Tibet Travel: Discover the Magic of Enchanting Lhasa (Photos)
Lhasa, the capital of the Tibet Autonomous Region, is its political, economic, and cultural center. The city and outskirts boast numerous famous historical sites, such as the Potala Palace, Jokhang Temple, Drepung Monastery, Sera Monastery, and Ganden Monastery, all renowned both in China and abroad. Lhasa is undoubtedly one of the most distinctive and enchanting cities in the world. This is not only because its altitude of 3,650 meters leaves first-time visitors dizzy, but also because of the awe inspired by 1,300 years of cultural heritage and its religious atmosphere.
Majestic Potala Palace (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
I have been fortunate to visit Lhasa twice, leaving behind a wealth of wonderful memories. My first trip was to film the large-scale documentary series "Chinese Ethnic Sports: Tibetan Volume." On August 8, 1997, I arrived in Tibet, flying from Chengdu to Gonggar Airport. Right after landing, I took a car to the Tibet Hotel where I would stay. I dropped off my luggage, grabbed my camcorder, and hailed a taxi to Potala Palace Square to start shooting. I completely ignored any altitude sickness—I just felt an inexplicable, overwhelming excitement.
A photo at Tibet Hotel during my first visit (Photo: Pan Chun)
Who could have imagined that ten years later, in August 2007, I would join the "Enchanting Qinghai-Tibet" tour group and once again set foot on this magical land, enjoying another unforgettable time. What impressed me most on this trip was Lhasa's mystical charm. After breakfast on August 3, my fellow travelers and I boarded a tour bus to soak in the city's wonderful sights.
Filming at Potala Palace Square (Photo: Pan Chun)
In the mid-7th century, Songtsen Gampo, the leader of the Tubo tribe, founded his kingdom here. In 641 AD, after unifying Tibet, he married Princess Wencheng of the Tang Dynasty. Upon her arrival, the princess suggested using white goats to carry soil and fill a lake to build a temple. Thus, the first temple—now the Jokhang Temple—was named "Rasa," meaning "on the backs of goats" in Tibetan. "Rasa" was later transliterated into "Luoxie" and gradually evolved into "Lhasa." For over a millennium, Lhasa has repeatedly served as the center of Tibetan political and religious activity, truly earning its title as a "sacred and magical land."
A photo from my first time in Lhasa (Photo: Pan Chun)
Coincidentally, the first place our tour group visited was the Jokhang Temple. I recalled my first visit on August 20, 1997, when the famous Lama Nima Ciren said, "Visiting Lhasa without seeing the Jokhang Temple is like never having been to Lhasa." Today, these words resonate as the shared wish of every traveler to Lhasa.
With Lama Nima Ciren (Photo: Wang Xiaguang)
The Jokhang Temple, also known as "Tsuglagkhang" or "Jokhang" (meaning "Buddha Hall" in Tibetan), was built in 647 AD during the Tang Dynasty's Zhenguan reign by King Songtsen Gampo to commemorate the arrival of Princess Bhrikuti. Over the centuries, successive renovations and expansions turned it into a vast architectural complex.
Square in front of Jokhang Temple (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
Jokhang Temple was the first temple in Tibet. When it was built, it served only to house Buddha statues and scriptures, as Buddhism had not yet taken root with ordained monks in Tibet. Later reconstructions added corridors and courtyards, expanding the building area to over 25,000 square meters.
Overlooking the square from Jokhang Temple (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
As the most sacred temple in Tibetan Buddhism, Jokhang Temple does not belong to any particular sect. After Gelugpa (Yellow Hat sect) rose to prominence, the Great Prayer Festival was held here annually, and successive Dalai Lamas and Panchen Lamas received their ordination here.
Entrance to Jokhang Temple (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
In Lhasa, Tibetans refer to the area around Jokhang Temple and Barkhor Street as "Lhasa" (literally "Buddha Land"), showing how highly the temple is revered. If you linger and study it carefully, you will find that Jokhang Temple is indeed the heart of local life—everything around it revolves around the temple.
Devout prostrations (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
When visitors enter the small square in front of Jokhang Temple, they get a full view. The first things to catch the eye are two stone tablets enclosed by walls. The southern one is the famous Tang-Bo Alliance Tablet, standing 3.42 meters high, 0.28 meters wide, and 0.35 meters thick, inscribed in both Chinese and Tibetan in the third year of Changqing (823 AD). The other is the Smallpox Inoculation Tablet, erected in the 59th year of the Qianlong reign (1794) by the Qing Dynasty's Amban Helin.
A corner of the Jokhang Temple interior (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
Historically, Tibet lagged behind inland China in technology and did not learn to use inoculation against smallpox until the late 18th century, thus the disease was considered fatal. Upon learning of this, the central government tasked Helin, the imperial commissioner in charge of Tibetan affairs, to build shelters in the Langdang Valley of northern Tibet where smallpox patients could live and recuperate. The government provided them with food and taught cowpox inoculation; over 90% of patients survived.
Courtyard of Jokhang Temple seen from above (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
With smallpox finally treated and prevented in Tibet, this Smallpox Inoculation Tablet was erected in front of the temple. The tablet is 3.3 meters high and 1.2 meters wide. Devout locals often struck it with pebbles, leaving it scarred and pitted over the years, making most of the text illegible.
Distant view of the Potala Palace (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
Upon entering Jokhang Temple, you first encounter a courtyard that is the birthplace of the "Geshe" degree (the highest academic degree in Tibetan Buddhism, equivalent to a PhD). Moving into the main hall, two giant Buddha statues flank the sides: on the left is Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava), founder of the Nyingma (Red Hat) sect who originally came from India and introduced Tantric Buddhism to Tibet in the 8th century; on the right is Maitreya, the Future Buddha.
A corner above Jokhang Temple (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
On the right side at the entrance to the main hall's corridor is a mural depicting the story of the temple's construction. It vividly portrays the early Potala Palace in the 7th century and the filling of the lake to build Jokhang Temple. To understand the temple and 7th-century Lhasa, Songtsen Gampo, and Princess Wencheng, one must view this mural. Inside, circumambulate clockwise through several chapels containing statues of Tsongkhapa and his eight principal disciples—who made great contributions to the Gelugpa sect—as well as Avalokiteshvara, Songtsen Gampo, Princess Bhrikuti, Princess Wencheng, Tangtong Gyalpo, and a life-sized statue of the 12-year-old Sakyamuni.
A corner of Jokhang Temple's main hall (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
After exiting the main hall, take the southeastern staircase up to the second floor and the golden roof. The temple's main hall has four stories and over 20 shrines. Its golden roof and dougong brackets are typical of Han Chinese style, while the watchtowers and carved beams reflect Tibetan aesthetics. Beneath the eaves on the second and third floors, 103 wooden sculptures of crouching beasts and sphinxes display Nepalese and Indian artistic influences.
Lively Barkhor Street (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
After leaving the temple, it's eye-opening to walk around the bustling Barkhor Street. Barkhor Street is Lhasa's oldest street, also commonly known as "Octagonal Street." Originally, it was simply the circumambulation path around Jokhang Temple, and Tibetans call it the "Holy Road."
Shopping on Barkhor Street (Photo: Sun Minghe)
Today, Barkhor Street remains a circumambulation path and has also become a vibrant shopping arcade full of ethnic character. It is an old quarter with a strong Tibetan atmosphere, where stone-built houses retain their original charm and the streets are paved with handcrafted flagstones. Strolling around, you can freely choose souvenirs and experience the mystery of religion through the devout prostrations.
Street stalls on Barkhor Street (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
Around noon on August 3, 2007, the most thrilling moment arrived: after visiting Jokhang Temple, it was time for the Potala Palace. I recalled my previous trip when, after landing, I dropped my luggage at the hotel and rushed straight to Potala Palace Square. I had wanted to see with my own eyes the true face of this magical, magnificent structure that I had seen so many times in various media.
A photo at Norbulingka during my first visit (Photo: Pan Chun)
Nowadays, visiting the Potala Palace in Lhasa is no easy task, mainly due to the overwhelming number of tourists. Visitor numbers are limited daily, and the time allowed inside is set at one hour. Even our group of 30 had to be split into two batches for entry.
Viewing Potala Palace from the square (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
At the first gate, visitors must present their ID cards to verify against the pre-submitted list of ID numbers. After that, tickets are exchanged, and then you enter. I climbed up from the main gate with the other tourists, and after just a few stone steps, I was already panting. Climbing nearly 100 meters of stairs at an altitude of over 3,600 meters is truly tough.
Overlooking the square from Potala Palace (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
I remembered that ten years earlier, when I visited with delegates attending the "First Preparatory Meeting for the Sixth Ethnic Minority Games," we drove up from the west side of the palace. We entered through the back, climbed just a few steps to the golden roof, and then descended without further climbing—it didn't feel difficult at all. I never expected the reverse route, climbing from below, would be such a struggle. This time, I also didn't get to go up to the golden roof.
A photo at the golden roof during my first visit (Photo: Li Changping)
The world-renowned Potala Palace stands on Marpo Ri (Red Hill) in Lhasa, a key cultural relic under state protection. "Potala" is derived from Sanskrit, meaning "island" or "Mountain of Enlightenment," also translated as "Putuo," originally referring to the abode of Avalokiteshvara. Thus, the Potala Palace in Lhasa is commonly called the Second Putuo Mountain.
Close-up of Potala Palace architecture (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
Perched at over 3,700 meters above sea level, the Potala Palace covers more than 360,000 square meters in total area, with a building area exceeding 130,000 square meters. Its main building is 117 meters tall with 13 floors, encompassing palaces, stupa halls, Buddha halls, assembly halls, monks' quarters, and courtyards—making it the world's highest and largest palace-fortress complex.
A corner inside Potala Palace (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
Built into the mountainside, the palace complex features overlapping buildings and imposing halls that seem to emerge from the sky. Its sturdy granite walls, flat white willow-branch wall toppings, and resplendent golden roofs, along with giant gilded urns, banners, and red fringes, create a striking contrast of red, white, and gold. The layered, step-like architectural style embodies the enchanting characteristics of ancient Tibetan architecture. The Potala Palace is both an outstanding representative of Tibetan construction and a masterpiece of ancient Chinese architecture.
Window curtains of Potala Palace (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
The Potala Palace served as the winter residence of successive Dalai Lamas and was the theocratic center of Tibet's government. From the Fifth Dalai Lama onward, major religious and political ceremonies were held here, and it also houses the stupas of past Dalai Lamas. Construction began in 631 AD by Songtsen Gampo. Originally, there were 999 rooms, plus meditation rooms on the mountain, totaling 1,000 rooms, but severe damage from lightning and warfare later occurred.
A section of Potala Palace's red wall (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
In 1645, the Fifth Dalai Lama, aiming to consolidate the Ganden Phodrang regime's theocracy, ordered the reconstruction of the White Palace, including walls, gates, and watchtowers, under the supervision of Desi Sonam Rapten, moving the government from Drepung Monastery. In 1690, Desi Sangye Gyatso built a stupa for the Fifth Dalai Lama and expanded the Red Palace.
Overlooking Lhasa city from Potala Palace (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
Construction was completed in 1693. Later Dalai Lamas added five golden roofs and annexes, particularly after the Thirteenth Dalai Lama's stupa hall was built in 1936, giving the palace its present scale.
Murals in Potala Palace (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
Over the past 300-plus years, the palace has amassed an immense collection of historical relics: more than 2,500 square meters of murals, nearly a thousand stupas, tens of thousands of statues, and thangkas (scroll paintings); precious scriptures such as palm-leaf sutras and the Kangyur; and gifts from Ming and Qing emperors, including gold albums, gold seals, jade seals, gold and silver objects, porcelain, enamelware, jade, brocade, and artistic treasures—all vibrant and diverse.
Potala Palace at night (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
Since 1959, the central government has paid great attention to the palace's maintenance and protection, providing regular funding. In 1988, the State Council allocated a huge sum for a major renovation, which began solemnly the following October. With the collaboration of Han and Tibetan engineers, the five-year project was successfully completed, allowing this cultural gem of the Tibetan people to attract countless visitors from home and abroad with new charm.
Tibet Museum (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
My second Lhasa trip mainly focused on visits to Jokhang Temple and the Potala Palace. So, taking advantage of some free time on the afternoon of August 5, I made a point to visit the Tibet Museum and Sera Monastery, which I had missed ten years earlier.
Selected exhibits at Tibet Museum (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
The Tibet Museum is located at the southeastern corner of Norbulingka in Lhasa, the region's first modern museum. In July 1994, it was listed as one of the 62 aid projects for the 30th anniversary of the Tibet Autonomous Region's founding, and it opened in October 1999, celebrating the 50th anniversary of the People's Republic of China and the 40th anniversary of Tibet's democratic reforms.
Sera Monastery in Lhasa (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
The museum covers 53,959 square meters, with a total floor area of 23,508 square meters and an exhibition area of 10,451 square meters, appearing grand and magnificent. The introduction hall, main exhibition hall, and artifact storage are arranged along the central axis, forming a well-organized layout. The museum distinctively embodies traditional Tibetan architectural art while also reflecting modern design's practicality and aesthetic appeal, achieving a unique architectural style that is breathtaking.
Photo at Sera Monastery (Photo: Sun Minghe)
Sera Monastery lies at the foot of Sera Utse Mountain in Lhasa's northern suburbs. There are two stories about its name: one says that a heavy hailstorm ("sera" in Tibetan) occurred during construction, hence the name; the other says it was built in an area lush with wild roses (also "sera" in Tibetan). Its full name is "Sera Thekchenling" (Sera Mahayana Monastery).
A corner of Sera Monastery (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
Sera is a representative Gelugpa monastery, one of the six great Gelugpa monasteries of Tibetan Buddhism, and the last of Lhasa's three major monasteries to be built.
Sera Monastery's Jey College (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
It was founded in 1419 by Jamchen Choje Shakya Yeshe, a disciple of Tsongkhapa, with the patronage of the Lhawu Dzong nobility. In the early 18th century, Gushri Khan expanded it, making it one of the six great Gelugpa monasteries. The main structures include the Tsokchen Assembly Hall, Me Dratsang (monastic colleges), Jey Dratsang, Ngakpa Dratsang, and 32 Khangtsen (dormitories).
Another corner of Sera Monastery (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
The monastery holds a vast collection of precious artifacts and crafts, such as scriptures, statues, ritual objects, robes, silks, gold, and silver bestowed by the emperor when Shakya Yeshe returned from Beijing. Among them, a colored silk portrait of Shakya Yeshe, 109 cm long and 64 cm wide, remains vivid after over 500 years.
Stone murals at Sera Monastery (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
The Tsokchen Assembly Hall safeguards over 200 volumes of the Kangyur and Tengyur scriptures written in gold ink, exceptionally precious. It is said Sera has tens of thousands of gilded bronze statues made in Tibet and many brass ones from India—masterpieces of Tibetan religious art.
Happy moments from my first visit (Photo: Pan Chun)
After a decade away, I found Lhasa transformed beyond recognition. From the moment I stepped out of the railway station until I arrived at the Xuehai Hotel where I stayed, the scenery was all new. Memories of my earlier trip a decade ago kept intertwining with the present views.
Lhasa Railway Station (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
In particular, the Lhasa Railway Station, across the river from the Potala Palace, blends distinct Tibetan style with modern flair and has become a new landmark, adding brilliance to the city.
Photo at Yarlung Tsangpo River (Photo: Sun Minghe)
The Yarlung Tsangpo River, Tibet's mother river, flows ceaselessly. Lhasa's development, like its mother river, will surge forward, always advancing, always soaring. I believe that in the near future, Lhasa will present the world with ever newer and more beautiful splendor... (Text and photos: Feng Gangyong)
