After journeying through thousands of waters and mountains, I finally found a spiritual home in Lijiang Old Town

After journeying through thousands of waters and mountains, I finally found a spiritual home in Lijiang Old Town

📍 Lijiang · 👁 2 reads · ❤️ 67 likes

Sometimes I really want to believe in movies about time turning back. That year after university, because of TV dramas like 'A Meter of Sunshine' and 'Beijing Youth', I set foot for the first time in this town on the ancient Tea Horse Road, which has over eight hundred years of history. The old town was built against hills and beside streams, blending the charm of a mountain city with the grace of a water town. Main streets border the river, alleys trace the canals, and ancient stone lanes wind through—here I left behind beautiful memories.

Five years later, I returned to this historic town: Lijiang Old Town. It felt as if time had never moved forward; everything was as familiar as ever. Treading the long, flagstone-paved alleys, I caught the faint everyday scents of the old town. Now and then, a leisurely passerby would drift by, leaving hazy memories suspended in time. This is the Lijiang Old Town everyone dreams of visiting. Surrounded by lush green hills, each alley hides its own legend. The tiled roofs of the old town cluster together, and the roads are paved with colorful hornblende stones, polished even smoother and more lustrous by pedestrians and rain.

Lijiang Old Town has several hundred bridges—stone arch bridges and slab bridges spanning the never-ending flow of water. Lush greenery clusters along the banks, with bright bougainvillea and green moss crawling into every corner of the alleys, as if you've stepped into a richly colored oil painting of captivating beauty.

People come to Lijiang to meet another version of themselves or to forget the past. As you wander through the old town, you feel the leisurely rhythm in every flower and leaf. Perhaps that single ray of afternoon sunshine can reach the softest spot in your heart. So you discover that in Lijiang, the most precious thing is sunlight, and the least valuable is time.

Apart from strolling the old town and soaking up the slow pace of life, if you love food, you can spend a whole day seeking out flavors you enjoy. Don't miss Naxi rice cake, black goat hot pot, Naxi spare rib hot pot, butter tea, and chickpea jelly.

If you want to delve deeper into the cultural roots of Lijiang Old Town, you must visit Mufu Palace. This was the residence of the Mu chieftains, the Naxi rulers who governed Lijiang for 470 years across the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties, starting with the hereditary title granted in 1253. Mufu was the political and cultural center of the region, often called the 'Little Forbidden City.' The architecture blends Ming-style central plains design with Bai and Naxi craftsmanship, making it a landmark of the old town.

Walking onward, you reach Sifang Street, the core and liveliest part of the town. Four main streets radiate from its center, forming a famous snack street. Food stalls and eateries surround you, where you can try Naxi rice cake, fried yogurt, and flower cakes. Next to Sifang Street is Lion Hill, which offers the best spot to capture a panoramic view of the old town. If you visit right after rain, you might even see a rainbow over the rooftops.

Not far away is Dashi Bridge, built by the Mu chieftains during the Ming Dynasty. It's a double-arch stone bridge that has witnessed centuries of prosperity and is the most important of all the bridges in the old town. Many visitors pause here to rest, and street musicians often perform, making it one of the liveliest bridges.

Every street in Lijiang Old Town has its own unique charm. At night, the town reveals a different energy. Sifang Street bustles with crowds, while peaceful, tranquil lanes lie nearby, with water murmuring under small bridges.

Xinhua Street lights up with neon signs from countless bars, full of laughter, song, and dazzling lights—a picture of vibrant nightlife.

Thus, from day to night, I immersed myself in this gentle, serene slow town. It truly seemed to calm a restless heart instantly. Gazing at the brilliant lights, I asked myself: 'Do I still remember my childhood dreams?'

I once dreamed of setting out with a sword and roaming the world, seeing all its splendor.

Now, that dream has come true, yet my soul seems to lack a sense of belonging to a home.

Indeed, over the years of traveling the world, I increasingly feel that even though I have crossed countless rivers and mountains and witnessed magnificent scenery, a hollow feeling still lingers inside. Searching for a pure land in my heart, I returned to Lijiang Old Town. Perhaps I needed to find a 'breakthrough for my soul' within seemingly ordinary life. A free and easy life can bring a peaceful mind, and a free and easy life requires simplifying the complex. A minimalist life is the key to a tranquil heart.

And in Lijiang Old Town, I truly found that key. There is a place called Boxin Yun She · Wenyuan that shows you poetry and distant dreams, helping you rediscover a long-lost sense of belonging or offering a harbor for your heart to anchor. Staying here, I realized that the rhythm of life can truly be this slow, and you can genuinely feel a resting place for your heart. This is Boxin Yun She · Wenyuan in Lijiang Old Town!

It sits in the heart of Lijiang Old Town, covering over 3,000 square meters—the largest courtyard in the old town. The architecture is a compound of five courtyards and a Tea Horse Road garden, forming a courtyard-style complex. Every corner has its own story. It seems that one city, one courtyard, one home, one bedroom are all telling us about Naxi ethnic customs.

Boxin Yun She · Wenyuan is next to Sifang Street on the left, leans against Mufu on the right, is backed by Lion Hill, and embraces the old town—an excellent location on auspicious ground. The courtyard features strong Naxi architectural style blended with the essence of Bai, Yi, and Tibetan cultures. The entire compound is like a secret realm of Dongba culture, where every step reveals a new scene, as if you can hear a thousand years of Dongba culture echoing in your ears.

Lifelike stone lions flank the entrance, complemented by exquisite, elegant paintings and carved beams and painted rafters with flying eaves and brackets, reflecting the grandeur of a traditional Naxi wealthy household. Pushing open the door truly feels like coming home. At a glance, the whole courtyard environment exudes a unique, expansive elegance. Compared with star-rated hotels, it truly has the warmth of a home.

Directly ahead is a screen wall typical of Bai residences, with a round opening framing a vibrant yew pine. Striking a casual pose here yields stunning photos.

To one side of the screen wall, a profusion of succulents, hydrangeas, marguerites... These clusters of colorful blooms and diverse greenery adorn this ancient courtyard with extraordinary brilliance. They seem to convey a positive attitude toward life—it is said that those who love flowers always love people, and this reminds me that the founder of Boxin Yun She, Mr. Xiangzi, must be such a person.

The Zhuan Yun Bridge in the Boxin courtyard is gracefully shaped, with smooth lines like a crescent moon reflected on the water. With the liveliness of water and the vitality of flowers and trees, especially the wispy clouds slowly rising from under the bridge and surrounding it, it looks like a fairy bridge suspended in the air. Since childhood, I’ve yearned for such a leisurely lifestyle—it represents an attitude and interest in life, the spiritual pursuit of Chinese courtyards for thousands of years. A bridge within a courtyard carries not just design, but also art and culture.

Stepping onto Zhuan Yun Bridge and casually pressing the shutter gives you a high success rate of great photos. Strolling through the Zen-inspired courtyard or sitting quietly with a few friends for an afternoon, you feel all weariness swept away by the breeze. Instantly, your mind quiets. Such a courtyard is indeed a perfect place to purify the soul.

In this courtyard, water-themed garden landscapes intertwine with Dongba culture. Time slips through your fingers, yet you feel the sunlight gently caress the poetic scene before you, and your heart becomes incredibly calm. Everything is far from worldly clamor, and your mind expands.

Look, this is the infinity pool system at Boxin Yun She. The design is clever and fun: the pool area is surrounded by a still-water system, which is bordered by an ecological fishpond system. As you walk along these stone paths, koi carp dart back and forth in the pond. When children chase these lively fish, catching a candid photo, time here seems to soften and slow even more.

This is the lobby and dining area, spacious and impressive at the entrance. The ground features a traditional Naxi 'Four Blessings and Longevity' bluestone carving, with a large copper fire basin in the center. Passing through the dougong archway carved with dragons and phoenixes, you face a soaring, open-concept living room. There's no typical hotel front desk; it feels more like your own grand living room. Fruits and snacks are laid out on the table, free for guests to enjoy. The entire lobby is antique and splendid, exuding dignity in every corner.

The great hall is a two-story wooden structure. Ascending the long staircase, you come to the Boxin Library, filled with literary books—prose, poetry, novels, and more. Sipping tea and sitting quietly for an afternoon, just like in your own study, bathed in sunlight streaming through the window, you could happily spend the whole day here.

Boxin Yun She currently has 30 master bedrooms, each named after a famous site, place, or cultural element of Lijiang. They carry different themes, with design styles that to the greatest extent reflect the cultural features of their namesakes, while also incorporating traditional elements of Lijiang's Naxi, Yi, Lisu, Tibetan, and other ethnic minorities. Every master bedroom is over 60 square meters, with the largest exceeding 120 square meters, making the space feel extraordinarily open.

This overturns the traditional hotel 'guest room' concept, creating a 'private master bedroom' feel. Each room is a bedroom with warmth, and though each style is different, every one is unique. From balcony to bedroom, every detail in each room reflects the craftsmanship of the Boxin home.

I was fortunate to visit several master bedroom types. Each truly embodies the local customs of its namesake place, integrating traditional ethnic elements. Some are rustic, some fresh, some passionate, yet none lose a sense of simple, modern design.

The entire house is equipped with smart home devices, with each room having an independent walk-in closet, sensor lights, a dressing room, smart bathtub, smart electric curtains, smart background music system, steam iron, smart humidifier, dry-wet separated bathroom, and thoughtful supplies. It truly feels like living in your own home—cozy and comfortable.

What impressed me most compared with hotels were the 'special bed' and the array of thoughtfully provided toiletries: disinfectant, disinfectant wipes, hand soap, imported facial cleanser, custom-made peach wood comb, brand-new bamboo fiber towels and bath towels, new linen slippers, and more. These considerate details made me feel the warmth of home. Honestly, I've stayed in many five-star hotels, but none has provided such complete and considerate toiletries.

I especially love the smart music system in the bedroom; soft music starts playing as soon as you enter, just like arriving home. Also, the custom-made, brand-new bamboo fiber towels, new linen slippers, and delicate peach wood comb—all three can be taken with you when you leave. All this truly reflects quality of life and a sense of belonging.

After a busy day, only sleep gives you a moment of true tranquility. Traditional hotels typically use plain white bedding, giving an impersonal feeling. But at Boxin Yun She, the bedding is the most high-end 120-thread-count Egyptian cotton set from Fuanna, custom-dyed in four colors for Boxin Yun She: dreamy purple, noble gold, romantic pink, and elegant grey. Depending on the room's design style and tone, different colored bedding is used.

Sleeping in a cozy master bedroom, lying on this special bed, you can feel the art in every stitch—symbolizing a persistent pursuit of quality and a steadfast commitment to the original heart, much like the soul-harboring home for every returning Boxin family member. Among the many master bedroom types, I have a special fondness for these few.

The Mufu Master Bedroom: 'In the north, the Forbidden City; in the south, Mufu.' Mufu is a splendid architectural masterpiece, the royal palace of the Mu chieftains in Lijiang. Just like this room, it features brightly colored Naxi decorations, exquisite carvings, and elegant arches, perfectly blending the freshness of nature with regal opulence. Staying here feels like traveling back to the Ming Dynasty and becoming a Mu chieftain.

The Shambhala Master Bedroom, meaning a utopian world. The room uses Tibetan ethnic totemic elements, flawlessly preserving natural ecology and traditional culture. It combines pure land, gorges, alpine lakes, and Tibetan customs into a mysterious, graceful whole. The fireplace design adds warmth, and the Tibetan-style round bed adds a touch of romance.

Looking up through the window, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain comes into view. This is a place close to heaven yet not far from the mundane world.

The Dayan Master Bedroom: Lijiang Old Town is also called Dayan Old Town. Its streets are built along hills and waterways, adorned with carved patterns and auspicious clouds, simple and elegant. Just as we see here, a vibrant water system, harmonious building clusters, grey bricks paired with white walls, old lattice doors as partitions, an intimate spatial environment, and a unique decorative style draw countless visitors.

Another must-visit spot in the guesthouse is the 'Sky Mirror' on the rooftop terrace garden—a favorite photo spot for many. Standing here, you seem closer to heaven, with blue sky and white clouds seemingly within reach.

Dressed in traditional costume or fashionable attire, stepping onto this 'Sky Mirror' and striking any pose yields stunning photos.

Lion Hill looms right behind. Below the emerald hills, shops and residences nestle in the old town. The magnificent panorama of Lijiang Old Town unfolds before your eyes. To the left is the bustling Sifang Street, to the right you can overlook the resplendent Mufu Palace, and looking north you can gaze at the majestic Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Facing this beautiful old town, the scene seems to silently narrate over eight hundred years of vicissitudes.

During the day, the meticulously designed Naxi-style courtyard scenery is utterly charming. At night, the courtyard transforms into another world, with breathtaking lighting that makes you linger.

I must also praise the butler service here—not only attentive but also heartwarmingly thoughtful. Every person you meet wears a warm smile and offers a sincere greeting as if you've come home, just like family! I have to say, this is truly the most heartwarming and stylish place I've ever stayed. It isn't just a guesthouse or a hotel; it's more like a warm harbor home.

I must admit, compared with cookie-cutter hotels, I prefer everything here. It's not a hotel, but the comfort surpasses five-star; it's not a hostel, but it carries a deeper sentiment.

Boxin Yun She is where the soul returns, a place for the heart to rest. Here, all moments are connected to the homecoming of the spirit. After traveling so far, where is the home for the heart? At Boxin, this is my home. Everything that exists here reflects a tranquil, far-reaching, and warm atmosphere of home.

After roaming through countless rivers and mountains, one ultimately needs a place for the soul to return. In Lijiang Old Town, I found such a resting place for my spirit. Staying here, I discovered new joys in life, felt the warmth of coming home, and gained a deeper understanding of life's value. Coming here is not an escape or a concealment, but a return to the true heart of living, and a return of the soul to its original state.

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