Lijiang: A Peaceful Haven Away from the Hustle and Bustle, So Enchanting

I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve sat on a flight to Lijiang. I’m unmistakably from Guangdong, yet I harbor a crazy love for Yunnan. Yunnan trips several times a year, from the romantic Dali with its wind, flowers, snow, and moon to the wild, romantic Lijiang; from the snows of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain to the sunrise over Meili Snow Mountain; from the Tibetan character of Shangri-La to the Dai culture of Xishuangbanna—every facet of Yunnan makes my heart flutter.

This trip to Lijiang was decided on a whim. The moment I booked the flight, my heart was still brimming with excitement and anticipation. Skipping those crowded must-see spots, I just wanted to find Lijiang’s quietest, most undisturbed mode.

【Lijiang Ancient Town】 I remember when I first started university and fell in love with traveling, the first stop I chose was Lijiang. After all, as a seasoned pseudo-artistic youth, I’ve heard countless poignant or romantic legends about Lijiang Ancient Town.

Of course, over the years, what keeps drawing me back time and again, flying thousands of miles to check in regularly, isn’t those romantic encounters or the nightly revelry on bar street. It’s the people with stories hidden along the flagstone paths, and this Naxi ethnic group with its own rich narrative.

There are many entrances to the ancient town; the largest is the one with the Big Waterwheel. It’s always packed with tourists taking photos. Behind the waterwheel is a white wall with gray tiles, bearing large characters: “World Cultural Heritage – Lijiang Ancient Town.”

Despite Lijiang’s heavy commercialization and harsh criticism over time, my love for this ancient town hasn’t changed. I love its early-morning quiet and its nighttime buzz. The town feels vast, often like a maze. I’ve wandered countless times, yet each visit reveals new alleys, paths I haven’t walked, and scenes I haven’t encountered.

Inside Lijiang Ancient Town, we stayed at the Lijiang Flower Field Moon Lodge, recommended by a friend. It was still in its soft-opening phase when we arrived. The entrance led to a public lounge, spacious and bright, with a large wall painted by a specially invited artist. The dominant green color gave a natural feel, matched with wooden tables and chairs by the window—simple, elegant, and cozy. I really wanted to curl up there with tea and a book, lazily staying put. The front desk lady warmly invited us for tea and then showed us to our room.

I stayed in a round bed room, most distinctive for its walls paved with large white pebbles, looking like tiny bubbles from afar. The bathroom continued the artist’s nature-themed mural from the lobby, every stroke lively, fresh, and cheerful.

Since there weren’t many guests, the lady showed us other rooms. On the top third floor, they’d created two “bathtub movie rooms”—as the name suggests, you can soak in a tub while watching a film. Just the thought felt wonderful. They were still in final decoration; next time I can stay there!

Oh, don’t mind the green curtains—they were testing which color works best. They’d just switched to green, found it unsuitable, and were picking new colors. Look forward to it!

【Lashihai Wetland Park】 About a dozen kilometers outside Lijiang lies Lashihai Wetland Park, a place even tour groups rarely take you. Guides might only mention that you can ride horses, row boats, and visit the Dongba script museum, but they forget to tell you how beautiful the wetlands are.

I’ve always had an inexplicable obsession with “wetlands.” Perhaps I grew tired of boundless clear seas and fell in love with the somewhat messy beauty of wetlands. You can stroll through the wetland park on foot, or rent a bike or e-scooter. In Lijiang’s off-season, plus this place being far less known than Dayan Ancient Town, the wetland park felt exceptionally tranquil. It seemed like an independent little realm, not part of this bustling world.

Occasionally, a boatman rowed slowly, clearing debris from the water, silent as a still oil painting.

Every spring, the warm climate marks the season for Siberian migratory birds to return home. You can often see flock after flock of migratory birds traveling together over the highland lakes.

Thanks to Yunnan’s year-round spring-like climate, this is a favorite habitat for hundreds of bird species. Consequently, the wetland park has a dedicated museum showcasing all kinds of bird specimens, large and small.

As I circled the wetland park, I’d often spot one or two abandoned boats stuck at the wetland’s edge. Too long unused, they were caked with mud, but with their artistic shape set against the wetland backdrop, they’re a photographer’s dream for stunning shots.

We got back to the ancient town from Lashihai around 3:30 PM. With time to spare, we wandered around. Looking up at the sky and taking a light breath, I felt the air after a heavy rain was even fresher. Strolling the streets, I was suddenly drawn to a spot and stopped near Guankou (the Official Gate). At first glance, it was a tea shop with a particularly interesting name.

They say first impressions are most memorable, and this place truly amazed me! Entering, I saw a huge illustration on the opposite wall, titled “3200,” depicting a giant ancient tea tree. Above it, shark-headed planes circled, flying through mountains and forests with great momentum. Tea farmers harvested and processed leaves, harmoniously mingling with Flying Tigers soldiers—it felt so vivid.

The right side of the ground floor was the sales area, with goods neatly arranged and charming decorative touches.

The whole ground floor had a warm color palette, soft lighting covering everything, highlighting the subtle beauty of the products. After staying a moment, I captured quiet corners on camera: a cartoon IP holding a rose, hanging Arabian-style lamps, colorful floral decorations—each little embellishment added happiness and charm to this warm space.

For a visual person like me, a pleasing environment is one reason to stay. The moment I stepped into the second floor of 3200, my eyes were captivated. Warm sunlight streamed through windows, bathing everything in bright wood tones. The ceiling was draped with layered colorful gauze curtains, full of Lijiang’s local vintage charm. The air was filled with the refreshing scent of tea, permeating every nook.

The sofa area, under dim lighting, created an atmosphere with a distinct flavor. As a lover of quiet, I’d happily lie on that large sofa for an entire afternoon, without ever feeling bored or listless.

The window-side lounge was tranquil yet cozy. A few wooden armchairs, with soft cushions adding comfort, let you relax your waist and neck. Slightly swaying pendant lights served as a backdrop to the beautiful view outside. You could feel the ancient town’s cool breeze, watch people passing by in varied attire, and just observe, with a serene heart.

Of course, the Original Hump Selection isn’t just about the original flavor; it also includes products blended with jasmine, rose, small tangerines, or lemon, adding different sensory delights to the original pure fragrance. More importantly, compared to regular black tea, this ancient tree black tea from the birthplace of the 3200-year-old tea tree contains no impurities—healthy and nourishing, truly a top pick for daily drinking.

The cutest and most compact item is the product named “Hump Route.” Using a conical bag, it vividly conveys the towering, perilous hump and pays tribute to the pilots. A box contains seven tea bags, so you can enjoy a different flavor each day of the week~ Though the conical tea bag still didn’t fully win me over, in the end I couldn’t resist buying a Flying Tigers commemorative tea book box set to take home as gifts for family and friends~

I remember my first visit to Shuhe Ancient Town was six years ago, during summer break and Yunnan’s rainy season. That stormy night, we took a bus from Dayan Ancient Town but got off at the wrong stop and had to walk over twenty minutes in pouring rain. Once inside Shuhe, we quickly ducked into any shop serving drinks. The owner kindly poured us hot tea, let us shelter inside, and helped call our host to pick us up. Back then, Shuhe didn’t have many people, nor so many inns, restaurants, bars, and souvenir shops. It was quiet, with small bridges and flowing streams, playing the then-popular song “Tick Tock.” Too long ago, I have no deeper memories, but thinking about it now brings a very warm feeling.

Later, every trip to Lijiang was rushed, and I didn’t step into Shuhe again. This time, with a pure holiday mindset, I returned with a friend. It was much busier, more bustling, and every alley triggered a desperate search for old memories.

We spent two days in Shuhe, dining at a highly recommended spot online by fellow travelers, called “Small Pot Rice.” It was super satisfying, a real surprise. The menu was great, food excellent, ambiance lovely, service spot-on—always left me content. After dinner, we strolled to Jiuding Dragon Pool. In early July, a hint of autumn had already tinged some green leaves red; summer again, my favorite season.

A small, exquisite courtyard, paved with white pebbles, a path winding through the middle, flanked by all kinds of succulents. The owners, a couple, sat in the tea room, leisurely sipping tea and chatting. July in Yunnan hadn’t fully shaken off the rainy season’s nuisance; rain outside fell and vanished, returned and retreated, the air thick with laziness.

【Postscript】 In recent years, I’ve visited Lijiang many times annually, experiencing every season. Every evening there, I’d stroll in the ancient town, carrying our scattered memories. Passing small bridges and flowing water, we tried every rice noodle shop along the road. A claypot rice noodle and a stir-fried rice noodle became our staple, followed by a bag of sugar-roasted chestnuts to take back. Each time, tourists flooded in; let them see the sights—I just wanted to see you.

Tour index: 1. Lijiang Ancient Town 2. Lashihai 3. Lijiang Ancient Town 4. Shuhe Ancient Town

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