First Visit to Lhasa in Winter: Recording the Beauty
Unable to go home for the New Year because of the pandemic, and unwilling to let the long Spring Festival break slip away, my friend and I hit on the idea of going to Lhasa—a sacred place I’d always dreamed of visiting. And just like that, it was settled, haha. We got nucleic acid tests as required for entering Tibet, packed our bags, and off we went on an impromptu trip.
Day 1: Beijing ✈️ Lhasa (two days before Chinese New Year’s Eve)
We booked flights from Beijing to Chengdu, then on to Lhasa. Our plane took off from Beijing at 9 a.m. and landed at Gonggar Airport in Lhasa around 5 or 6 p.m. (Under Gonggar Airport’s arrival policy, you’re required to take an on-the-spot test. All travelers were directed onto a bus and taken to a hotel near the city, where we got tested and were only released after clearing. A big thumbs up 👍 to Lhasa for its thorough epidemic prevention.) By the time we got to the city center it was already 8 or 9 p.m. We hailed a taxi straight to the hotel, which was close to the Potala Palace, and then went out to admire its night view. For our first dinner in Tibet we had a yak hotpot, a local speciality—generously loaded with big chunks of beef, mushrooms, and other fixings. It was incredibly hearty and satisfying. After that we headed back to the hotel. Day one came to a close.
Day 2: Lhasa → Yamdrok Lake → Pumoyumtso (one day before Chinese New Year’s Eve)
We had pre-booked a day tour to Yamdrok Lake. The group numbered about 12 people. Pick-up at our hotel was at 9:30 a.m., but we needed to apply for a border permit, which took around two hours. It wasn’t until 11:30 a.m. that we really set off for Yamdrok Lake. I have to say, just the scenery along the way was already enchanting—blue sky, towering mountains, quietly flowing rivers, and the occasional yak, serenely basking in the sun or lazily grazing. After about an hour or two of winding mountain roads, a glowing blue ribbon appeared before our eyes—yes, the legendary Yamdrok Lake, which I’d only ever seen in photos, now right in front of me. The real scene was breathtaking, beautiful beyond words. The jade-like waters shimmered, sunlight dancing bright ripples across the surface, a view so beautiful it soothed your soul. You just wanted to stand there in silence, taking it all in. Unfortunately, to keep our tight schedule, we only had about an hour before moving on. The scenery continued to be stunning, and after another hour or so we reached Pumoyumtso, also known as Maiden Lake, at an altitude of 5,010 meters. Because it was winter, the entire lake had frozen over; looking down through the ice you could see countless white ice blocks and deep cracks—quite a spectacle. Our guide even flew a drone to get aerial shots. Snowcapped mountains framed the frozen lake, and the deep blue sky set off the white snow—another awe-inspiring sight. By the time we finished at the lake it was getting late, so we began the return journey. On the way back, when we passed near Yamdrok Lake again, we were treated to a sky full of brilliant stars—so bright, so clear. The night sky over Tibet is truly incomparable. Stars that can shine with such radiance… it truly moved me. (Ps. I felt a bit of altitude sickness above 5,000 meters, but I didn’t need oxygen. Once we descended to around 3,000 meters, it basically went away.) We arrived back in Lhasa around 10:30 p.m., grabbed a taxi to the hotel, and thus ended the second day, immersed in so much beauty.
Day 3: Potala Palace → Jokhang Temple → Ramoche Temple (New Year’s Eve)
Visiting the Potala Palace in winter is free—entirely free—and there’s no queueing. Just book one day in advance. How lucky! I’d heard that in peak season tickets can be scalped for over a thousand yuan and you may have to queue for hours. Thanks to the seasonal advantage, it took us about two hours to walk from the base to the top of the palace. From the upper levels you can look out over the city of Lhasa. Sunlight on the palace’s white walls makes them gleam with an almost pristine glow. You just want to stand quietly, taking in every sight and sound, cleansing your heart, emptying your mind. After the Potala Palace, in the afternoon we visited Jokhang Temple and Ramoche Temple. The Barkhor Street area was really bustling, packed with people—mostly Tibetan pilgrims, reverently circumambulating. The queue for the main hall stretched around the temple nearly one and a half times. We didn’t join it; we just wandered in the Barkhor Street area, using our eyes to take in the devotion and faith of the Tibetan people. Quietly, quietly, just observing. Not adding to the crowd.
Day 4: Drepung Monastery → Sera Monastery (New Year’s Day)
On the first day of the new year, I purposely chose these two monasteries within Lhasa to pay homage. In the morning we went first to Drepung Monastery, a 20-minute taxi ride from the hotel. The entrance fee was 60 yuan. Once inside, we followed mountain paths and stone stairs, gradually realizing there was something extraordinary about this place. And we were lucky enough to witness the monks chanting—a truly impressive scene. So that’s how they chant! Drepung Monastery houses many sacred Buddha statues, large and small. I’m no expert, so I won’t say much more—just walk and observe. It struck me then why they call visiting Lhasa a pilgrimage. Lhasa is, without a doubt, a holy city, a place of pilgrimage. Grateful for everything I’ve encountered, grateful for what I’ve felt, grateful for Lhasa. In the afternoon we headed to Sera Monastery (entrance 50 yuan), where we saw the famous debate sessions. Monks in crimson robes, some seated, some standing, fiercely debating the scriptures with great passion. That scene brought another moment of realization: ah, so this is what scriptural debate looks like! Once again my horizons broadened, my understanding deepened.
Day 5: Zaki Temple → Norbulingka → Lhasa River (second day of the new year)
On the second day of the new year, our original plan was to take the train to Shigatse’s Tashilhunpo Monastery. But in the morning, arriving at Lhasa railway station, we found that boarding had closed a full seven minutes early. We missed the train! That was a disappointment, but maybe Lhasa wanted me to stay a little longer, haha—that’s how I comforted myself. So, Shigatse didn’t happen, and we changed our plans. In the morning we went to Zaki Temple to pray to the god of wealth. It’s said to be the only temple of its kind in Lhasa. The temple isn’t large, but worshippers thronged there. I bought a few small items at Zaki Temple—after all, it’s a wealth deity’s temple, and maybe spending a little money makes prayers more effective. Haha, just my personal opinion. After Zaki Temple, in the afternoon we headed to Norbulingka, the “Summer Palace of Lhasa,” the former summer residence of the Dalai Lamas and a key national heritage site. It’s not free in peak season, but probably because it was winter, entry was free. It seems winter really is a great time to visit Tibet! After strolling the summer palace, we hopped on an electric scooter to the Lhasa River area. Surrounded by mountains, Lhasa is blessed with this quiet, gently flowing river—so peaceful, so pleasant. This is Lhasa.
Day 6: Lhasa → Xining → Beijing (third day of the new year)
The return trip. My short six-day, five-night Lhasa journey ended just like that. I’d given myself too brief a holiday; I still hadn’t fully understood this holy city, and there were so many sacred mountains, lakes, and sites I hadn’t yet visited. Maybe that’s how travel should be: a touch of regret sparks the next departure, new hopes, new energy, new vitality. Until we meet again, Lhasa. Until we meet again, Tibet.
