Yunnan | Meeting in Lijiang, a Classic Yunnan Tour Under a Serendipitous Sky

Yunnan has always been a top pick for domestic travellers — romantic vibes, enigmatic minority peoples, and a leisurely rhythm. Once the pandemic was under control, I opted for the classic 'Kunming–Dali–Lijiang' (KDL) route. First, prepare well — that’s the most important part of any trip. These days you can travel independently, self-drive, or go with a group to save hassle. This time, Zhuzhu went with a group tour.

(1) Yunnan has a plateau southwestern monsoon climate with big day–night temperature swings, so pack accordingly based on the local weather forecast. The UV rays are strong, so ladies especially should prepare sunscreen (sunglasses, sun hat, sunscreen, umbrella).

(2) When flying (or taking the train), bring valid ID such as ID card, military officer’s certificate, passport, etc. Children without an ID card should carry the original household registration booklet or a passport. If you lose your ID, get a temporary boarding certificate from the police station of your registered residence.

(3) Yunnan’s high altitude may trigger altitude sickness, so bring medicine and snacks like chocolate and beef jerky.

(4) Anyone entering Yunnan from elsewhere needs to scan a QR code to declare health status. Whether entering or leaving an airport (or train station) or scenic area, you must show the health code.

The plane landed at Kunming Changshui Airport. After picking up my luggage, I made my way to the notified meeting point and was taken to the hotel by the airport staff. The first day had no meals or attractions included; if you arrive early, explore the city on your own and sort out your own meals. The ground floor of the hotel had a rice noodle shop — I had my first Yunnan meal for just over 10 yuan.

Hotel | Trendy and clean, a budget hotel with simple decor

【Transport】 The hotel is 4 km from Guandu Ancient Town, 2 km from Century Golden Resources Shopping Centre, 22 km from Changshui International Airport, 3 km from Kunming International Convention and Exhibition Centre, and 5 km from Wanda Plaza.

【Facilities】 From the outside it’s ordinary, but inside it’s quite stylish — a grand lobby gives a high-end feel. Carpets line the corridors. Standard twin room with simple decor: compact but well-appointed, a practical desk, wall-mounted LCD TV, free Wi‑Fi, central air‑conditioning, and an en‑suite with separate shower.

【Service】 Only one key card provided; the room doesn’t need a card for power, but if you need the door opened, you’ll have to find a staff member.

【Dining】 Breakfast is offered. Plenty of dining options around the hotel, including a rice noodle shop on the ground floor.

Kunming Meiyin Hotel, 1689 Yulong Road, Guandu District, Kunming.

Scenic Spot | Capturing the beautiful 'Ashima' in the World Geopark, Shilin

【Transport】 78 km from Kunming, about 50 minutes via the Kunming–Shilin Expressway.

【Environment】 A 5A‑level scenic area, the Stone Forest has been designated a 'World Geopark' and 'World Natural Heritage' by UNESCO. Its fame is partly thanks to Long Yun, former KMT governor of Yunnan Province; he even inscribed the characters 'Stone Forest'. The main areas are: Stone Forest Scenic Area, Black Pine Crag (Heisongyan), Flying Dragon Waterfall, and Long Lake. The Greater Stone Forest features dense stone peaks, straight and bold, with the tallest independent pillar exceeding 40 m. Sights include 'Lotus Peak', 'Sword‑Peak Pond', 'Hanging by a Thread', 'So Narrow It Squeezes People', 'Elephant‑Standing Stone Terrace', 'Secluded Orchid Deep Valley', 'Phoenix Preening its Wings', and more. The 'Wangfeng Pavilion' is the best spot to admire the 'forest of stones'.

【Overall】 The Stone Forest is very busy, mostly with groups; stick close to your guide to avoid getting lost. From the car park it’s still 7 km to the scenic area — you’ll need to buy an electric cart ticket for ￥25. There are countless little paths inside, so don’t wander off. If you really get lost, you can use the SOS button, but it costs over 10,000 yuan — at your own expense!

Stone Forest Scenic Area, Shilin Town, Shilin Yi Autonomous County, Kunming.

Restaurant | Braised fish, roast duck, and of course Yunnan’s special steam‑pot chicken

【Transport】 Right near the Stone Forest, less than 10 minutes by car.

【Environment】 Outside the restaurant is a row of fruit stalls — various fruits ￥10 per portion. Inside, the ground floor sells tourist goods; dining is on the second floor. The restaurant is clean and bright, not too cramped, with decent spacing between tables.

【Service】 Group‑meal service — dishes come out super fast.

【Taste】 Don’t expect gourmet food from a group meal, but there’s braised fish, roast duck, and naturally Yunnan’s steam‑pot chicken.

【Overall】 My group mates were polite enough — no mad scramble for food. Downside: food wasn’t piping hot.

Yijia Shiwan (Yi Family Food Bay), near the first‑grade highway in western Kunming.

After Kunming we hit the expressway towards Dali, stopping in Chuxiong for a meal and an overnight stay. Why? To boost the local economy! The guide kept emphasising that one tourist can support 24 local jobs.

Restaurant | Yunnan‑style mushroom hotpot with chicken broth — light, nutritious, not greasy

【Transport】 On the way from Kunming to Dali, you stop at Chuxiong for a meal and a night’s stay, supposedly to help the local economy.

【Environment】 A restaurant with ethnic character; clean and bright, not cramped, decent spacing.

【Service】 At the entrance, aunties dance to welcome guests; once seated, people in ethnic costumes come to sing for entertainment.

【Taste】 One of the better meals in Yunnan: a special mushroom hotpot with chicken broth — light, nourishing, and not oily. The pot is filled with various mushrooms, very wholesome. The table is also loaded with vegetables, and you can add more noodles — just call 'Ah Hei Ge' to top up.

【Overall】 Best meal of the trip: hotpot served piping hot, unlimited veggies and noodles, and you can even sip local rice wine. Minor downside: no air‑conditioning, so it was a bit warm.

Rongfu Yuan, B5–6 Hexianggang, Yiren Waitan, Chuxiong.

Hotel | A big hotel hidden in a mountain town

【Transport】 The hotel is about 19.7 km as the crow flies from Chuxiong Station, or a 22.6 km drive from the city centre – roughly 28 minutes.

【Facilities】 Externally distinctive, but inside it’s quite plain, like a standard guesthouse. Carpeted corridors. Standard twin room with simple decor: small yet well‑designed, two armchairs by the window, a useful desk, wall‑mounted LCD TV, free Wi‑Fi, central air‑con, en‑suite with separate shower. The bedside table even provides 'national hygiene products'.

【Service】 Only one key card — you need to insert it for power.

【Dining】 Breakfast is provided, though the variety isn’t huge; enough to fill you up.

Chuxiong Hongqiang Hotel, opposite Lvhe Middle School on New Main Street, Lvhe Town, Chuxiong.

Scenic Spot | Cruising beautiful Erhai Lake, enjoying the breeze under blue skies

【Transport】 Take the bus to the VIP private yacht dock and board an Erhai 'private yacht' to enjoy the best scenery.

【Environment】 Arriving at Dali Town, the bus parks in the car park, then you walk through town towards the pier, absorbing local life along the way.

【Overall】 There are quite a few private docks here. Board at a proper cruise pier — ticket plus scenic fee ￥180 per person. Passenger numbers are limited, so no 'packed like sardines' and no chaotic noise. You can fully enjoy the beautiful Erhai, feeling the gentle breeze under the blue sky.

Caicun Dock, Dali Town Sea Tourism Company, Dali.

Scenic Spot | Take a lift to the top of 'Luoquan Pagoda' on Luoquan Peninsula for panoramic Cang‑Er views under blue skies

【Transport】 Head to the VIP private yacht dock and board an Erhai 'private yacht' for the best scenery.

【Environment】 The yacht docks at Luoquan Peninsula on Erhai’s eastern shore, facing Dali Ancient Town directly. The area evolved from the former Tianjing Temple and includes sights like Guanyin Pavilion, Taizi Pavilion, Baxian Tower, Tianjing Pavilion, Luoquan Pagoda, Luoquan Temple, and Stone Mule. In the late Nanzhao period it was a solemn Buddhist sanctuary by Erhai. During the Tang–Nanzhao wars, Nanzhao twice routed Tang troops, with Luoquan abbot playing a key role. The king then granted the eastern cliffs to the abbot, and from then on, the peninsula and its temples and pagodas were all named 'Luoquan', unchanged for over a thousand years.

【Overall】 With the 'private yacht', no crowds, no clamour — just pure sailing on Erhai. You can also explore the past glory of Luoquan Peninsula. For ￥10 per person you can take a lift to the top of Luoquan Pagoda for a full Cang‑Er panorama; for ￥80 per person you can try western Yunnan’s first 600‑m‑long water slide, the 'Alpine Drift'.

Luoquan Peninsula Tourist Area, Huanhai Road, Haidong Town, Dali.

Scenic Spot | Dali Ancient Town bears traces of history

【Transport】 Park in the ancient town car park, then buy a sightseeing cart ticket (￥35 per person) to the city gate. Only those carts are allowed inside; cars park outside.

【Environment】 Dali Ancient Town is also known as Yeyu City, Forbidden City, and Zhonghe Town. Its history goes back to Tang times when Nanzhao king Geluofeng built Yangjumei City. The present town was founded in the 15th year of Ming Hongwu. Outside runs a moat; city walls surround it, with gates and towers at east, west, south, and north, plus corner towers. The walls were demolished after 1949; in 1982 the south gate was rebuilt, and the characters for 'Dali' are from Guo Moruo’s calligraphy.

【Overall】 The streets form a chessboard; nowadays they’re mostly tourist zones full of souvenir shops. If you wander into the quieter local residential side, you might discover something different. Take your time strolling — no rush.

Dali Ancient Town, No. 42 Yita Road, Dali.

Scenic Spot | The most beautiful thing is the transparent chapel, merging with earth and sky — just stunning

【Transport】 The bus takes you to the jeep base, then you switch to a jeep — four people per jeep.

【Environment】 At the garden entrance, the jeeps line up for photos — each family gets one free. Then you enter an Insta‑worthy spot: waters meet the sky ahead, flowers bloom through four seasons behind. The lush floral seas and the subtle fragrance all around lift your spirits.

【Overall】 Farmland on both sides has been turned into various gardens. Besides flowers, there are photo props scattered among the blooms. The most beautiful is the transparent chapel, blending into the landscape — simply gorgeous.

Taoran Tianhei (Taoran Pastoral Community), south of Yinxian Creek, Fengbei South Line, Yinqiao Town, Dali.

Restaurant | Braised fish, platters, and of course Yunnan’s steam‑pot chicken

【Transport】 After the garden photos, it’s just a short distance — a roadside restaurant.

【Environment】 Outside the restaurant, stalls sell various snacks. Inside, clean and bright, not cramped, decent spacing; no air‑con.

【Service】 Group‑meal service — dishes arrive super fast.

【Taste】 Group meals aren’t gourmet, but there’s braised fish, roast duck, and steam‑pot chicken.

【Overall】 Fellow diners were civilised, no grabbing. Downside: the food wasn’t very hot.

Hotel | A boutique culture hotel themed on 'Dali’s Healthy Lifestyle'

【Transport】 The hotel is on the south side of Dafeng Road in the Manjiang area of Dali Economic Development Zone, next to the airport trunk road, 3 km from the railway station.

【Facilities】 A modern Chinese‑style design, promoting 'leisure, inner peace, slow living' — a thematic cultural boutique hotel. Room types include standard, deluxe, Japanese‑style compact, family, hot‑spring, mahjong, and family suites. The lobby feels grand and upscale. Carpeted corridors, standard twin room with simple decor; compact but well‑thought‑out, carpeted, a couch by the window, a desk but no chair — I called reception and they brought one up. Wall‑mounted LCD TV, free Wi‑Fi, central air‑con, en‑suite with separate shower.

【Service】 Only one key card; insert for power. Service attitude good.

【Dining】 Breakfast is provided in the upstairs restaurant — enough to fill you.

Yunrui Hotel (Dali Oriental Branch), south side of Dafeng Road, Manjiang Area, Dali Development Zone.

On the way from Dali to Lijiang, over lunch, we changed guides — in Lijiang, you must have a local guide.

Scenic Spot | Step into a sea of flowers at Lashi Lake, where water meets sky

【Transport】 10 km west of Lijiang city, 'Lashi Lake Wetland Park'.

【Environment】 The largest plateau lake in the Lijiang area and Yunnan’s first wetland nature reserve. 'Lashi' is an old Naxi transliteration — 'La' means wilderness, 'Shi' means new, so 'new wilderness'. Each year around 30,000 water birds winter here. Mountains and water reflect each other, surrounded by lush greenery — truly beautiful.

【Overall】 This is a self‑pay activity; if you don’t pay, you just wait until others finish. The package includes a rose garden, bamboo raft ride, and horse riding — the garden and boating are in the same place. The roses weren’t yet at their peak when I went. There’s a sky‑mirror‑style photo spot by the lake that’s good for a few snaps.

Lashi Lake Huahuase Rose Manor, No. 6 Duan, Shuangshi Section, Xinhua Street, Lijiang.

Scenic Spot | A leisurely walk along country lanes, remounting the ancient Tea Horse Road

【Transport】 After the Rose Manor, a car takes you to the horse ranch.

【Environment】 The ranch has many horses — Yunnan’s short‑legged 'Dian ma', historically renowned for stamina on the Tea Horse Road. Dian horses are steady and enduring, suited to rugged mountain trails. Three horses are tethered together, led by a 'Pang Jin Ge' (local groom). They amble along country lanes, up into the hills, retracing the old Tea Horse Road.

【Overall】 Self‑pay package ￥200/person: garden + horse ride. Rain ponchos are provided — the ride goes on even in rain. There’s a rest stop at the hilltop where you can buy corn for 10 yuan to feed the horses.

Meili Junliang Horse Ranch, Huahuase Rose Manor, Lashi Lake, Lijiang.

Scenic Spot | The bar street in Lijiang Ancient Town is probably the hottest spot at night

【Transport】 Lijiang Ancient Town has no city wall or gates; it’s sprawling.

【Environment】 Naxi murals, the big waterwheel, Sifang Street — all symbols of the old town. Little bridges, flowing streams, and cosy homes; a dazzling array of ethnic crafts; soak up Naxi customs and sample the famous bar street. Stroll the cobbled lanes where every household has a stream flowing by the door and willows sway, evoking the feel of Jiangnan south of the Yangtze. In the central square, non‑stop singing and dancing remind you to slow down and relax.

【Overall】 Bar street is the place to be at night — just drop in for a drink and taste local culture. During the pandemic, there’s a set closing time, so they can’t stay open too late.

Performance | A panoramic showcase of Lijiang’s unique and profound ethnic culture

【Transport】 Opposite Red Sun Square. Buses can’t stop there; we got off around the corner and walked. Lots of taxis outside, but they only quote fixed prices, so I recommend using Didi — drivers accept orders quickly.

【Environment】 'Lishui Jinsha' is a grand song‑and‑dance show presented as a dance‑poem, gathering the extraordinary cultural atmosphere bred by Lijiang’s unique mountains and waters, and the timeless treasures of the ancient Naxi kingdom. It selects the most representative cultural images of Lijiang’s ethnic groups, unfolding in acts of Water, Mountain, and Emotion, displaying the region’s rich and vast ethnic culture.

【Overall】 Included in the tour (valued at ￥260/person). The performance is good, with a large cast, but the one‑hour show has no narration — it’s just continuous dancing on stage.

Lishui Jinsha Performance, opposite Red Sun Square.

Restaurant | Sizzling yak hotpot — utterly irresistible

【Transport】 A large empty plot outside makes parking easy.

【Environment】 Clean and bright, not cramped, decent spacing, no air‑con.

【Service】 Group‑meal service — dishes fly out.

【Taste】 Yak meat, super delicious. After finishing the yak, you can add seasonal vegetables that soak up the broth — also tasty.

【Overall】 The second satisfying meal of the Yunnan trip. The temperature was comfortable, so no air‑con was needed.

Naxi Fengqing Theme Restaurant, Shangduan Section 119, Zhaihou Street.

Hotel | The only plus: close to Lijiang Ancient Town

【Transport】 Tucked away in a residential area; you’d probably struggle to find it without navigation.

【Facilities】 Called a 'hotel' but really just a basic guesthouse, a bit dated. Standard twin room, simple decor, compact but fine, two armchairs by the window, a practical desk, wall‑mounted LCD TV, free Wi‑Fi, split air‑con, but no shower cubicle — water splashes everywhere.

【Service】 Only one key card; insert for power.

【Dining】 Breakfast offered, not much variety but enough.

Westin Hotel, No. 54 Zhaihou Upper Village, Xi’an Street.

Scenic Spot | Walk the wooden boardwalk up to the current reachable altitude of 4,680 m on the snow mountain

【Transport】 Take the 'Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Scenic Area' shuttle from Lijiang city, about 35 km north of the ancient town, directly to the scenic area.

【Environment】 A 5A‑level scenic spot, the highlight is the Glacier Park at the summit. The cable car starts at 3,356 m and goes to the upper station at 4,506 m, just below the main peak Shanzidou. The cableway is 2,914 m long with a vertical rise of 1,150 m — one of China’s highest tourist cableways.

【Overall】 The altitude is very high — be mindful of altitude sickness. It’s best to buy a portable oxygen canister beforehand, though they’re pricey at 60 yuan each. There are queues for the cable car; each cabin seats eight. About 10 minutes of swaying brings you to the upper station at 4,506 m. Once you acclimatise, you can walk the wooden boardwalk to the current highest point at 4,680 m. Luck plays a big part up here — sometimes rain, sometimes sun. When I went, it was raining and the whole mountain was shrouded in fog.

Glacier Park, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain National Scenic Area.

Scenic Spot | Dreamlike Blue Moon Valley, its colours shifting with the sunlight

【Transport】 Take the 'Jade Dragon Snow Mountain' shuttle from Lijiang city, about 35 km north of the ancient town.

【Environment】 After visiting Glacier Park, take the eco‑bus to Blue Moon Valley. Water from the snow mountain flows down, gathering into streams and brooks, eventually forming a clear, sweet river in the deep valley upstream. The riverbed is white limestone, giving the water a white sheen, hence the name 'White Water River'. Minerals on the surface create enchanting colours. Blocked by mountains, the river forms four large pools: 'Jade Liquid' Lake, 'Mirror Pool' Lake, 'Blue Moon' Lake, and 'Listening to the Waves' Lake.

【Overall】 I bought a 50‑yuan electric cart ticket — you ride part of the way, then walk the rest in three sections. Following the boardwalk, stopping for photos, the scenery is superb.

Blue Moon Valley, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain National Scenic Area.

Scenic Spot | Named after the mountain behind the village, meaning 'Village Beneath the High Peak'

【Transport】 Opposite Shuhe Ancient Town there’s a large car park.

【Environment】 One of the earliest settlements of the Naxi ancestors in the Lijiang basin; a well‑preserved key market town on the Tea Horse Road and a living fossil of the Naxi transition from farming to commerce. Shuhe, called 'Shaowu' in Naxi, gets its name from the treasure‑shaped mountain behind the village — 'high peak village'.

【Overall】 No need to elaborate: today it’s a hub of inns, restaurants, cafés, ethnic clothing, etc. During the pandemic, few tourists, many shops closed. Time was tight, so I could only skim through; couldn’t delve into local culture.

Shuhe Ancient Town, near Chama Road.

Restaurant | Famous for Xiangshan cured ribs and chicken hotpot, but group meals don’t include those

【Transport】 Near the back gate of Xiangshan Market, next to Qinma Hotpot.

【Environment】 Clean, bright, not cramped, decent spacing, no air‑con.

【Service】 Group‑meal service — dishes come quick.

【Taste】 Their specialities are cured ribs hotpot and chicken hotpot, but group meals don’t have them; instead, fried potatoes, pork ribs with radish, papaya pork, etc.

【Overall】 Group members were well‑mannered, no fighting over food. Downside: food not hot enough. After filling up, we headed to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

Yixianglou Restaurant (Huama Street flagship), corner of Beijiao Transit Station, Huama Street.

After visiting the last stop, Shuhe Ancient Town, we went to a restaurant for a meal. The guide said goodbye, and the bus took us directly to Lijiang Railway Station. We took a sleeper train back to Kunming; driving would take over eight hours, so the train is much more comfortable. The train left at 22:30 — plenty of time. Some people booked a short‑stay room at a nearby hotel, others wandered to a food street. Once on board, I discovered the carriage had two levels, with two bunks per level — my first time on such a train! Rumble‑clatter through the night, arriving at 9:00 the next morning. At the station, a transfer person took us for breakfast, then to a 'tourist distribution centre', and finally to the airport according to each person’s departure time.

Restaurant | Holding a big bowl as you add seasonings and noodles from a line

【Transport】 Sanye Food City near Kunming Railway Station.

【Environment】 Clean, bright, no air‑con. Pay first, then queue. You get a huge bowl of broth with meat; then you move along, adding mint leaves, chopped scallions, little red chillies, and finally your choice of rice noodles. Mix according to your taste.

【Service】 Fully self‑service. Staff only handle payment and clearing bowls.

【Taste】 Tasty because you customise it to your own preference. Unlimited noodles — eat until you’re full; takeaway limited to three bowls.

【Overall】 The transfer team brought us here straight from the station to fill up. This brand is said to be quite authentic locally.

Tuanshan Xiaohuangniu Rice Noodles (Kunming Station Branch), near Kunming Railway Station.

Day 1: Fly to Kunming, airport pickup.

Day 2: Kunming hotel – Shilin Yi Autonomous County – lunch – Pu’er tea culture museum (Longrun Tea) – Chuxiong to enjoy Yunnan special wild‑mushroom hotpot – check in at a town hotel.

Day 3: Chuxiong hotel – Erhai Luoquan Peninsula – lunch – Jeep Erhai flower‑field tour (free group photo) – Dali Ancient Town – overnight in Dali.

Day 4: Dali hotel – Jade & jewellery hall – Silverware shop with Bai three‑course tea and song‑and‑dance show – Lashi Lake Rose Manor (boat ride & tea‑horse road horse ride) – Lijiang dinner – Lijiang Ancient Town – Lishui Jinsha show.

Day 5: Lijiang hotel – Yellow Dragon Jade National Treasure Hall – lunch – Jade Dragon Snow Mountain – Blue Moon Valley – Shuhe Ancient Town – sleeper train at station.

Day 6: 9:30 Kunming breakfast – 'One Mobile Cloud Gathering' Yunnan specialty shopping point – airport drop‑off.

The itinerary includes a Pu’er tea shop on the afternoon of Day 2, a Yunnan silverware and jade shop on the morning of Day 4, and a Yellow Dragon Jade shop on the morning of Day 5. All these are legal, licensed shops; purchases come with formal receipts. Goods are eligible for a 30‑day unconditional return/replacement as long as they are in perfect condition.

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