A 22-Day Journey into the Snowy Plateau: Tibet

Tibet had been a place I had longed for since forever, but worried that my body couldn't handle the high altitude, I never went. Until last year I finally decided to go in October, only to be thwarted by the unending pandemic, thus missing the best time to visit. This year, with all regions adjusting their pandemic policies, travel has become smooth. After the lunar New Year, as temperatures slowly warmed, we set off for the snow-covered plateau beneath the blue sky and white clouds. Unable to find a direct flight from Tianjin to Lhasa, we opted to transfer in Chengdu, giving ourselves a few days to explore Chengdu.

Expenses (for two people) totalled 27,573.01 RMB, including:

- Transportation (including car rental 8,600 RMB) 16,043 RMB

- Accommodation 4,116.13 RMB

- Entrance fees (including scenic shuttle buses etc.) 1,638 RMB

- Shopping, dining, city transport and miscellaneous 5,775.88 RMB

We took a 9:30 am flight, arriving at Chengdu's Shuangliu Airport around noon. As we had already booked a morning flight to Lhasa the next day, we chose a hotel near the airport for convenience. After checking in, we decided to use the half-day afternoon to visit Wenshu Monastery in the city centre. We took the subway from Shuangliu Square, exited at Wenshu Monastery Station, and walked a short distance to the gate.

Wenshu Monastery is located in Qingyang District, Chengdu, covering over 200,000 square metres. It was first built during the Daye era of the Sui Dynasty (605–617), originally named Xinxiang Temple. In the fifth year of Huichang (845), Emperor Wuzong of Tang suppressed Buddhism, destroying the temple. In the 36th year of Kangxi's reign (1697), funds were raised to rebuild the temple, renamed Wenshu Monastery. The Kangxi Emperor personally inscribed "Kong Lin" (Empty Forest) and bestowed an imperial seal with "Chi Ci Kong Lin". His calligraphy is still preserved today. The monastery is one of the key national Chinese-language Buddhist monasteries designated by the State Council, and the foremost of the four major Zen monasteries along the upper and lower Yangtze. It is a Buddhist sacred site combining Zen forest relics, ancient garden architecture, pilgrimage sightseeing, and religious study. The existing buildings are typical of the ancient Western Sichuan plain style, all wooden, with six main halls aligned along the central axis facing the mountain gate, grand and magnificent.

It was the start of the school season, so many students came to pray to Manjusri Bodhisattva, making the usually quiet monastery lively.

Visiting Wenshu Monastery, apart from soaking in its profound human history, is also about the food. Around the monastery there are many Chengdu specialties. After our visit, we had dinner on the commercial street in front, then returned to the hotel to rest.

Just before dawn, we were at the airport. The plane took off on time at 6 am. As we entered Tibet, the sun rose, and we could see endless snow mountains bathed in the morning glow, desolate and mysterious.

On the way from Chengdu to Lhasa

On the way from Chengdu to Lhasa

On the way from Chengdu to Lhasa

The plane landed at Lhasa Gonggar Airport after 9 am. Considering Lhasa's high altitude, we chose to first visit the relatively lower-altitude Nyingchi area to acclimatize, then return to Lhasa later. From Gonggar Airport, we took a bus to Lhasa Railway Station, then transferred to a high-speed train to Nyingchi.

On the way from Lhasa to Nyingchi, the beautiful highland scenery unfolded before us.

Lhasa-Nyingchi on the way

Lhasa-Nyingchi on the way

Lhasa-Nyingchi on the way

Lhasa-Nyingchi on the way

Tibet is two hours behind inland China. By the time we arrived in Nyingchi it was nearly 6 pm, but the sun hadn't set yet. We had booked a hotel near the long-distance bus station in town. Nyingchi railway station is over 20 km from the city centre; outside the station we took a minibus, which took over half an hour to reach the city.

After two days of travelling into the highlands, we planned to start with a visit to the nearby Cuomujiri Scenic Area. After booking tickets online, we took a taxi there, only to find out at the gate that due to icy mountain roads, the area was closed for the day. We had to turn back.

Being new to the plateau, we had scheduled our time loosely to acclimatize. Since Cuomujiri was inaccessible and we had no other plans, we strolled along the Nyang River near our hotel.

Originating on the western side of Mount Mira, the Nyang River is 307.5 km long with a drop of 2,273 metres, flowing from west to east. It is one of the five major tributaries of the Yarlung Tsangpo River basin. The river has crystal-clear water, and both banks are well-preserved with forest vegetation. It is the "mother river" of the Gongbo people.

The Nyang River is mainly fed by snowmelt. In summer it would be stunning. Unfortunately we were there in the dry season: large stretches of gravel lay exposed in the riverbed, with thin streams slowly meandering among them, interspersed with a few puddles. Distant snow mountains peeked through the clouds.

After a while by the river, on the way back to the hotel we finalized a car rental arrangement with an agency we had checked out the night before, then returned to rest.

Today marked the real start of our highland journey. Our first destination was Basum Co. At 9 am, our driver, Master Xiang, picked us up at the hotel.

About an hour out of Nyingchi city, it suddenly started snowing. We thought we were in for bad weather, but Master Xiang said the weather on the plateau changes fast – the snow might stop any minute. After another hour on winding mountain roads, sure enough, the snow stopped just as we reached the scenic area.

Basum Co, also called Cuogao Lake, means "green water" in Tibetan. It lies in a deep gorge in the upper reaches of the Ba River, over 50 km from Gongbo'gyamda County, Nyingchi. The lake surface is at an altitude of over 3,700 metres. It is a famous sacred lake and holy site of the Nyingma (Red Hat) school of Tibetan Buddhism. The area combines snow mountains, lakes, forests, waterfall pastures, cultural relics, and ancient temples, with ever-changing scenery through the seasons, and a plethora of rare wild plants – truly a paradise on earth, often dubbed "Little Switzerland".

Master Xiang dropped us at the gate, gave us some tips for moving around at altitude, and told us to take our time and not rush; he'd wait outside.

We took a park shuttle bus in, first heading to the Lake Heart Island.

The Island, called Tashi Island, is about 100 metres from the shore, connected by a boardwalk. Legend says it is a "hollow island", floating on the water without touching the lakebed. On the island stands the Tang Dynasty structure Tsodzong Gongba Temple, a famous Red Hat Nyingma temple built in the late Tang, over 1,500 years old. The temple is a two-storey wood-earth structure, housing statues of Padmasambhava, Thousand-Armed Avalokiteshvara, and the Golden Boy and Jade Girl.

The island isn't large; a loop on foot takes about half an hour. From there, you can take a boat tour of Basum Co or walk along the lakeside boardwalk. Most visitors choose the boat or just walk a short section of the boardwalk before turning back. We opted to follow the boardwalk.

The water of Basum Co is crystal clear, reflecting the surrounding snow mountains. At noon the sun came out, bathing the snowy peaks in a brilliant glow.

We leisurely walked and played, going all the way to the end of the boardwalk before heading back. Returning to the shuttle stop, we boarded the shuttle to the viewing platform. After climbing a flight of steps, we could look down and enjoy the beautiful scenery of Basum Co and the Lake Heart Island.

After descending, we took the shuttle back to the main gate.

It was still early, so we decided to visit Kadhinggou on the way back. En route, we passed the Xiuba ancient fortress cluster and decided to stop.

Xiuba Fortress is located in Xiuba Village, Bahe Town, Gongbo'gyamda County. Also called "Rongbao", it is what people usually refer to as beacon towers, an ancient military castle built against the mountain. First constructed in the late Tang Dynasty over 1,600 years ago, it is the oldest, most ancient, densest, and best-preserved fortress cluster in Tibet. Today it lies in ruins as a historical site.

The cluster consists of five towers of varying heights, spaced about 30 to 50 metres apart, mutually supporting each other. Amazingly, the entire fortress is built of stone slabs and wooden planks, hollow inside, open at the top, with a 12-sided prism shape on the outside and a regular octagon inside. After a millennium of wind and rain, the towers still stand sturdy and upright, truly demonstrating the exquisite building craftsmanship of ancient Tibetans.

After about half an hour, we continued to Kadhinggou.

Kadhinggou Scenic Area, also known as Kadhing Heavenly Buddha Waterfall Forest Scenic Area, is located on the bank of the Nyang River, 24 km from Bayi Town along National Highway 318. The ravine is filled with towering ancient trees, murmuring streams, and a refreshingly serene environment. The cliff faces on both sides have peculiar shapes resembling Buddhas and animals. The main attraction is the Heavenly Buddha Waterfall, a nearly 200-metre drop cascading down like a silver chain, magnificent and grand. Within the waterfall, a naturally formed image of a Buddha with a kind face appears and disappears, hence the name. When the water is low, it hangs like a silver ribbon; when high, it's thunderously majestic. On the rock wall behind the waterfall are naturally formed Buddhist figures, said to be the protective deity of the Tibetan compatriots in Nyingchi, so vivid they seem carved. Flanking the Buddha are a male and female guardian, both with solemn expressions, incredibly lifelike. The female guardian, Palden Lhamo, stands over 100 metres tall, discernible with a veil, a sash, and prayer beads, vividly true to life; on the left is Ji Gong paying homage to Buddha, equally realistic. Besides the Heavenly Buddha and guardians, there are many other abstract natural Buddhist formations on the cliffs, such as Tathagata, Avalokiteshvara, lama chanting, divine turtle calling to heaven, divine eagle offering treasure, and butter lamps. It's said that those with a Buddhist affinity can see their forms more clearly.

Just as we entered, we met a tour guide leading a group and explaining. We tagged along, listening to him and observing the various strange shapes on the cliffs. By the time we reached the waterfall, snowflakes started to fall, and soon everything was shrouded in mist, the cliff figures blurry.

By the time we returned to the entrance, we were covered in a layer of snow. Back in the car, today's itinerary ended, and we returned to Nyingchi city around 7 pm.

Nyingchi is famous for its stone pots. Back in town, we tasted the stone-pot mushroom soup with yak meat – generous portions, tender yak, and delicious mushroom broth.

Stone-pot mushroom soup yak meat

Today we would cross Sejila Mountain to visit Yiong Township for rapeseed flowers and peach blossoms. Master Xiang picked us up on time, and we left Nyingchi for Yiong.

Driving along National Highway 318, after passing Nyingchi Town we entered Sejila Mountain. Sejila is part of the Nyainqentanglha Range, the dividing boundary between eastern and central-western Nyingchi County, and the watershed between the Nyang River basin and the Parlung Tsangpo. The southern route of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway crosses it. We heard it had snowed heavily last night, and today the slopes were covered in thick white snow.

By noon we reached the Sejila Pass viewing platform, where snow on the platform gleamed blindingly in the sun. In the distance, Mount Namcha Barwa was shrouded in thick clouds. On a clear day, at 4,728 metres, the pass offers a vast panorama of the endless Lulang Forest and the majestic beauty of Namcha Barwa.

Namcha Barwa lies at the junction of the Himalayas, the Nyainqentanglha and the Henduan Mountains, and is the highest mountain in Nyingchi, Tibet. It is a sacred mountain of the ancient Bon religion, known as the "Father of All Mountains in Tibet". Its huge triangular peak is perpetually snow-covered and veiled in mist, rarely revealing its true face, hence the nickname "Shy Maiden Peak".

Since we would pass here again on the return, we didn't linger, just took a few photos and left.

The car continued along the mountain road, with steep cliffs on one side and an endless forest on the other. Dotted in the distant valleys were some dwellings. Master Xiang explained that this was the famous Lulang Forest.

Lulang Forest is located on the southern route of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway (G318), a forest amidst a sea of clouds and mist. Snow peaks stand around, the ravines are lush with forest, and between the trees are meadows so even they look manicured, with thousands of wildflowers blooming – truly picturesque.

Winding down from Sejila Mountain, we arrived at Lulang Town.

Lulang Town is in Bayi District, Nyingchi, a tranquil town embraced by forested mountains. Distant peaks are wreathed in cloud, streams meander, and wildflowers adorn alpine meadows. It is known as the "Switzerland of the Snowy Plateau" or "Tibetan Jiangnan", with serene, beautiful scenery.

We didn't stop in Lulang today as we were heading to Yiong. Continuing beyond Lulang along G318, we reached the Pailong Natural Barrier. This was once the most treacherous section of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, notoriously narrow, rough, and dangerous. Due to loose, fragile mountain terrain, landslides and mudslides often occur with rain or snowmelt, cutting off traffic; even in dry season, heavy trucks leave deep ruts and scattered rocks, causing small cars to scrape bottom.

Now tunnels and bridges have turned this perilous stretch into a safe passage.

After the Pailong barrier, we temporarily left G318 and turned onto the branch road to Yiong.

Yiong is a township under Bomê County, Nyingchi, Tibet. Its name means "beautiful" in Tibetan. Around the Yiong Valley and Yiong Lake are many narrow terraces, with altitudes from 1,900 to 2,300 metres. It has mild winters and cool summers, high humidity, and relatively weak sunlight, making it the only tea-producing area in Tibet, home to the renowned Yiong Tea Plantation.

The plantation is at 2,240 metres, currently the highest tea plantation in China. Entering Yiong, we first passed the "First Tea Field of Yiong".

First Tea Field of Yiong

First Tea Field of Yiong

We continued along Yiong Lake, with many farmhouses on the shore, fields of blooming rapeseed flowers and scattered peach blossoms, against the backdrop of snow mountains and lake water – extraordinarily beautiful.

After circling the lake, we arrived at the headquarters of Yiong Tea Plantation and visited the General's Mansion where former Tibet Military Region Commander General Zhang Guohua once worked.

Leaving Yiong, we rejoined G318, passed the Tongmai Bridge and the milestone at 3,000 km of G318, and reached Bomê County town.

Milestone at 3,000 km of G318

Today we would travel the Zhamo Highway to the mysterious Mêdog.

The Zhamo Highway starts from Zhamo Town in Bomê County and ends at Lianhua Square in Mêdog County. It was reconstructed and improved from the original rough road to Mêdog, spanning 117.278 km, crossing six rivers including the Bodui Zangbo and the Jinzhu Zangbo, passes Gala Temple, and tunnels through Galong La Snow Mountain to reach Mêdog County. Due to the extremely complex geological conditions in southern Tibet, with frequent geological disasters like mudslides, construction was immensely difficult. Started in 1975, repeatedly damaged by natural disasters and halted, it wasn't until October 31, 2013 that the road officially opened, ending Mêdog's history as China's last county without road access.

Heading south from Zhamo Town, we first had to cross Galong La Snow Mountain, one of the essential routes to Mêdog. Galong La lies on the border of Mêdog and Bomê counties, part of the Gangrigabu Range (also the northwestern tip of the Henduan Mountains). With an average altitude of 4,800 metres and a pass at around 4,200 metres, it's the convergence zone of warm, moist Indian Ocean air from the south and cold, high-altitude air from the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, so the weather is highly changeable. Locals revere it as a sacred mountain. The peak is snow-covered year-round, with several glaciers; meltwater eventually feeds tributaries of the Yarlung Tsangpo.

Thick snow piled high on both sides of the road, and we drove through a corridor of snow walls over half a metre tall.

After passing the 52K checkpoint, we reached the Galong La Tunnel.

The Galong La Tunnel is the critical project of the Mêdog Highway. It is 3,310 metres long, at an average elevation of 3,700 metres. The weather during construction was harsh, passing through multiple geological fault zones, with fractured rock and high water inflow, making geological and hydrological conditions extremely complex. From November to April each year, heavy snow seals the mountain, greatly inconveniencing local life. The tunnel not only saves time crossing the mountain but also avoids the difficulty of impassable snow, a miracle in road construction history, symbolising the end of generations of isolation by the vast snow mountains.

When we reached the tunnel, it was buried in deep snow. Since we'd pass again on our return, we didn't linger and pushed on to Mêdog County. From 3,700 metres at the tunnel to just over 1,000 metres in Mêdog town, there were many continuous downhill stretches. In one day, we experienced four seasons, from snowy mountains to lush tropical rainforest.

The Mêdog Tropical Rainforest is the northernmost tropical rainforest on earth, with the lowest altitude, mildest climate, most abundant rainfall, and best-preserved ecology on the Tibetan Plateau.

We arrived in Mêdog town at noon. Mêdog is called "Pemako" in Tibetan, meaning "hidden lotus", also the birthplace of the legendary Sixth Dalai Lama, Tsangyang Gyatso. In 2013, it became China's last county accessible by highway.

First we went to Rinchen Pung Monastery on Zimala Mountain, south of Mêdog village, but found it closed for renovations. Then we visited a viewpoint called "Mirage", where you can overlook the meandering Yarlung Tsangpo River and the whole Mêdog county town.

"Mirage" viewpoint

"Mirage" viewpoint

"Mirage" viewpoint

Continuing from the viewpoint, we reached the famous U-shaped bend of the Yarlung Tsangpo, the Guoguotang Great Bend.

The Guoguotang Great Bend is about 20 km from Mêdog town on the mountain. It's the most iconic spot in Mêdog. The Yarlung Tsangpo makes a huge loop here, locally known as the snake bend. From above, the bend resembles a lollipop, hence the name Guoguotang. It's the truly great bend of the Yarlung Tsangpo. There's a lotus-shaped viewing platform where visitors can overlook the magnificent Yarlung Tsangpo Grand Canyon, with clouds and mist, partially hidden, breathtakingly spectacular.

Yarlung Tsangpo Guoguotang Great Bend

Yarlung Tsangpo Guoguotang Great Bend

After leaving, we visited the Mêdog Menluo Historical and Cultural Heritage Museum.

The museum, also called "Lotus Pavilion", sits on a hilltop at the edge of Mêdog town. Inside, it details Mêdog's geography, the farming and lifestyle of the Monpa and Lhoba people, ancient hunting culture, religion, customs, traditional weaving and handicrafts – a museum of history and culture.

Mêdog Menluo Historical and Cultural Heritage Museum

Mêdog Menluo Historical and Cultural Heritage Museum

Mêdog Menluo Historical and Cultural Heritage Museum

Mêdog Menluo Historical and Cultural Heritage Museum

Lotus Pavilion is a landmark of Mêdog, with strong Monpa-Lhoba ethnic character. From the rooftop observation deck you get a 360° view of the whole town – the best viewpoint and photo spot.

Lotus Pavilion Viewing Platform

Lotus Pavilion Viewing Platform

Leaving the museum, we entered Mêdog town. After checking into the hotel, we strolled around town.

Today we left Mêdog, retracing our route back to Bomê. In the morning, the Zhamo Highway was blanketed in mist, the air moist.

As we drove, we soon reached the Galong La Tunnel. Exiting the tunnel, the golden-roofed, red-walled Gala Temple appeared against the white snow.

We dallied at the pass for a while, then left. After lunch in Bomê town, Master Xiang mentioned that the nearby Gang Yun Spruce Forest had beautiful scenery, so we decided to visit in the afternoon.

Gang Yun Spruce Forest is 22 km west of Zhamo Town, Bomê, covering over 2,800 hectares with a forest coverage rate over 61%, especially noted for its spruce trees. Tall trees, deep forest, lakes, mountains, rivers, and greenery form a captivating picture.

Today we headed to Laigu Glacier. Leaving Bomê, we travelled along G318, first passing Ranwu Lake.

Ranwu Lake is located in Ranwu Township, Baxoi County, Qamdo, formed by a landslide or mudslide blocking a river. To the southwest is the Gangrigabu Snow Mountain, south is the Azha Glacier, and northeast is the Boshula Range. Snowmelt from all around feeds the lake, which drains westward into the Parlung Tsangpo, a major tributary of the Yarlung Tsangpo. The lakeshore is dense virgin forest with many primitive Tibetan villages.

En route, we came across a lake surface where snow peaks were perfectly reflected – jade-green mirror-like water mirroring the mountains, like a thick oil painting. Many self-driving cars had stopped; we did too, playing for a while.

Continuing along the shore of the lake, known as "Jade Pool of the West", the shrubs on both banks complemented the white clouds and blue sky, reflecting a series of richly painted scenes in the water.

We arrived at Laigu Village, where Laigu Glacier is located, around noon. We took a shuttle bus at the entrance, then hiked over a small hill to reach the glacier lake.

Laigu Glacier lies in Ranwu Town, Baxoi County, Qamdo, adjacent to Ranwu Lake. It's a collective name for a group of glaciers, the source of the Parlung Tsangpo, and the largest and widest glacier known in Tibet. The many glaciers surrounding Laigu village form several ice lakes in front of it. Because each glacier has different geology and soil, each lake reflects a different colour; some even have icebergs floating on them, giving a feel of Antarctica. At the terminal ends, the calved glaciers reveal blue ice walls tens of metres high.

Here, glaciers, lakes, farmland, villages, and forests merge, shining with eternal snow. The glaciers are pristine like jade, in diverse shapes, a magical and enchanting sight, a model of harmonious coexistence between humans and nature.

In the morning we left Bomê and returned to Nyingchi. Not far out of Bomê town, we came to Gusong Lake.

Gusong Lake is in Gu Village, 33 km from Bomê county town and 210 km from Nyingchi. The lake surface is at 2,600 metres, 5 km long, up to 2 km wide, and over 20 metres deep, covering 20,000 square metres. It was formed in 1953 when the "Xionglujini" glacier behind Gusong Mountain triggered a massive mudslide from "Kagongnongba" that blocked the Parlung Tsangpo, creating a freshwater barrier lake. There is an island of about 1,000 square metres. The lake is on G318, easily accessible, a natural park.

Thick clouds muted the light, so Gusong Lake wasn't as picturesque as imagined. We took a few photos at the viewing platform and left. On the way back, we passed through Lulang Town again, pausing briefly at an alpine meadow called High Mountain Pasture.

When we passed Sejila Pass again, the sky was overcast, and Namcha Barwa remained hidden in thick clouds.

Fated not to see Namcha Barwa, we didn't stop and arrived back in Nyingchi around noon.

Our Nyingchi journey ended. Today, accompanied by beautiful scenery, we returned to Lhasa.

On the way from Nyingchi to Lhasa

On the way from Nyingchi to Lhasa

On the way from Nyingchi to Lhasa

On the way from Nyingchi to Lhasa

On the way from Nyingchi to Lhasa

On the way from Nyingchi to Lhasa

By the time we checked into our hotel it was dinner time. Next to our hotel was a small shop called Cuomu Liangfen, a popular local snack place frequented by many Lhasa residents. We had dinner there.

After dinner, it was still early, so we visited the nearby Barkhor Street.

Barkhor Street, also known as Octagon Street, is located in the old district of Lhasa. It is the famous circumambulation path and commercial centre, preserving much of the ancient city's traditional appearance and lifestyle. Originally just a single circumambulation path around the Jokhang Temple, Tibetans call it the "Holy Road". Over time it expanded into a large area of old-style blocks surrounding the Jokhang.

The innermost circuit around the Sakyamuni hall inside the Jokhang is called "Nangkor", the circuit around the outer wall of the Jokhang is "Barkhor", and the streets radiating out are "Barkhor Street". The grand circuit that encompasses the Potala Palace, Chagpori, and Ramoche Temple is called "Lingkor". These three concentric rings are the routes for Tibetan pilgrims performing their circumambulation rituals.

There are many shops selling tourist souvenirs on Barkhor Street, with tourists coming and going, while devout Tibetans piously perform their rituals.

Lhasa has many temples, mainly the Jokhang, Ramoche, Sera, and Drepung, as well as Tsanggu Nunnery and Zaxi Lhamo Temple. Visiting the Jokhang requires advance booking; our appointment was for this afternoon. In the morning, we visited Tsanggu Nunnery and Ramoche Temple nearby.

First, we went to Tsanggu Nunnery on Barkhor Street. The nuns run a sweet tea house, a gathering spot for locals, where nuns cook and serve. Most customers are Lhasa residents, chatting over meals. We hadn't had breakfast, so we ate there.

Passing through the front door, the tea house was small but clean, full of elderly Tibetans drinking tea and chatting. We ordered vegetarian noodles, vegetarian buns, and sweet tea, sat in a corner upstairs, eating while watching the bustling street below.

Vegetarian noodles and sweet tea

After breakfast, we visited the nunnery itself.

Tsanggu Nunnery is a Gelugpa Tibetan Buddhist nunnery, the only nunnery in Lhasa city. Its most famous feature is the meditation cave of King Songtsen Gampo on the ground floor of the main hall, which contains a statue of the king. Three nuns are assigned daily to chant scriptures, make offerings, and replenish butter lamps.

The nunnery isn't large; we quickly finished the visit. Walking for over 20 minutes, we reached Ramoche Temple.

Ramoche means "Jia Da Rao Mu Qie" in Tibetan. It is located about 500 metres north of Barkhor Street, built in the mid-7th century (641, Tibetan Iron-Ox year during Songtsen Gampo's reign) by Princess Wencheng. The temple combines Han and Tibetan architectural styles. It is not only one of the oldest temples in Tibet but also a symbol of the unity and friendship between the Han and Tibetan peoples, holding an important place in the history of their relations. After suffering several fires through history, most of the current structures are reconstructions, while only the ground-floor hall is original, with ten pillars hinting at the Tubo style.

Today happened to be the 15th day of the Tibetan lunar New Year. Many Tibetans had come to worship, queuing to pay homage before the statue of Sakyamuni.

It was noon when we finished Ramoche, just in time for our Jokhang appointment. So we walked back to Jokhang Square.

The Jokhang Temple, also called "Zuglagang" or "Jokang" (meaning Buddha Hall in Tibetan), lies at the heart of Lhasa's old town. With over 1,300 years of history, it combines Tibetan, Tang Chinese, Nepalese, and Indian architectural styles. It is the most glorious surviving structure from the Tubo period, Tibet's earliest timber-framed building, and pioneered the Tibetan flat-panel temple layout, becoming a classical model of Tibetan religious architecture. It holds supreme status in Tibetan Buddhism. The temple was originally called "Rasa", which later gave the city its name, evolving into "Lhasa". Built, expanded, and renovated throughout the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties, it reached its present scale. The temple square is always filled with incense smoke, and believers prostrate themselves on the stone slabs in front, leaving deep grooves from generations of full-length prostrations. Countless butter lamps burn eternally, bearing witness to the passage of time and pilgrims.

The square was bustling, with many Tibetans prostrating at the temple entrance.

Inside was even more crowded, as many worshippers carried butter and khata (ceremonial scarves) for offerings. Jostled in the crowd, we couldn't properly admire the exquisite statues and murals, so we hurried through and exited. It was still early, so we decided to go to Norbulingka. Taking a bus, we got off at Norbulingka and saw the Tibet Museum directly across the street, so we visited it first.

The Tibet Museum is in the southeast corner of Norbulingka, Lhasa. It is Tibet's first museum with modern facilities, featuring distinct traditional Tibetan architectural features while embodying modern practicality and artistic charm. The exhibition halls consist of four parts: Prehistoric Culture, Indivisible History, Cultural Art, and Folk Culture. They display over a thousand precious artefacts, including various buddhas and bodhisattvas in different materials and poses, hand-copied Tibetan scriptures in gold, silver, and coral powder from various dynasties, gold seals bestowed by central governments on great lamas, the golden urn and jade slips used in the lot-drawing ceremony for selecting reincarnated lamas, colourful thangkas, musical instruments, ritual implements, distinctive ethnic handicrafts, and unique pottery.

Tibet Museum Observation Deck

After the museum, it was nearly 5 pm, and we were tired, so we decided to skip Norbulingka for now and take the bus back to the hotel.

Today we were going to Yamdrok Yumtso, one of Tibet's three sacred lakes. Since there were no direct buses, we joined a one-day tour group.

Yamdrok Yumtso, often called Yamdrok Lake, means "Turquoise Lake" in Tibetan. Located in Nagarzê County, Shannan, it is one of the three sacred lakes along with Namtso and Manasarovar, and the largest inland lake in the northern foothills of the Himalayas. Its beauty of lakes and mountains is unrivalled in southern Tibet. The lake is a mirror-like expanse of blue, with rich pastures along the shore, making it a fertile highland pasture. A local folk song praises it: "Heaven's paradise, earth's Yamdrok; heaven's starry sky, lakeside cattle and sheep."

The tour vehicle picked us up in the morning. Leaving Lhasa, we drove along winding mountain roads, stopping at several viewing points offering different aerial perspectives of Yamdrok Lake.

On the way from Lhasa to Yamdrok Lake

On the way from Lhasa to Yamdrok Lake

Lurila Viewpoint

Lurila Viewpoint

Lurila Viewpoint

Lurila Viewpoint

After a bumpy ride, we arrived at Rituo Monastery at noon.

Rituo means "stone on the mountain". It stands on a peninsula on the northern shore of Yamdrok Lake, built into the hill, the only structure there. The temple has only one monk residing year-round, guarding it in solitude for life – known as the loneliest temple in the world. One lake, one temple, one monk, one lifetime, for 700 springs and autumns, as seasons change, days dawn and dusk, this is his practice, a way of life he can no longer leave.

Standing on the island surrounded by the lake, feeling the lake breeze, you can sense being enveloped 360° by Yamdrok Lake. Blue sky, turquoise lake, brown mountains, a red temple – like a dreamlike painting, making you feel transported, your heart open and boundless.

On the peninsula, you can get up close to the lake, with its deep blue, clear water reflecting white clouds; near the shore, aquatic plants sway in the shallow water.

We returned to Lhasa around 7 pm. The bus dropped us at the White Pagoda Parking Lot near the Potala Palace. Right next to it was a popular yak yogurt shop, so we tried the rich, creamy yak yogurt.

Nearby Chagpori is the best spot for a panoramic view of the Potala Palace, where the image on the back of the 50-yuan note was captured. We planned to go up, but found that visitors are not allowed after 5 pm. So we went to the Potala Palace Square across from the parking lot to wait for the night view.

Potala Palace Square

Potala Palace night view

Potala Palace night view

The Potala Palace is a must-see in Tibet. We had booked our visit two days in advance.

The Potala Palace is situated on Marpo Ri hill in northwest Lhasa, the capital of Tibet. It is a fortress-palace complex, originally built by King Songtsen Gampo for his marriage to Princess Wencheng. Reconstructed in the 17th century, it became the winter residence of successive Dalai Lamas and the centre of Tibet's theocratic rule. Built into the hillside, it is a combination of palace, castle, and temple, grand and imposing. The entire palace is in Tibetan style, with the main structure extending downwards on both sides to meet high walls, divided into the White Palace and the Red Palace.

We first toured the White Palace, then climbed stone steps to the Red Palace. Inside, the Red Palace is sumptuously decorated, displaying a wealth of exquisite and valuable cultural relics; photography inside the Red Palace is not permitted.

Coming down from the rear of the Potala, at the foot of the hill is Zongjiao Lukang Park, a public park in Lhasa. Tso Jiji Lake is an artificial lake in the park, lined with ancient willow trees, offering charming views.

Zongjiao Lukang Park

Zongjiao Lukang Park

Zongjiao Lukang Park

From the park, we took a bus to Norbulingka in the western suburbs of Lhasa.

Norbulingka was built in the 1740s (under the Seventh Dalai Lama) as the summer residence of the Dalai Lamas. It is a typical Tibetan-style garden. Expanded over 200 years, it now covers 360,000 square metres, with the main buildings being Kelsang Podrang, Serpod Podrang, and Takten Mingyur Podrang. It is the largest, most scenic, and most historically rich man-made garden in Tibet. High platforms and low pools are arranged naturally, making the most of the scenery. The landscape design combines Tibetan plateau features with traditional Chinese garden techniques, using architecture, rocks, water, and trees to create varied atmospheres. Thick trees hide Tibetan-style structures like the Lake Heart Palace and Dragon King Pavilion, creating a secluded and charming environment. The fresh air and serene surroundings have a unique simplicity and naturalness characteristic of Tibetan gardens.

After Norbulingka, we returned to Barkhor Street and enjoyed a delicious Tibetan-style yak meat hotpot at a restaurant called Nansalong Zangcan.

Tibetan-style yak meat hotpot

In the morning, we took a high-speed train from Lhasa station, arriving in Shigatse two and a half hours later. From Shigatse station, we took a bus to Tashilhunpo Monastery.

Tashilhunpo Monastery is located at the foot of Nyiseri Mountain in Shigatse. Its full name is "Tashilhunpo Baijideqin Qutangjie Lenanba Jiewalin", meaning "Auspicious Sumeru, Gathering Bliss, Exceeding All Directions". It was founded in the 12th year of Zhengtong in the Ming Dynasty by Gendun Drup, a disciple of Tsongkhapa. Later, the Fourth Panchen Lama, Lobsang Chokyi Gyaltsen, expanded it. Tashilhunpo is one of the six great Gelugpa monasteries in China, and together with Lhasa's "Three Great Monasteries" – Ganden, Sera, and Drepung – forms the "Four Great Monasteries" of the Gelug tradition. These four, plus Kumbum in Qinghai and Labrang in Gansu, make up the "Six Great Monasteries". Covering 150,000 square metres, the monastery is enclosed by walls winding 3,000 metres along the mountain contours. The buildings are built up the slope, with halls progressively rising, balanced and harmonious.

Not many tourists come to Shigatse. The shops on the street in front of Tashilhunpo mostly sell daily necessities for locals. After visiting the monastery, we wandered around town and took the 7 pm train back to Lhasa.

We had heard that Zaxi Lhamo Temple is Tibet's God of Wealth temple, and the deity likes to drink, often getting drunk. So it's best to go early before he's intoxicated. Following local custom, we visited the temple after breakfast.

Zaxi Lhamo Temple is on Zaxi Road in northern Lhasa, a branch of Sera Monastery, and the only wealth god temple in Tibet. The wealth deity is called "Zaxi Lhamo" in Tibetan. Though small, it's very popular, with many worshipers.

After the visit, we took a bus for half an hour to Sera Monastery.

Sera Monastery is located 3 km north of Lhasa on the slope of Sera Utse Mountain. Its full name is "Sera Mahayana Monastery", one of the six great Gelugpa monasteries, and along with Drepung and Ganden, makes up the "Three Great Monasteries of Lhasa". It has been a place where eminent monks and living buddhas have taught since ancient times.

The architecture of Sera is dense but not crowded, mixed but not disorderly, adapted to the terrain, with a prominent main structure, reflecting the distinctive style of a Gelugpa great monastery. The earliest buildings centre on the Mê Dratsang and Ngaba Dratsang, and subsequent additions have created today's scale. Inside are over ten thousand vajra buddha statues, mostly made locally, with some from inland China or India. The walls of the main hall and the dratsang assembly halls preserve large original coloured murals. The most famous statue is the "Hayagriva" in the main hall.

Few tourists visit Sera. After touring the temple, we had hoped to see the monks debate, but the debating courtyard was closed. So we took a bus back to Barkhor Street. We happened to get off near Chongsaikang Market and decided to browse.

Chongsaikang General Market is in Chengguan District, Lhasa, a market for daily commodities. "Chongsaikang" means "market" or "bazaar" in Tibetan. The building to the east of the market was once a noble mansion called "Wangdian Beba", where aristocrats would occasionally stand on the second-floor windows to "inspect" the market activities and order.

The market is small, mainly selling everyday items. Nearby stands an old building that once housed the Qing Dynasty Amban's office, now the "Exhibition Hall of the Former Site of the Qing Government's Amban Office in Tibet".

The hall is located in a traditional Tibetan compound called "Chongsaikang Zhakang", a three-storey Tibetan-style building on North Barkhor Street, in the heart of Lhasa's old city, with over 300 years of history. The Qing government established its first Amban office here, where the imperial commissioner worked and lived. From the south-facing windows of the compound, the Amban could closely appreciate the bustling Barkhor Street, hence the name "Chongsaikang" – "the house that sees the market".

Former Amban Office Exhibition Hall

Former Amban Office Exhibition Hall

Former Amban Office Exhibition Hall

Former Amban Office Exhibition Hall

Former Amban Office Exhibition Hall

Former Amban Office Exhibition Hall

After the exhibition, we continued strolling on Barkhor Street.

At dinner time, we tried a Tibetan restaurant called Ga Jixiang on Barkhor Street, sampling stuffed tripe and ginseng fruit fried rice. The yak meat wrapped in tripe and the slightly sweet fried rice were delicious. Later online we learned that Tibetan ginseng fruit is actually the root of a potentilla plant.

Ginseng fruit fried rice

After dinner, we bought some souvenirs on Barkhor Street and returned to the hotel.

Today was our last day in Tibet, and we were going to the sacred lake Namtso. The drive from Lhasa takes 4 hours one way, so we booked a tour group day trip.

We set off at dawn. Shortly after leaving the city, the vehicle entered the Nyainqentanglha Mountains.

The Nyainqentanglha Range is one of the main ranges of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. Its main peak, Nyainqentanglha, at 7,162 metres, is a majestic silver-clad peak, adjacent to Namtso, Tibet's second-largest lake. Besides the main peak, there are three others: Nyainqentanglha II (7,117 m), III (7,111 m), and IV (7,046 m).

Nyainqentanglha Mountains

Nyainqentanglha Mountains

Nyainqentanglha Mountains

Nyainqentanglha Mountains

Nyainqentanglha Mountains

After more than 3 hours winding through the mountains, we reached the Nagenla Pass.

Nagenla Pass is in Damxung County, at 5,190 metres. It's the must-cross point over the Nyainqentanglha Mountains to Namtso, and a sacred place for Tibetans. There is a stone marker with the altitude carved, and the mani piles are covered in prayer flags. Looking north, you can see the deep blue Namtso in the distance. Standing at this pass above 5,000 metres, in a so-called life-forbidden zone, gazing over the vast landscape, an overwhelming sense of grandeur, desolation, and boundlessness rises in your heart.

The wind at the flag-draped pass was strong, with patches of snow on the ground, prayer flags fluttering.

After about 20 minutes, we continued to Namtso, arriving at the visitor centre at noon.

Namtso is in central Tibet, the second-largest lake in Tibet and the third-largest saltwater lake in China. At 4,718 metres above sea level, it is roughly rectangular, 70 km long and 30 km wide, covering over 1,920 square kilometres – the highest large lake in the world. The water is clear, a sky-blue colour. "Namtso" means "Heavenly Lake" in Tibetan; in Mongolian it's "Tengger Sea". It is one of the "Three Sacred Lakes" of Tibet, the supreme sacred lake of the ancient Bon religion, and a renowned Buddhist holy site.

From the visitor centre, we took a park shuttle for nearly an hour to the Tashi Peninsula.

Tashi Peninsula, also called Auspicious Love Island, lies at the southeast end of Namtso, extending north into the lake. About 10 square kilometres of limestone, it's the largest peninsula on the lake. In the middle is a hill several dozen metres high; the northern tip is a jumble of stone pillars and bizarre rock formations, with natural stone bridges. Long eroded by the lake, the island has many quiet caves filled with stalactites, forming a unique karst landscape. The singular, fascinating terrain is truly a wonder.

At the foot of the hill by the lake are many mani piles made of stones. It was March, and the lake surface was still ice-bound. Looking up, the deep, clear blue sky merged seamlessly with the frozen lake; distant majestic snow peaks appeared and disappeared like celestial palaces.

A circumambulation path circles the peninsula, but due to time, we could only walk down to the lakeside. After playing a while, the shuttle took us back along the road, allowing us to see the peninsula's landforms from the vehicle.

Our Namtso trip over, we returned to Lhasa past 8 pm.

Our Tibet journey ended. Today we left Lhasa, flying back to Chengdu.

On the way from Lhasa to Chengdu

On the way from Lhasa to Chengdu

On the way from Lhasa to Chengdu

After travelling the day, we arrived in the evening at a hotel near Tianfu Square. Every time we come to Chengdu, we must have chuanchuan hotpot, and this was no exception. After a short rest, we went to a nearby Malu Bianbian Chuanchuan Xiang restaurant for the hotpot.

Chengdu chuanchuan hotpot

The big landlord bureaucrat Liu Wencai's home is in Anren Ancient Town, so our first stop in Chengdu this time was Anren. In the morning, we took a bus from Chadianzi Bus Station to Anren station, then a local tricycle for about ten minutes to the ancient town.

Anren Ancient Town was first built in the Tang Dynasty. Its name means "taking benevolence makes one content". The existing old-style street buildings were mostly constructed in the late Qing and early Republican periods, especially during the heyday of the Liu family in the Republican era. The architecture combines Chinese and Western styles, creating dignified, elegant, and spacious compounds, giving Anren its distinctive architectural character, known as "masterpieces of western Sichuan architectural culture".

The first place to visit is the Liu's Manor.

The Liu's Manor consists of five mansions built successively by the powerful Sichuan landlord Liu Wencai and his brothers (Liu Wenyuan, Liu Wenzhao, Liu Wencheng, Liu Wencai, Liu Wenhui) and one ancestral home of the Liu family, forming two building clusters facing each other north-south. It covers over 70,000 square metres with a built area of 21,000 square metres and 545 rooms – the largest modern landlord manor complex in China. Construction began in the late Qing, and through several large-scale expansions, reached its current scale by the end of the Republican era. The most representative Liu Wencai mansion is a high-walled, deep-courtyard compound, a typical blend of Chinese and Western styles. With gables, heavy doors, deep lanes, and winding passages like a maze, it fully reflects the luxury and extravagance of a wealthy western Sichuan family in modern times.

After visiting, we had lunch in the ancient town and strolled around.

Spotting a sign for Liu Wenhui's Former Residence, we followed the direction to a courtyard with a sign "Liu Wenhui Mansion Yanqing Garden". Inside we found this was just one courtyard of his residence, not where he actually lived. His real former residence was in another courtyard next door, which required a separate ticket. We didn't go in, just took a photo at the gate.