Tibet Self-Drive 318: Let the Beauty of the Snowy Plateau Cleanse Your Soul
The water is melted from icebergs, the mountains veiled in drifting clouds—vivacious, mysterious, and enchanting scenery blooms in this season. Come, let's go to Tibet together and let the beauty of the snowy plateau cleanse your soul. This land boasts magnificent and varied natural beauty, every mountain offering a different view, wrapped in swirling mist. Here, one day can feel like four seasons. As time slips by, either your body or your soul must be on the road.
Tibet travel essentials:
Documents: ID card, driver's license (for car rental), student ID (half-price entry at some scenic spots), and some cash.
Must-haves: motion sickness pills, stomach medicine, band-aids, anti-allergy medication, altitude sickness remedies, portable oxygen canisters, sunglasses (glare is strong; they also help avoid squinting in photos).
Skincare: The UV rays in Tibet are intense. Apply sunscreen and layer on a spray for extra protection. Face masks and moisturizing cream are also advisable. Bringing a small USB humidifier is recommended—not just for hydration, but more importantly to relieve respiratory dryness (essential in winter). In summer, the Lhasa–Chamdo Tea Horse Road route sees more rain, but it is rich in greenery, with vast vegetation and decent humidity.
Clothing: Colorful summer outfits are a must. Sun-protective clothing, a sun hat, and if possible, some Tibetan costumes or ornaments will add an unforgettable twist to your trip. I prepared three sets of Tibetan attire for my daughter, which brought so much splendor and beauty to this journey.
A windproof jacket is essential. The weather in Tibetan areas is unpredictable, with wind and rain hard to foresee, so you need a jacket that can withstand it all.
Photography gear: DJI Mavic 2, Sony A7R III.
Lenses: 12-24mm, 24-240mm, 70-200mm.
High-altitude precautions:
➊ Do not wash your hair or take a shower. At least for the first three days after arriving on the plateau, avoid washing your hair or bathing, especially with hot water.
❷ Keep warm and avoid catching a cold. If you catch a cold at high altitude, seek prompt treatment or descend quickly.
❸ Rest more, move less, and avoid strenuous exercise. Minimize outdoor activities, move slowly, slow your pace, and don't dash or chase.
❹ Drink plenty of water, don't overeat, and don't drink alcohol.
❺ Tolerate mild altitude sickness appropriately. If you only have a headache and no other symptoms, you can endure it to some extent, but don't push your limits.
❻ Please care for the environment, do not litter, and help preserve the clear waters and green mountains of the plateau.
Sanya – Chengdu (6-hour layover) – Tibet
Self-drive: Lhasa – Chamdo
Duration: 8 days total
DAY 1: Arrive in Lhasa – Check in at Lhasa InterContinental Paradise Hotel – Barkhor Street – Tibetan dinner
Flying from Sanya to Tibet, all flights in this summer season required a stopover. To save time, I chose to transit through Chengdu with my daughter. Arriving in Chengdu at 2:00 a.m., with the next flight at 8:30 a.m., there was no chance to check into a hotel; we had to wait at the airport for less than six hours. But all the exhaustion could not dampen the excitement and anticipation of reaching Lhasa.
I've always believed that a person's spirit supports wisdom, and a resonance with mountains and waters is like a renewal of predestined bonds.
Earlier this winter, I drove from Chengdu to Lhasa then to Shigatse via the Chamdo route. Now in this season of blooming flowers, setting off from Lhasa to Chamdo made up for my regret of not having driven back to Chengdu from Lhasa in winter.
Winter and summer, two starkly different landscapes on largely the same route—what kind of serendipitous continuation of fate is this?
After checking in, I took my daughter straight to Barkhor Street in Lhasa. This was the street I strolled along every day when staying in Lhasa last winter, passing by Jokhang Temple and Ramoche Temple, weaving through throngs of Tibetans, watching them sell various trinkets, breathing the thin oxygen, facing the dazzling sunlight—feeling joyful and at ease. Lhasa is indeed a place short on oxygen but never on faith.
Barkhor Street is also called "Bajiao Street." It is said that because many Sichuan people live in Lhasa, and in Sichuan dialect, the pronunciation of "kuo" (廓) and "jiao" (角) is similar, Barkhor was misread as "Bajiao."
Every visit to Barkhor Street brings different discoveries. This time, I bought my daughter a Tibetan robe woven from yak wool. Although it requires an extra vest underneath to protect against the prickly wool, it is warm and photogenic. Many Tibetan crafts are made of yak wool—clothes, curtains, tents, and more.
The evening featured a warm and lively Tibetan dinner at Jiamusa Tibetan Banquet. Upon entering the restaurant, you see portraits of Princess Wencheng and Songtsen Gampo on the walls, and the interior is decorated in authentic Tibetan style. Besides classic Tibetan meat dishes, the meal included a Tibetan-style hot pot. Every dish conveyed heartfelt hospitality. There were also wonderful performances during the meal.
Lhasa InterContinental Paradise Hotel
Located in downtown Lhasa, the hotel has a sign near the entrance that reads: "Drive 318 Once in a Lifetime – Lhasa Stop – InterContinental Paradise Hotel."
The rooms are comfortable and clean, equipped with oxygen supply and a humidifier. I keep mentioning humidifiers because, having been to the plateau many times, I know the UV rays are intense both in winter and summer, and the scorching sun makes the air drier, which makes the oxygen feel even thinner. So, a hotel with a humidifier in Lhasa feels especially cozy and comforting. The moist air it releases feels life-saving, offering a profound sense of security, and it's also a form of skincare.
DAY 2: Lhasa – Basum Tso – Stay overnight in Nyingchi
Early the next morning, we set off from InterContinental Paradise Hotel toward Nyingchi. The scenery along the way was so breathtaking that eyes alone could take it in; neither cameras nor phones could do it justice. The Highway 318 was bumpy, and my travel companions sitting in the back racked up over 30,000 steps each day just from the jolting—claiming the top spot on our step-count leaderboard.
In the afternoon, we arrived at Basum Tso, a stunning alpine lake with stories to tell in Gongbo'gyamda County. Also known as Tso Gao Lake, Basum Tso means "green water" in Tibetan. Sitting at over 3,700 meters above sea level and covering more than 6,000 mu (about 400 hectares), it lies in a deep gorge on the upper reaches of the Ba River, about 44 km from the Sichuan-Tibet Highway and 400 km from Lhasa.
On the lake's central island, there are several magical trees. The first is an ancient peach embracing a pine—two different species seemingly locked in an embrace, a living testament to time. Another is a thousand-year-old blue oak, over 1,300 years old, whose leaves naturally reveal Tibetan script and zodiac patterns, earning it the name Zodiac Tree. The island nurtures a diverse mix of tree species, each with its own wonder. Circling the island was a most rewarding experience.
DAY 3: Nyingchi – Yarlung Tsangpo – Namcha Barwa – Stay in Suosong Village
From Nyingchi to the Yarlung Tsangpo River, the road passes through the Nyang River Scenic Belt—an utterly beautiful place both in winter and summer.
The Nyang River, flowing on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, stretches 307.5 km with a drainage area of 17,500 sq km. It ranks fourth among the tributaries of the Yarlung Tsangpo, second only to the Parlung Zangbo in water volume.
Known as the "Mother River" of the Kongpo region, the Nyang is also called "Nyang Qu," which means "tears of a goddess" in Tibetan. Its banks are lush with intact vegetation and idyllic scenery, offering many scenic spots. It is also an important wintering area for the black-necked crane in Tibet.
Not far from the Nyang River lies Benri Sacred Mountain. Benri has three peaks: Muri Zaiga, Lhari Gyangto, and Xinri Dedan. Among them, Muri Zaiga is regarded as the mind-manifested sacred mountain of Buddha, the true Benri Mountain. An ancient saying goes: "A sacred mountain like the tip of a spear."
The Yarlung Tsangpo Grand Canyon is the world's largest and deepest canyon. Here, at the grandest canyon, you can view China's most beautiful peak—Namcha Barwa. Take the scenic shuttle bus; at the second stop, do not miss two remarkable trees.
Nyingchi is known as the "Jiangnan of Tibet." Inside the Yarlung Tsangpo scenic area stands a 1,450-year-old sacred mulberry tree, 8 meters tall with a trunk circumference of 11 meters. It blooms every year but never bears fruit. Locals call it "Bu'ou Sexin," meaning "male mulberry," a symbol of happiness, fulfillment, and longevity. Legend says it was planted by Songtsen Gampo and Princess Wencheng to witness their love.
About 300 meters from the ancient mulberry lies a giant natural boulder, miraculously split in two by a peach tree growing through it. This rare and peculiar sight has been given a beautiful meaning: love as steadfast as stone.
The third stop is the best viewpoint for Namcha Barwa. As is well known, Namcha Barwa is also called the "Shy Maiden Peak," and only a few are lucky enough to see her unveiled—requiring good weather, the right season, and especially good fortune.
Yarlung Tsangpo Grand Canyon
The fourth stop is the thunderously rushing Yarlung Tsangpo Grand Canyon, where you can listen to the river's roar and watch the surging torrents, as time cascades and the landscape undergoes eternal change.
DAY 4: Suosong Village – Lulang Town – Tongmai Natural Barrier – Stay at Rawu Lake
That night we stayed in Suosong Village, but thick clouds and heavy rain kept Namcha Barwa hidden from us.
Lulang, called "Dragon King Valley" in Tibetan, sits at 3,700 meters and is known as the "Eastern Gateway to Nyingchi." This beautiful small town is full of exotic charm. Because we only stopped briefly, I look forward to staying longer next time, to imprint those lovely sights deeply in memory and capture them through my lens.
The 14-kilometer stretch between Tongmai Town and Pailong Township is known as the Tongmai Natural Barrier—the most treacherous section of the southern Sichuan-Tibet Highway. Located between Bomi County and Lulang Town, this 14-kilometer segment takes about two hours on average.
"The Sichuan-Tibet road is harder than the way to heaven." Along the southern route, the mountain soil is loose, falling rocks are unpredictable, and the area is studded with snowy peaks and rivers. During rain, wind, or melting snow, mudslides and collapses are frequent.
If you haven't traveled Highway 318, you don't know how difficult the Sichuan-Tibet road is; if you haven't traveled 318, you don't know China's most beautiful scenic corridor.
DAY 5: Rawu Lake – Midui Glacier
In summer, Rawu Lake's water is not as beautiful as in winter, when it is emerald green and surging forward like gems. In summer, the lake is a lighter green, still rushing. Around Rawu Lake, sections up to 40 km are icy in winter, making travel extremely difficult; summer is much better, though with more rain. This explains why there are so many invisible ice patches in winter.
Midui Glacier, located in Yupu Township, Bomi County, 103 km from the county seat, is Tibet's most important maritime glacier. It lies on the upper reaches of the Midui River, a secondary tributary of the lower Yarlung Tsangpo. Just 8 km from National Highway 318, it is one of the must-visit spots along the "Drive 318 Once in a Lifetime" route.
The glacier glitters with snow light year-round and is only 2 km from the nearest village. It is the world's lowest-altitude glacier and one we can see without great effort. Its ice is pure as jade, the scenery graceful, the forms varied and enchanting. Below the glacier stretches a forest of coniferous and broad-leaved trees; the snow never melts on top, yet the forest remains green all year, as if wearing a silver kerchief and an emerald skirt.
Take the scenic shuttle to the village entrance. To get a closer look at the glacier, you can walk or ride a horse. Horse riding costs 100 yuan per person for a one-hour round trip. Walking time varies—it is an uphill path, and factoring in baggage and possible altitude effects, the round trip takes about an hour and a half.
DAY 6: Rawu Lake – Dongda Mountain – Markham Ancient Salt Pans – Stay in Markham
On the stretch from Rawu Lake to Dongda Mountain, snow is possible in both winter and summer. Invisible ice patches are common in winter, while summer snow is rare—but if you're lucky, you might encounter it. We left Rawu Lake in the early morning under gray skies and drizzle, and by the time we reached Dongda Mountain, it was snowing heavily...
It was like riding a snow-country train to the Dongda Mountain pass at 5,008 meters—a world of white. The seasons became confused, and our eyes were stunned. Everything in sight was white, painting the mountainside. Passing through, traversing... a momentary trance that gave way to breathtaking beauty.
Dongda Mountain, located in Zogang County, Tibet, has snow year-round. At 5,008 meters, on one side flows the Lancang River, on the other lies Zogang. In summer, the meadows are lush and yaks gather—the scenery is gorgeous. But climbing Dongda, the temperature can drop from 8°C to freezing in an instant, with heavy snow falling on the mountain! Be mindful of altitude sickness and carry remedies.
The road is no longer winding but a straight, gentle, and long path stretching endlessly ahead—the longest, most lingering stretch of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, known as Dongda Mountain.
Dongda Mountain Pass: the second-highest pass on the southern Sichuan-Tibet line
Pass elevation: 5,008 meters
Markham Ancient Salt Pans – Stay overnight in Markham
After a bumpy ride from Rawu Lake over Dongda Mountain to the Markham Salt Pans, it was around 5:00 p.m. We had lunch and dinner combined, with the local specialty Gyagya noodles.
Gyagya noodles are a characteristic snack of the Yunnan-Tibet region. A large pot is cooked, then served in small bowls, each holding just one mouthful. The server adds more as you eat—one bowl after another, mixed with minced meat sauce, extremely delicious, until you're full. Eating Gyagya noodles is about leisure and fun, and the attentive service shows a welcome to guests from afar.
The Markham Ancient Salt Pans are the only place in China still using the most primitive method of hand-harvested salt, a practice dating back to the Tang Dynasty.
The salt pans are a feng shui treasure. The village of Yanjing (Salt Well) is nestled in an embrace of mountains, and has been a vital transportation hub since ancient times—once an important station on the Tea Horse Road and a must-pass point on National Highway 214. The Markham Ancient Salt Pans are China's only place preserving the original manual salt-making technique, with a history that began in the Tang Dynasty.
Yanjing Village, surrounded by mountains, is like a paradise on earth, beautiful as a fairyland.
From past to present, it remains a major thoroughfare, a key post on the ancient Tea Horse Road and a necessary passage on Highway 214. Since it was the rainy season, too much rain would wash away the salt, so it wasn't the best time for salt production.
DAY 7: Markham – Lawu Mountain – Chamdo – Stay at Chamdo Tongtai Hotel
Lawu Mountain pass sits at 4,338 meters. Here, the "Most Beautiful Scenic Highway" National Highway 318 (Sichuan-Tibet line) and the "Legendary Love Sky Road" National Highway 214 merge once again.
Lawu Mountain lies between the Jinsha River and the Lancang River, part of the Hengduan Mountains. Entering the Lancang River Gorge, the river surges deep between cliffs as Highway 318 winds along treacherous bluffs. The Jinsha, Lancang, and Nu rivers all originate from the Tanggula Mountains on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau.
Lawu is a pass with flat terrain; if you're not paying attention, you might speed right through. Blue sky, clusters of clouds, buttery meadows... everything flows like a gentle song.
Unlike other densely forested mountains, Lawu's unique feature is its sparse greenery. It has vast golden pastures that turn into a sea of flowers in summer.
DAY 8: Return – Chamdo – Bamda Airport
This was once the most bustling point on the Tea Horse Road. Chamdo was anciently called "Kang" or "Kemu." During the Tang Dynasty, it was part of the Tubo Kingdom. From the Ming and Qing dynasties onward, the area has been collectively known as the Kang-Tibet region.
Chamdo is situated in the Hengduan Mountains and the Three Rivers (Jinsha, Lancang, and Nu) basin, in eastern Tibet. It faces Sichuan across the river to the east, borders Myanmar and Yunnan to the southeast, and meets Qinghai to the north—serving as Tibet's eastern gateway.
Stepping into Chamdo, its prosperity feels like yesterday.
The Tongtai Hotel has karaoke on the first and third floors, with vividly colored decor reminiscent of the Tea Horse Road's true character. The vast desert sands and green grasslands all write the story of times gone by.
This city has carried countless travelers through the ages, settling and embracing the customs and cultures of ancient and modern times.
Chamdo Bamda Airport is located in Baxoi County, Chamdo, Tibet, about 58 km south of Baxoi town and 65 km north of Chamdo city center. It is a high-altitude airport.
Chamdo Bamda Airport is known for three "world's mosts": the longest runway (5 km), the farthest distance from a town (125 km), and the most complex geographical and climatic conditions for an airport.
A note on the only photo taken of Bamda Airport: This is a dual-use military and civilian airport, and photography is not permitted. All window shades must be closed during takeoff.
"Highway 318" offers a different landscape every season, yet remains the snowy plateau everyone yearns for. "Drive 318 once in a lifetime" is not just a slogan, but a journey taken step by step by many.
You and I are all mere passersby. No matter how many times we travel 318, whether in spring, summer, autumn, or winter, the beautiful scenery, the shifting moments—the longing in our hearts will never change.
