In Lijiang, I danced freely, savoring the joy of life’s slow spin!
The slow pace of Lijiang should be carefree: no need to rise early, no rush. If you stay in Dayan Ancient Town, Zhongyi Market is the nearest local market. It’s mushroom season in Yunnan, baskets and baskets of fungi I can’t even name just sitting there, waiting for savvy eaters to take them home and do justice to nature’s gifts. There are fresh flowers, fresh fruit, vegetables, and no shortage of delicious cheap eats – prices definitely lower than inside the old town. Whether you’re here long-term or just a short stay, if you don’t wander through this market, your Lijiang trip feels a little incomplete.
I know, caught up in the city’s hustle and bustle, you also yearn for this kind of life: sleep in until the sun is high, curl up in a wicker chair in a courtyard and let the breeze dry your just-washed hair, snip a few new blossoms for a vase, grind ink and write a few lines about the sunny day, then grab a bamboo basket and stroll to the market with your dog, buy some freshly picked vegetables, and chat a bit with the lady selling greens. Before 10 a.m., the old town is hushed, with only the occasional footsteps on the bluestone lanes – the perfect time for photographing architecture. Wander without direction, duck into any alley, and you’ll find a charming backdrop.
They say every lantern in Lijiang holds a story. I wonder, how many drinks would you need to trade for all those tales?
Lion Hill is a must. The entrance ticket is 50 yuan, but you don’t have to go inside and climb Wangu Tower; the neighbouring cafés also offer great views. Don’t be fooled by so-called free visits – who visits without taking photos? And they’ll charge you for photographing. The place we walked into, we’d planned to sit down and order a drink, but the prices just weren’t worth it, so we got up to leave and were told we’d need to pay 5 yuan per person. So we decided to stay a bit longer and snap a few more pictures. If you have a whole afternoon free, lingering here daydreaming is pretty lovely too.
At night, Sifang Street is jam-packed, but during the day it’s an open space. Every day at 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. there are traditional circle dance activities, even if they only last a few minutes.
‘With youthful ideals, one dwells to gain insight.’ Qingzhi, a small distance from the old town, nestles in a quiet lane. Its lush greenery pairs beautifully with the ‘qing’ (green) character on the door plaque.
A place I’m really happy with, so peaceful. The commercial touch is there but not too heavy, quite bearable. Having visited Dali Ancient Town, I feel Dali can hardly be called an ancient town anymore. We went to Shuhe Ancient Town early in the morning and spent the whole day there, wandering and pausing. So many spots are worth slowing down and savouring. Sit down in a shop, have a cup of afternoon tea, a rare tranquillity – everywhere you look is a view. I highly recommend you go, plan to stay a whole day, don’t rush away, because Shuhe Ancient Town is worth staying for!
In Shuhe Ancient Town, there’s a well-known old restaurant, really famous. Many celebrities dine here when in Lijiang. We made a point of eating at this place this trip. Wow, I fell in love with the ambience at first sight. We tried the food and – wow – so good, really delicious, we loved it! Best meal of the whole Lijiang trip – I simply must recommend it!
Today’s plan is heading to Yuhu Village, called ‘Wuluken’ in the Naxi language, meaning ‘at the foot of the snow mountain’. From the village you can hike or ride a horse to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Its current name comes from the Jade Lake that mirrors the snowy peak.
While we were busy photographing buildings, insistent villagers kept coming up: ‘Horse ride? Horse ride? Horse ride??’ Thinking, since we’re here, let’s do it. We finally bargained to 50 yuan per person, to be taken to the lake and back, about an hour. At first, I was happily imagining Jade Lake, but it turned out to be just a fish pond.
If you have a telephoto lens, with respect for the villagers, you can capture some local life. You rarely see the younger generation; mostly it’s the elderly carrying or holding young children. When they tire, they find a wall corner to sit and chat with neighbours.
Before leaving, buy some fruit at the parking lot, especially the pears – so good I can still taste their sweetness.
Baisha Ancient Town. Yes, we’re back. Since we’d chartered a car together, and Teacher Renzhe and the others hadn’t been to Baisha Ancient Town, and I’d missed the Baisha Murals a few days ago, we simply decided to walk around together again.
The proprietress said she is 94, and her husband, He Shixiu, is 95. He’s a folk medical master reported by many media outlets. Recently, CCTV-10’s science and education channel featured him in an episode of ‘Materia Medica of China’, the latest one called ‘Youqing’ (Emotion).
So we went next door to check it out. The old man asked, ‘Where are you from?’ We answered Shanghai. He immediately blurted out a Shanghai phrase, which has to do with his schooling in Nanjing and Shanghai. Entering his small clinic, the walls are covered with reports about him, and one wall is a business card wall left by visitors. He enthusiastically showed us each, like he was counting cherished treasures.
‘In front of the clinic, an elderly man in his nineties, deep feelings yet wordless. Day after day, in the effortless flow of life, content to be a commoner spreading the culture of Chinese medicine.’
Passing by an embroidery shop, some were learning here, some completing works. A finished masterpiece takes one person several months of work. The inner room displays the works; you can look up close but not take photographs.
Travelogue Contents 1. Lijiang Ancient Town 2. Enjoy Life in Shuhe Ancient Town 3. Horse Riding in Yuhu Village 4. Baisha Ancient Town, Here I Come Travel Information Hotel Index Guide Index Flight Index Website Navigation Travel Index Cruise Index Corporate Travel Index Partnership Distribution Alliance Links Corporate Gift Card Purchase Insurance Agent Agent Cooperation Hotel Joining Destination and Scenic Spot Cooperation More Partnerships About Ctrip About Ctrip Ctrip Hot Topics Contact Us Careers User Agreement Privacy Policy Business License Security Center Ctrip Content Center Intellectual Property Trip.com Group Algorithm Disclosure