A Bumpy Journey on the Yunnan–Tibet Route: Tibet Chapter

9. Kunming–Lhasa–Nyingchi

The plane took off at 11am. After collecting my luggage and stepping out of the airport, it was already nearly 3pm. I asked the airport shuttle staff where to get off for the bus to Nyingchi; they said at the train station, the two stations are right next to each other.

Suddenly a shout: "Train station!" I hurried off but saw no sign of a station building, just an open glass door not far away with the word "Dico's" stuck on it. Later, when I checked at home, I realised the drop-off spot was behind the building opposite the railway station.

Right where I got off, there were touts offering rides to Nyingchi for 180 yuan, hotel drop-off in the city included. Normally it takes less than four hours from Lhasa to Nyingchi, but because of waiting for other passengers, I only reached the hotel at 9pm.

10. Nyingchi: Grand Canyon

My Nyingchi mission: the Grand Canyon, Basum Tso, and Gala Village (for peach blossoms).

Arrived at the bus station after 8am. Originally I wanted to go to Basum Tso first, but the ticket seller said the bus hadn't arrived yet and they didn't know when it would come, so I switched to the Grand Canyon.

There were many people heading to the Grand Canyon, so an extra coach was added and it departed on time at 9am.

Once out of the city, the road followed the Yarlung Tsangpo River. Peach blossoms along both banks and the roadside were in full bloom: pink blossoms, lush green barley, canola-yellow rape flowers, and white clouds drifting across the deep blue sky — a feast for the eyes.

The bus to the Grand Canyon is actually the bus to Pai Town. There were return coaches to Nyingchi at 2:30pm and 3pm that day, and everyone's phone numbers were taken for the return trip.

The Grand Canyon had four scenic spots, though I've forgotten the exact names. By a little after 6pm we were back in Nyingchi.

The Nyingchi bus station has a bus to Medog that runs every other day — in March it goes in on even-numbered dates and out on odd ones.

11. Nyingchi: Basum Tso

Again, arrived at the bus station after 8am. The Basum Tso bus was there, so I bought a ticket and waited on board. It didn't leave until 10am. That day only four of us were going. After passing Bahe Town we continued on; it felt like another 10-odd kilometres past the town before reaching the Basum Tso scenic area.

On the way from Lhasa to Nyingchi, when we passed Bahe Town, the driver had said we'd be back here tomorrow and suggested staying overnight in Bahe Town, visiting Basum Tso the next day before heading on to Nyingchi. Back then I asked how to get from Bahe Town to Nyingchi; he said by rural bus for 30 yuan. Having now done the trip, I think his advice wasn't great — there's no direct shuttle from Bahe Town to the Basum Tso scenic area. You'd have to haggle with unlicensed private cars (locals call them 'private vehicles'), and if you're not careful, it could cost more than going from Nyingchi.

What impressed me most about Basum Tso was the huge restaurant with an unbeatable lake view. Whether you buy anything or not, you can sit there. Facing that stunning lake view, sipping tea and nibbling snacks, all the effort of the journey felt worth it.

12. Nyingchi–Lhasa

The plan for today was first to see peach blossoms at Gala Village, then head to Lhasa.

It was raining, the sky dark and overcast. At breakfast I asked the hostel owner where to find a private car to Lhasa. He said there's no need to look — just stand by the roadside and someone will come to you, 150 yuan per person.

Sure enough, as soon as I stood by the road opposite the bus station, someone approached: "Going to Lhasa? 150 yuan per person, hotel drop-off." I saved the number, then looked for a taxi to talk about the price to Gala Village. I had heard it should be 50 yuan one way, but everyone I asked wanted 70 or 80. While I was negotiating, I suddenly noticed the rain looked odd. Looking closer, it wasn't rain — it was snow, thick flakes. So what was the point of going to the peach blossom village? Even if I went, it wouldn't matter.

The weather forecast that day said moderate snow in Nyingchi.

I enjoyed the snow for a while, then contacted the private-car driver for Lhasa. Oddly enough, as soon as we left Nyingchi, the snow disappeared.

Like shared rides all over China, we waited around, left and right, and detoured here and there to pick people up. We reached Lhasa at 2pm. The driver stopped on some street (I later learned it was Jiangsu Road), saying they were cracking down hard on unlicensed cars that day, four had already been busted, so I'd have to get out here.

Clearly an excuse. I wondered: is this the difference between 150 and 180 yuan?

Diagonally opposite there was a bus stop (Municipal Company Stop). I walked over and checked — no routes to my hotel — so I hailed a taxi for the 10-yuan starting fare.

After checking in, I rested right away.

Slept until after 6pm, then went out to find food. After eating I felt no signs of altitude sickness, so I walked to the Potala Palace to see the night view.

That night I stayed at Junheng Theme Hotel (Jokhang Temple branch), a standard room for 186 yuan, with a lift.

In the morning, I was at the Potala Palace. Worried about altitude sickness and lacking the stamina, I didn't go up, just strolled around the square. In the afternoon I went to Jokhang Temple, but couldn't enter without a reservation. I asked the touts at the gate; they said they couldn't help either, so I just followed the crowd around the circuit.

Personally, I think whether you climb the Potala or get inside the Jokhang isn't the point. What matters is that I could stand before the Potala Palace — no matter how tough the journey, it was all worthwhile.

14. Lhasa–Guangzhou

Today, I board train Z266 back to Guangzhou at 12:40pm.

It snowed in the morning. A local told me that Lhasa hadn't seen such heavy snow in a long time.

Dragging my luggage through the heavy snow, I caught bus No. 24 at Haicheng Primary School stop, transferred to No. 1 at Labai stop, and went to the railway station.

I boarded the train smoothly, and with that, this journey came to a perfect end.