Lhasa 6-Day 5-Night Travel Guide | What to Eat? Where to Visit? All in One Post
If you want to experience the purest local life in Lhasa, without jostling with crowds for photo ops, make sure to visit in winter. Right after the Spring Festival, we seized the tail end of winter and set off on an impromptu trip.
Note: This is a record of our 6-day 5-night trip in Lhasa, covering what to eat and where to go! With lots of pictures and a long read ahead ~ descriptions of food are based on my personal taste, for reference only.
There is no direct flight from Hangzhou to Lhasa; we had to make a stopover in Chongqing, taking nearly 7 hours in total. But the journey wasn't hard at all—along the way we enjoyed delicious Sichuan Airlines meals and the stunning views of snowy peaks on the western plateau.
Warm tip: if possible, choose a window seat when checking in; this kind of scenery isn't something you can see even with a ticket!
After arriving at Gonggar Airport, you can take a shuttle bus to Lhasa city center. The fare is ¥30 per person, and it takes about an hour, which is quite convenient.
Lhasa sits at an altitude of 3,650 meters, so people coming from low-altitude areas may experience varying degrees of altitude sickness, such as palpitations and headaches. A special reminder: the first two days are for acclimatization, and it's best to rest as much as possible.
If you feel mild discomfort, you can buy liquid glucose and Danshen dripping pills at a pharmacy—just go for the cheap ones, no need to buy so-called "altitude sickness medicine."
But if you feel very unwell, it's best to go to the hospital emergency department for oxygen.
Generally, the first night is the hardest. We really couldn't take it, so the next morning we went to "Lhasa People's Hospital" for oxygen (surprise, our first "attraction" was the hospital).
The registration fee was ¥18, and the oxygen therapy was ¥40.3, allowing you to sit and inhale for an hour. Personally, I think it's more reliable than some internet-famous clinics.
Although our guesthouse was right in Lugud Six Alley (near Barkhor Street where Jokhang Temple is), we decided to rest for two days first, just strolling nearby and eating light meals, then arrange sightseeing based on how our bodies felt.
My partner once worked in Lhasa for two years and filmed many food shows, so he's half a local.
Our food targets for this Lhasa trip didn't come from review websites or internet-famous spots. They were all places he and his colleagues still in Lhasa had eaten and enjoyed, so we went with confidence.
Many have rarely appeared in existing guides—stay tuned!
When we arrived at the guesthouse it was already 5 p.m. After a short rest, our foodie DNA kicked in, and we headed out to a nearby Tibetan restaurant for dinner.
Because this place was right near our guesthouse, and our appetite wasn't great due to altitude sickness—we couldn't eat a lot at once but wanted to try many dishes—we ended up eating there twice within two days.
· Stir-fried Pickled Radish with Beef, Served with Flatbread
It was probably the first time I'd tried "stir-fried pickled radish with beef." I was a bit skeptical about the taste, but as soon as it arrived, the colors alone were very appetizing! Combined with the enticing aroma, I couldn't resist picking up my chopsticks.
Crisp pickled radish stir-fried with tender beef, wrapped in a soft naan-like bread—rolled up and popped into the mouth, the texture is wonderfully layered, savory, tangy, and not greasy. Don't forget to add a bit of chili sauce for extra flavor!
· Yogurt with Ginseng Berries
A layer of sugar sprinkled over silken tofu-like yogurt, topped with ginseng berries and a drizzle of yak butter—you've definitely never tried yogurt like this.
Lhasa yogurt is thick, creamy, and flavorful—and yes, quite sour. If you can't handle sourness, ask for more sugar.
The ginseng berries have a texture somewhat like red beans—soft, slightly grainy—adding interest to this "dessert."
Yogurt lovers should give it a try!
· Tibetan-style Hotpot
Unlike regular hotpot, Tibetan hotpot comes already cooked in one pot. Sliced ox tongue and yak meat are arranged around a center of potato noodles, with vegetables underneath.
Eaten plain, it's quite mild, so dip it in the accompanying sauce. The ox tongue is tender, but for a Chaoshan native used to beef hotpot (that's me!), the yak meat felt slightly tough.
The broth is light and sweet—remember to scoop a bowl early and drink it; it's very comforting.
· Cumin Lamb Ribs
I have to say, in a region with pastoral areas, the lamb is quite good.
Unlike simply boiled to enjoy the original flavor, these stir-fried lamb ribs get a boost from spices and chili, making them more flavorful—suitable for those who like stronger tastes. The meat is tender and slides off the bone easily!
Remember to eat them while hot, or the flavor diminishes.
Whether it's yak butter tea or sweet tea, in Lhasa they're usually sold by the pound. This place starts at two pounds of yak butter tea, served in a roughly 900 ml thermos.
If it's your first time in Tibet, I suggest starting with sweet tea—the taste is easier to get used to.
Yak butter tea has a more distinctive flavor—a strong milky taste with a thick oily sensation, double the intensity. My first time drinking it was a bit challenging ~
Overall, though, it's decent Tibetan food. I'd recommend it for first-timers wanting to try Tibetan cuisine!
Maybe because there are many Sichuan people in Lhasa, one of the most famous snacks here is Ganzi yellow jellied bean noodles. And when talking about Lhasa's jellied noodle shops, many have heard of another one.
The one we visited isn't well-known among tourists, but it's a favorite of many locals.
The shop is small, with just a few tables, so we had to share a table with Tibetan diners—who were very warmhearted and even helped us get chopsticks.
Since we wanted something with broth, we didn't order the signature yellow bean jelly noodles, but opted for wide noodles instead.
These wide noodles are different from the ones in Sichuan hotpot—they are thicker, yet still smooth, springy, and not hard at all.
At first glance, the dish didn't look spicy, so I was about to add more chili. The grandma across from us gestured urgently and said "too spicy." We tried it and, sure enough, it was quite spicy—good thing we didn't add extra.
It's said that for Lhasa people, a day without potatoes is unimaginable. In the streets and alleys of Lhasa, you can see all kinds: boiled potatoes, fried potato chunks, potato chips, potato strips...
The potatoes are boiled until soft and creamy, then topped with homemade chili—a simple yet satisfying dish. This humble deliciousness is what Lhasa people miss most.
On a winter day, eating spicy potatoes on the street with a cup of thick, sweet hot milk topped with a skin of cream—pretty cozy.
Before leaving, we grabbed a grilled sausage to go. Though it looked like an ordinary grilled sausage, the "highlight" was the chili powder on it—way too spicy~!
Spice lovers, go challenge it! We couldn't take it and hurried to the next shop to buy a bottle of water.
Coming to Tibet, how can you skip barley wine? For the purest flavor, skip the packaged stuff—look for homemade barley wine in Tibetan homes; it's wonderfully aromatic.
Actually, almost every household in Lhasa makes their own barley wine, but most tourists don't know they sell it, let alone where to find it.
From the outside, they look like ordinary residential courtyards, with no signs. Enter the courtyard into the home, and you'll see jars of barley wine on the floor, while the family and friends chat happily over drinks.
Note: I forgot to take a photo of the entrance; it's roughly in Lugud Four Alley—ask nearby residents.
The grandma in the yard doesn't understand Mandarin well, so talk to a middle-aged "jo" in the room to arrange your request. A 1.55-liter bottle refill costs ¥12, or ¥10 if you bring your own bottle.
After getting the barley wine, we bought some fried potato chips on the way, then returned to the guesthouse rooftop to enjoy the exclusive view.
Distant snowy mountains, the Potala Palace up close, fried potato chips and barley wine in hand—so pleasant!
But as good as barley wine is, don't drink too much at once, or you'll easily feel bloated ([tears of laughter] don't ask how I know)~
On our third day in Lhasa, we decided to have Indian food and chose Guyard Kitchen, right near our guesthouse.
If the weather is good, you can sit in the courtyard and eat while basking in the sun, but it was overcast when we went, and the wind made us shiver, so we headed indoors.
This is their signature dish—reportedly a north Indian-style chicken curry. The chicken is quite tender, but the portion is a bit small, just a few pieces.
Unlike Japanese curry chicken, the curry flavor isn't strong.
The first taste that hits the palate is sour. Yes, quite sour—likely due to tomatoes and yogurt in the recipe. After the sourness, various spices emerge.
Eaten on its own, it's a bit overwhelming, so a side of butter naan—the perfect match—is a must.
Just looking at the picture is tempting, right? The outside is baked crisp while the inside stays chewy—not dry or hard. The more you chew, the more fragrant it becomes.
Spread a thick layer of butter chicken sauce on the naan, top with a piece of chicken, and take a bite. The butter chicken's flavor becomes smoother, not as sour.
· Masala Chai
I've always loved masala chai—the wonderful collision of spices, milk, and tea is addictive.
But I found the masala chai here a bit mild; the spice flavor was slightly lacking. If you love authentic masala chai, I wouldn't particularly recommend it.
This place was recommended by a friend in Lhasa. Just as we were recovering from altitude sickness, we wanted something hot and soupy, so off we went ~
· Dual-flavor Yak Rib Hotpot
As their signature dish, the yak rib hotpot is a must-order. The staff usually recommends the plain broth, but we wanted to try different flavors, so we went for the dual-flavor pot.
Even the plain broth here is different from the "simple" traditional Tibetan hotpot. On a yak bone stock base, they add king oyster mushrooms, cordyceps flower, white radish, goji berries, and more.
Have a bowl of hot soup before eating the meat—the combination of meat and mushrooms is bound to be delicious, and it feels very nourishing ~ perfect for this Cantonese person.
Both broths contain yak ribs. The plain broth lets you taste the original flavor, while the spicy broth adds a numbing, salty kick.
But both share the same tender, fall-off-the-bone texture.
· Freshly Sliced Yak Meat
Actually, for two people, one hotpot is enough. I suggest eating the ribs first, then adding more meat if needed.
The freshly sliced yak meat is quite firm in texture—it's all about the "meaty" mouthfeel. Compared to the tenderness of Chaoshan hotpot beef, it's a different style. But for meat lovers, as long as it satisfies, it's "good meat"!
On our last day, we were invited to dine with Lhasa friends, and this is a place they often go to. Looking down the street, every shop is called "xx Fragrant Numbing Chicken," but only this one was packed—so you know it's good.
Thanks to them, my first time eating lamb neck and lamb brain was in Lhasa.
True to its name, it's fragrant and numbing. Just thinking about that flavor now makes my mouth water.
Make sure to eat it with the skin on—the skin is springy and, surprisingly, not greasy!
The chicken is tender and, importantly, very flavorful. Anyone who cooks knows that making a whole chicken both tender and flavorful isn't easy.
· Nourishing Lamb Neck
With minimal seasoning, seemingly just boiled, but no gamey taste whatsoever. This lets the natural tenderness and freshness of the lamb neck shine—only high-quality ingredients can be prepared this simply.
The meat on the lamb neck is marbled with fat, which makes the lean meat juicier, while the larger proportion of lean meat balances the richness. They complement each other perfectly.
If you haven't tried it, you absolutely must!
Other dishes included stir-fried lamb cheek and lamb brain... but we were busy eating and chatting and didn't take photos. The flavors were all good. If you're into these cuts, give them a try—though these slightly "adventurous" parts aren't for everyone ~
You might not believe it, but during our five mornings in Lhasa, we ate Tibetan noodles five times. Some were special trips, others were near the guesthouse when we were in a hurry.
Among all the Tibetan noodles we tried, I think the best was at "Gongga Lutu Tibetan Noodles." Not located in a tourist area, but near residential buildings, the decent-sized shop is packed with locals—very lively.
A bit of chili placed at the bottom of the bowl, a large ladle of freshly boiled yak bone broth poured over, add the cooked noodles, sprinkle some diced yak meat and scallions—a bowl of authentic Tibetan noodles is ready.
It sounds simple, but why is this place better?
With an open kitchen, you can see the real yak bones in the big pot. Broth made from such bones is rich and flavorful. Some other Tibetan noodles taste bland—compared to this, they probably skimped on ingredients.
Usually, Tibetan noodles are served with chili; here it's added to the broth, while elsewhere you add your own.
[Photo of another shop's self-serve chili]
The chili seems to be house-made, and flavors vary. This one is aromatic—the chili combined with the yak broth enhances the flavor. If you can handle spice, add extra. But for those who can't, it's still a bit spicy.
You can choose thick or thin noodles here. First-timers should try the thin ones—though they're slightly firmer than noodles on the mainland, they're not hard to chew.
On the first sip, they feel smooth, but once you bite and chew, there's a uniquely sticky texture.
To be honest, as someone used to chewy noodles, I didn't enjoy Tibetan noodles at first. I even thought "the soup is lovely but the noodles are just not for me."
But after eating them many times, I started to love this unique texture. From barely being able to eat a few strands to finishing the whole bowl, what a turnaround!
I hope first-timers don't give up either—slowly, you'll come to appreciate their charm.
For Tibetans, the perfect companion to Tibetan noodles is fried beef pies. But some are too dry and hard on the outside, or the filling isn't well seasoned.
Here, I think the pies are just right—crispy crust, soft inside, and the filling is generous with lots of beef for 5 yuan, a great value! And it's well-seasoned—beef and scallion aromas are irresistible ~
Of course, tastes differ. Having tried a few places, I'm only a novice among locals. If you have Tibetan friends, let them take you to their favorites, and you likely won't be disappointed ~
There was still so much we wanted to eat, but we visited during the transition between the Spring Festival and Tibetan New Year. Some restaurants were very "casual"—they just closed until after the Tibetan New Year, so a few times we were met with locked doors.
Tip: before heading to a restaurant, it's best to call ahead and ask if they're open ~
But the few places we did try satisfied this foodie's stomach completely. After all, there will be more chances to come back!
So, the food section ends here for now. Next up, the sightseeing section!
In Lhasa city, focus on cultural experiences—temples, parks, etc. You can usually reach them by bus. If you want to explore nature, I recommend joining a day tour to the surrounding areas; it's much more convenient.
Note: Photography is prohibited inside temple halls. Some photos below are from the internet.
After two days of altitude sickness, we finally felt a bit better on the third day and started our sightseeing.
Our first stop was the only wealth temple in Tibet—Tsaki Monastery. The "God of Wealth" there is called "Tashi Lhamo" in Tibetan.
Tashi Lhamo – image from a friend's WeChat Moments
To pay homage to this female wealth deity, you need to prepare white liquor and a khata (ceremonial scarf). Although some vendors sell them outside, the temple sells them officially inside: khatas ¥1, white liquor ¥8. Fair prices, no need to prepare in advance.
You may also meet locals asking "need change?" at the entrance, but they don't give equal exchange—10 yuan might get you only 7 or 8. Uninformed first-timers might fall for it.
In fact, many Tibetan temples have small tables inside for exchanging cash, piled with 1 and 0.5 yuan notes, so worshippers can exchange freely.
Once inside the hall, exchange some small money first—get plenty to make offerings to each Buddha statue, though it's not mandatory; sincerity matters most.
Then open the white liquor yourself and hand it to the lama nearby, who will pour it into the liquor pool.
Next, give your khata to the lama beside Tashi Lhamo, bow with your head touching the statue, walk clockwise around it, and make your wishes in silence.
Tsaki Monastery has two floors, with many Buddha statues upstairs. After circling the ground floor, you can go up from the side stairs.
Tibetans visit on specific days: Monday for health, Wednesday for wealth, Friday for safety. And it's said that Tashi Lhamo also blesses romantic luck—if you believe, go pay your respects ~
Barkhor Street is a commercial street encircling the Jokhang Temple, preserving much of Lhasa's old city. Along the way, you'll see many pilgrims and circumambulators.
Walk a few clockwise loops; when tired, rest on a bench under the sun (with sunscreen applied), then head into Jokhang Temple to visit and worship.
Warm tip: you need to book Jokhang Temple at least one day in advance, otherwise you won't be able to enter same day.
It's said, "First there was the Jokhang Temple, then there was Lhasa city." This shows its significance.
The Jokhang Temple houses many precious Buddha statues, the most important being the "Jowo Rinpoche"—the life-size statue of 12-year-old Sakyamuni brought to Lhasa by Princess Wencheng.
Jowo Rinpoche – image from the internet
Usually, the chamber holding the statue is locked with iron chains, and people can only view it from afar.
But by chance, we were there when lamas were applying gold to the statue. They unchained it and let us in, so we had the privilege of paying close homage to the Jowo Rinpoche.
Pilgrims say: "To see the Jowo is to see Sakyamuni himself." So to see the statue up close was indescribably moving—I felt a strong karmic connection!
Nearby is the Ramoche Temple, housing the life-size statue of 8-year-old Sakyamuni.
It's said there are only three such statues personally consecrated by Sakyamuni in the world, and two of them are in Lhasa. No wonder so many devotees consider Lhasa a sacred land.
Ramoche Temple is naturally smaller than Jokhang, but the overall style is similar. If you have strong faith, you can stop by, but for sightseeing alone, Jokhang is enough.
Yamdrok Lake is one of Tibet's three sacred lakes, 70 times the area of West Lake.
I heard that in summer, the water glimmers and flows under the sun—very beautiful.
In winter, Yamdrok freezes over with a thin layer of ice. From the viewing platform, the white ice looks like scattered diamonds on the lake's surface—a different kind of charm.
Driving further, we found patches still flowing, and even saw the magical sight of ice on one side and water on the other.
When we reached the lake, we found a sparkling stretch, with a flock of seagulls resting on it. Faced with such beauty, we couldn't help exclaiming: "So gorgeous!!!"
Unlike the frozen parts, the flowing water was gentle, with rippling turquoise waves. Now I understand why it's called "Yamdrok Yumtso" ("Turquoise Lake" in Tibetan).
In one visit, you experience Yamdrok in different seasons—definitely worth it!
It's said that the best winter destination in Tibet is Pumoyum Tso. At over minus 10 degrees, the lake freezes solid, and on sunny days, it looks blue.
Since Pumoyum Tso is far from Lhasa and requires a border permit, we simply joined a day tour for convenience—en route via Yamdrok to Pumoyum Tso.
Pumoyum Tso is colder than Yamdrok, with much thicker ice. Despite the cracks, you can walk safely on the ice and experience real skating.
Ice lake up close, glaciers and snowy mountains in the distance—it felt like we were at the North Pole. Coming from Guangdong, I'd never seen such a sight, and this is probably a once-in-a-lifetime visit, so we soaked in every bit of beauty.
But—you absolutely must dress warmly! In sub-zero windchill, we wanted to take nice photos but ended up covering our legs with another down jacket (smiling on the outside, shivering inside).
Though the trip took nearly 12 hours, I think it's well worth visiting—provided you keep warm and bring enough oxygen tanks, as the altitude is 5,010 meters. Safety first!
Of course, a trip to Lhasa wouldn't be complete without the Potala Palace! During the "Winter Tour of Tibet" period (Oct. 15 – Mar. 10), it's free for tourists, but you still need to reserve one day in advance via the mini-program.
Go early to avoid crowds. We arrived around 9:30 a.m. and even the streets were nearly empty.
As with all Tibetan temples, you can take photos outside, but once inside the palace, it's best to remove hats and sunglasses, and photography is prohibited.
Before entering the main palace, visit the Snow Prison—one of old Tibet's two major prisons. It preserves instruments of torture, and there are even audio-visual recreations of the prison scenes—very chilling (I jumped at one point).
The Potala Palace holds a vast collection of historical relics: murals, stupas, statues, thangkas, scriptures... The most impressive was a 12.6-meter-tall stupa, made with 3,721 kg of gold and inlaid with tens of thousands of gems—truly magnificent.
We were also lucky to meet a young pilgrim monk who kindly explained things throughout. Many monks visit the Potala Palace—if you see something you don't understand but are curious, you can humbly ask them.
Oh, one more thing! Before going to the Potala Palace, get a 50-yuan note, because you'll want to take the classic photo at the "Yaowangshan Viewing Platform" across from the palace. Hee hee!
How many people didn't know the 50-yuan note features the Potala Palace? Raise your hand!
After the Potala Palace, you can stroll in the nearby "Dragon King Pond Park"—said to have formed when soil was excavated during the construction of the White and Red Palaces and monks' quarters.
When we went, there were many bar-headed geese (beware if you fear pointy beaks)!
This can also be visited after the Potala Palace, as it's on the northern side of Yaowangshan. But it's so under-the-radar that I only heard about it from a friend at dinner the previous evening, so we decided to go the next morning.
Unlike other temples, Qianfo Mountain, as its name suggests, has cliffs carved with countless Buddha images of various sizes and styles. Few tourists here; mostly local Tibetans come to worship.
Qianfo Mountain – image from the internet
Opposite is a room where you can light butter lamps for blessings—¥0.5 per lamp.
We had originally planned to light lamps outside the Jokhang Temple, but it was closed for Tibetan New Year. Serendipitously, we found this place and personally lit 100 butter lamps to pray for family and friends.
After leaving Qianfo Mountain, we walked a few more rounds around Barkhor Street, then it was almost time to head back to the guesthouse, grab our luggage, and go home.
Saying goodbye to the guesthouse's handsome dog~
Actually, 6 days and 5 nights is enough if you just explore Lhasa city. But if you're in good shape and want to see attractions in nearby counties, I'd recommend more time—Yamdrok, Pumoyum Tso, and Namtso are all well worth visiting.
Originally, friends invited us to stay a few more days to experience traditional Tibetan New Year customs in a Tibetan home, but we already had travel plans and couldn't make it—a bit of a pity.
Still, these days in Lhasa, we tasted authentic cuisines, admired mountains and lakes, and experienced cultural relics. It was a trip well spent.
Finally, here's a summary of tips for traveling to Lhasa. If you get the chance, you must visit and experience the grandeur of our motherland!