkpoints along the way, anyone with an issue would never have made it here.
At 5 p.m., we pulled into the home parking garage. Unload, wash the car, refuel, return the rental...
A self-drive journey lasting 49 days, nearly 12,500 kilometers. Safe and complete – the circle closed!
Here, I kneel in gratitude to the Buddha, all deities and bodhisattvas, for their blessings from high above, bestowing welfare and keeping me safe! 卍 Om Ma Zhi Mo Ye Sa Le De 卍
Namo Amitabha Buddha
Namo Guanyin Bodhisattva
Namo Medicine Buddha
Months after our return, I began recording this self-drive journey. Every detail and scene still stirs my heart, long after the event. With my traveling companion Mr. K, I often feast and talk over the joys and regrets of the trip. I pay more attention to Tibet-related content on Douyin and Kuaishou. To have completed a circuit drive through Tibet at fifty is profoundly gratifying. I’m also mulling whether, one day, I can re-enter that sacred realm and reshape my life anew—Tibet, very likely, I will visit again...
— Beijing, home, December 15, 2021
**Tips & Reflections:**
1. Altitude sickness can be prevented: Avoid long, rushed drives. Ensure adequate sleep. Don’t plan a frantic itinerary (no offense to package tours, but group travel, even self-drive convoys, inevitably imposes rushed schedules that can’t guarantee proper rest). Start slowly, gradually increasing the altitude of your overnight stops to let your body adjust. Also, the much-debated Rhodiola and glucose are worth preparing. Reactions vary, but they certainly don’t hurt, and even as placebos, their psychological comfort can be effective.
2. You don’t always need to buy scenic-spot tickets. Many sights are best appreciated from a distance and disappear up close, and no wall can truly enclose them. Online ticketing often forces bundled packages with shopping, meals, and accommodation – but pure-entry tickets are almost impossible to secure. Think carefully before booking to avoid regret and frustration.
3. If time and budget allow, I strongly recommend going to the Ali region and the Northern Route. Merely taking Highway 318 to Lhasa, Shigatse, or Everest Base Camp falls far short of experiencing the real Tibet. In Ali and the Northern Route, there’s none of the endless traffic and elbows on 318; your joyfully captured landscapes won’t be photobombed by random aunties and uncles.
**Travelogue Contents:**
1. Departure
2. Along the 318
3. Westwards
4. Into Ali
5. Lake Upon Lake
6. Dreaming Back to Dengqen
7. The Road Home
8. Epilogue
9. Appendix
