South of the Colorful Clouds: A Dreamlike Journey to Lijiang
China is a multi-ethnic country with 56 ethnic groups. Yunnan Province, the province with the most ethnic groups, is home to 26 of them, with 25 being non-Han minorities. It has long been a dream travel destination thanks to its rich and colorful ethnic cultures and breathtaking natural landscapes. Ancient towns, natural scenery, cultural sights, and ethnic traditions are the four highlights of Yunnan travel. Dali and Lijiang, as prime examples of ancient towns and natural beauty, constantly attract countless visitors from home and abroad to experience their unique charm.
I visited Yunnan in October, a lovely time of clear autumn skies and crisp air. I first went to Lijiang to soak up the warm sunshine, then headed to Dali to cycle around Erhai Lake and take in the stunning waterscapes of this photographer’s paradise.
Day 1: Oct 6 | Fly to Lijiang (stay in Lijiang)
Day 2: Oct 7 | Visit Lashihai Wetland Park and Shuhe Ancient Town (stay in Lijiang)
Day 3: Oct 8 | Visit Qingxi Reservoir and Yuhu Village (stay in Lijiang)
Day 4: Oct 9 | Explore Baisha Ancient Town, then travel from Lijiang to Dali (stay in Dali)
Day 5: Oct 10 | Tour Cangshan Mountain and Dali Ancient City (stay in Dali)
Day 6: Oct 11 | Ride an electric scooter around Erhai Lake (stay in Dali)
Day 7: Oct 12 | Visit the Three Pagodas of Dali (stay in Dali)
Day 8: Oct 13 | Fly back to Chengdu
You can view the sight map on Baidu Maps: https://j.
The flight I took departed in the afternoon and arrived in Lijiang at 6:30 PM. There were shuttle buses from the airport directly to Lijiang Old Town, dropping passengers right at the main entrance—very convenient. Lijiang Old Town, also known as Dayan Ancient Town, is one of China’s four best-preserved ancient towns. Lijiang is the homeland of the Naxi people. To really immerse myself in the old-town atmosphere, I booked a hotel right in the heart of the old town, so I could step out and wander around at any time, day or night.
At night, Lijiang is ablaze with lights. As visitors are mostly confined to the old town, it seems even livelier than during the day. Diners enjoying meals in restaurants, people dancing in squares, karaoke singers belting out tunes, vendors hawking in night markets—all mingling with the murmuring water flowing through the town. The ancient town transforms into a city that never sleeps, brimming with joy and happiness.
Suggested time: 1 day
Transport: Take bus 7 or other routes from within Lijiang to reach Lijiang Old Town.
Tickets: Free, but there is an old-town maintenance fee of 50 yuan per person.
Last night I strolled several rounds in the old town. It’s quite large, and first-time visitors might get lost because all the streets look so similar you can’t tell where you are. The sunshine here is truly special—early morning sunlight warms the ancient streets gently.
My first stop today was Lashihai, a wetland park not far from the old town with nice scenery and boating. Minivans to Lashihai usually park at Zhongyi Market near the old town. That’s where I found a shared van, costing 5 yuan per person. About 20 minutes later, we arrived at the Lashihai visitor center. After getting off, we were led into several open rooms—it turned out you had to choose a ticket package there. The packages felt quite pricey, and staff were ready with recommendations, naturally pushing the pricier, all-inclusive ones with sightseeing cars, horseback riding, boating, even different boat types. They were maximizing profit, and since it might be your only visit, they weren’t about to miss the chance to earn from you.
I really didn’t want to ride a horse, so I said I’m allergic to horseback riding and could only do boating. So I chose the manual rowboat package, hehe. I heard that you could actually just walk in from the entrance, but to get visitors to pay for the sightseeing car or horse ride, they stop you at the visitor center and make you buy a package first before entering. It’s not forced, but it’s your own choice, hehe.
The weather was great, and boating on the lake was wonderful. Sunlight warmed my skin, the lake water was a brilliant blue, and the shimmering surface was dotted with water plants and tiny flowers. The smell of the lake, mixed with the fragrance of blossoms and grass, drifted over on a gentle breeze—truly nature’s finest treat. There were many other boaters, and I greeted them from time to time. When I got tired, I lay back in the boat, sunbathing and dozing off a little. It was very quiet, with only the distant sound of oars occasionally breaking the silence. Boating lasted two hours and ended around 1 PM.
Then I walked back along the lakeside boardwalk. The weather can change in an instant—just moments ago it was sunny, and suddenly dark clouds rolled in, looking like rain.
Suggested time: 2–3 hours
Transport: From Zhongyi Market, there are direct minibuses to Lashihai Wetland Park; shared rides cost about 5 yuan per person.
Tickets: 38 yuan (including sightseeing car)
Lijiang isn’t just about Dayan Ancient Town—there are several other old towns. Shuhe Ancient Town is one of the more famous ones. Although many old towns now seem quite similar, I still wanted to experience this popular spot firsthand. I planned to spend the afternoon wandering around Shuhe.
Shuhe Ancient Town lies northwest of Lijiang Old Town. Compared with Lijiang Old Town, Shuhe is quieter, with fewer tourists, making it perfect for those seeking a slow, daydreaming kind of life. In the afternoon, the weather changed abruptly and a light drizzle began. Fortunately, it wasn’t heavy, but Shuhe became even less crowded. A cultural event about to start in the square was temporarily halted by the drizzle.
Strangely, the weather turned again. Within fifteen minutes, it cleared up, and blue sky and white clouds smiled down once more. My mood lifted, and I continued strolling through Shuhe. I felt the scenery here was even more distinctive than Lijiang Old Town—some spots had a wonderful sense of age. It’s also a paradise for photographers; I came across many couples taking wedding photos, and indeed the backdrops were very special.
I bought a ticket to enter Shuhe Ancient Town, which included electric cart rides to and from the site. The last cart back was at 5 PM, by which time I’d seen enough, so I took it. Back in Lijiang Old Town, I climbed up to Wenchang Palace in the sunset and captured a panoramic view of the old town.
Suggested time: 3–4 hours
Transport: Take bus 11 or other routes from within Lijiang to Shuhe Ancient Town.
Tickets: 40 yuan (including sightseeing cart)
Lijiang is a tourist city. While not large, it has an excellent bus network. Almost all sights can be reached by bus, and even if you need to walk, it’s never far. Buses cost a flat 1 yuan, and they aren't crowded.
North of Lijiang Old Town lies Qingxi Reservoir, with a park by its shore. From here, you can see Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the distance—it’s a great free spot for sightseeing and relaxation. I went in the morning, with lovely sunshine. A breeze rippled the deep blue lake, and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain looked extraordinarily majestic under the sunlight.
In the middle of the lake, a walkway connects the two shores, with a white stone arch bridge along it. Rows of tall trees line the path, providing lovely shade and a cool breeze. The stone bridge is quite distinctive. I happened upon a couple taking wedding photos on it, their faces beaming with happiness. Trees surround the lake, rustling softly in the breeze.
The reservoir isn’t large. After taking some photos and spending an hour or two, it was about enough. In the afternoon, I planned to visit a very unique stone village—Yuhu Village.
Suggested time: 1 hour
Transport: Take bus 3 from within Lijiang and get off at Qingxi Reservoir stop.
Yuhu Village is about ten kilometers north of Lijiang Old Town. You can take bus 17 directly from Xiangshan Market; the ride takes about 1.5 hours.
The village sits practically at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain; looking up, you see the towering peaks. All the houses here are built of stone. Each home has its own little courtyard, some with horses tethered at the gate. The roads are paved with cobblestones—truly distinctive.
Yuhu Village has long attracted many visitors, so the locals are very warm and hospitable. Several asked if I wanted to ride a horse; I said I’d already done that and preferred to walk and look around. One villager pointed out a path and told me that if I followed it for about fifteen minutes, I’d reach a lake. So off I went.
Arriving at the lake, the water was crystal clear. The blue sky and white clouds framed the towering Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, reflected perfectly in the lake—as if all of nature had settled at the bottom. This is Yuhu (Jade Lake), said to have been dug before the Ming Dynasty, with centuries of history.
After seeing Yuhu, I wandered around the village some more. At 3:30 PM, I caught a bus heading back toward Lijiang Old Town. Not far from the old town is Red Sun Square, built by the people of Lijiang in honor of Chairman Mao. There’s a huge statue of him waving, very imposing.
Suggested time: 4 hours
Transport: Take bus 17 from within Lijiang and get off at Yuhu Village Square stop.
Today was my last day in Lijiang. In the morning I planned to visit Baisha Ancient Town, and in the afternoon take a train to Dali. To avoid crowds and get better photos, I got up extra early and took one more stroll around Lijiang Old Town, snapping pictures here and there.
The most distinctive feature of Lijiang is its ancient town culture. There are many old towns here—I’d already visited Dayan (Lijiang Old Town) and Shuhe. Today I was off to Baisha Ancient Town, a bit farther away. This was the original settlement of the Naxi people on the Lijiang plain and the birthplace of the Mu clan chieftains, serving as the earliest political center of the Naxi.
Baisha Ancient Town is about 12 kilometers north of Lijiang city, a small, old town very close to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Bus 6 from Lijiang Old Town goes directly there—very convenient. It feels smaller than the other ancient towns, with fewer tourists. Since it’s almost at the foot of the snow mountain, you can see the lofty peaks just by glancing up.
There are many dyeing workshops here, and you can buy hand-dyed fabrics made on the spot. They are beautiful and full of local character.
Suggested time: 2–3 hours
Transport: Take bus 6 from within Lijiang and get off at Baisha Township People's Government stop.
In the afternoon, I returned to Lijiang Old Town, picked up my luggage, and headed straight to the train station. I took a train around 5 PM to Dali to begin the Dali leg of my trip. Please stay tuned for the second part of this travelogue, 'South of the Colorful Clouds – A Relaxed Journey in Dali.'
Travelogue Contents: 1. Itinerary: 2. Day1: Fly to Lijiang 3. Day2: Visit Lashihai Wetland Park, Shuhe Ancient Town 4. Day3: Visit Qingxi Reservoir, Yuhu Village 5. Day4: Visit Baisha Ancient Town, Lijiang to Dali Travel Info Hotel Index Guide Index Flight Index Website Navigation Travel Index Cruise Index Corporate Travel Index Join Cooperation Distribution Alliance Friendly Links Enterprise Gift Card Procurement Insurance Agent Agency Cooperation Hotel Joining Destination and Scenic Spot Cooperation More Cooperation About Ctrip About Ctrip Ctrip Hot Topics Contact Us Careers User Agreement Privacy Policy Business License Security Center Ctrip Content Center Intellectual Property Trip.com Group Algorithm Disclosure
