An Accidental Drive to Lhasa: 2022 Western Sichuan Road Trip

This year, since Mr. Yang was busy in July and August, we moved our summer vacation to June. Looking at the dates, the 3rd was the Dragon Boat Festival. If we took leave around the holiday, we could get an extra day off, giving us 17 days from the 3rd to the 19th. Perfect! With the time set, we started choosing where to go.

Since a few days in western Sichuan last November, I've fallen in love with the region. Whenever I have the chance, I want to go back. With 17 days this time, we could really explore it thoroughly.

I asked Mr. Yang, and he wanted to go to Lhasa. Driving the 318 National Highway is a dream for many, and he was no exception. I, however, wasn't so keen. First, driving to Lhasa takes at least 20 days—rushing would be exhausting and no fun. Second, I felt the scenery in western Sichuan was similar to Tibet; why travel so far? Plus, during the pandemic, Tibet had strict controls, with sudden quarantines, which made me nervous.

To dissuade him from Tibet, I checked the latest pandemic controls there and even had my daughter help. The answer was still: strict, strict, strict. I reasoned with him (too long to Lhasa, strict rules, our health codes would show 14 days; if Mianyang had a case, we could be quarantined on the spot. I'm retired, but he has work—what then? Blah blah...). Finally, I convinced Mr. Yang to agree to a western Sichuan road trip: Kangding – Litang – Batang – Baiyu – Dege – Ganzi – Daofu, playing and planning as we went.

Two weeks before departure, I kept an eye on the pandemic in Sichuan. Luckily, all was quiet. According to the May Day rules in Ganzi Prefecture, a green health code was enough. But two days before we left, I called to double-check, and they suddenly required a 48-hour negative PCR test—confirmed for Kangding, Litang, and Batang. My enthusiasm plummeted. If Mr. Yang hadn't already taken leave, I might have backed out. The thought of constant testing was a hassle. After calming down, I realized we had plenty of time, and PCR tests were becoming the norm for travel—this could be a learning experience. With that mindset, Mr. Yang and I got tested on the 2nd. It was my first time; the nasal swab was uncomfortable. I dreaded the idea of repeating it every other day, but I'd just have to tough it out.

Day 1: June 3, Mianyang – Kangding. Stayed at Ningcang B&B in Kangding.

After breakfast, we set off at 8:30, planning to acclimatize to the altitude and stop overnight in Kangding. We got on the expressway at Mianyang South and took the Chengdu-Mianyang second expressway. Traffic was light, making me forget it was a holiday—until we hit Chengdu. The famous ‘Chuan A’ army was out in force. Since we had time, we exited at Luding. At the checkpoint, they only asked for our travel history code. Fingers crossed for a smooth trip. We had lunch at a Yanbian-style restaurant along National Highway 318. The food was tasty but pricey.

After lunch, we rested an hour and hit the road again. The expressway from Luding to Kangding is all tunnels—boring—so we chose National Highway 318 instead. The scenery along the Dadu River was wonderful, much more enjoyable than tunnels.

To our delight, there was no pandemic checkpoint entering Kangding. Even though we had test results, we were relieved to skip the long lines. Following the GPS, we found the B&B perched on a small hill. The road up was narrow and steep; parking required serious skill. In the end, the owner parked the car for us. We showed our travel history code and PCR results and checked in.

After a short rest, we strolled out, first to Nanwu Temple nearby. We only peeked at the gate—no one was around, so we didn't dare enter. Haha.

We also walked along the Zheduo River to Liuliu City and had dinner there. I had lamb rice noodles; Mr. Yang had noodles with soybean paste.

Day 2: June 4, Kangding – Daofu. Stayed at Lamu Tibetan Guesthouse in Daofu.

The night before, the B&B owner told us PCR tests were done at the Ganzi Prefecture People's Hospital, but it didn't open until 9:30—so late, a true slow-life pace here. After breakfast at 8, we drove to the hospital, only to be told the testing site was at the stadium 400 meters away. We parked there, followed signs, and found a smooth process: payment, sampling, done. And best of all: throat swabs! Haha, if it's throat swabs here in Ganzi, likely everywhere in the prefecture uses them too. My dread of nasal swabs vanished—great news!

After the test, we took Provincial Road 434 toward Tagong Grassland, planning to reach Xinduqiao via Tagong, and stay overnight in Xinduqiao or Jiagenba.

Road 434 was scenic all the way. Last November we went from Xinduqiao back to Mianyang over Zheduo Mountain to Kangding, so this time we chose a different route via 434 from Kangding to Xinduqiao for a change of scenery.

At 12:50, we reached Tagong Grassland and parked where we could gaze at Yala Snow Mountain. It was hidden behind clouds for now, but we could wait. We planned to eat our self-heating rice there. As usual, I heated the rice in the car while Mr. Yang ambled outside taking photos. A sudden rain chased him back. The shower ended as quickly as it came, and after lunch the sky cleared. The post-rain blue sky and white clouds were stunning, and Yala Snow Mountain revealed itself.

The sudden rain reawakened Mr. Yang's weather awareness. Checking, he saw that Lenggacuo and Litang would likely have light rain in the coming days. So he suggested heading to Daofu first. I didn't mind—forwards or backwards, both fine. After admiring Yala Snow Mountain to our heart's content, we drove to Daofu. The scenery remained lovely, with beautiful local houses.

In Daofu, we checked into a pre-booked guesthouse—a typical local wooden house, very charming. Dinner was a barbecue in the small courtyard: lamb skewers, saury, eggplant, zucchini, and a glass of draft beer.

Day 3: June 5, Daofu – Ganzi County. Stayed at Xiya Hotel in Ganzi.

Our plan was to take National Highway 317 to Ganzi County. At breakfast, the owner mentioned Yuke Grassland was worth visiting, so we spontaneously detoured there first—the luxury of having time.

The scenery from Daofu to Yuke Grassland was well worth the detour.

After returning from the grassland, we had lunch in Daofu town, then drove via Luhuo to Ganzi County, passing the Kasa Lake viewing platform.

Not far past the platform, at a rest area, we saw undulating snow-capped mountains (anything with a white top, I call a snow mountain, hehe). I spotted a dirt track that could take us closer, so we decided to explore.

After a bit of wandering and enjoying the snowy peaks, we returned along the track to Highway 317 and continued to Ganzi. Entering the county, we passed a pandemic checkpoint, then drove to our hotel. Check-in required travel history and PCR results. Then we headed out for food.

Remembering parking was tough in the county, we walked. Online, we found a Shaanxi noodle shop and navigated there. We ordered oil-splashed noodles and waited. Then I heard thunder. Would it rain? We didn't have the car! I hoped it would rain quickly and stop before we finished eating. Just as I thought that, a wave of cold air hit from behind with a pouring sound. Turning, I saw water gushing down—no, not just rain, but hailstones the size of fingers! In no time, the ground was thick with ice and streets were rivers.

The owner said it was the biggest hailstorm in his three years here. We ate and waited. Then lightning struck, thunder boomed, and the power went out—a county-wide blackout. We had no choice but to accept it and watch the show. The storm passed after about 40 minutes. We took a taxi back to the hotel; luckily, they had a generator. Even better, because of the noise, they proactively moved us to a quieter room—thumbs up.

Day 4: June 6, Ganzi County. Still at Xiya Hotel. After breakfast, we got PCR tests at the People's Hospital. The queue was long, mostly locals, with lots of line-cutting—chaos. We asked a young guy ahead who looked local; he said he was getting tested to enter Tibet for work, as Jiangda was nearby. By the time we were done, it was nearly 11 a.m. We decided to drive partway along the Ganzi-Baiyu road to enjoy the scenery.

We returned to the hotel at 3:30, rested half an hour, then walked to White Pagoda Park.

After sightseeing, we walked to Chengdu Xinxin Sichuan Restaurant for dinner—their wild mushroom dishes were delicious.

Day 5: June 7, Ganzi – Jiangda. Stayed at Huisheng Hotel in Jiangda.

The original plan was Ganzi to Dege. After breakfast, we followed the GPS and left Ganzi County onto Highway 317. The road was in excellent condition through wide-open farmlands.

Chola Mountain now has a tunnel, making travel easy, but we could only admire the mountain from a distance.

We passed Yulong Latso, now a construction site fenced off for development. Fortunately, near the site, workers had opened a gate and built a bridge for visitors like us to access the lake from another side, charging 30 yuan per person. We negotiated it down to 20. Crossing a river and a meadow, we reached Yulong Latso. Walking the boardwalk and seeing the beautiful lake, 20 yuan felt worthwhile. Who knows how much they'll charge once it's fully developed.

This was where our trip took a turn. At Yulong Latso, we met two Chongqing guys just back from Tibet. Chatting, we learned Tibet also required 48-hour PCR tests. That reignited Mr. Yang's Tibet dream. After visiting the lake, he'd decided: we were driving to Tibet. In the car, munching on Sachima and beef jerky, we calculated the time and decided to enter Tibet via Dege, heading to Jiangda that night. All our original plans were scrapped. I wasn't thrilled, but had to agree—he had the steering wheel. Passing Dege, the cultural scenery left a great impression; I'll have to come back and explore properly another time.

At the Dege-Jiangda border, everyone entering Tibet had to show a 48-hour PCR test and apply through the 'Tibet Easy Travel' app. We followed the steps, had our results checked, and smoothly entered Tibet. Honestly, at the checkpoint, I felt a bit dazed—I couldn't quite believe we were really in Tibet.

After checking into the hotel, we discussed the next route. Taking Highway 317 via Qamdo, Dengqen, and Nagchu to Lhasa meant high altitudes. Even though we'd spent days in Ganzi, altitude sickness worried us. For safety, we chose to go through Qamdo to Bangda and then take Highway 318 to Lhasa.

Day 6: June 8, Jiangda – Qamdo – Bangda Town. Stayed at Maoge Hotel in Bangda, Baxoi.

We went out for breakfast at 7 a.m., but no shops were open. The hotel owner said they'd open at 9. Luckily, we had our own food. After eating, we drove off, planning to reach Bangda. In the morning, we'd get PCR tests in Qamdo.

We reached Qamdo around 11 a.m. and navigated to Qamdo People's Hospital, but there was no parking. We searched for nearby lots and finally found one. We ate lunch at a wonton shop nearby, then took a taxi to the hospital at 2:30, only to be told they'd start work at 3:30—real Tibet pace. We waited. After the test at 3:30, we taxied back to our car and drove on to Bangda, arriving at 7:30 p.m. Since online reviews for Bangda hotels were low, I decided to book in person. After picking a room, I realized we were at high altitude—around 4,200 meters. Thankfully, no altitude sickness hit, though my eyes felt slightly puffy the next morning. We had yak hotpot for dinner at the hotel, and I finally used the lettuce we'd brought along. Mr. Yang had wanted to toss it two days earlier, but I gave him a stern look—the leaves were still fresh, why waste it? Perfect for moments like this.

Scenery from Jiangda to Bangda:

Day 7: June 9, Bangda – Bomi. Stayed at Renqing's Home B&B by Guxiang Lake in Bomi.

Today we started on Highway 318 toward Guxiang Lake in Bomi. For breakfast at a nearby snack shop, I had soy milk and fried dough sticks; Mr. Yang had congee and buns. We ran into three groups of cyclists: a grandpa team, a young guys' team, and a middle-aged team—three age groups covered. I admired them so much. Just sitting in a car all day tired me out; they relied on their own strength, overcame high altitude, wind, and rain. Truly remarkable.

In the morning, Bangda had light rain that turned moderate as we left; it felt chilly. At the Bangda Grassland viewing platform, visibility was low. Luckily, we'd already visited the platform yesterday. The Nujiang 72 Turns weren't too tough for us mountain-road veterans. The trickiest part was at the highest point where the road was extremely narrow.

Between Ranwu Lake and Bomi, we passed a flooded section of road. Mr. Yang drove back and forth through it a few times, splashing water for fun. When we returned from Lhasa, the traffic was too heavy to do that again.

Day 8: June 10, Bomi Guxiang Lake – Lhasa. Stayed at Puncuo Kangsang Oxygen-rich International Resort Hotel in Lhasa.

Morning at Guxiang Lake

Our plan was to drive to Lhasa. After breakfast we set off, passing Lulang Town. We didn't stop because we were in a hurry, but from a distance the pastoral scenery looked lovely—we'd visit on the way back. At noon we reached Nyingchi, had lunch, and continued. The Lhasa-Nyingchi Highway is basically a free expressway; I loved it.

After nearly four hours on the Lhasa-Nyingchi Highway, we reached the Lhasa exit. Here they checked travel history and 24-hour PCR results; we only had 48-hour ones. After seeing our history, they asked us to test at the roadside sampling point and then let us through. That actually worked out—our 48-hour window expired that evening, and we'd planned to find a hospital in Lhasa after 5 p.m. So this saved us the trouble.

In Lhasa, we rushed to a car 4S shop before 6:30 p.m. for the car's second service. Then we drove to the hotel and checked in—mission accomplished for the day. Lhasa's air quality was average, not very fresh.

Day 9: June 11, Lhasa. Still at Puncuo Kangsang. Today we joined a tour group to visit Potala Palace.

After the palace, Mr. Yang wanted to see Barkhor Street. It's a commercial street—not really my thing—but he insisted on checking it out. We walked from Potala to Barkhor and strolled around. The street borders Jokhang Temple, so walking its perimeter was like circling the temple. Many pilgrims were praying along the way.

After half an hour, we took a taxi back. It was the most walking we'd done all trip, and we were exhausted.

Day 10: June 12, Lhasa. Stayed at Yinianqi Guesthouse.

Today's plan: Namtso and Bamco. Breakfast at the hotel was a treat—yesterday's early tour meant a rushed meal, but now we could relax. The buffet spread was amazing; I just wished I had a bigger stomach. After a good breakfast, we checked out and drove to Namtso. Following the GPS, we got off the expressway and passed through Damxung County. At the Namtso visitor center, someone asked where we were going. I casually said 'Baingoin' and they let us through—good thing I'd done my homework. Namtso is huge; the county road from Damxung to Baingoin runs along the lake for a long stretch. We could enjoy it without buying tickets for the scenic area.

After seeing Namtso, we drove another hour or so to Bamco. The lake was just as beautiful. At the viewing platform, we ate our self-heating rice—the whole place was empty, just our car facing the lake. Eating with that view was pure bliss.

On the way to Bamco, we passed a turnoff for Holy Elephant Heavenly Lake. Mr. Yang wanted to detour, but I strongly objected. I remembered the site was closed—the shops at the entrance were shuttered, no people or cars anywhere. Even though a road led inside, I felt uneasy. I insisted, and he gave in. Later at the guesthouse, the young owner confirmed the site was indeed closed, and the road was cut off by villagers with barriers—plus it was dozens of kilometers of terrible road. Phew.

Day 11: June 13, Lhasa – Pasum Tso Songtsen Village. Stayed at Guanfengju Inn in Mainling.

Today we started the return journey. Last night, we learned breakfast at the inn wasn't until 9 a.m.—a bit late for us—so we told the owner we'd skip it. He was very polite, apologetic, and even refunded 20 yuan from the room fee. He also arranged for another guest to move their car for us—great service. In the morning, after packing, we went out for food, but the whole street was as quiet as the inn; no shops open. We went back, grabbed some bread, sachima, beef jerky, and a salted duck egg from the car, ate in our room, and then set off for Songtsen Village in Pasum Tso.

We merged onto the Lhasa-Nyingchi Highway towards Nyingchi. I saw lots of tour buses—such large convoys, something I hadn't seen in three years of the pandemic. Around noon, near Nyingchi, I suggested we exit early at Bayi Town, take Highway 318, and find a Sichuan restaurant along the way. But after exiting, there were no restaurants. In town, traffic was chaotic, cars everywhere. We spotted eateries but couldn't park. We found a market parking lot, but the space was tight, squeezed between a motorcycle and a van. Worried about the car, we backed out and kept circling. Mr. Yang complained I'd made a bad call; I just rolled my eyes. Easy to criticize after the fact. After more aimless driving, we used the GPS to get back on track—luckily, Bayi was only 10 minutes from Nyingchi. In Nyingchi's new district, we found a Sichuan restaurant with easy parking and good food. After lunch, we headed to Songtsen Village for the night.

We came to Songtsen Village mainly to see Namcha Barwa. Entering the village required tickets, as it's part of the Yarlung Tsangpo Grand Canyon scenic area on the north bank. We bought tickets and drove to our guesthouse following GPS.

The weather was beautiful, blue sky and clouds, but at Songtsen we learned how fast it changes. When buying tickets, the sun was blazing; by the time we reached the inn, it was raining. Namcha Barwa—not a trace. Since there were no other guests, the owner gave us the best view room. I sat in front of the floor-to-ceiling window, looking toward Namcha Barwa and imagining its peak. Sigh. Better go to dinner first.

It was raining, so we took our time eating yak hotpot at the restaurant—no chance of seeing Namcha Barwa today. By 7:30 p.m., when we finished, the rain had stopped but the sky was misty. We strolled around the village a bit, then returned to our room. Opening the door, through the window I spotted a tiny peak of Namcha Barwa peeking out! We immediately drove up the mountain road a bit and found a large viewing platform. Slowly, Namcha Barwa's outline emerged—not much, but better than nothing.

Day 12: June 14, Songtsen Village – Lulang Town. Stayed at Tongdaoren Inn in Lulang, Nyingchi.

After breakfast at the inn, we planned to spend half a day exploring, driving to the highest point along the road to make the pricey ticket worthwhile—and hoping Namcha Barwa would reveal itself again, haha.

We ate lunch at the same restaurant. Mr. Yang asked about PCR testing in Nyingchi; the owner suggested Bayi District People's Hospital—fewer people, easy parking. Coincidentally, a fellow guest at the restaurant needed a ride to get tested in Nyingchi. The young man seemed friendly, so we agreed. We left after 2 p.m., stopping at a sand dune viewpoint we hadn't noticed yesterday—the photos turned out great.

At 3:30 we reached the hospital; testing was at the Youth Square across the street. We got tested smoothly, said goodbye to the young man, and drove to Lulang. At the Nyingchi checkpoint, cars entering the city were queued for a kilometer. We drove past like we were reviewing troops—our timing couldn't have been better. At Serkhyim La pass, the viewing platform was jam-packed. People wore all kinds of clothes—winter coats, summer tees, autumn jackets. The funniest were those in shorts and tees; they'd hop out, then jump straight back into their cars. Over the pass was Lulang. When we first passed in the morning, fog had hidden everything; today, it was clear, with beautiful forests and meadows.

In Lulang, we picked a highly-rated spot for stone pot chicken. The flavor was great, but the portion and price didn't match. We have big appetites, but even a small pot at 288 yuan had so much chicken and herbs plus sides that we couldn't finish it. Looking around, 4 out of 5 tables were couples like us. It would make more sense to offer smaller, cheaper pots. This was the first meal of the trip where we wasted food.

Day 13: June 15, Lulang Town – Baxoi. Stayed at 1980 Boutique Hotel in Baxoi.

We'd seen the scenery before, so we didn't stop much. Near Tongmai, a landslide blocked the road, stranding us for over an hour. Bored, Mr. Yang did something dumb—needing to pee, he went into the woods for privacy. When he came back, he had leeches on his jeans, dangling there. Thank goodness he was in long pants, long sleeves, and a hat! I quickly helped him pick them off and checked him thoroughly. Sigh, when will he learn?

Because of the delay, we reached Tongmai around noon and ate at a Sichuan restaurant that also offered rooms. The rooms in the backyard were basic—no private bath, and the shared bathroom was awful. Mr. Yang had once considered staying in Tongmai; I could only laugh. Resting well at high altitude is crucial. After lunch and a short rest, we drove on, stopping briefly at Ranwu Lake. In Baxoi, after dinner, I wanted a shower, but during peak hours the water wasn't hot enough, so I skipped it to avoid catching a cold.

Day 14: June 16, Baxoi – Rumei. Stayed at Shudu Hotel in Markham.

After breakfast across from the hotel, we saw the water was now hot, so I showered. We had to get PCR tests in Zogang, but with Tibet's 3:30 p.m. work start, we had time, so no rush.

We checked out at 9:30 and drove through the Nujiang Gorge and 72 Turns again. This time, witnessing a long semi-truck passing another vehicle really showed how narrow and treacherous the road was.

We arrived in Zogang at 1 p.m. and ate at a halal noodle place, adding a few lamb skewers. We sat there until 3, then drove to Zogang People's Hospital, parked, and queued in the courtyard. Surprisingly, the PCR test was free here! Testing fees on this trip: Mianyang 16, Kangding 3.5, Ganzi 3.5, Qamdo 8, Lhasa 8, Nyingchi 5, Zogang 0.

After testing, we left Zogang for Rumei, crossing Dongda Mountain and Jueba Mountain. The 318 near Dongda was fairly smooth, but Jueba felt even more dangerous than the 72 Turns—like driving along a cliff edge, making me nervous and careful. In Rumei, the hotel owner said the Jueba Tunnel would open by year-end. Roads are getting smoother, but the scenery is getting duller.

After dinner in Rumei, we walked around. From Nujiang Gorge to Rumei, the exposed mountainsides were reddish—probably high copper content—and the river carried so much sediment it looked red and muddy.

Back at the hotel, a few motorcycles were parked out front, including a beautiful, impressive BMW. Along Highway 318, I'd seen trucks, cars, big bikes, scooters, handcarts, pull-carts, hikers, and pilgrims—all traveling in their own way.

Day 15: June 17, Rumei – Litang. Stayed at Xueyu Qingge Hotel in Litang.

Today we'd return to Sichuan. We reached Jinsha River Bridge at 10:40. Cars heading into Tibet were still lined up long on the bridge.

We passed the Batang checkpoint, showing our travel history and PCR results, and re-entered Sichuan. After lunch in Batang, we drove to Litang, passing Sister Lakes and Maoya Grassland—just beautiful, nothing but beauty.

Day 16: June 18, Litang – Luding. Stayed at Yunshuiqiao Hotel in Luding.

After breakfast at the hotel, we continued, with Litang still serving up gorgeous views.

Passing through Yajiang, the county seemed wedged into a canyon—expansion could only go along it. After Yajiang, Mr. Yang started again: 'The weather's so nice, let's stop at Heishi Cheng to see Mount Gongga via Gao'ersi.' I figured he'd been planning this. But I wanted to see Gongga too, so off we went. The GPS took us only to the general area; we had to walk a bit.

After seeing Gongga, we continued, crossing Xinduqiao, then Zheduo Mountain. We ate self-heating rice at a rest area on Zheduo, cleaned up, then descended via Kangding to Luding on Highway 318.

Day 17: June 19, Luding – Mianyang

At 7:30 a.m., the restaurant downstairs still wasn't open, so we ate bread and sachima. Then we visited Luding Bridge—our hotel was only 100 meters away.

After a short visit, we drove home, stopping in Luojiang to buy some century eggs. By 3 p.m., we were back in Mianyang, completing our 17-day journey.