Tibet Travel: A Second Visit to Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatse (Photos)
The renowned Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatse, Tibet was the last stop for me on the 'Charming Qinghai-Tibet Tour' group with China Railway Travel Agency, and it was also one of the key excursions to Shigatse after a week in Lhasa.
En route to Shigatse (Photo: Feng Ganyong)
On August 4, 2007, our tour bus left Lhasa and headed west along the Yarlung Tsangpo River. Known as Tibet's largest river, the Yarlung Tsangpo originates from the Jemayangzong Glacier in Zhongba County, Shigatse Prefecture. It flows eastward through Zhongba, Saga, Gyirong, Ngamring, Lhatse, Sa'gya, Xaitongmoin, Shigatse, Namling, and Rinbung counties before entering the Lhasa area. At Chushul, it converges with the Lhasa River and continues east.
Colorful prayer flags (Photo: Feng Ganyong)
Between Shigatse and Lhasa, the Yarlung Tsangpo River sometimes rushes out of the mountains to form long gorges, or meanders across plains, carving wide valleys. Together with the colorful prayer flags fluttering at the foot of the mountains, these create one beautiful scenic view after another.
The slowly flowing Yarlung Tsangpo (Photo: Feng Ganyong)
This was actually my third trip to Shigatse. Ten years earlier, on August 14, 1997, during my first visit to Tibet, I came to Shigatse specifically to see Tashilhunpo Monastery. The second time was a stopover on my way to Everest Base Camp.
Photo taken at Gyantse Dzong ruins (Photo: Pan Chun)
In particular, on the way from Lhasa to Shigatse, we passed the Gyantse Dzong anti-British site, which later became a filming location for the movie 'Red River Valley' and where I shot footage for a Chinese ethnic sports documentary. So the memories are very vivid. Though I visited Shigatse three times, I've only been to Tashilhunpo Monastery twice.
River water in the gorge (Photo: Feng Ganyong)
In Tibetan, Shigatse is called 'Xigazê,' meaning 'Estate of Wish-Fulfillment.' It lies over 250 kilometers west of Lhasa, where the Nyangchu River meets the Yarlung Tsangpo. With an elevation of 3,800 meters, an area of 3,875 square kilometers, and a population of 82,000, it is Tibet's second-largest city and a religious center. It has a history of over 500 years.
First photo at Tashilhunpo (Photo: Pan Chun)
Shigatse is primarily inhabited by Tibetans, along with Han, Hui, Mongol, Manchu, and other ethnic groups—13 in total. In 1986, it was upgraded from a county to a city with the approval of the State Council. Historically, the Shigatse region was known as Tsang (or Ü-Tsang's rear), and Shigatse was the capital of Tsang. It is the political, economic, cultural, religious, and transportation center of the area, as well as the traditional seat of the Panchen Lamas.
Scenery inside the monastery (Photo: Feng Ganyong)
Shigatse is renowned for famous monasteries such as Tashilhunpo and Shalu. Today, the city is developing rapidly, with highways extending in all directions. From Shigatse, travelers can head west to Ngari, south to the Qomolangma Nature Reserve and Nepal, north to Nagqu, and east to Lhasa and Shannan. This ancient city boasts a long history and rich culture.
My second photo at the monastery (Photo: Sun Minghe)
Notable sites around Shigatse include Gyantse's Palcho Monastery, Sakya Monastery, Phuntsoling Monastery, Jonang Monastery, the Pala Manor, and the vast Qomolangma Nature Reserve covering over 30,000 square kilometers. Annual events such as the Tashilhunpo Buddha Unveiling Festival and Cham Dance Festival, along with Shalu Monastery's Simchenpo Festival and Tibetan opera performances, are famous for their unique styles. Today, with its ancient culture, majestic temple architecture, magnificent natural landscapes, and strategic location, Shigatse has become one of Tibet's most alluring tourist destinations.
Eco-friendly solar energy (Photo: Feng Ganyong)
On the way to Shigatse, I noticed that local Tibetans commonly make full use of the abundant solar energy for daily life. A kettle placed on a reflective stand could boil water in just over 20 minutes. It was surprising to see such practical, home eco-friendly equipment in remote Tibet. I asked, and a solar cooker like that costs around 300 yuan.
Peaceful river waters (Photo: Feng Ganyong)
Approaching Shigatse, the Yarlung Tsangpo gradually widened. In the distance, we could see the resplendent golden rooftops of Tashilhunpo Monastery. After about eight hours on the road, the tour group finally arrived at the site.
Cultural relics protection monument (Photo: Feng Ganyong)
The monastery's full name is 'Tashilhunpo Palkyi Dechen Chökhor Jêlê Nampar Gyalwä Ling,' meaning 'Auspicious Heap of Splendor and Joy, Ornament of the World and Glory of All Realms,' but it is simply called Tashilhunpo. Situated on the southern slope of Nyima Ri Hill northwest of Shigatse city, it is built against the mountain with interconnected palaces and halls, creating an imposing sight. It is the largest Gelugpa monastery in Tsang.
Tashilhunpo Monastery (Photo: Feng Ganyong)
Tashilhunpo is not only the largest monastery in the Shigatse area but also one of the six great Gelugpa monasteries in China, alongside Drepung, Sera, and Ganden monasteries in Lhasa, Kumbum Monastery in Qinghai, and Labrang Monastery in southern Gansu.
Main hall of Tashilhunpo (Photo: Feng Ganyong)
The monastery was founded under the leadership of Gendun Drup, the First Dalai Lama and a prominent disciple of Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Gelug school. Gendun Drup was born into a nomadic family in Gume, Tibet. From a young age, he diligently studied Buddhist doctrine and later became a student of Tsongkhapa, eventually becoming a renowned figure.
Monks chanting sutras (Photo: Feng Ganyong)
Tashilhunpo comprises four major Zhacang (colleges), 62 Micun (residential units based on monks' origins), and nearly 60 chapels and stupa halls. At its center is the temple zone, which includes the Assembly Hall (Tsokchen), the four colleges, the Panchen Lama's residence, the Jampa (Maitreya) Buddha Hall, and the stupa-chapels of past Panchen Lamas.
Murals inside the monastery (Photo: Feng Ganyong)
The Tsokchen Assembly Hall is the oldest building in the monastery. Inside, the debating courtyard covers about 500 square meters. The main hall features 48 pillars and can accommodate over 3,000 people; it is the center of religious activities. In the northern shrine are statues of Shakyamuni commissioned by Gendun Drup in memory of his teacher Shérap Senggé, with statues of Tsongkhapa and his two chief disciples at the center.
Monks within the monastery (Photo: Feng Ganyong)
To the right of the shrine is the Jampa Buddha Hall, which houses an 11-meter-tall statue of Maitreya, flanked by statues of Avalokiteshvara and Manjushri personally crafted by the First Dalai Lama. To the left is the Tara Hall with a gilded white Tara. The western part of the temple contains a protector deity chapel with statues of Yamantaka, six-armed Mahakala, white Mahakala, and Palden Lhamo.
A corner of the monastery (Photo: Feng Ganyong)
One of the four colleges, the Shartse Zhacang, enshrines a mural of Tsongkhapa, a gilded bronze Shakyamuni, and six-armed Mahakala. The Jikang Zhacang's main hall has 24 pillars and houses Shakyamuni with his eight principal disciples, along with Zhari-ma and sister protector deities. The Tosamling Zhacang also has a main hall with 24 pillars, divided into shrines on the east and west sides.
First time doing kora at the monastery (Photo: Feng Ganyong)
The west shrine has statues of Shakyamuni, the eleven-faced Avalokiteshvara, and Vajrapani, while the east shrine features a trinity of Shakyamuni and two accompanying figures, along with goddess protectors. The Ngaba Zhacang is the monastery's Tantric College, founded in 1615 by the Fourth Panchen Lama, Lobsang Chökyi Gyaltsen. Its hall has 16 pillars, with murals of yidam and gurus, and within are the throne of the vajra master and a silver stupa of Master Gonpo Gyaltsen.
Monks' living quarters (Photo: Feng Ganyong)
The Panchen Lama's Lhabrang refers to the palaces of successive Panchen Lamas within the monastery; there are four such residences and many living quarters. In 1660, the Fourth Panchen Lama, Lobsang Chökyi Gyaltsen, became the 16th abbot and carried out a major expansion. In 1645, Güshi Khan bestowed upon him the title 'Panchen Bogdo'; in 1713, the Qing court conferred the title 'Panchen Erdeni' on the Fifth Panchen Lama, Lobsang Yeshe. Thus, the position of the Panchen Lama was solidified, and the monastery became the traditional seat of the Panchen Lamas.
Buddha Display Platform (Photo: Feng Ganyong)
The Jampa Buddha Hall was built in 1914 under the supervision of the Ninth Panchen Lama, Chökyi Nyima. Standing 30 meters high with a floor area of 862 square meters, it has five levels – the lotus throne, waist, chest, face, and crown halls – accessed by a wooden staircase. It consumed 8,928 liang (about 500 kg) of gold and some 115 tons of copper.
A corner of the Buddha hall (Photo: Feng Ganyong)
The Maitreya statue inside is 26.7 m tall, with a face 4.2 m wide, ears 2.8 m long, hands 1.6 m wide and 3.6 m long, feet 4.2 m long, and shoulders 11.5 m wide. The urna (white curl between the brows) alone is set with a giant diamond 3 cm in diameter, 32 diamonds of 1 cm diameter, over 300 large pearls, and more than 1,400 pieces of amber, coral, and turquoise – a testimony to its cost and craftsmanship.
Debate session (Photo: Feng Ganyong)
Besides its priceless statues, stupas, and Thangkas, Tashilhunpo houses hand-written palm-leaf sutras and manuscripts of the Kangyur and Tengyur written in gold powder. Also on display are porcelain, enamelware, and glassware from the Ming and Qing dynasties. All these are invaluable treasures for studying Tibet's political, religious, and social development over the centuries. Moreover, the monastery's murals are distinctive, with their ever-changing forms, brilliant colors, and meticulous brushwork – another masterpiece of Buddhist art.
Thangka and prayer flags (Photo: Feng Ganyong)
After visiting the monastery, the group stayed overnight at a hotel in Shigatse city. On the morning of August 5, our bus left for the next scenic spot: Yamdrok Lake. Yamdrok, along with Namtso and Manasarovar, is one of Tibet's three sacred lakes. It is the largest inland lake at the northern foot of the Himalayas, and its stunning landscape is unparalleled in southern Tibet.
Heading to Yamdrok Lake (Photo: Feng Ganyong)
Yamdrok means 'Turquoise Lake' or 'Swan Pool' in Tibetan. Spanning Nagarze and Gonggar counties in Shannan, it covers 638 square kilometers at an elevation of 4,441 meters, with a shoreline of 250 kilometers. The lake is dotted with numerous inlets, resembling coral branches, its crystal-clear blue waters reflecting the sky. The scenery is diverse and beautiful, encompassing snow peaks, glaciers, islands, pastures, farmlands, and hot springs.
Lakeside scenery (Photo: Feng Ganyong)
The road to Yamdrok Lake is quite treacherous. I had been here ten years earlier, when the mountain road was bumpy and in terrible condition. The Hino minibus I was in got stuck twice, and we had to lay stones and push to get going. Now, a decade later, it's still a mountain road, but it has been paved with smooth asphalt.
Driving up Kampa La, the views from the window were breathtaking. The winding black road against the lush green mountainside was especially striking. The lakeshore has always been excellent pastureland, with abundant livestock and wildlife. On the surrounding mountains at 5,000 meters, you can find marmots, and occasionally wild goats and foxes can be spotted on the grasslands.
My photo at Yamdrok Lake (Photo: Sun Minghe)
It is said that Yamdrok Lake is revered as Yamdrok Dalkyim, the lake's principal deity Dorje Gekyizom, the Vajra-Obstacle Master, a female protector deity of Tibet. Thus, the lake is both an embodiment of a naga maiden and the abode of the goddess, endowed with multiple functions and powers. The trip to Tashilhunpo Monastery allowed us to experience profound Buddhist culture while also enjoying the beauty of Yamdrok Lake. It was another great reward of our Tibet journey. With this, our tour group would soon complete the Tibet leg and head to Qinghai... (Text and photos: Feng Ganyong)
