2015 Lijiang Self-Guided Tour
Return to authentic travel, experience the most genuine side of Lijiang,
The meaning of travel lies in the process of experience and your own true results.
Don’t obsess over whether Lijiang is still pure or not. Once you’re here, take your time to get to know it.
Time = indulge and waste it, life = soak up the sunshine, mood = Lijiang’s sky, scenery = beautiful memories, leaving = waiting for the next reunion. Immerse yourself in Lijiang’s slow pace, enjoy every moment here. You’re either in Lijiang or on your way to Lijiang.
I often see outdated travel guides online, which make some visitors feel ripped off when they arrive in Yunnan or Lijiang. Outdated travel info can really screw you over! To reduce blind spots and misunderstandings for first-time visitors, and to help you explore Lijiang in the most budget-friendly, stylish, and savvy way, this guide offers an in-depth look at Lijiang and its surrounding sights, routes, food, entertainment, bars, and more. It aims to be the most professional, detailed, and practical Yunnan Lijiang travel guide, restoring the most authentic Lijiang for you. Our slogan: Wonderful Lijiang, simplify your travel.
Note: This is a text-only condensed version, which might be a bit dry to read, but it’s absolutely practical and easy to print. For a more detailed illustrated version of the Lijiang self-guided tour guide, simply search for “大美滇行”.
This guide will analyze Lijiang travel in depth from the following aspects:
1. Choice of travel style
2. Transportation guide
3. Itinerary planning
4. Choosing a guesthouse
5. Lijiang bars
6. Food recommendations
7. Shopping guide
8. Romance secrets
9. Frequently asked questions
I. Choice of travel style
Make sure you decide before your trip. Usually, travelers to Lijiang fall into three categories: pure self-guided, semi-self-guided, and complete group tours. We recommend the semi-self-guided style, which offers flexibility and security with a pure play, no-shopping travel experience. Let’s go through the three styles in detail.
1. Complete group tour: This means booking with a local travel agency from your departure point. Most such itineraries are conventional routes operated by traditional agencies, like a 6-day Lijiang-Dali-Shangri-La trip or a 3-day Lijiang-Dali trip. These itineraries are typically tight and leave time for shopping stops, which is why they are relatively cheap. For example, a recent Kunming-pickup route: Kunming-Lijiang-Shangri-La-Meili Snow Mountain 5-night 6-day tour, including accommodation and intercity transport, costs only 1,350 yuan per person. These tours are usually run by traditional Yunnan agencies. Despite the shopping stops and limited time at attractions, with a packed schedule, some elderly people and price-sensitive travelers still prefer this type of tour.
2. Semi-self-guided tour: This means you book online before departure or join semi-outdoor itineraries organized by local outdoor clubs after arriving in Lijiang. These routes are more personalized and free compared to traditional group tours, but unlike pure outdoor trekking routes, they involve only a small amount of walking while mostly using vehicles and staying in hotels or guesthouses. The key point is that they generally have no shopping stops and make profits mainly from the itinerary itself. These tours are relatively freer and more personalized, making them more suitable for young people! Well-known outdoor clubs in Lijiang include Lijiang Dianxing Outdoor Club (top recommendation), Lijiang Meizhili Outdoor Club, Lijiang Dianma Outdoor Club, Lijiang Jinsha Outdoor Club, etc. When joining such clubs, make sure to choose a legitimate one with a travel agency license for protection in case of any issues! The price for such clubs is relatively higher, but the travel quality is also more guaranteed! For example, a 2-day Shangri-La Pudacuo National Park tour generally costs 800–1,000 yuan.
3. Pure self-guided tour: This means you go on your own, or join private outdoor groups organized by local backpacker enthusiasts in Lijiang. Some of these are spontaneous, just-for-fun groups where you share the guide’s expenses; others are individually organized with lower costs, so prices are cheaper, e.g., a 2-day Shangri-La trip for only 400–600 yuan per person. These types of tours are more casual and free because they are individually run, but they offer virtually no safety or security guarantees, except maybe your own private accident insurance. In the industry, these are called “black groups,” and we do not recommend joining them. When traveling, safety comes first.
II. Transportation guide for Lijiang travel
[Air]: Cities with direct flights to Lijiang include: Kunming, Banna, Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Chengdu, Shenzhen, Xi’an, Chongqing, Nanjing, Guiyang, Xiamen, Hangzhou, etc. Some travelers from cities with direct flights still choose to fly to Kunming first, then take a plane, train, or bus to Lijiang. This is because there are more flights to Kunming, and sometimes transferring via Kunming is cheaper than flying direct to Lijiang. We recommend booking flights early for bigger discounts.
[Train]: The Kunming–Lijiang train uses new air-conditioned trains with hard seat, hard sleeper, and soft sleeper. Prices: hard sleeper upper 142 yuan, middle 147 yuan, lower 152 yuan; soft sleeper upper 217 yuan, lower 226 yuan; hard seat 90 yuan. Lijiang is a tourist city, and the railway adjusts the number of services based on peak and off-peak seasons. Check the official railway website for the latest schedule.
[Bus]: During peak season, if you can’t get a train ticket, you can take a bus from Kunming West Bus Station to Lijiang. The bus ride is really long and exhausting, so be mentally prepared for 7–8 hours of bumping. If you take a cheap sleeper bus (around 150 yuan), the smell might be quite unpleasant, so bring a face mask. There are many sleeper buses, basically many departures throughout the day, with the last one around 10 p.m. Another option is the higher-class express coach, priced roughly 160–220 yuan. If you want to have fun along the way, you can first tour Dali and then come to Lijiang from there. There are also plenty of buses from Dali to Lijiang, with the last one around 7 p.m. and a fare of 40–60 yuan.
[From Lijiang Airport to the Old Town]: 30 km, about 30–40 minutes by car. Three ways:
a. Guesthouse pick-up: Book your room in advance; some guesthouses provide airport pick-up service. Remember, there’s no free lunch – it’s better to cover the cost yourself.
b. Taxi: Generally 80–120 yuan. The Old Town does not allow cars inside; they can only stop at the entrance. Then call the guesthouse to send someone to guide you; otherwise, the maze-like Old Town is very hard to navigate. Entrances include the North Gate (Old Town Administration Office), Old Town Police Station, Big Waterwheel, South Gate, Fuguo Hotel junction, Lijun Grand Hotel, Wenchang Palace, etc.
c. Airport bus: Take it right outside the airport, 20 yuan per person, get off at Blue Sky Hotel in New Town. To reach the Old Town, take a taxi for 10–20 yuan, about a 10-minute ride. It’s advisable to walk a little further from the drop-off before hailing a taxi. Use discretion and be safe. Buses run for every flight from the airport to town; the last bus from town to the airport is at 9 p.m.
[From Lijiang Railway Station to the Old Town]: 15 km, about 20–30 minutes by car. Three ways:
1. Public bus: Routes 18, 11, 4, etc. Route 11 goes to Shuhe main gate, but buses are infrequent.
2. Minivan: If you’re willing to take a 10-yuan soliciting minivan, that’s also an option. Stay alert and be safe.
3. Guesthouse pick-up: Book in advance and ask the guesthouse to pick you up; it’s best to pay the cost yourself. There’s no such thing as a free lunch.
III. Itinerary planning for Lijiang travel
Blessed with a unique location and the renown of Lijiang Old Town, Lijiang serves as the gateway and hub of northwest Yunnan tourism. Let’s first get a rough idea of the classic sights in and around Lijiang: Dayan Old Town, Shuhe Ancient Town, Baisha Ancient Town, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Lashihai, Guanyin Gorge, Laojun Mountain, Lugu Lake (Grass Sea, Daluoshui, Xiaoluoshui, Lige, etc.), Tiger Leaping Gorge, Shangri-La (Dukezong Ancient Town, Guishan Park, Songzanlin Monastery, Pudacuo National Park, Shika Snow Mountain, etc.), Meili Snow Mountain, Mingyong Glacier, Yubeng (Holy Waterfall, Ice Lake), Dali (Dali Ancient Town, Butterfly Spring, Chongsheng Temple Three Pagodas, Xizhou, Shuanglang, etc.), Daocheng Yading, etc. (We won’t go into detail on each attraction here; you can Baidu them if you want more info.)
Travelers with plenty of time can do all these places in one go; those with less time can pick their must-see spots based on their schedule. Visitors often say, “You can’t finish Lijiang in one trip.” That’s true, because you’re not just visiting Lijiang alone. Moreover, just the leisurely vibe of Lijiang Old Town is enough to make many people linger. Of course, some come for the so-called “romance,” hehe. You can also join the Lijiang Dianxing Outdoor Club’s happy backpacker QQ group (220693321) for discussions.
Recommended best itineraries (multiple options, free to choose, welcome to add more):
3-day itinerary recommendation (1 day Lijiang Old Town + 1 day Jade Dragon Snow Mountain + 1 day Lashihai)
5-day itinerary recommendation A (1 day Lijiang Old Town + 2 days Shangri-La + 2 days Lugu Lake)
5-day itinerary recommendation B (1 day Lijiang Old Town + 2 days Shangri-La + 2 days Dali)
5-day itinerary recommendation C (1 day Lijiang Old Town + 2 days Shangri-La + 1 day Jade Dragon Snow Mountain + 1 day Lashihai)
5-day itinerary recommendation D (1 day Lijiang Old Town + 2 days Lugu Lake + 1 day Jade Dragon Snow Mountain + 1 day Lashihai)
7-day itinerary recommendation A (1 day Lijiang Old Town + [Shangri-La + Meili Snow Mountain] 4 days + 2 days Lugu Lake)
7-day itinerary recommendation B (1 day Lijiang Old Town + [Shangri-La + Meili Snow Mountain] 4 days + 1 day Jade Dragon Snow Mountain + 1 day Lashihai)
7-day itinerary recommendation C (1 day Lijiang Old Town + [Shangri-La + Meili Snow Mountain] 4 days + 2 days Dali)
7-day itinerary recommendation D (1 day Lijiang Old Town + 2 days Shangri-La + 2 days Lugu Lake + 2 days Dali)
7-day itinerary recommendation E (1 day Lijiang Old Town + 2 days Shangri-La + 2 days Lugu Lake + 1 day Jade Dragon Snow Mountain + 1 day Lashihai)
9-day itinerary recommendation A (1 day Lijiang Old Town + [Shangri-La + Meili Snow Mountain + Yubeng] 6 days + 2 days Lugu Lake)
9-day itinerary recommendation B (1 day Lijiang Old Town + [Shangri-La + Meili Snow Mountain + Yubeng] 6 days + 2 days Dali)
9-day itinerary recommendation C (1 day Lijiang Old Town + [Shangri-La + Meili Snow Mountain] 4 days + 2 days Lugu Lake + 2 days Dali)
9-day itinerary recommendation D (1 day Lijiang Old Town + [Shangri-La + Meili Snow Mountain] 4 days + 2 days Lugu Lake + 1 day Jade Dragon Snow Mountain + 1 day Lashihai)
The above itineraries start from Lijiang to Dali, Lugu Lake, Shangri-La, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Lashihai, Meili Snow Mountain, Yubeng, etc. The biggest difference from traditional agency routes like Kunming-Dali-Lijiang-Shangri-La-Banna is that you spend the least time on the road, more freedom, more classic, and more savvy. We strongly remind you: arrange your itinerary first, then book your accommodation; otherwise, your whole trip will be very passive.
Choosing travel routes (important)
Lijiang Dianxing Outdoor Club recommends quality group tours that are pure play with no shopping, so we simply cross out the conventional shopping group tours organized by traditional agencies! So how do you choose a true quality pure-play group? What traps await us now?
1. Judge by price, which is the most direct way.
The following cost estimates are based on regular season market prices; they can more than double during Golden Weeks. Take the most classic northwest Yunnan Lijiang-Shangri-La 2-day tour and Lijiang-Lugu Lake 2-day tour as examples:
Charter car cost: ordinary commercial vehicle about 1,000–1,200 yuan/day
Accommodation: 60–100 yuan/person/night (market price for Shangri-La business hotels and Lugu Lake guesthouses)
Attraction tickets: Tiger Leaping Gorge 65 yuan, Pudacuo 260 yuan (including shuttle bus inside the park), Songzanlin Monastery 115 yuan, Lugu Lake 100 yuan
Insurance: 10–20 yuan/person
Guide fee: normal guide subsidy should be around 100–300 yuan/day (given the guide’s workload, this is a fair payment)
If the price is lower than the above cost estimate, it’s 100% a low-price shopping group, even if they claim to be a quality tour.
2. Judge by what’s included.
Again take a Shangri-La pure-play 2-day tour as an example: a real pure-play group at least includes the plateau oxygen supply and cold-weather clothing for Shangri-La, plus the Tibetan folk performance there, like “Dream of Shangri-La”, “Night of Shambhala”, etc. Fake pure-play groups won’t include these. In short, the more self-paid items, the less pure the play. The minimum standard for pure play is no shopping stops.
3. The major traps in Lijiang’s tour market right now – please read carefully!
① Due to fierce competition, the many independent traveler reception desks scattered in Lijiang Old Town and Shuhe Ancient Town lure unsuspecting tourists with extremely low-priced fake pure-play tours that are actually shopping tours or even forced shopping tours. Their common feature: extremely low prices; during consultation, they guarantee absolutely no shopping and no stops, but once you join the tour, the guide tells a different story. What? You want to complain? Forget it! Verbal promises are without evidence – where can you complain? The receipt or tour contract won’t say “pure play, no stops”! Most importantly – the price! A 300-something-yuan Shangri-La 2-day tour doesn’t even cover half the cost; how could you expect pure play?
② The army of aunties and middle-aged women soliciting at airports, train stations, bus stations, and every street corner in Lijiang Old Town! Don’t underestimate them – they drag in quite a lot of tourists every day. Their catchphrase: “Need a car? Lashihai Tea Horse Road, Shuhe, only 5 yuan!” But once you get to the Lashihai horse farm, it’s a different story: horseback riding costs 280–580 yuan per person depending on the route. What, you don’t want to ride? Then they’ll just leave you stranded in the middle of nowhere! Tons of people have fallen for this! Just Baidu: “Must never go to Lashihai” and you’ll understand! That’s how Lashihai’s reputation was ruined. But should you really avoid Lashihai? Of course not! There is a real Lashihai Tea Horse Road one-day tour!
③ Sample travel plan cases: providing reference for planning your Lijiang trip so you can create a feasible itinerary based on your situation. The following examples are representative; use them for comparison and to roughly sketch your own plan.
Case 1: During summer vacation, Xiao Li and seven colleagues from Shenzhen wanted to visit Lijiang for about 7 days. First time in Lijiang, they wanted to cover as many places as possible without wasting time in shopping stops – pure play only. With limited time, they chose semi-self-guided: they booked flights and guesthouse online and entrusted us with arranging their Lijiang itinerary.
Based on their situation, we arranged: Day 1, pick up at train station, check in, rest, stroll around the Old Town. Day 2, Lashihai Tea Horse Road one-day tour – a high-value route; a full day and quite tiring; in the evening we took them to the best black goat hotpot in Lijiang. Day 3–4, Lugu Lake pure-play 2-day tour, returning to Lijiang on Day 4 evening; without wasting time, we took them to a fun bar that night. Day 5–6, directly joined Shangri-La pure-play 2-day tour, back in Lijiang on Day 6. Day 7, another pure-play day to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Day 8, rest in the morning, concentrated shopping in the afternoon; I took them to the Old Town to buy some discounted Lijiang specialties. At 9:58 p.m., they caught the train from Lijiang to Kunming, ending a happy Lijiang trip.
Summary: This arrangement suits those with tight schedules who still want to cover many attractions; of course, you need good physical fitness and energy. It was indeed tiring, but Xiao Li said it was worth it.
Case 2: Ms. Hu, her 11-year-old daughter, and her 65-year-old mother traveled to Lijiang during the daughter’s summer break. They had ample time – 10 days. Since they had an elderly person and a child, Ms. Hu wanted a relaxed trip, visiting just a few representative spots.
Based on their situation, we arranged: Day 1, airport pick-up, check in late; we had the driver directly take them to the guesthouse and gave some tips for traveling in Lijiang. Day 2, leisurely stroll around the Old Town, enjoy local food, and acclimate to the altitude. Considering Ms. Hu’s mother’s age, we skipped horseback riding at Lashihai. Day 3–4, Lugu Lake pure-play 2-day tour, back on Day 4. Day 5, they went to the nearby Shuhe Ancient Town for a wander and booked a guesthouse there in advance. Day 6, directly from Shuhe they joined a Jade Dragon Snow Mountain pure-play one-day tour and watched Zhang Yimou’s “Impression Lijiang” live outdoor show. They stayed in Shuhe again because Ms. Hu’s mother found it quieter and less crowded than Lijiang Old Town. Day 7, using the Old Town maintenance fee ticket from Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, they visited Black Dragon Pool Park for free. Day 8–9, Shangri-La pure-play 2-day tour, returning to stay in Lijiang Old Town on Day 9. Day 10, in the morning they visited Mu Residence; in the afternoon called me to take them to buy authentic spirulina, which the elder and child wanted to take. Evening flight, ending a happy Lijiang trip.
Summary: This was a relatively relaxed itinerary, but honestly, any trip will feel tiring; “relaxed” is just relative. However, what Ms. Hu appreciated most wasn’t the attractions – she found them just average. It was the many delicious foods she tried: wild mushroom hotpot, salmon, cured pork ribs, black goat, and potato chicken – she didn’t miss a single one!
Case 3: Xiao Fei had just finished the college entrance exam with excellent results, securing a spot in a top-tier university. His entire class did well, so they planned a graduation trip to wrap up their high school years. There were 13 students with the same idea, and they had about 8 days. During consultation, selecting attractions took a lot of effort, spanning over 10 days total. Initially they favored the Meili Snow Mountain 4-day tour, but after learning that Mingyong Glacier wasn’t very scenic that season, I recommended the Yubeng 6-day route – a deep exploration of Meili Snow Mountain. More meaningfully, it’s a challenging trek, a good test for high school graduates about to enter university. With many participants, it took time to finalize the route, as a few girls were hesitant about such a strenuous route and safety concerns. Eventually Xiao Fei’s dad added me on QQ, and after chatting, felt our team was mature and reliable. With that worry settled, Xiao Fei and his friends persuaded the other girls to join. They all agreed to do the Yubeng 6-day trekking tour. When they arrived in Lijiang, two more classmates joined, making it 15. We assigned the club’s most experienced Yubeng guide, A Lang. Because parents were still concerned, we kept track of their progress in Yubeng and reported to parents immediately. Though it was just a small group trip, our whole team put in considerable effort – after all, they were just out of high school. Xiao Fei was both organizer and liaison, and he gained valuable experience. They had booked an afternoon train to Kunming, then a Kunming–Lijiang train, but the train to Kunming was over 4 hours late, causing them to miss the Kunming–Lijiang train. But they were set to depart for Yubeng the next morning. So they had to buy a last-minute bus ticket from Kunming to Lijiang, arriving around 4 a.m. I picked them up and took them to KFC to rest and have breakfast, then at 7:30 a.m. I fetched them to meet the guide. Despite the hiccup, they started their Yubeng 6-day tour on time as planned.
Summary: The trip had its twists, but it ended successfully, wrapping up their graduation journey. We also gained valuable experience; next time, for another graduation trip, we’ll do even better.
Case 4: A private company from Beijing arranged a trip to Lijiang to reward outstanding employees, also wanting to incorporate some team-building activities. The first group was 50 people with 5 days. Team leader Wang found me online. After initial discussions, he wanted classic attractions for 2–3 days, team building for 1 day, and 1 free day for staff. Since it was a large group, they needed to avoid waste and keep costs economical. They entrusted us with accommodation, itinerary, and team building.
Based on their situation, we arranged: Day 1 afternoon pick-up, check-in at a hotel, sign travel contract. Because there were too many people, few Old Town guesthouses could accommodate them. We booked a 3-star hotel near the Old Town, making it easy to access. Per Wang’s request to have the team building early, as discussed, we chose Lijiang Outdoor Paradise as the venue, with satisfactory facilities. We hired professional trainers, and everything went smoothly. Days 2–3, Shangri-La pure-play 2-day tour – July in Shangri-La is beautiful. With such a large group, we used a 55-seat bus. Some minor issues during the tour were promptly resolved. Returning on Day 3 afternoon, everyone was tired; according to plan, it was free time. Wang and a few good friends asked me to recommend fun bars; I took them out and they had a great time. Day 4 was also free; those who needed help asked me to guide them around the Old Town, finding some nice yet affordable souvenirs – since they were working-class but wanted to bring back gifts. On that day, I basically became a personal shopper. Overall, they were quite satisfied with the trip, with some highlights and some unavoidable hiccups, like the group meals on the Shangri-La tour. Honestly, Shangri-La is expensive, so for the same budget, food in Lijiang is better. We did have some shortcomings in arranging this group trip, but as Wang said, consider it preparation for the next 50-person group.
IV. Choosing a guesthouse in Lijiang
There are over a thousand guesthouses in the Old Town, with prices ranging from a few dozen to several thousand yuan. We recommend booking in advance; Taobao and major group-buying sites can help. If you want to find a place upon arrival, it’s possible, but the Old Town has stone-paved roads – dragging a suitcase or carrying a big backpack looking for accommodation is exhausting. After booking, some guesthouses offer free airport or train pick-ups, but the cost is already included in the room rate; there’s no free lunch. A one-night stay with free airport pick-up means the room rate is inflated; free pick-up for a few nights means there’s room for profit.
Most guesthouses have wooden doors and windows, so soundproofing might not be perfect but is generally fine. They are mostly family-style guesthouses with warm and hospitable hosts; guests from all over bond like a family, feeling at home – something hotels can’t match.
Lijiang guesthouses are basically renovated Naxi dwellings, mostly wooden structures with courtyards. Personally, I think Naxi architecture and culture are the core themes of Lijiang guesthouses; Mediterranean, European, Maldivian, Japanese, or Korean styles feel out of place, even though Lijiang is a very inclusive city.
Peak tourist seasons in Lijiang are summer/winter holidays and Golden Weeks. Don’t complain about price hikes – it’s the same for all guesthouses in the Old Town, and indeed in all tourist cities nationwide. During peak season, definitely book in advance, but don’t be too tempted by cheap deals; those guesthouses may be remote, poorly equipped, or unhygienic.
About guesthouse location:
Square Street area: core location, convenient access, but close to the bar street, crowded, expensive, noisy. Suits people who love bustle.
Lion Hill: great views, a good spot to overlook the whole Old Town; some rooms you can watch sunrise from the window. But climbing up and down is tiring, and access is inconvenient.
Wuyi Street: many quiet bars and characteristic small shops, with a trendy, slightly bohemian vibe. Adjacent to Square Street, convenient yet relatively quiet.
Qiyi Street and Mu Residence area: the fringe of the core, quiet. I personally think this area is also suitable.
South Gate area: convenient access, but mostly newly built houses, lacking the Old Town’s atmospheric charm.
Value for money mainly refers to price and added services. Among the thousand guesthouses, mainstream prices range from 80 to over a thousand yuan. Added services are a key measure of value. Many guesthouses tout their “free services” – a Lijiang guesthouse specialty. Actually, so-called free services like pick-up, breakfast, tea, fruit, even massage or foot baths are all built into the room rate. If you stay for ten days or half a month and get no free pick-up or breakfast, don’t feel bad – it just means the room rate is fairly priced. Also consider soundproofing, cleanliness, quietness, and location. The Old Town’s stone roads are wheel-killers; if you must drag a suitcase, pick a guesthouse on the edge of the Old Town and New Town for easier access and luggage handling…
Finally, here are 8 essential tips for choosing a Lijiang guesthouse. Lijiang Dianxing Outdoor Club wishes you once again to find a satisfying guesthouse.
1. Distinguishing real from fake in online photos
Before coming, I browsed a Lijiang travel website; the guesthouse photos were stunning, but on arrival, the reality was very different. This happened at several places, hugely disappointing.
a. Don’t trust close-up or partial room photos. Many guesthouses without a proper courtyard only photograph some flowers and plants, making it look nice when in fact the courtyard is tiny and they can only shoot partial views.
b. Many guesthouse rooms in Lijiang are small, so they often just photograph a pillow or a painting. Best to ask for full panoramic photos.
c. The most popular guesthouses on travel websites are advertised for money, and user reviews are basically fake – be discerning.
d. Check for genuine traveler blogs or diaries about the guesthouses. Search the guesthouse name on Baidu; you’ll find blogs and diaries written by real travelers, where the good and bad won’t be faked.
2. Guesthouses that use “atmosphere” as their main selling point
Some lack any tangible advantages, so they end up just saying their guesthouse is a lot of fun. In reality, their room conditions and location are poor.
a. Actually, Lijiang guesthouses are mostly run by outsiders who love Lijiang; each guesthouse is fun to stay at (the key is that you mingle with the staff and the boss; don’t treat yourself too much as a stranger).
b. Because good guesthouses all have a courtyard, guests naturally end up arranging shared car tours together. So shared car tours aren’t a unique advantage of any single guesthouse – it’s the same for all.
3. When a guesthouse takes you shopping
Many guesthouses take you shopping and get a commission.
a. Many guesthouses don’t make money from accommodation but from taking you shopping. That’s why they set room rates very low, then take you to buy silverware or jade. Don’t follow along; just make your own choices. Of course, listen to their advice and information.
b. Some guesthouses focus on reputation and never take guests shopping. Just chat with the staff to get a rough idea of the market.
4. Soundproofing of rooms
Lijiang guesthouses are mostly wooden structures, especially old houses, where walls between rooms are wooden planks. You can easily hear the neighbors’ intimate moments.
a. When booking, ask what the walls between rooms are made of. Insist on brick walls or those with soundproofing treatment (in my experience, guesthouses under 100 yuan mostly use wooden partitions).
5. Guesthouse location
There are hundreds of guesthouses in Lijiang Old Town; what makes a good location?
a. The Old Town has no vehicle access. If a car can reach the doorstep, the guesthouse is probably on the edge, which is convenient – you don’t need to carry heavy luggage deep into the Old Town.
b. Avoid guesthouses within a 2-minute walk to Square Street. They’re too close to the bar street; unless you plan to stay up all night, the noise from the bars until 2 a.m. will keep you awake.
c. Avoid guesthouses that are too out-of-the-way; there might be no streetlights at night, and it can feel scary walking back.
d. The Old Town roads are complex; it’s best to stay near some landmark attraction, so if you get lost, just find that landmark and you’ll find your guesthouse.
6. Guesthouse price
Prices in Lijiang Old Town guesthouses range from 40 to 2,000 yuan, each catering to specific clientele.
a. If the price range between different rooms in the same guesthouse is too wide, don’t stay there – the values of guests in different price brackets can be vastly different and can easily cause friction.
b. If you have a certain budget, don’t expect a 40-yuan room to meet your needs. If a room can sell for 100 yuan, the owner won’t sell it for 40 – that kind of good deal doesn’t happen.
c. I recommend rooms around 180 yuan. Accommodation doesn’t need to be fancy, but if it’s too poor it affects sleep; if you get sick, your whole trip is ruined.
7. Lijiang Old Town guesthouse or Shuhe guesthouse
Lijiang Old Town and Shuhe are two separate ancient towns; both have many guesthouses – make sure you know the difference.
a. Advantages of Lijiang Old Town guesthouses: larger scale, convenient transport (if you plan to visit many attractions, stay in Lijiang Old Town), lively at night with lots of activities. Relatively cleaner than Shuhe (where there’s more cow dung, hence more flies and mosquitoes).
b. Shuhe has a more rustic feel and fewer tourists.
8. The guesthouse courtyard
Before coming to Lijiang, I imagined every guesthouse with a beautiful courtyard. In reality, many have very small or even no courtyard at all – so pay attention.
When booking, ask the owner for photos of the courtyard. If there’s no courtyard, don’t stay there; it feels cramped.
V. Lijiang bars
Many people say Lijiang is the “capital of romance”, but everyone’s feeling about a city is different; it depends on how you look at yourself, others, and the city. If you don’t want romance in Lijiang, then no one will force you; if you want romance, you can find it anywhere, not just in Lijiang.
Many people come to Lijiang and feel relaxed, shedding the constraints and barriers of their own cities; everyone’s mindset strangely aligns, perhaps that’s why Lijiang is labeled the romance capital.
Lijiang’s bars are famous. Some say they’re the worst bars in the world, others say the best. People party every night, living in a daze, finding a completely different yet possibly true version of themselves.
Many can’t bear to leave Lijiang – besides the scenery and local culture, the bars are one reason; you won’t find similar bars anywhere else.
Lijiang bars mainly fall into three “schools”: the bar street on Xinhua Street, the quiet bars on Wuyi Street, and the “café-bars” that blur the line between eatery and bar. The bar street: officially Xinhua Street, the main road connecting the Old Town entrance (Big Waterwheel) and the central Square Street. At night it’s extremely loud, with deafening music and touts in nice ethnic costumes outside every door. These bars are basically discos. If you want to get hyped, go there. Most tourists head to the bar street because of its fame and the “romance” pitch. Prices are high; if a guesthouse takes you, their kickback is also high, and even with a 12% discount, drink prices are comparable to Beijing or Shanghai.
If you’re a bar lover, a bar culture enthusiast, then go and chill. Bar lovers of the world, unite and carry on!
Long-term residents of Lijiang, however, prefer the bars on Wuyi Street – not too noisy, where you can hear original songs by local singers. Sip some wine, chat with new friends from all over – a feeling you’ll never get in the hustle of the city.
There’s another very distinctive kind: the hearth bar. Small, with few patrons, offbeat music, unique homemade booze, and a rustic setting, usually hidden in remote alleys. A fire burns in the center, everyone gathers around the fire to chat, listen to music, or jam. Prices are lower than the bar street; these are called “quiet bars”.
You can hear original songs by local singers. Sitting there with a drink, chatting with people from all corners – an experience you’ll never have in a bustling city. The singers are mostly long-time Lijiang musicians, often talented and full of character. Such bars offer discounts of 30–50% to guesthouse owners or long-term Lijiang tourism workers; if you pay more than that, you’re overpaying. Of course, without a connection, you won’t get the discount.
If you don’t like bars, go watch some song-and-dance performances. Lijiang has two famous large-scale shows: “Lishui Jinsha” and “Naxi Ancient Music”.
When listening to “Naxi Ancient Music”, first make sure it’s hosted by Xuan Ke himself. Although the founder of this music is over 80, he still frequently leads his fellow musicians on world tours and enjoys very high prestige in international music circles, partly because he’s multilingual and has a witty, humorous hosting style.
Naxi Ancient Music is classical music widely spread among the Naxi people. It miraculously blends Daoist ritual music, Confucian ceremonial music, and even ci and qu tunes from the Tang, Song, and Yuan dynasties into its melodies, yet it forms a unique Naxi folk music charm – pure, ethereal. The Naxi Ancient Music Orchestra combines ancient music, ancient instruments, and elderly master musicians, hailed as a rare “triple treasure”. Classical music fans should definitely go.
Performance venue: Old Town East Street, daily at 8:00 p.m.
“Lishui Jinsha” is a grand song-and-dance spectacle showcasing the customs of Yunnan’s various ethnic minorities, including the Naxi’s Bangbang Festival, the Yi’s Torch Festival, the Mosuo walking marriage, and tragic love suicides for freedom. It’s very powerful. The show is divided into four acts: “Prelude”, “Water”, “Mountain”, and “Love”, hence the English name Mountain.River Show.
Venue: Nationality Cultural Exchange Center Theater, opposite Red Sun Square, a 7–8 minute walk from the Old Town entrance turning right.
Daily performances at 7:30 p.m.; extra shows during peak season.
VI. Lijiang cuisine
Crossing-the-bridge noodles: Not originally a Lijiang specialty, but this place serves authentic ones. Don't eat them in the Old Town; go to Fuhui Road, at the shop called “Bridge Flavor” at the entrance of Lijiang Hotel – authentic Mengzi-style.
Chickpea jelly: In the small alleys, made by Naxi aunties and grandmas – fried or cold, as you like. If you’re lucky enough to find “Shigu jelly”, that’s the best!
Preserved fruits: In an alley past Baisui Bridge, a very small and remote storefront; you can smell the rich sweet fragrance from afar. White fungus, eggplant, even green pepper preserves, sold by a very amiable old Naxi couple – only this one shop!
Lijiang baba: “Perhaps only in Lijiang can you fry a piece of dough into poetry!” Lijiang baba is a unique Naxi snack with a long history. The main ingredients are local high-quality wheat flour, plus ham, lard, sugar, and other seasonings, kneaded into layers, shaped into palm-sized, inch-thick round cakes, then slowly baked to a golden brown in a flat pan. This is Lijiang’s most famous specialty snack; I think you should give it a try.
Sour plum drink: It can be found everywhere in the Old Town, supplied from the main shop in Baisha Ancient Town. If you want the original, head to Baisha. In Lijiang Old Town, October Sour Plum Drink Shop is quite authentic, located on Wenzhi Lane, Wuyi Street.
Cured pork ribs hotpot: In Xiangshan Market. A typical Naxi flavor, the generous pot base and delicious cured ribs are very tempting. Also try the baked baba.
Wild mushroom hotpot: On Huama Street. Add matsutake, chicken fir, porcini, green head mushrooms, etc. into a black chicken broth, simmer for 20 minutes before you can eat. Make sure to drink the soup! (Torture: staring at a pot of deliciousness you can’t eat yet while the aroma wafts over…) Prices are not cheap.
Black goat with skin, hotpot: Take a taxi to Jinkai Square; there’s a whole street of them, and every sign says “Number One” – just pick the busiest one! A Lijiang specialty; the black goats are said to be free-range on mountains, processed especially so there’s no gamey smell, and the skin-on meat is chewy and nourishing, loved by locals. “Dragon meat in heaven, donkey meat on earth” – most black goat shops also sell donkey meat; a half kilo of donkey meat is a great choice. Fair prices, very lively at mealtimes.
Ludian free-range chicken hotpot: In the tobacco residential compound. I dare say even many Lijiang regulars don’t know this place. It’s inside a residential complex, and the road outside is very quiet, so you’d rarely notice it. I was taken there by a friend who knew about it because another friend lived there. Mostly locals eat here, or families living in the complex who don’t feel like cooking. Authentic free-range chicken, delicious broth, tender meat. Really tasty. Not expensive, but hard to find; look for the sign at the compound entrance.
Tai’an potato chicken hotpot: Near the roundabout on Huama Street. Supposedly uses free-range local chicken from the mountainous areas of Qihe in Lijiang. Free-range raising makes the chicken delicious, tender, and falling-off-the-bone. Both the chicken and potatoes are fragrant and soft, especially the broth – incredibly tasty. Fair prices; if you go late, there might be no seats left.
Straw ottoman tilapia fish hotpot: On Qixing Yi Street (near the back wall of Guanghui Hotel). Tilapia, also called fortune fish or African crucian carp. The soup is very flavorful, the fish tender. Popular spot, often visited by locals. Everybody sits on low straw stools to eat, perhaps the origin of the name. The aroma hits you as soon as you enter, especially the Sichuan pepper in the spicy broth – it penetrates your nose and won’t leave. The clear broth is milky white and rich, with a layer of yellow chicken oil – utterly irresistible. Not expensive, simple setting.
Salmon (rainbow trout): Several good ones on Huama Street. Lijiang’s “salmon” is actually rainbow trout. It’s really delicious, not to be missed. Many have eaten rainbow trout, but few have tried it fresh and live, right? Lijiang has China’s largest rainbow trout farm; the glacial meltwater under the snow mountain is perfect in quality and temperature for raising them, and the fry are imported from Norway. Freshly slaughtered rainbow trout is exceptionally tender and tasty – a world apart from frozen products, and it’s cheap. Prepared live, one fish three ways: bones for soup, skin deep-fried, and flesh for sashimi. Dining environment: upscale restaurant.
VII. Shopping guide
As a key town on the ancient Tea Horse Road, Lijiang has been a trading hub since ancient times. Goods from north and south converge here; it’s up to you to find the treasures. Many imagine Lijiang as a tranquil, simple town and think it’s now too commercialized. But historically, it was always a trade center – a big supermarket in modern terms. Personally, I think Lijiang’s worth-buying specialties fall into three categories: high-value items; cheap little souvenirs; and foodie items.
1. High-value: jade, silverware, tea, spirulina, Lijiang maca
① Jade: There’s no doubt Lijiang has good jade. Historically and now, Lijiang is an important trade center in northwest Yunnan. Lijiang people adore jade; the culture is in their marrow, and wearing jadeite is very popular. This love is reflected in place names: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Jade Water Village, Yulong County, Jade River, Jade Lake Village, etc. Countless fine jades flow into Lijiang from all over. But my advice: if you don’t know jade, avoid buying. As the saying goes, gold and silver have a price, jade is priceless. My take: since jade is priceless, they can ask any price. If you really must buy, I recommend a few larger jewelry stores; for valuables, it’s better to shop at bigger stores, not small ones that rely on the owner’s smooth talk. Major jade malls include Dian Mian Jade City in Shuhe, same brand as Kunming’s Colorful Yunnan (the biggest shopping stop in Yunnan); their quality is generally okay, but prices are sky-high. If money is no object and you don’t mind spending tens of thousands, head straight there. Inside Lijiang Old Town, there’s Sifang Jewelry, also a large-scale store, similar to Dian Mian. With Old Town rent and overheads, high prices are inevitable. Another option is Sightseeing Jewelry in New Town; their quality and prices are more reasonable. Ordinary folks can spend a few hundred to a couple thousand and find something they like.
② Silverware: Lijiang people traditionally wear “snowflake silver.” Lijiang is a man’s paradise, woman’s world. Men manage: music, chess, calligraphy, painting, tobacco, alcohol, tea, falconry, dog walking, orchids – creating spiritual civilization. Women: farming, building houses, having babies. NND! I’ve been in Lijiang almost 8 years, haven’t learned music/chess, but tobacco, alcohol, tea – I’ve mastered those. It’s said that women working outdoors easily get rheumatism; wearing snowflake silver prevents it. So now many Lijiang people still wear snowflake silver. Of course, there are way too many silver shops in the Old Town; many small shops irresponsibly sell fake silver, even those claiming “century-old shop”, “silverware family”, “punishable by ten if fake” – they’ll cheat you mercilessly. If you need to buy, try Baisuifang Silver Shop or Lijiang Ethnic Jewelry Factory (one of the few state-owned enterprises in Lijiang, quality is guaranteed). They have fixed prices; as silver prices rise, finished products have gone up too.
③ Tea: Pu’er tea is relatively mild compared to other teas, warms the stomach without upsetting it, and can lower blood lipids. It’s especially good for the elderly as it promotes bowel movement and digestion. Nowadays, good tea leaves are mostly pressed into cake tea. I suggest looking and comparing when buying Pu’er; if you don’t know much about tea, best not to buy very high-priced tea.
④ Spirulina: Lijiang spirulina is world-famous. There are three natural spirulina-producing lakes globally; it’s said that now only Lijiang’s Chenghai Lake still produces it. The Lijiang spirulina market is a mixed bag, with all sorts of brands; shady manufacturers scam us with fakes. From our years in Lijiang, we can tell you the best spirulina brands are Green A (most expensive and overbearing), Chenghai Lake (too many called Chenghai Lake, confusing), and Maido (headquartered same place as Green A, good quality). There are dozens of other brands I won’t list; you’d be confused. My guide is getting as long-winded as Tang Seng. The above three brands are all available on Taobao. If you find the price high, we can still get you genuine spirulina at rock-bottom discounts.
⑤ Lijiang maca: What is maca? Maca is a wonder! Men who eat it make women overwhelmed; women who eat it make men overwhelmed; if both eat it, the bed can’t take it; plant too much, the land can’t take it. But maca is not an aphrodisiac, not Viagra! Lijiang maca was introduced from Peru. The high-altitude cold regions above 3,000 meters in northwest Yunnan centered on Lijiang are the best growing areas, with high altitude, low latitude advantages, and traditional farming culture. The meticulous cultivation far surpasses the original Andean production; Lijiang maca fully meets or even exceeds the original quality. The Lijiang region is the only domestic base providing genuine maca. Of course, maca’s benefits go beyond enhancing sexual function; it mainly boosts health, strengthens the body, relieves stress, maintains energy, and significantly delays menopause.
2. Inexpensive souvenirs:
This category has tons of stuff, from a few yuan to dozens or hundreds. For these small items, I suggest buying in the more out-of-the-way shops in the Old Town, where rent is lower and prices naturally cheaper. If you can find a wholesale-cum-retail shop, even better. It’s easy: just walk up Wuyi Street or Qiyi Street. Shawls, small wood carvings, creative trinkets – go ahead and buy!
3. Foodie items:
I dare say I know Lijiang’s tasty food best. But there’s not much you can take away. So I recommend you eat them here, saving shipping costs. Yak meat, preserved fruits and jams, cured pork ribs – these can be taken home for friends and family to sample. There are plenty of yak meat shops in the Old Town, large and small. For food, my advice is to buy from reputable shops for at least some hygiene and safety assurance. The bigger yak meat chain stores are Dongba Yak Meat and Pangjinmei Yak Meat.
VIII. Romance secrets
Lijiang has mysterious air and soil that boost love hormones. The high altitude makes people sentimental; lightheaded from lower oxygen, you shed much of the city’s sober calculation. Combined with snow mountains, blue sky, white clouds, flowing water, and floral scents, arriving in Lijiang is like stepping into a love paradise. For love, Lijiang is a dreamscape yet tangible and experiential.
The bar street in Lijiang Old Town is an excellent romance spot. A small river, ancient buildings on both sides, red lanterns, a bright moon, travelers from all directions, and bars of every style – it’s the liveliest place in the Old Town at night. The strong antique atmosphere mixed with modern trends stimulates nearly every visitor’s senses. You start to feel dizzy, enchanted; all beautiful things happen from there… The mellow traditional music, the dizzying dim lights, the dark red suggestive cocktails… are mere romantic backdrops. Glances between men and women, bewitching and inexplicable smiles, a movement, a conversation – the air is thick with nothing but ambiguity. This is only the beginning of a wonderful romance…
As for the participants, one must be an extremely skillful sweet-talker, requiring talent covering everything from astronomy, geography, history, religion, international and domestic politics to this year’s economic trends… down to the making of Lijiang Naxi baba, the meaning of Naxi characters, and knowing Lijiang like his/her own home. The other side must be subjectively willing to be charmed, without a shred of doubt about what’s being said, deeply admiring the other’s insights, elevating the making of Naxi baba to the level of Italian pizza…
For men, note these features: gender – male; any age, but judge if you’re suitable based on the other’s age; at minimum wear outdoor gear, branded (counterfeit is okay, can’t tell in the dark); preferably grow a beard; if none due to nature, then mess up your hair in the popular bedhead style. Skip the sunglasses at night; women won’t be interested in a guy with vision issues.
For women, note these features: gender – female; any age, judge if you’re suitable; clothing – revealing or not doesn’t matter much, but you must have a Lijiang “city uniform” – the large ethnic-style shawl. Sit alone (or with 2-3 people) in a relaxed S-curve posture, elegant and graceful. Keep your body still, but your eyes do a 360-degree scanning sweep for more intel.
With all prep done, the next step is how to meet. Human wisdom is great, Chinese wisdom even more outstanding. On this question, countless versions are played out, countless classics unfold, roughly as follows:
Be healthy, with a wheat-colored tan, looking sunny. You must have a unique aura; even if quietly reading or surfing the web, people will notice you.
Be confident. In the mirror, find your most genuine, charming yet unaffected look, like a smiling expression with killer eyes. Don’t let your eyes wander randomly; they should hit straight to the heart.
Be humorous. Stock up on cold and hot jokes; at crucial moments, bring them out to warm the atmosphere and catalyze affection. Remember: quality over quantity.
Bonus: fluent English or a smattering of French makes you even more desirable.
Achieve the above and you’re halfway to success. Especially for women: if you want to be romanced by a foreigner, be Chinese yet international. If you’re not tan enough, that’s okay; being cheerful and confident is enough. As you can see, women appreciated by foreigners fall into two extremes: very beautiful and international, or plain even not pretty, but they share one thing – a bright smile and healthy eyes.
When flying or taking a train, don’t rush to check in or buy tickets. Spot a cute guy or girl, quickly approach, ask them to help or offer to help them. This way you naturally sit together. From there, it depends on your ability to keep a conversation going. And you can advance or retreat freely; if it feels good, continue; if not, change seats in time.
Before departure, you can post your plan on the bulletin board of a backpacker bar, youth hostel, or guesthouse, detailing your itinerary and gender. Publicly state your situation, you need companions for a certain route. Leave your mobile number, but specify that you won’t answer calls, only reply to texts. Arrange to meet and discuss the plan. If it feels right, travel together; you’ll have plenty of opportunities to interact. If not, politely decline with an excuse. Using this method, women should stay extra cautious.
This method is especially suitable for women. Once at your destination, calm your mind. Sit in the afternoon sun, drape a large scarf, hold a book in your hands – no matter if it’s in English or Spanish, right-side up or upside down – just look like you’re reading. Keep your heart open, don’t let your eyes wander, but be aware if a cute guy passes by; also let him notice your interest. Basically, you can sit and wait for a cute guy to approach. But romances found this way often focus on appearances; don’t expect depth. Still, the afternoon sunshine remains bright, and so does your mood.
When you spot a dreamy guy or girl, and they happen to be going your way, you can run up and say: “Excuse me, could you take a photo for me?” Or: “Excuse me, can you help me buy a ticket?” The tackiest: “How do I get to such-and-such? Can you take me there?” On the way, there’ll naturally be chances to get familiar or slip away.
This method is mainly for male compatriots. First, bring a buddy – this boosts courage, and in case of trouble, you’ve got backup. That’s important. Thirdly, unlike abroad, if you sit there alone looking around, you’ll be obviously a perv. That repels women and invites ridicule. But don’t bring too many, or it gets complicated, and someone might steal your thunder.
Enter a bar, first observe the situation. The lighting is dim, but that’s also ambiguous – without it, no stories happen. Scope out where the beauties are, or where they’ll likely appear, then settle down. Sometimes this observation may take several nights; be patient.
Generally, stay away from corner spots – no beauties there, and if there are, they’re like angels who fell face-first. Beauties tend to be more outgoing; the bustling dance floor is their center. So before spotting one, sit toward the center. Keep some distance from competitors, at least a table or two apart. Buy half a dozen beers, quietly wait for beauties to occupy a nearby table. Don’t look around restlessly; act like you and your buddy are hiking to Lhasa tomorrow, exuding as much manliness as possible to boost charisma.
If you’re at the bar counter, when you see a beauty, charge over and sit right next to her without hesitation or embarrassment. The chance is fleeting; if you don’t sit, someone else will within a minute. Don’t mind the silly guy next to her – he might have just sat down too. Despise him, disdain him, act as if he doesn’t exist. If she arrives while you’ve finished half your beers, it’s fate. A few beers will eliminate most of your tension and half your timidity. At that moment, don’t hesitate – go strike up a conversation.
In Lijiang travel, conversation starters can be ten thousand “whys”. “Excuse me, is this your first time in Lijiang?” “Excuse me, where did you buy that beautiful shawl?”… Such lines are old but never out of date. If a group is already having a good time, just lean over and say “Can we join you?” Don’t overthink how to start; in short, be thick-skinned and bold.
After getting acquainted, don’t immediately barrage with questions or brag about how handsome, rich, or cultured you are. Lijiang has nothing to do with those. The best way to connect is still travel talk. The opposite sex’s warmth will comfort every disoriented traveler. Savor honey jam made from local nectar, aromatic rich wine, look out at the cobblestone roads and small bridges over flowing water, share travel anecdotes with a likeable person, feel the sensation of falling in love… what a delightful journey. A master plays at this level.
In a strange place, meeting a stranger, a beautiful encounter is always tinged with romance. Though such romances are wonderful and desirable for travel-loving wanderers, they are actually rare and chance, ultimately depending on fate and your attitude toward an opposite-sex “glimpse of amazement” during travel.
Leave all your troubles in your original city. Forget never-ending work, tangled relationships, soaring house prices, and roller-coaster stocks. Come to Lijiang without a tour group, without tons of money, just bring a simple, ordinary heart. Only then can you discover and encounter more infinite possibilities.
Don’t treat romance as too important. Some believe meeting their true love is the real romance; others feel that falling for the town’s cobblestone roads and green plum wine is also romance.
Give yourself a nice name. If you’re suddenly meeting someone in a dreamy café and loudly introduce yourself as Big Money Wang or Spring Flower Li, that’s a total mood-killer.
Have a party trick. At a Lijiang hearth bar, newcomers introduce themselves and perform. If you can sing a song like “Qinghai-Tibet Plateau” or dance, great; if not, just being bold will earn cheers.
Have a hobby. Don’t foolishly say your hobby is just surfing the web. It should be something related to photography, painting, poetry, or music. Quirky ones like collecting beer cans or raising frogs work too – don’t let people think you’re a boring dud.
Don’t say you’re only staying two days. Lijiang requires slowing down to truly experience; being in such a rush makes locals feel you disrespect everything here, and turns off anyone hoping for something more.
Know the Lijiang code. When locals meet or call, the first line is: “What’s the situation?” It means whether you’re involved in any romance activity; if not, they’ll immediately invite you for drinks and karaoke.
Understand that when meeting someone, it’s normal for them to be late. In Lijiang, people don’t have a sense of time. They judge by the sun’s position with a 90-minute margin; nobody wears a watch or cares about the hour. Here, there’s only today, no yesterday or tomorrow.
Bring enough clothes. Locals say you need three outfits a day in Lijiang, because even in summer, the temperature difference between day and night is big. Better bring thick clothes that are easy to put on. A shawl works too, 15 yuan gets you a decent one.
Prepare a pair of comfortable shoes. Thin high heels and hard cobblestones don’t mix, especially in Shuhe, where you might step on round horse dung or walk into green vegetable fields.
Be ready to get lost at any time for novelty. Don’t worry after getting lost; just like a fish in the stream, go against the currents and you’ll return to the central Square Street.
If you want authentic Lijiang snacks, don’t sleep in. Lijiang baba in Dayan Old Town, chickpea jelly, braised chicken feet, cold rice noodles, the soybean noodles at Shuhe’s Big Stone Bridge – they sell out once they’re gone. Also try the local beer “Wind Flower Snow Moon”, Yunnan small-grain coffee, and the year-round snowmelt-fed rainbow trout.
During the day, sunbathe, zone out, nap. If you’re really bored, consider doodling on message boards, photography, sketching, cycling, falconry, joining hearth gatherings, or hunting for music. At Lijiang music hearths or Shuhe’s Music Thangka, you might find global non-mainstream music.
In conclusion, Lijiang romance is fundamentally a romantic encounter. Although it’s a high-skill activity, its success rate is relatively high, with prairie-fire potential.
When coming to Lijiang, be sure to bring your romance manual, memorize its spiritual rules, and pack your real-world gear.
IX. Frequently asked questions
1. What’s the climate like in Lijiang?
The hottest month averages 18.1–25.7 °C, the coldest month 4–11.7 °C. Spring and autumn blend together, with long spring and no summer, creating distinct dry and wet seasons. Annual rainfall is about 1,000 mm, with over 85% falling in the rainy season from June to September, especially concentrated in July and August. Solar radiation is strong; annual sunshine hours are 2,530, so sun protection is necessary.
The best sun protection isn’t sunscreen but covering up. A brimmed hat, sunglasses, face covering (or scarf/shawl instead) are essential.
2. When is the rainy season? Does it rain all day?
Rain is concentrated in July and August. Daytime temperatures usually don’t exceed 28 °C, night temps are in the low 10s; sometimes you still need an electric blanket. Rainy season in Lijiang doesn’t mean it pours all day; rain probability is higher. Even if it rains, it’s often stop-and-start or clears up after a while, so the rainy season doesn’t affect tourism much.
But Yunnan has a saying: “when it rains, it’s winter” – so bring thick clothes. Remember, even in the dog days, pack a thick jacket.
During the rainy season, roads to Lugu Lake and Meili Snow Mountain might have landslides; other sights are unaffected.
3. Is altitude sickness common in Lijiang?
Lijiang’s altitude is 2,400 meters; there’s not much to worry about for altitude sickness, as long as you avoid strenuous exercise on the day you arrive. If you plan to go to Shangri-La or higher-altitude spots above 3,000 meters, it’s best to acclimate in Lijiang for a few days first.
Tourists flying directly to Shangri-La have a very high chance of altitude sickness; it’s strongly advised against.
4. What clothes should I bring to Lijiang?
Regardless of the season, Lijiang is cold in the morning and evening, hot at midday; chilly when it rains, warm when it’s sunny. Except in winter, when you need a down jacket and thick sweaters, other seasons require a thick jacket and a thin sweater, even in the height of summer.
5. How much is the Old Town maintenance fee? Can it be avoided? Any discounts with IDs?
The Old Town maintenance fee is 80 yuan, payable once. It’s used by the government for daily protection and repairs. If you’re not visiting Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Wangu Tower, or Black Dragon Pool, you don’t need to buy it. Free for those over 70 or under 6.
However, many guesthouses in Dayan require guests to buy the maintenance fee, as they are obliged to collect it on behalf of the government; inspections are strict. In Shuhe, enforcement is loose, and most guesthouses don’t mandate it.
6. Is New Town close to the Old Town?
Very close. The Old Town has no walls; once you leave it, you’re in New Town, just a street away.
7. What’s the best season to visit Shangri-La?
June to August is the best season for Shangri-La. Wild flowers bloom, meadows are green; you can truly feel the meaning of “the place where the sun first shines is the eastern Jiantang; the most wondrous place on earth is Shangri-La by the Naizi River.”
The ideal season for Meili Snow Mountain is the winter-spring period from October to May, with the best time from late December to late February. The weather is clear, the air crisp, transparency high, visibility excellent – you can often see the main peak.
8. Is UV radiation strong in Lijiang? Is the climate dry?
Yes, even in the rainy season, your skin may peel. Always bring sunglasses and sunscreen. Women should also bring hydrating serum and face masks. Drink plenty of water, and remember to moisturize after showering.
9. Where’s a good place to see a doctor if I get sick in Lijiang?
The large hospital close to the Old Town is Lijiang People’s Hospital, plus Gucheng District Traditional Chinese Medicine Hospital. There’s a branch of the TCM hospital near Big Stone Bridge in the Old Town; for minor headaches and fever, you can go there.
Alright, that wraps up the Lijiang self-guided tour. It really drained a lot of brain cells. Some content is adopted from other guides I agree with, but most are my own opinions. I hope this helps friends who plan to visit Lijiang – provided you have the patience to read through. Of course, if you still feel confused after reading, just leave a message; I’ll reply when I can. Those in a hurry can directly add my QQ: 375406759 (Xiao V). Finally, wishing all of you a joyful, delightful, and little-surprise-filled trip to Lijiang! Tashi Delek!!!
If you’re a bit lazy or fall into one of these categories and want me to plan an itinerary, please provide your information in this format:
Name and contact details:
Places of interest:
Mode of travel: (plane/train/bus/ship/other)
Number of fellow travelers, ages, and fitness levels:
Travel budget (upper limit):
Purpose of trip: (select one or describe yourself)
1. Appreciate cultural and historical sites
2. Vacation and leisure
3. Find a place to zone out
4. Experience folk festival atmosphere
5. Seek lesser-known landscapes
Other requirements and notes:
