Yunnan Free and Easy Travel Guide

South of the colorful clouds, a 7-day journey through Dali, Lijiang, and Shangri-La: skies so blue you can touch them, layer upon layer of white clouds, dazzling rainbows. There, the warm sunshine I love best shines all year round… There’s an old tree with gnarled, tangled roots, surrounded by a flower bed, and on that flower bed sit Naxi elders. They sit with calm, steady expressions, as if meditating. Time’s sharp blade seems to vanish on them, like rain soaking into the earth, nourishing the soil, whitening their hair… Summer is here, and the whole country has turned into a furnace, except for one place where flowers bloom as if in spring and the sun shines bright like summer, yet it never gets too hot and there’s no rush. If you happen to have 7 days this summer, why not escape here to beat the heat, flee the swelter and hustle, and slowly savour the most beautiful scenery and memories under the sunshine.

Accommodation: Hostels & Guesthouses

Dali Journey Light Female-Themed Youth Hostel (Highly recommended! Great value, lovely service, and an amazing travel photo service!)

Lijiang Hanshe Inn (Highly recommended! Fantastic deal and attentive service)

Shangri-La Dream Chaser · Meet Inn

Packing List:

1. Phone, ID card, wallet (mobile payments are super convenient in Yunnan, no need to carry too much cash), power bank, charging cable.

2. Backpack: A word of advice – the ancient towns of Lijiang, Lugu Lake, and Shangri-La are all paved with flagstone paths. A suitcase is not recommended unless you’re staying in just one guesthouse and won’t move. I was so glad I brought a backpack; a 40L pack held everything I needed for 7 days.

3. Clothing: In June, Lijiang’s temperature ranges from 15°C to 28°C, while at Pudacuo in Shangri-La it can drop by about 10°C. If you’re only visiting Lijiang and Lugu Lake, you don’t need a heavy coat. I brought 7 outfits for the trip: 2 short-sleeved T-shirts, 2 mid-sleeved tops, 1 sun-protective jacket, 2 dresses, and 1 windproof and waterproof thick coat. During the day, short sleeves were just right; at night, a thin shirt was enough. The heavy coat was only worn for half a day at Pudacuo in Shangri-La – I regretted lugging it all the way because you can rent warm clothes there. Also, shoes matter a lot. The flagstone streets in the old towns are tough to walk on. If you plan to hike Tiger Leaping Gorge and Pudacuo in Shangri-La, bring trainers. I also packed a pair of sandals.

4. Toiletries & cosmetics: I brought small bottles (30ml) of shampoo, shower gel, Shiseido sunscreen (a must – UV rays are fierce, so wear it whenever you go out), facial cleanser, makeup remover, primer, loose powder, and lip balm. I took everything – isn’t that over the top? If you’re not fussy, I don’t recommend bringing so many cosmetics because they’re really, really heavy. Since you’ll be staying in guesthouses, bring your own towels: 2 regular ones and 1 quick-dry towel – essential for long hair.

5. Medicine: Wind oil essence, berberine, and Claritin. I packed each kind in a separate sealed bag so I could grab them in an emergency. I’m prone to allergies, upset stomachs, and mosquito bites – I’m such a hassle!

6. Sun-and-rain umbrella: Mainly for shielding against the intense UV rays, but occasionally for rain too. In Lijiang, rain can come out of nowhere, with heavy showers.

We’d been wanting to wander around Yunnan for ages, but getting from Nanning to Dali or Lijiang was just so inconvenient – either direct flights were too pricey, or transferring from Nanning to Kunming and then another train was too much hassle. But this year, a direct bullet train from Dali to Nanning opened! Over 7 hours straight across South China to Dali – pure bliss! So we just went.

Day 1

After getting off the bullet train, we took a DiDi carpool straight to the hostel. Our Yunnan journey began at Dali Journey Light Hostel. After checking in and settling down, it was past 5 p.m. On the owner’s suggestion, we filled our stomachs at a fantastic cold chicken rice noodle shop, then started wandering around the ancient town.

Dali Ancient Town lies at the foot of the scenic Cangshan Mountain and was once the capital of the ancient Nanzhao Kingdom and Dali Kingdom. It’s a place made for living – locals rise with the sun and rest at dusk, spending leisurely hours tending flowers and basking in the sunlight. Fuxing Road is the busiest pedestrian street, lined with shops selling marble carvings, ethnic clothing, and local specialities. As you weave among the stores, you can hunt for little ethnic souvenirs, and when you’re tired or hungry, street stalls dish up distinctive local snacks. Or you can wander into an open courtyard of a local home and chat with a Bai grandmother doing handicrafts. Sights like Wuhua Tower and the Dali Municipal Museum are also worth a visit.

Nightlife in the Ancient Town: At night, you can mingle with the locals gathering along Foreigner Street and Renmin Road, where there are plenty of unique bars and little cafes. Some have resident singers or impromptu performances by travellers, creating a lively, vibrant scene.

PS: Dali has been renovating recently, with sewer pipes being installed all over the ancient town, so some roads are a bit rough, but it doesn’t really affect getting around or enjoying the sights.

Day 2

Open-top Jeep tour around Cangshan and Erhai Lake, snapping photos all along the way!

(There are several travel photo packages to choose from; we picked the four-person group. The other two ladies with us were art college students – super easy on the eyes!)

PS: Four people per Jeep, the driver doubles as photographer. You can borrow one dress for free for the photoshoot (you can also wear your own clothes; there are places to change along the way). Girls who want a dress provided by the hostel – make sure to get up early because there are many girls choosing dresses, and the prettiest fairy-like dresses are first come, first served!

When visiting Dali, most people opt to hire a car, carpool, or rent an e-bike to circle Erhai Lake. But the full loop is over 100 kilometres; renting an e-bike is dangerous, and driving means you can’t fully enjoy the scenery. So joining a carpool travel photo tour is a great choice – it’s hassle-free and safe, plus you get a set of stunning photos.

We gathered at 9 a.m., set off around 9:30, and drove to the group photo spot – it was so cool with the fleet of Jeeps!

We got back to the hostel after 6 p.m., and it was a truly happy day. We went out for a hot pot, then spent the evening listening to live music on Renmin Road. A full day passed beautifully.

We got back to the hostel after 6 p.m., and it was a truly happy day. We went out for a hot pot, then spent the evening listening to live music on Renmin Road. A full day passed beautifully.

Day 3

Cangshan Mountain

I slept in until I woke naturally, then on the hostel guy’s advice, started exploring Cangshan. Cangshan’s Snow, one of Dali’s famed “Wind, Flower, Snow, Moon” quartet, is not to be missed. Buying tickets at the Ancient Town Visitor Centre was a bit cheaper than at the site, and it included transport, which was very cost-effective. Taking a taxi on your own would also cost around ten yuan. If your health allows, I recommend the Ximatan large cable car. At the Qilongnu station you transfer; it’s best to switch and visit Ximatan first because each day the scenic area decides when to close the Ximatan cable car based on weather. The morning we went, there was a last-minute announcement that it would close at 1 p.m. After getting off the cable car, we continued climbing. At 3,966 metres, the scenery became even more spectacular, with lush vegetation, blue skies, and white clouds – remember sunscreen! Climb slowly, rest to catch your breath, and if you feel unwell, you can use oxygen. We didn’t see any snow that day, but it was still worth it: we saw the mirror-like Ximatan Lake, with clouds reflected on the water’s surface, just gorgeous. After that, we took the cable car back to Qilongnu station to visit Qilongnu Pool – the views were delicate and lovely. Because you have to hike down the mountain yourself, if you’re low on energy, you can buy a battery car ticket; it’s still well worth seeing.

After coming down, we went to the “Most Beautiful Nunnery in China” recommended by the hostel guy – Jizhao Nunnery. There’s an abundance of succulents there, which my best friend adored, snapping photo after photo. I heard the vegetarian meals are good too, but we unfortunately missed them. If you arrive early, you can borrow a tea set and sip tea, which is wonderfully relaxing.

Three days flew by. We strolled the ancient town a few times, soaked in all the beauty of Erhai Lake and Cangshan Mountain, captured the best images, and tasted Xizhou baba, pulled pork rice noodles, and free-range chicken hot pot. Now it was time to say goodbye to Dali and head to the next stop – Lijiang.

Lijiang Hanshe Inn costs over 100 yuan a night. Three days flew by. We strolled the ancient town a few times, soaked in all the beauty of Erhai Lake and Cangshan Mountain, captured the best images, and tasted Xizhou baba, pulled pork rice noodles, and free-range chicken hot pot. Now it was time to say goodbye to Dali and head to the next stop – Lijiang.

Day 4

Lijiang Hanshe Inn

Lijiang is home to famous scenic spots like Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and Lashi Lake. After checking into our inn in the ancient town, we headed to a popular Instagram spot – Lashi Lake Cloud End Club. The Cloud End Club includes activities like boating on Lashi Lake, horse riding along the Tea Horse Road, free-range chicken hot pot, and photo opportunities at the club.

Lashi Lake is Yunnan’s first nature reserve named after a “wetland.” Although it’s called a “sea” in Chinese, it’s actually a stretch of water in the Lashi Basin below Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Because landlocked Yunnan never sees the ocean, any large lake is traditionally called a sea. Around Lashi Lake, there are many horse farms offering wide-open views. You can experience the thrill of galloping across the grasslands on horseback, with the boundless beauty of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain as your backdrop.

Lijiang Dayan Ancient Town: In the evening, we explored the ancient town. Lijiang, the city of one-metre sunshine, was once the stuff of travel dreams for many. In recent years it’s drawn criticism for commercialisation and its “city of romance” label, but it’s still beautiful – the scenery remains, only people see it differently. At night, standing at the viewpoint overlooking the panorama of the ancient town, my heart was full of emotion. I immediately dropped my prejudices and embraced this lovely place.

I guess a thousand people have a thousand different Lijiangs. Lijiang can be raucous, partying all night with people from different cities, drinking until you pass out; Lijiang can be gentle, embracing your joy and sorrow, melting away your shackles; and Lijiang can be tranquil, with little bridges over flowing streams, sunlight filtering through clouds while you daydream in the ancient town… Life here is very simple, yet incredibly rich…

Day 5

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

In the Naxi language, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is called “Oulu”. This mountain, which brings together subtropical, temperate, and frigid zone landscapes, is said to be the incarnation of the Naxi protective deity “Sanduo”, and has always been revered by the Naxi people as a sacred mountain. The cable car takes you up to 4,506 metres; from there, you climb step by step to the summit at 4,680 metres. Standing on the viewing platform and looking out, the icy peaks towering against the sky are especially magnificent. Plus, you can get up close to the snow and ice here.

Tips for visiting:

① After entering the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain scenic area gate, you can take an eco-friendly bus to the large cable car parking lot. To go up the mountain, you must take the large cable car.

② The mountain entrance fee is separate from the cable car ticket – make sure to queue early to buy the cable car ticket! It’s best to book the large cable car ticket a day in advance, or you might waste time queuing and affect the rest of your itinerary. Joining a day tour can save you a lot of hassle: just go straight to the cable car queue the next day, freeing up plenty of time for sightseeing.

③ There’s nowhere to buy food during the ascent, so bring some snacks just in case.

④ If there’s heavy snow from November to March, you can also visit the ski resort – that’s when Glacier Park is at its most fun.

Blue Moon Valley

Blue Moon Valley is a famous lovers’ spot, comprising four lakes: Jade Liquid Lake, Mirror Pool Lake, Blue Moon Lake, and Listening-to-the-Tide Lake. When you look out over the whole scenic area, it really does look like a blue gem of a lake nestled among the mountains. Any photo you take here – whether of scenery or people – is amazing, needing no editing, especially with green and yellow layered forests and the snow-covered peaks in the background… The mystical colours of Blue Moon Valley will stay with you for a lifetime.

Tips for visiting:

① After coming down from Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, you can take the eco-friendly bus to the Blue Moon Valley scenic area. The bus passes Spruce Meadow first; if you want to visit Spruce Meadow, plan your time accordingly – it takes about 1-2 hours. If time is short, head straight to Blue Moon Valley.

② Within Blue Moon Valley, there are battery cars between attractions, but they cost an extra 50 yuan. Usually you don’t need them (they’re like sightseeing vehicles) – walking takes about 40 minutes.

③ There are many restaurants in Blue Moon Valley for meals, usually serving hot pot or stir-fried dishes.

Blue Moon Valley was previously known as “White Water River,” located in the valley south of Spruce Meadow and north of Ganhaizi, on the eastern slope of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. It originates from snowmelt flowing down the cliffs, gathering into mountain streams and rivulets, eventually forming a crystal-clear, sweet river in the upper reaches of Blue Moon Valley. On sunny days, the water is blue, and the valley is crescent-shaped, so from afar it looks like a blue moon nestled at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain – hence the name. As it flows, it’s blocked by the mountain, creating four larger bodies of water known as “Jade Liquid” Lake, “Mirror Pool” Lake, “Blue Moon” Lake, and “Listening-to-the-Tide” Lake.

One day is enough to explore Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The total cost is around 500 yuan, and you’ll need to prepare cold-weather clothing and an oxygen canister. After descending the mountain, we had booked bus tickets to Shangri-La for 5:10 p.m., so we rushed back to the inn, grabbed our luggage, and hurried to the bus station. It was the last bus of the day to Shangri-La, a nearly 5-hour journey passing through the Tiger Leaping Gorge scenic area with spectacular views.

Day 6

We arrived in Shangri-La quite late, so sightseeing started the next day. We first visited Songzanlin Monastery.

From outside the monastery, you can see its golden roof, dazzlingly resplendent, especially when sunlight hits it. The guide told us that Tibetans typically donate the first portion of their earnings to build monasteries, and they take pride in family members becoming monks, so Songzanlin Monastery is rather beautifully built.

Regarding taboos when visiting, the monastery guide will give reminders, and I really recommend listening to the commentary – it gives you a rough understanding of Tibetan Buddhism, well worth hearing. So, once inside the monastery, try not to make noise or take photos everywhere; just listen. You might gain something different. Even if you’re not a believer, respect and understanding are important. If you wish, you can light a butter lamp or burn a stick of incense.

In the evening, we strolled around Dukezong Ancient Town. It’s quieter and more laid-back than Dali or Lijiang, with a distinct Tibetan cultural atmosphere.

Day 7

The next day, our main activity was visiting Pudacuo National Forest Park. We reached the viewpoint at Shudu Lake and admired the lake scenery.

Then we drove through the primeval forest and pastureland, with the guide providing commentary along the way and stopping at key spots for photos. At the Bita Lake area, we chose to hike on foot, enjoying the beautiful scenery and, if lucky, feeding some little squirrels. I felt my stamina was sufficient. If you’re with elderly people or those suffering severe altitude sickness, taking a boat (50 yuan) and walking a short section is an acceptable alternative.

After visiting Pudacuo National Park, we wrapped up all the sights of our two-day Shangri-La trip. Finally, we visited a Tibetan house – owning one really makes you feel like a tycoon! The all-wood structure and huge living room would probably cost tens of millions in the city. (Wow, forgive me for being so unworldly, haha.)

At around 6 p.m., we took a bus out of Shangri-La, heading to Dali to catch the bullet train back to Nanning. With limited time and a wish not to rush, we had to skip some equally tempting spots – Lugu Lake, for example, wasn’t visited, and we didn’t get a proper look at Shangri-La’s grasslands. These are small regrets, but they also give us a reason to come back again.

Colourful Yunnan, until we meet again~