Self-Drive Trip in Yunnan
The trip to Lugu Lake was prompted by others; otherwise, I had no such intention.
I always thought Lugu Lake was in Yunnan, until just before I left I learned that it actually straddles Sichuan and Yunnan, with Yunnan possessing only about one-third of the lake.
I originally planned to fly round-trip to Lijiang and then drive to Lugu Lake, but due to a lack of suitable flights, I had to change to a round-trip flight to Kunming, then drive, and along the way revisit Dali and Lijiang. Although it was still during the pandemic, flying from Shenzhen to Kunming was fairly convenient; all I needed was a personal health code and a green travel code. Of course, there were multiple temperature checks along the way, but as long as my temperature was normal, I could travel without worry.
I arrived in Kunming around 4 p.m. on May 12. After landing, I went straight to the car rental point as usual, picked up my X5 vehicle, and headed directly to Shuanglang Town in Dali. The highway from Kunming to Dali runs the entire way, but due to many curves and few straight stretches, the average speed was only about 80 km/h. I stayed at the Haiqi Seaview Hotel in Shuanglang Town, Dali. After checking in, it was already 11 p.m. The stay that night was not great: first, the room, though large, lacked style; second, in the middle of the night, I was awakened by a scratching sound from inside the central air conditioning duct, like animal claws. I called the hotel butler and, although they changed my room, the strange noise persisted, only slightly quieter, seriously affecting my sleep quality. However, the hotel service was quite good: not only did they change my room that night, but they also arranged a complimentary stay for my next visit upon checkout, and gave me a gift of Pu'er tea as I left, which showed genuine hospitality.
After leaving Dali, I chose to drive directly to Lugu Lake in Ninglang. The road from Dali to Lijiang was highway all the way, but from Lijiang to Ninglang, it was almost all winding mountain roads, with the highest elevation reaching 3,000 meters. The most thrilling part of the journey was the Eighteen Bends of Lining, which plunge from the mountaintop to the valley bottom with an elevation difference of over a thousand meters, all on a narrow cliff-hanging road. Driving on it was both exciting and hair-raising. As the saying goes, "Limitless scenery lies at perilous peaks." Standing at the viewing platform of the Eighteen Bends, gazing into the distance, the magnificent and spectacular view overwhelmed me, making me feel that the journey over mountains and the adventure through the bends were well worth it.
The "Sky Mirror" on the Lining highway is set at the highest point, a leisure platform at 3,000 meters above sea level, with blue sky and white clouds above, surrounded by mountains, and majestic snow-capped peaks in the distance—truly an excellent spot for relaxation, sightseeing, and photography. Nowadays, many scenic areas feature "Sky Mirror" attractions, but I've noticed they are almost all designed for women—of course, because women naturally love beauty and enjoy striking various poses for photos to showcase their elegant charm. What about men? Couldn't they also don a white robe, with a feather fan and silk headscarf, or hold a long sword, to display their refined and graceful demeanor?
The drive from Lijiang to Lugu Lake isn't far—only about 200 kilometers—but nearly the entire route is winding mountain road, so you can't speed up; the average speed is only about 50 km/h. Lugu Lake sits at an elevation of about 2,600 meters. When I entered the scenic area gate and descended the mountain road toward the lake, that expanse of deep blue water suddenly appeared before my eyes—so stunningly beautiful that I almost wanted to stop the car and gaze at it immediately.
Daluoshui Village is right by the lake. The Yanzuo Lake View Luxury Guesthouse is built lakeside; sitting in the room, you can take in the full lake and mountain scenery, and a few steps bring you to the water to play. The lake water is cool and crystal clear, with gentle ripples on the surface. The bright sunlight casts a shimmering, star-like reflection across the lake—truly a sight to behold! Strolling along the shore, with a gentle breeze on my face, I felt far removed from the worldly dust, in a moment of tranquil serenity.
Lige Peninsula sits at the foot of Goddess Mountain. Called a peninsula, it's actually more like a narrow, short causeway extending into the lake. The "Dear Inn" (from the TV show) is located on Lige Peninsula, which became more widely known thanks to Hunan TV's program. There's a viewing platform on the peninsula, an excellent spot to photograph the full panorama of Lugu Lake, best in the early morning or evening when the water and sky merge into a seamless deep blue—breathtakingly beautiful. There are many distinctive guesthouses on Lige Peninsula; the one I stayed at, Lehai Ju by Liuyue, is not lakeside but has its own character, with a feel of retreating into a private little world—also a popular photo spot for social media.
A full circuit around Lugu Lake is about 70 kilometers; to savor it thoroughly, three to five days might not be enough, but a quick tour can be done in a day. Every spot around the lake is scenic, each with its own charm, but the highlights are Daluoshui Village, Lovers' Beach, Lige Peninsula, Goddess Mountain, Yang Erche Namu Museum, Lugu Lake Town, Goddess Bay, Caohai (Sea of Grass), Walking Marriage Bridge, and more. Gazing at Goddess Mountain from Goddess Bay, the mountain, with the lake below, looks just like a long-haired beauty lying beside the water, staring at the starry sky as if searching for her own star. Rowing through the Sea of Grass, the clear water reveals swaying aquatic plants, delicate little white flowers bobbing on the surface, and occasionally a startled migratory bird suddenly takes flight nearby and quickly disappears into the distant reeds, reminding me of childhood fun. Walking marriage is a traditional custom of the Mosuo people, though it is no longer practiced today; the Walking Marriage Bridge is merely a symbol. In one day and two nights, I spent less than 40 hours at Lugu Lake, but that was enough to take in the lake and mountain scenery and alpine vistas. The round trip from Lijiang took nearly eight hours, but the scenery along the way was well worth every minute.
I had been to Lijiang years ago but didn't go up Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Due to altitude sickness, I again had no plans to climb it this time, but I wanted to see it up close. As I approached, I realized that Jade Dragon Snow Mountain rises abruptly from the plain, making it appear particularly towering and majestic. The white snow sparkled brilliantly in the sunlight, easily captured from all angles with my camera to record its grand presence.
Blue Moon Valley lies at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, consisting of a series of small lakes cascading down the valley step by step. The water is a milky blue-white, as if someone poured blue ink into a lake of milk—exquisite to behold. The vegetation around Blue Moon Valley is rich and diverse; all kinds of fruits can be seen overhead, and the pine cones are large and varied in shape, making me think how happy the squirrels here must be.
Back in Lijiang, I chose to stay at Shanyi Art Residence within the ancient town. Parking is not allowed inside the town, so I left my car at the South Gate parking lot; fortunately, the guesthouse sent someone to pick me up, so it was quite convenient. Entering the ancient town required a health code check, which I passed without issue. Shanyi Art Residence is modest in scale and not particularly artsy, but the guestroom was nice—quiet, clean, and tidy. Waking in the morning during the pandemic, Lijiang's streets had few tourists and few open shops, which allowed me to slow down and wander leisurely. Everywhere, from streets to alleys, vibrant flowers bloomed in astonishing colors, so vivid that I often doubted they were real until I touched them and confirmed they were indeed genuine. As I strolled through Dayan Ancient Town, I unknowingly found myself surrounded by succulent plants: by the gently babbling streams, under the eaves—succulents were everywhere, in a wide variety. Though their colors and forms were quite similar, through their owners' careful cultivation and arrangement, they appeared so colorful and picturesque that I couldn't help but stop and linger. Due to time constraints, I didn't stay long in Lijiang. Around noon, I took a break at a small café near Mufu (Mu's Mansion), had a cold drink and a couple of snacks, then drove to Dali Ancient Town.
Readers who love Jin Yong's martial arts novels will be familiar with Dali. The philandering Prince Duan is likely a dream for many men, while the charming young Prince Duan Yu is the idol of many girls. "Xiaguan's wind, Shangguan's flowers, Cangshan's snow, Erhai's moon"—just twelve words vividly capture Dali's romantic charm, which draws countless travelers. I'm not one for romance, but I particularly admire the Chongsheng Temple Three Pagodas. Built during the reign of the Nanzhao king Quan Fengyou (A.D. 824–859), the main pagoda, "Qianxun Pagoda," stands 69.13 meters tall, a square, multi-eaved brick pagoda with 16 stories. Later, the two smaller octagonal brick pagodas, each 42.19 meters tall with 10 stories, were added to the south and north, followed by the grand Chongsheng Temple. Over a decade ago, I visited the Three Pagodas, and a guide told me: the small pagodas were built in the Han dynasty, slender in form, while the central pagoda was from the Tang dynasty, plumper—since the Han admired slimness and the Tang admired plumpness, the pagodas' architecture reflected the aesthetic of "Yan's slimness and Huan's plumpness." I believed that for years, but historical records now show it's inaccurate. I'm not a religious person; the reason I admire the Chongsheng Temple Three Pagodas is that I work in the construction industry. The temple's superb location against Cangshan Mountain and facing Erhai Lake, its multi-courtyard layout, grand architectural structure, and the perfect integration of the three pagodas with the temple fill me with awe.
Dali No. 1 Courtyard was my last hotel on this Yunnan trip. It's said that singer Faye Wong always stays here when she visits Dali. I didn't come because of her, but I figured if it's her choice, the setting must be good. Located in a corner of Dali Ancient Town, the location is excellent, especially when standing on the bathroom balcony, gazing at distant Cangshan Mountain and the ancient town below—it's truly refreshing. The bathroom is bright and clean; drawing the sheer curtain, filling the tub with warm water, and half-reclining while looking out the high window at the beautiful Cangshan scenery dispels all fatigue—so comfortable. With the pandemic keeping tourist numbers low, Dali Ancient Town was unusually quiet, free from the usual hustle and bustle. Strolling leisurely, my mood was exceptionally good; at times, I almost wished I could "stay forever as a guest of Dali."
On May 17, I bid farewell to Dali, drove straight to Kunming airport, and took the evening flight back to Shenzhen, ending my short six-day Yunnan journey.
