July 2020: 8-Day 7-Night Family Independent Trip to the Colorful South of the Clouds—Dali, Lijiang, and Lugu Lake

📍 Lijiang · 👁 7808 reads · ❤️ 51 likes

Colorful South of the Clouds, the direction of my heart;

Peacocks fly away, memories linger;

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain gleams with silver light;

Beautiful Lijiang, people on the road;

Colorful South of the Clouds, the place to return;

Fragrant past, drifting with the wind;

By the Butterfly Spring, songs flow;

By the shores of Lugu Lake, the heart still ripples.

Whenever this melodious song plays, my wife, daughter, and I cast our eyes toward the beautiful Yunnan. From July 3rd to 10th, over eight days, we measured Dali, Lijiang, and Lugu Lake with our wheels and footsteps, appreciating Dali's wind, flowers, snow, and moon; climbing Lijiang's Jade Dragon Snow Mountain; driving around Lugu Lake; seeking the colorful clouds flying in the south of the clouds, the peacock dance of the peacock homeland.

During the journey, my wife, with a photographer's eye, captured the natural scenery and historical culture of the trip, recording tranquil moments of our family. In guesthouses by Erhai Lake, in Shuhe Ancient Town, and by Lugu Lake, our 10-year-old daughter, with her own brush, tried to depict the great beauty of Yunnan in her eyes, completing "The Daughter's Chapter of the Colorful South of the Clouds." Back in Wuhan, I sorted through the photos and organized the travel diary, completing "The Father's Chapter of the Colorful South of the Clouds."

The Daughter's Chapter of the Colorful South of the Clouds (Author: Diandian, 10 years old)

Wind, flowers, snow, moon—these are the best features of Dali: the wind of Xiaguan, the flowers of Shangguan, the snow of Cangshan Mountain, the moon over Erhai Lake.

My parents and I flew to Dali and drove to Sea Sky Love.

This guesthouse, both its exterior and interior, is very distinctive. Entering the room, what attracted me most was the cozy little terrace: a round table with two chairs, very intimate; surrounding the table and chairs is a small pond with about ten red goldfish swimming around, very special. The railing is a piece of glass, quite low. Looking out toward Erhai Lake, the sea is blue, the azure sky dotted with white clouds. Looking to the sides, the majestic Cangshan Mountain surrounds Erhai Lake like a barrier. It's truly magnificent!

[From the hotel room terrace looking toward Erhai Lake]

[The room's little terrace, fish darting in shallow water]

Then we had dinner at a restaurant called Prince Duan in Dali Ancient Town. The interior design is unique: calligraphy paintings and brush writings on the walls, a guzheng placed at the stairs, very elegant.

[The guzheng at Prince Duan's restaurant]

The next morning, we started our self-driving tour around Erhai Lake.

Driving around Erhai Lake, we saw all kinds of scenery, which was truly amazing. As one might say:

Not having seen the wind of Xiaguan, but seeing the flowers of Shangguan.

Now the snow of Cangshan is before me, at night I'll admire the moon over Erhai.

Driving along the road, we arrived at the foot of Cangshan Mountain. What a sight:

The wind of Xiaguan whistles, the flowers of Shangguan smile.

Distant Cangshan is lush green, nearby Erhai water is clear.

On the road circling Erhai Lake, we entered the Butterfly Spring scenic area. At the entrance, there are five dragon heads, the middle one largest, the two beside it medium-sized, and the two outermost smallest. Each spouts a clear spring. Walking up the path, there's a pool called "Butterfly Spring." The water is emerald green, like a jade lying quietly there. A tall tree stands in the spring, its trunk and roots clearly visible. Behold:

Butterfly Spring water green, tree roots all clear.

Dragon heads spout clear spring, washing hands brings luck.

After the rain cleared, we continued driving around Erhai Lake. Past Shuanglang Town, we reached the highest point on the east line. There were various photo props: a transparent "Sky Chair"; a "Sky Ring" suspended in the air; a "Sky Ladder" leading to the sky; a "Sky Mirror" reflecting the sky; and a tilted square "Sky Frame."

I used every photo prop: sitting on the Sky Chair, legs propped up, hair hanging down, hands gripping the frame; sitting on the Sky Ring, legs dangling naturally, hands on the ring, gazing into the distance; climbing the Sky Ladder, sitting at the edge, legs dangling, staring at the sky; standing on the Sky Mirror, I did various difficult poses: front splits, side splits, shoulder stand with splits, side leg lift, back leg lift; entering the Sky Frame, I held the long side of the rectangle with both hands, right foot in front, left foot behind pressing the short side, leaning back slightly. The Sky Frame is tilted, so it looks artistic in photos.

[Sky Mirror]

[Sky Frame]

[Sky Chair]

[Sky Ladder]

As dusk fell, we returned to our guesthouse to rest. Sitting on the little terrace, listening to the sea breeze, eating barbecue, so relaxing!

[Sea Sky Love, my favorite little terrace]

Before leaving Dali, we drove to the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple. Behind the pagodas are several temple halls, and I hurriedly glanced at the Buddha statues.

Then we went to the lake in front of the Three Pagodas, where the reflection of the pagodas appears in the water. We rented a Bai ethnic costume by the lake. Look how it was:

High hat with a white ring, red flowers on the hat dazzling.

Tassels on the hat brim drape over the shoulders, a golden glow beneath the hat.

Red collar with golden edges gleaming, red flowers on the clothes welcoming spring.

White sleeves, red dress so elegant, golden trim on sleeves a must.

Golden-edged red gauze fluttering, golden-red beads sewn on sleeves.

Dress hem with a golden band, golden stripes embroidered on the clothes.

Red base makes it brighter, blue-red-purple-green little jewels.

White skirt so beautiful, red and yellow borders sparkling.

Dali is so beautiful, but eventually we had to leave. Today, I'm heading to Lijiang. Dali! I will come again!

—Diandian, started writing on July 3, 2020 by Erhai Lake in Dali, completed on July 5 in Shuhe Ancient Town, Lijiang.

[In front of the Three Pagodas, me wearing ethnic clothes]

At noon, my parents and I drove from Dali Ancient Town to Lijiang. Not far from Lijiang, at Lashi Lake, there are many horse farms. The Youyou Ancient Road Horse Farm is the most distinctive. Riding a horse on the ancient Tea Horse Road in the mountains is unforgettable: the groom led three horses, one black and two brown, all sturdy. The three of us stepped into the stirrups, mounted the saddles, and set off with the clip-clop of hooves.

Riding on the winding mountain path, I admired the scenery. The trees nearby were lush, the mountains in the distance majestic. Truly:

Riding on the mountain path, trees green and lush.

Distant mountains grand, white clouds drifting at the horizon.

On horseback, I felt the mountain breeze, very comfortable.

The groom kindly told us riding techniques, making my riding more graceful and free. Uphill, lean forward; downhill, lean back. Man and horse as one, so joyful! Riding on the ancient Tea Horse Road, accompanied by the tinkling of horse bells, my thoughts drifted to the farther reaches of the Tea Horse Road...

[Tea Horse Road]

After riding, we went to the Pink Capital at Youyou Ancient Road Horse Farm, where everything was pink. Taking photos there, a bit distinctive, but not my cup of tea.

[Pink Empire]

Leaving Youyou Ancient Road, we rushed to Shuhe Ancient Town and checked into Lisi Man guesthouse. This guesthouse is unique: small bridges, flowing water, homes by the gate; inside the courtyard, spring flowers and autumn fruits; the rooms are antique in style.

[Room balcony at Lisi Man Inn (Lijiang Art Club) in Shuhe Ancient Town]

The next day, we drove to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain scenic area. Along the way, we could clearly see the snow-capped peaks soaring into the clouds, a magnificent sight!

Inside the scenic area, we took a shuttle bus to the lower station of the cable car to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. We put on our jackets and entered the cable car. As we ascended, the scenery changed from lush forest to everlasting snow—truly magical! From the upper station at 4,506 meters, I continued climbing along the boardwalk. At first, I could only see the snow mountain in mist and a bit of snow. Higher up, the wind grew stronger; I quickly put on my hat to shield from the wind. We climbed against the wind, and the snow increased—those were glaciers that never melt. The whole mountain was white, so refreshing! I finally reached the highest viewing platform at 4,680 meters. Though breathless, I felt a great sense of achievement! Looking down from the top, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain was spectacular! See how it was:

The boardwalk on the snow mountain is steep, both sides revealing scenery.

Snow piled on the mountain, mist and clouds winding around.

[Jade Dragon Snow Mountain cable car]

[Jade Dragon looming and vanishing]

[Commemorate the climb]

[On the 4,680m highest viewing platform]

We were so excited that we stripped down to short sleeves in the strong wind and took a photo in front of the sign reading "4680 meters."

After descending, we had lunch at KFC, then headed to the highest open-air theater in altitude—Impression Lijiang live performance theater.

Entering the theater, it was spectacular:

A big red wall in front, a large stage below.

Looking up, blue sky; turning around, snow-capped peaks.

The "Impression Lijiang" show lasted an hour and left me stunned. As the poem goes:

People of various ethnic groups gather together, Han, Zhuang, Naxi,

Miao, Tibetan, and Yi, many dances on one stage.

Horsemen gallop across the red wall, black horses, brown horses, all kinds of horses.

Running on the red wall so dashing, ethnic groups come to dance.

Drinking, singing, beating drums, performing on stage is hard work.

Each performance is wonderful, shining brilliance on the stage!

[Impression Lijiang]

After the show, we took a scenic bus to Blue Moon Valley.

As soon as we arrived, a blue lake greeted my eyes. What a sight—Blue Moon Lake ripples like jade! Getting closer, the water is incredibly clear! This beautiful lake comes from the White Water River, named so because on rainy days, the water turns milky white. This is because the lakebed has something like lime powder; when it rains, the powder disperses, making the whole lake appear milky.

Leaving Blue Moon Valley, we returned to the ancient town and ate at a restaurant called Xiao Guo Fan. We sat by the window with a view, overlooking the town's streets, small rivers, and willows—so enchanting. After dinner, I also walked around Shuhe Ancient Town, with a gentle breeze and the setting sun, very comfortable! We bought a set of ethnic clothing there. How beautiful:

Red and yellow collar elegant, a row of slanting buttons below.

Small black patches as base, embroidered red flowers most dazzling.

Magenta half-sleeves, red flowers on a blue background.

Two golden lines above and below the red flowers, black base below.

Several red flowers embroidered on the sleeve edge, green leaves make it more beautiful.

Purple flowers and green leaves on the clothes, a small pink border beside.

Magenta mini skirt, blocks of green, yellow, red, orange.

Green-purple-yellow-green-green-purple matched, five little pom-poms on each strip.

The bells under the pom-poms jingle, ding-dong ding-dong ding-ding-dong.

Blue hem to finish, embroidered red flowers so pretty!

On the third morning, the first ray of sunlight shone on the ancient town. On the quiet flagstone road walked a Wuhan girl in ethnic clothing. Reluctantly, she bid farewell to the town, saying goodbye to Lijiang...

—Diandian, started writing on July 5, 2020 in Shuhe Ancient Town, Lijiang, completed on July 7 by Lugu Lake.

[Shuhe Ancient Town in the early morning]

My parents and I drove from Lijiang to Lugu Lake. The road was winding through the mountains, passing the world-famous Jinsha River, the upper reaches of China's Yangtze River, flowing through Sichuan, Tibet, and Yunnan provinces, with a basin area of 502,000 square kilometers. Looking at the yellow waves of the Jinsha River, I seemed to see the spectacular scene of the Central Red Army crossing the Jinsha River in 1953.

Enjoying the magnificent scenery and listening to the wind in my ears, before I knew it, we arrived at Lugu Lake scenic area. As soon as we entered, looking down from the mountain, a vast sparkling lake came into view. If my parents hadn't said we needed to check in at the hotel first, I would have run down to the lakeside to admire its beauty. Fortunately, we quickly checked in at "Shilily Pan Honey Moon Xiaozhu Mosuo," then immediately went to Luoshui Pier. Walking to the lake, the water was crystal clear. Then we bought tickets and boarded a boat.

The boatman started rowing, and we set sail. Near the shore, the water was so clear you could see the stones beneath. Sitting at the bow, gazing far, mountains surrounded Lugu Lake, with reflections of blue sky, white clouds, and the mountains. Looking down at the lake water, it was a jade green—when shallow, emerald; when deep, dark green.

In the middle of the lake, we circled around Libu Island. On the west side, the island looked like a big crocodile. Then on the north side, to the left, the mountains in Sichuan appeared like a turtle. After the circuit, we returned to Luoshui Pier.

[On the pig trough boat]

Walking along the lake, we arrived at a restaurant called "Mosuo Flame Barbecue" for dinner. Here we could grill our own food. The owner kindly taught us grilling tips, making our barbecue more delicious: tofu needs more time, grilled until one side sizzles with oil before flipping; pork belly should be grilled until both sides are slightly golden; Mosuo grilled meat should be red and crispy. What impressed me most was grilling eggplant: first make a light cut on the eggplant, then peel open the skin to reveal the yellow flesh, place it on the grill, and add toppings. After a while, it's ready to eat.

After barbecue, we returned to our guesthouse to rest.

The next morning, we began our lake circuit. Starting from Daluoshui Village, the scenery along the way was beautiful, including Yunnan's Lige Peninsula, Sichuan's Lover's Beach, the Grass Sea, etc. What impressed me most were Lover's Beach and the Grass Sea.

My mom and I climbed onto the left rear tire, grabbed the roof, sat on it, and struck a pretty pose. Looking out at the lake from the car roof was stunning!

Continuing on, we reached the Grass Sea. It wasn't a sea but a vast expanse of grass like an ocean—a sea of lush green.

After completing the circuit, since we hadn't recorded the data, we went around again. This year, I've entered Sichuan twice!

[Yunnan Luoshui Lover's Beach]

[Lige Peninsula]

[Sichuan Libai Lover's Beach]

[Yunnan Luoshui Lover's Beach]

After the circuit, we returned to the hotel and sat on the little balcony, eating barbecue—so pleasant!

The next day was the last day of the trip. We walked along the lake to the southern beach of Lugu Lake. There, I practiced skipping stones. At first, my stones went "plunk." Dad told me that for stone skipping, you need flat stones and speed. Following his advice, my skipping improved greatly. Now, out of ten tries, I can succeed once. We continued walking along the lake back to the guesthouse.

Tomorrow, I'll leave Yunnan and return to my hometown—Wuhan.

—Diandian, written on July 7-9, 2020 by Lugu Lake.

The Father's Chapter of the Colorful South of the Clouds (Author: Diandian's Dad)

Day 01: July 3, 2020—Colorful South of the Clouds (Sea Sky Love + Dali Ancient Town)

At 4:00 PM, flight MU9736 from Wuhan to Dali slowly landed on the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, officially kicking off our trip to Yunnan. Dali, the capital of the ancient Nanzhao Kingdom in the Tang Dynasty and the Dali Kingdom in the Song Dynasty, boasts a long history and splendid culture. Master Jin Yong's martial arts novels added a mysterious and fantastical hue to Dali. Dali of wind, flowers, snow, and moon, here we come.

Driving from the airport along the west round-lake road toward "Sea Sky Love" by Erhai Lake, my daughter curiously observed everything outside the window. On the left was Cangshan Mountain wrapped in clouds, like a natural barrier, majestic and towering; on the right was the vast Erhai Lake, like a giant jade embraced by mountains, sparkling; the sky above stretched from Cangshan to Erhai, from west to east, from dark to light, from heavy to clear.

About 30 minutes later, we turned from the main road onto a village lane. Every household had flowing water and blooming flowers; red blossoms and green willows, murmuring streams. The villages by Erhai Lake were tranquil and beautiful. The guesthouses by the lake offered wide views and lovely scenery, and "Sea Sky Love" was the one with the most cultural atmosphere and lifestyle flair. After checking in, we entered Room 303, a sea-view room. A cozy bed under gauzy canopies, a uniquely shaped hot spring bathtub, and floor-to-ceiling windows extending our view to the terrace and Erhai Lake. Above the lake, auspicious clouds reflected in the water; after the rain, the azure sky merged with the water's hue. My daughter eagerly ran to the terrace, surrounded by blooming flowers and fish darting in shallow water. Leaning back on a lounge chair on the wooden terrace, everywhere the eye looked, water shimmered, sky and sea kissed—truly a "Sea Sky Love"; the flower beds on the terrace were so red they tugged at your heart, a garden sea view indeed.

The evening sun caressed Erhai Lake and the mountains. Soft light and beautiful scenery beckoned my daughter and wife to take photos on the terrace. I took a stroll around the hotel. The second-floor book bar had shelves stacked with thick English books; the first floor had a tea room and a snack bar offering free fruit, yogurt, and tea. In front of the hotel was a pedestrian walkway along the lake. Walking by the lake with the sea breeze, humming the song "Go to Dali" from the movie Breakup Buddies, I became a middle-aged man of arts. Among the inns on the west round-lake road, "Sea Sky Love" creatively connected the rooms with Erhai Lake and the blue sky through the terrace, without any barrier, not even a sheet of clear glass. Later, I learned that the hotel owners are returnees from studying in the US, and the design was by an American designer from California.

[Terrace of Room 303, Sea Sky Love Garden Sea View Hotel (Erhai Flagship Store)]

[Sea Sky Love, boundless scenery]

[Sea Sky Love, book bar]

[Sea Sky Love, tea room]

Sea Sky Love is not far from Dali Ancient Town. The Prince Duan Tian Long Ba Bu (Demi-Gods and Semi-Devils) themed restaurant, well-known online, is located inside the town. We drove ten minutes to the ancient town. Cars could actually drive along the flagstone roads amid pedestrians—something I hadn't expected. Dali Ancient Town in the sunset was quaint and elegant. Shops lined the streets, but without excessive noise; I enjoyed the tranquility. I parked at Prince Duan's. My wife and daughter were already queuing at the door. Even during the tourism recovery period, there were quite a few diners waiting, and we were among them. While waiting, my wife and daughter posed with the "Demi-Gods and Semi-Devils" theme at the entrance—Six Meridian Swords, Demi-Gods and Semi-Devils, full of martial arts sentiment.

We didn't wait long; the server led us to the second floor. The restaurant was decorated with guzhengs and pipas, and calligraphy brushes and precious fans adorned the tables. If you think dining here is just for the ambiance, you'd be mistaken. Try the Duan Family's Diving Dragon Leaping Water Fish, Bai-style Sichuan Pepper Chicken, water flowers, and sip some Paoluda, aftertaste tea, and rose fermentation—your taste buds are stimulated, your mood cultivated.

The Diving Dragon Leaping Water Fish was finished right before us: hot stones and Erhai fish were placed into a prepared broth, sizzling and boiling, aroma filling the air. The fish was tender and smooth, the broth sour and spicy. The Bai-style Sichuan Pepper Chicken was generous in portion, not dry or greasy, infused with Sichuan pepper fragrance, bite after bite, irresistible. Paoluda was sweet and delightful, the aftertaste tea lingered on the tongue, and the rose fermentation was intoxicating!

[Prince Duan's—girl in red]

[Prince Duan's—menu]

[Prince Duan's—Bai-style Sichuan Pepper Chicken]

[Prince Duan's—Diving Dragon Leaping Water Fish]

[Prince Duan's—Paoluda]

After dinner, we strolled along the ancient town's streets. The full moon hung high; it sometimes hid shyly in the clouds, sometimes hung boldly in the night sky. My daughter excitedly recited a passage she'd learned: "The moon has risen! It rises from the Erhai Lake. Has it been washed in the Erhai Lake? The moon's disc is so bright, the moonlight so soft, illuminating the high Cangshan Mountain, illuminating the big green tree at the village entrance, also illuminating the village lanes and paths..."

No doubt, this moon rose from the Erhai shore too! We returned to the little terrace of Sea Sky Love, gazing at the white jade plate in the sky, the moon over Erhai in the water.

Our family, Friday, July 3, 2020

At Room 303, Sea Sky Love Garden Sea View Hotel, Dali City, Yunnan Province

Day 02: July 4, 2020—Colorful South of the Clouds (Circling Erhai Lake + Butterfly Spring)

Somehow, Dali has become a favorite among backpackers. Whether it's the legendary "Peach Blossom Spring," the movie Breakup Buddies, or Dali's own legend of wind, flowers, snow, and moon, in any case, a carefree ride around Erhai Lake, embracing the flawless jade among mountains, is a rare experience.

After enjoying a fine breakfast at Sea Sky Love, our family of three set off driving, a 130-kilometer self-drive around Erhai Lake. Following the coastline, our route: Sea Sky Love—Haishe Park—Xizhou Ancient Town—Butterfly Spring—Shuanglang—Wase—Xiaoputuo—Haidong Town—Dali Ancient Town—Sea Sky Love.

[Breakfast at Sea Sky Love]

Driving on the west round-lake road, Cangshan Mountain on the left was veiled in clouds. We couldn't see the snow on Cangshan, so we turned our eyes to Erhai Lake on the right. It's a scenic highland lake, long and narrow from north to south, its clean, transparent surface like a blue sea merging with the sky.

After 20 km, we reached Haishe Park. The park narrows from wide to deep into Erhai Lake, shaped like a tongue, hence the name. Haishe Park was closed for construction, but its surroundings were still picturesque. Green willows lined the shore, the lake rippled gently. An unexpected light rain fell, creating shy ripples on the water's surface. In the rain, we unexpectedly reached the deepest part of Erhai.

[Haishe Park]

Xizhou Ancient Town is 18 km north of Dali Ancient Town, not far from Haishe Park, bordered by Erhai Lake to the east and Cangshan Mountain to the west. We drove on its stone roads in the drizzling rain, having close contact. Here are the best-preserved and most numerous Bai ethnic residential clusters. These dwellings mainly come in four styles: "two houses and one ear," "three sections and one screen wall," "four courtyards and five skylights," "six harmonizing spring." The buildings feature carved beams, painted rafters, overlapping brackets, upturned eaves—magnificent. The colorful paintings on gate towers, screen walls, and gable walls are splendid, fully reflecting the Bai people's architectural talent and artistic creativity. Xizhou Ancient Town still retains its charm, its cultural heritage quietly tucked into the depths of time amid the fine rain.

Leaving Xizhou, we drove north along the west line of Erhai to Butterfly Spring. The weather didn't cooperate; rain grew heavier. Our car started slipping. I carefully drove the Tiguan to the scenic area parking lot, heavy rain blurring the windows. I called XX Car Rental to request a replacement of the same class (newer, newer tires, delivered quickly). The rental company immediately sent a staff member. Instead of fretting, we decided to adjust plans: we went to a nearby restaurant called Taoyuan Renjia at Peach Blossom Pier for lunch. Truly "peaches and plums do not speak, yet a path forms beneath them." The courtyard was laden with peaches and plums, grapevines shading the sky. Sitting at a stone table in the garden, we savored small fish and shrimp from Erhai, and bacon potato rice with a unique flavor.

[Stone table at Taoyuan Renjia]

[Swing at Taoyuan Renjia]

After we filled our bellies, the sun unexpectedly emerged from the white clouds after the rain, shining over Butterfly Spring at the foot of Yunnong Peak of Cangshan Mountain. We took a scenic shuttle to the Five Dragon Spouting Pool. Spring water gushed from five dragon heads' mouths. Washing hands brought good luck; a sip refreshed the spirit. The water flowed into a square pool called "Butterfly Spring." The pool was deep yet clear. A tall ancient tree lay across it, the "Butterfly Tree," reflected in the mirror-like water. Though we didn't witness countless butterflies gathering by the spring, flying all over, mating and hanging from the tree in chains to the water's surface—a spectacular sight—the three large characters "Butterfly Spring" handwritten by Guo Moruo in 1961, already carved on the stone arch by the pool, still stirred our imagination. Butterfly Spring, like a transparent gem set in greenery, attracts visitors with its unique wonder.

Going down the steps, we reached Lover's Lake. Ducks floated on green water, fish darted in shallow depths, fountains danced, blue sky and white clouds reflected. We didn't have time for more; a call came from the car rental staff saying he had arrived at the Butterfly Spring parking lot. We descended early, exited the scenic area, and reached the parking lot. A nearly new Borgward BX7 was parked next to our muddy Tiguan. We smoothly completed the car swap: new tires, large rims, clean body, leather interior, panoramic sunroof, keyless start, front and rear camera radar, side mirror collision warning, power seats, power tailgate, Bluetooth—everything complete. It was truly a case of after the rain comes sunshine, and our mood was excellent. The rental company's efficiency made this loyal fan even more committed.

Driving the brand-new car, we continued around the lake. Next stop: Shuanglang Town. Facing the blue Erhai Lake and overlooking the 19 peaks of Cangshan Mountain, it gathers the essence of Cang'er scenery, earning the saying: "Dali's scenery lies in Cang'er, Cang'er's scenery lies in Shuanglang." It indeed offers the best views of Erhai. The divine light on Erhai, with the continuous Cangshan as backdrop, allows many photography enthusiasts to capture stunning images. Here, water and sky merge, mountains and shimmering waters complement each other, Jinsuo Island's brocade, twin islands and twin bends mingle with the ancient, elegant Bai town. Every step a scene, every glance a view. We strolled and paused, newlyweds in wedding photos, and some less graceful souls clowning around. Perhaps it's all uncontrollable self-expression and letting go amidst the beautiful scenery.

Not far from Nanzhao Customs Island, there's a viewing platform that's the highest point on the east line of Erhai, with unbeatable views! Parking, we saw a wide highland for paid photoshoots and many Instagram-famous props: the transparent "Sky Chair," the suspended "Sky Ring," the "Sky Ladder" reaching to the sky, the "Sky Mirror" reflecting the sky, and the tilted square "Sky Frame." We paid 40 yuan for three to enter. Immediately, my daughter started letting loose.

She made full use of each prop: sitting on the Sky Chair, legs inverted pointing to the sky, black hair hanging down to the ground, frozen between sea and sky, before Cangshan; sitting on the Sky Ring, legs dangling, hands lightly on the ring, her gaze encompassing Erhai and Cangshan—eternal and unchanging; climbing the Sky Ladder, sitting quietly, jade feet dangling at the sky's edge, facing the wind from Erhai, accompanied by Cangshan's clouds, letting youth fly; standing on the Sky Mirror, towering with the sky, deep as the sea, with clouds as friends, fish as companions—in that moment, Erhai and Cangshan danced with my daughter, floating on clouds, roaring like dragons and tigers...

[Sky Ring]

[Sky Mirror]

Continuing south along the east shore for over 10 km, we reached Wase Town. The Wase water road gets submerged by the rising tide at sunset. Nearby Xiaoputuo Island had a few seagulls flying. My wife found a Bai granny to braid colored ribbons into our daughter's hair, making the ten-year-old even more radiant.

[Wase and Xiaoputuo]

When we left Wase, planning to finish the last 50 km non-stop, heaven finally shed reluctant tears, crying harder. Raindrops on the sunroof prompted my daughter to compose: "Not having seen the wind of Xiaguan, but seeing the flowers of Shangguan. Now the snow of Cangshan is before me, at night I'll admire the moon over Erhai."

In the evening, we completed the 136-kilometer loop and sat on the little terrace, enjoying barbecue from "Fish Bai Family Farmhouse." Looking at the deep evening lake and dimming horizon, my thoughts floated like rain threads on the sea, drifting with the wind.

We were fortunate in this Gengzi year summer to circle Erhai Lake as a family, gazing at Cangshan from afar and Erhai up close. When we return to Dali, the capital of love, we will properly appreciate Dali's wind, flowers, snow, and moon.

As the book says—

"Wind, flowers, snow, moon" are Dali's four great sights: the wind of Xiaguan, the flowers of Shangguan, the snow of Cangshan, the moon over Erhai.

Wind: Xiaguan is a mountain pass, the main wind source between Cangshan and Erhai. Walking on Xiaguan's streets, the wind lifts your clothes—a scene of ethereal grace.

Flowers: Shangguan is a broad grassland, flowers spread like a carpet, colorful and vibrant, called "Shangguan flowers."

Snow: The 19 peaks of Cangshan are covered with snow year-round, silver and white, known as "Cangshan snow."

Moon: On calm evenings by Erhai Lake, the moon hangs high like a jade mirror, its reflection drifting with the waves—the moon over Erhai, breathtaking.

Our family, Saturday, July 4, 2020

At Room 303, Sea Sky Love Garden Sea View Hotel, Dali City, Yunnan Province

[Glimpses of Erhai]

[Erhai sunset glow]

[Erhai loop record—136 km]

Day 03: July 5, 2020—Colorful South of the Clouds (Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple & Lashi Lake Tea Horse Road)

Some scenery is always encountered unintentionally, touched inadvertently. Such serendipity adds color to an otherwise ordinary journey.

Today's plan was to leave Dali for Lijiang. We just wanted to visit a random nearby attraction before departure. The Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple came into view because of its proximity to Sea Sky Love. Late in the morning, after breakfast, we checked out, taking the fruit and yogurt gifted by Sea Sky Love, and drove 10-plus minutes to the Three Pagodas Cultural Tourism Zone. The pagodas are at the northern outskirts of Dali Ancient Town, at the foot of Cangshan Mountain's eastern slope, combining Cang'er scenery, cultural relics, Buddhist culture, and leisure.

Temples and Buddha statues—we felt reverence, dared not profane or approach. Taking a tram to the mid-mountain, though unable to climb Wanghai Tower (closed for repairs), standing on Cangshan's stone and overlooking Erhai's water, the magnificent view filled our eyes, filling our chests with pride. Descending the steps, passing Guanyin Pavilion, Mahavira Hall, Guanyin Hall, Maitreya Hall, Heavenly King Hall—my wife prayed at each Buddha, each bodhisattva, and you followed along. Devoutly making vows, while the innocent daughter frolicked nearby.

[Overlooking the full view of Erhai from Guanyin Hall]

Walking down the stone steps guarded by green pines, we felt the historical legacy of this renowned royal temple of Nanzhao and Dali kingdoms. The Three Pagodas were first built during the Tang Kaiyuan period, flourished in the Song Dynasty, and were famous for five major treasures: the three pagodas, the Great Bell of Jianji, the Bronze Guanyin Statue of Rain, the plaque "Buddha Capital," and the Three Sacred Gold Statues. Nine kings of the Dali Kingdom once became monks at Chongsheng Temple.

From the grand stone steps, we turned to a quiet path. Beside the road, moss dyed green, trees shaded the garden, cool and refreshing, birdsong everywhere. Unwittingly, we wandered to the Juying Pool next to the Great Bell of Jianji, where the pagodas' reflections appeared. The mountains' three pagodas and their water reflections mirrored each other, forming a tripod stance, unified in layout, harmonious, a seamless whole. We forgot the couplets and screen walls of Bai dwellings in the park, the Dali stone tablet pavilions with inscribed poems, the Yangbo Pavilion whose reflection wavered in water, all the camellias, michelia, rhododendrons, and myriad exotic flowers. We couldn't help but fix our eyes on the three pagodas in the water, the blue sky and clouds caressing the pool, bathing in it.

The pool was jade green, clear to the bottom, ripple-free, mirror-smooth, the pagoda reflections sharp. My wife chose a Bai ethnic costume for our daughter, taking photos by the pool with the pagoda reflections. Truly: "Red flower top, gold trim lining, white clouds twirling skirt, pool water clear. Light gauze dances, gold rises, three pagodas reflect the jade maiden's calm." Our daughter in Bai attire and the pagodas enhanced each other's beauty, becoming the loveliest sight at that moment. My wife was enchanted, reluctant to leave. I gazed back at Cangshan, imagining on a clear day, the snow of Cangshan and the three pagodas reflected in the lake—what a picture. And certainly, in that scroll, there would be Jin Yi in Bai attire, serene, pure, and graceful.

[Main pagoda of the Three Pagodas]

[Three Pagodas reflected in the lake]

Leaving the Three Pagodas, it was noon. We had lunch in Dali Ancient Town—a mushroom hot pot. The hot pot at this shop was mouthwatering; the name unforgettable—I'm Waiting for You in Dali.

[Artistic name, unchanging sentiment]

Goodbye, Dali! At this moment, we're heading to Lijiang!

The 180-km drive on the Dali-Lijiang Expressway. At 2 PM, we set off. The scenery along the way, though not as beautiful as the Linzhi-Lhasa Highway, was still picturesque. Trees flashed past the windows; I drove listening to music. My daughter sprawled on the air mattress in the back seat, asleep, recharging. My wife checked the navigation and maps, suggesting we visit the Youyou Ancient Road Horse Farm at Lashi Lake before Lijiang; there was an Instagram spot "Pink Empire" to see.

Following the navigation, we exited the highway, passed villages, climbed slopes, and the horse farm appeared mid-mountain. Here, you could ride horses, eat, and take photos at the Instagram spots. Horse riding was what you eagerly anticipated, especially on the Tea Horse Road. "The Silk Road in the north, the Tea Horse Road in the south." The Tea Horse Road, like the Silk Road, played a vital role in the Chinese nation's development, but it has gradually faded into history's dust with modern civilization. Yet its history and value forever shine, drawing later generations to encounter and follow.

The groom led three Yunnan horses, the reins of the rear horse tied to the saddle of the front. We three mounted one after another, forming a small caravan. My daughter's riding felt good—one with the horse, graceful and free. Perhaps she didn't realize this was no ordinary horse farm, no ordinary mountain path; it was the thousand-year-old Tea Horse Road. Our horses' bells echoed over Lashi Lake; our laughter resounded in the highland forests. Riding on the muddy, winding ancient road, we breathed the fresh mountain air, looked up at auspicious clouds in the blue sky, quietly listened to birdsong in the woods—painting over the road's dusty past. On the Tea Horse Road, I seemed to see ancient caravans, carrying the wheel of time, crushing the rough paths of the years, stepping to the rhythm of life, winding into a historical track, writing a legend spanning ages.

[Tea Horse Road leisurely]

[Commemorating the Tea Horse Road]

Compared to the natural scenery and the excitement of horse riding, my daughter had zero interest in the Instagram Pink Empire. Such taste and preference were what I liked to see. So, after riding, we took a few quick photos at the Instagram spot and headed to Shuhe Ancient Town in Lijiang.

[Pink Empire]

In the evening drizzle, we arrived at the Shuhe Ancient Town parking lot. Xiaokang from Lisi Man Art Club came with an electric tricycle to help with our luggage. The misty rain wetted the blue flagstones, intoxicating the pedestrians. Small bridges, flowing water, homes; ancient town, green willows, fresh flowers—a peace and comfort beyond words. Lisi Man Art Club was quaint yet cozy. Our family room was in the Spring Courtyard, Room 06 on the third floor. The small balcony drew our eyes to the courtyard's flowers, grass, pond, and fish—small but infinitely scenic. I'd go down in the morning to explore.

[Courtyard of Lisi Man Inn (Lijiang Art Club)]

After settling in, we went to Naxi Firepit in the ancient town for cured rib hot pot. The roaring fire in the stove made poor Diandian jump from the heat. Sweating profusely, face red, preferring to eat less so she could escape. Along the way, we saw the bustle of the bar street, but that didn't seem like the true Shuhe. Most of the town, like its rivers and streams, exudes pure vitality in tranquility.

[Naxi Firepit]

Late at night, my daughter asleep, I looked at the bright moon outside the window, wanting to tell her: Dear baby, the moon in Shuhe Ancient Town is also very bright!

Our family, Sunday, July 5, 2020

At Spring Courtyard 06, Lisi Man Inn (Lijiang Art Club), Shuhe Ancient Town, Lijiang, Yunnan

[Full moon over Lijiang]

Day 04: July 6, 2020—Colorful South of the Clouds (Jade Dragon Snow Mountain + Impression Lijiang + Blue Moon Valley)

Early morning, the east showed fish-belly white, the west still held the full moon. From the balcony, I didn't see the sunrise but watched the moon set. My wife and daughter still asleep, I took my camera and wandered the ancient town alone, stepping on the polished flagstone roads, listening to the babbling water. The whole town was still in dreamland, so quiet it was endearing. Truly: "Highland water town reputation not in vain, small bridges, flowing water, willow pavilions. Moonlight clear and serene, morning sun gentle and warm."

[Glimpses of Shuhe Ancient Town]

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain scenic area is a 30-minute drive from Shuhe. Basking in the morning sun, we drove there. On the road, ahead on the left, the towering Jade Dragon Snow Mountain came into view. This sacred, never-conquered mountain, with thirteen peaks arranged north to south, capped with eternal snow, against the azure sky, looked like a jade dragon dancing in the air.

Approaching the scenic area, staff checked health codes and sold tickets roadside (medical staff free). We quickly registered and got tickets, then drove straight to P6 parking lot near Ganhaizi and the Impression Theater. Taking a scenic bus 5 km west to the cable car lower station at 3,356 meters. No queue in the morning; we boarded the cable car and began to ride the clouds. At first, parting the mist, we saw dense primeval forest below; then bare black-and-white stones took over; near the upper station, the main peak revealed glaciers above the 4,600-meter snow line through the clouds. The Jade Dragon cable car is 2,914 meters long, with a vertical rise of 1,150 meters, bringing us to the viewing platform at 4,506 meters.

Catching our breath, we didn't linger but continued along the boardwalk. Gusts of wind blew my daughter's long hair, reddened her face, and also unveiled the last veil of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The mountain loomed in and out of sight; at certain moments, the sky was azure, cloudless, the peaks looked like they'd been washed by jade liquid, the snow's crystal brilliance dazzling, possessing a radiance of "snow the same in ancient or present, dawn and dusk lose track." After over 30 minutes of high-altitude hiking, we three reached the highest viewing platform at 4,680 meters. The summit stretched before us, millennia-old glaciers beneath our feet. In the summer's icy world, we cheered and jumped. My daughter composed a poem: "The boardwalk on the snow mountain is steep, both sides revealing scenery. Snow piled on the mountain, mist and clouds winding at the horizon." In the summer of Gengzi year, my 10-year-old daughter climbed to the highest viewing platform of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain at 4,680 meters, leaving a precious photo in front of the "Jade Dragon Snow Mountain 4680" stone marker—the three of us in short sleeves, smiling confidently into the distance, with the eternal glacier behind.

[Jade Dragon Snow Mountain white clouds flying]

[On the 4,680m highest viewing platform—family in short sleeves]

If Jade Dragon Snow Mountain was created by gods, the Impression Lijiang show was created by humans. After descending, we had lunch at KFC, then headed early to the Impression Lijiang theater for the 1:30 PM show. This was my second time watching this performance in the highest open-air theater; back then, our daughter hadn't been born. Impression Lijiang uses the snow mountain as backdrop, drawing on the spirituality of heaven and earth, the essence of nature, with ethnic culture as the medium, a bold stroke of impressionism, at an altitude of 3,100 meters on the world's highest performance ground, making the reality and shock of life so close to everyone.

The one-hour show consists of six parts: "Ancient Road Caravan," "Drinking with the Snow Mountain," "Heaven and Earth," "Beating and Jumping Suite," "Drum Worship and Heaven Sacrifice," and "Prayer Ceremony."

(1) Ancient Road Caravan: galloping on the red roof, as if recreating the "bells on the mountain path, caravan approaches" of the Tea Horse Road six centuries ago. The saddle dance shows the heroism of the caravan men; the basket dance shows the hardworking, uncomplaining maternal nature of Naxi women.

(2) Drinking with the Snow Mountain: friends come, drink! Friends leave, drink! Happy, drink; unhappy, still drink! These passionate men at the foot of the snow mountain have wild heroism and childlike joy.

(3) Heaven and Earth: the paradise for lovers, this is Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Lijiang is known as the city of love suicides; the Dongba scriptures recorded a touching legend of the Jade Dragon Third Kingdom.

(4) Beating and Jumping Suite: an ethnic group that always lives joyously. For minorities, speaking is singing, walking is dancing.

(5) Drum Worship and Heaven Sacrifice: the Naxi are sons of heaven, brothers of nature.

(6) Prayer Ceremony: this is a magical place. Call heaven, heaven answers; call earth, earth answers... Please cross your hands and place them on your forehead, let your gaze be far. Toward the sky, put your palms together, spread your arms, lift them above your head, make your wish. Standing before the miraculous Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, we devoutly pray for you who have come from all directions, asking heaven to grant your wishes, to bestow blessings. We devoutly pray for you here, waiting for you to return.

[Impression Lijiang]

We left our beautiful wishes with Impression Lijiang. Exiting the theater, we took a scenic bus to Blue Moon Valley. Melting snow from Jade Dragon Snow Mountain forms a river that flows through a valley on the eastern slope. Because the moon reflects in the blue lake against the blue sky, and because it resembles the Blue Moon Valley in James Hilton's Lost Horizon, it's named "Blue Moon Valley." This place, much like Jiuzhaigou and Huanglong, with the looming Jade Dragon Snow Mountain as its backdrop, is stunning: "White clouds fly over Jade Dragon Snow Peak, Blue Moon Lake ripples like jade." A perfect scenic spot, a photography hotspot. My daughter lingered over the beauty, also fascinated by the origin of White Water River. The various lakes in Blue Moon Valley are connected by the ever-flowing White Water River; its riverbed and terraces consist of white marble and limestone fragments and powder, making it appear grayish-white. Clear springs flow over, also appearing white, hence the name "White Water River." Before leaving Blue Moon Valley, she playfully stirred the lime fragments by the shore with a branch, turning the clear water magically milky.

[Blue Moon Lake ripples like jade]

At dusk, it was time to say goodbye to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and Blue Moon Valley. Back in Shuhe Ancient Town, we sat at the second-floor window seat of "Little Pot Rice—Yunnan Folk Flavor Restaurant," listening to the bar singer's heartfelt songs, tasting braised black goat, Dongba grilled fish, iron-plate crisp tofu, and little pot rice. This felt very Lijiang.

[Window seat at Little Pot Rice]

[Braised black goat, Dongba grilled fish, iron-plate crisp tofu at Little Pot Rice]

After dinner, we strolled the ancient town's streets, browsed ethnic clothing shops. My wife and daughter each bought a set. We agreed: tomorrow morning, dressed in ethnic clothes, we'd create beautiful memories on the flagstone roads.

Our family, Monday, July 6, 2020

At Spring Courtyard 06, Lisi Man Inn (Lijiang Art Club), Shuhe Ancient Town, Lijiang, Yunnan

Day 05: July 7, 2020—Colorful South of the Clouds (Morning in Shuhe Ancient Town + Pig Trough Boat on Lugu Lake)

At barely dawn, the ancient town slept silently, no pedestrians. My daughter, in a magenta short ethnic outfit, wrapped in a blanket, wearing slippers, walked on the mottled flagstone roads, sat quietly by a babbling brook, threaded through alleys with lanterns hung high. My wife's camera froze these long-lasting, memorable moments.

[Shuhe Ancient Town early morning]

"The eastern sky is dawning, do not boast you're early on the road. Tread the ancient town still young, the scenery this morning uniquely good!" My daughter and the ancient town enhanced each other, leaving their most beautiful memories. After breakfast, with a wave, my daughter bid farewell to Shuhe Ancient Town; we were heading to the highland pearl on the Sichuan-Yunnan border—Lugu Lake.

180 km of mountain roads, over four hours' drive—I had no worries. My wife and I just needed the courage and caution from our Tibet self-drive. We took Lining Highway and Ninglu Highway from Lijiang to Lugu Lake, with boundless scenery. Lining Highway winds above 2,000 meters on the high plateau; the Lining Eighteen Bends near the Jinsha River gorge are the most spectacular. The road clings to cliffs; the Jinsha River surges from the gorge, carrying sand and soil, yellow waves rolling, plunging a thousand miles.

[Jinsha River and the Lining Eighteen Bends]

At 2 PM, we arrived at the gate of Lugu Lake scenic area, co-administered by Ninglang County, Yunnan, and Yanyuan County, Sichuan. Before entering, we could already see picturesque mountains embracing the vast blue lake. Buying tickets and entering, we couldn't linger; following the navigation along the mountain road, we settled at Shilily Pan Honey Moon Xiaozhu Mosuo by Lugu Lake. From the hotel balcony, the lake stretched endlessly; walking by the lake, the water was crystal clear, dotted with water flowers on the surface, blue sky reflected, white clouds mirrored. It was simply too beautiful.

[Balcony glimpse—just catching my daughter writing her travelogue at the computer]

Walking along the lake, we reached Luoshui Pier, 700 meters from the hotel, and took a pig trough boat rowed by Mosuo boatman and boatwoman to Libu Island in the center. Cool breezes blew from the lake, lifting my daughter's and wife's long hair. As we neared Libu Island, through the transparent water, the rocks below were clearly visible. Leaning over, a mouthful of lake water tasted sweet as mountain spring. Circling the island, we passed between the crocodile's mouth and the turtle—this is the boundary between Yunnan and Sichuan on Lugu Lake. The crocodile mouth belongs to Yunnan, and the turtle son is Sichuan. Listening to the boatman's ancient stories of men and women, happening amidst this idyllic lake and mountain scenery. Here lives an ancient Mosuo community continuing matrilineal traits, with the unique walking marriage—men don't marry, women don't wed, together at dusk, apart at dawn—natural and simple customs, cloaking this ancient home in mystery and beauty, hence Lugu Lake is called the magical Eastern Kingdom of Women.

[Luoshui Pier]

[Selfie at the bow]

[Yunnan-Sichuan border—left Sichuan, right Yunnan]

[Lugu Lake water at Libu Island crystal clear]

Lugu Lake, with its picturesque scenery, also has delicious food, like mouthwatering Mosuo grilled meat. Having skipped lunch, we had a late lunch/early dinner at Mosuo Flame Barbecue near Luoshui Pier. The three of us gathered around a tabletop charcoal grill, pretending to be experts. Haha, the results were good: pork belly crispy outside, tender inside; Mosuo grilled meat hearty; crisp tofu tasty; potato slices lingering; garlic eggplant fragrant.

[Mosuo Flame Barbecue]

After a full meal, with the sunset's afterglow, we drove back to the Lugu Lake viewing platform at the scenic area entrance to take in the full view spanning both provinces—the lake and mountains, breathtakingly beautiful. A mountain storm was brewing; the wind was chilly, so we didn't linger long and drove back to the hotel.

[Glimpse of Lugu Lake viewing platform]

[Glimpse of Lugu Lake viewing platform—a storm coming]

A torrential downpour came as expected. That night, rain dripped onto the mirror-like surface of Lugu Lake.

Our family, Tuesday, July 7, 2020

At Room 8207, Shilily Pan Honey Moon Xiaozhu Mosuo, Luoshui Lower Village, Yongning Township, Ninglang Yi Autonomous County, Yunnan Province

Day 06: July 8, 2020—Colorful South of the Clouds (Self-drive around Lugu Lake)

One day, two laps around the lake, twice entering Sichuan from Yunnan, twice returning from Sichuan to Yunnan. This is the magical Lugu Lake, and this is the crazy us. Before coming to Yunnan, we knew: due to pandemic policies, hotels in Sichuan by Lugu Lake would not accept Hubei tourists, whereas Yunnan's hotels were more rational and accommodating, accepting low-risk guests with a Yunnan green code. The lake loop is about 50 km, half the road and lake in Sichuan. We weren't sure if we could complete the loop, so we took it step by step—if possible, go around; if not, return the same way.

Late in the morning, we set out from the hotel, circling clockwise. Soon, we arrived at Lover's Beach. Lugu Lake has two Lover's Beaches: one in Yunnan's Luoshui, the other in Sichuan's Libai. Here, at Yunnan Luoshui, the rocky beach meets the water, incredibly clear, the calm surface like a mirror, dotted with water flowers; the azure sky washed clean, drifting with auspicious clouds. Our family, in red family outfits, added color to the lake and brightened the mountains. Later in the afternoon, when I returned here and found a water snake—that's a later story. Before that, you just wanted to embrace every inch of this water.

[Luoshui Lover's Beach]

Leaving Lover's Beach, we continued on the winding mountain road, up and down, to Lige Peninsula on the northwest side. It quietly rests under Goddess Gemu Mountain (closed due to pandemic), with houses scattered on the bay and peninsula. Its unique location gives Lige a different lake-and-mountain scenery from other villages, attracting tourists. Here's an excellent vacation spot: willows swaying, rocky beaches into the water, gentle ripples, green mountains, white clouds, pig trough boats reflected in the water, welcoming guests from afar.

[Lige Peninsula scenery]

[Lige Peninsula beautiful landscape]

Leaving Lige Peninsula, a section of road was difficult due to construction. Even so, it didn't stop us from finding a quiet dirt path on the high mountains of Nisai Village to overlook Lugu Lake. Though thick clouds obscured the blue sky, they couldn't hide the clear lake and lush mountains.

Navigating the narrow mountain road, we entered Sichuan from Yunnan for the first time. Further on, we reached Waku Bay's ten-mile sandy shore—that's Libai Lover's Beach. On the rocky beach, with good sunlight and open views, colorful pig trough boats dotted the lake; a flock of ducks floated by. I simply parked the car on the lakeside sand; my wife and daughter sat on the roof, gazing at the lake scenery. Green mountains, blue lake, trees, rocky beach all in view, and of course, Lugu Lake's signature water flowers. "Not afraid of thick clouds hiding the blue sky, just because we're at Lover's Beach." Even without words, tenderness prevails. Nature's love poem written here, soaked in the scenery, rich with flavor.

[Libai Lover's Beach]

[Libai Lover's Beach—with the BX7]

[Libai Lover's Beach]

Leaving Lover's Beach, it was noon. Following Provincial Road 307, we left the lake briefly, passed through Lugu Lake Town, where Sichuan eateries lined the flagstone roads. Not daring to stop, we headed straight to the Grass Sea and Walking Marriage Bridge, combining natural beauty and cultural landscape. Here, tour buses and groups began appearing. In the parking lot, a Mosuo granny braided ribbons into my wife's and daughter's hair. I examined the Grass Sea from the shore. Lugu Lake's water is very blue and clear, but the connected Grass Sea is a different scene: water full of green grass and reeds. A Walking Marriage Bridge links both sides and divides the Grass Sea in two. In this green water area at the northeast corner, water birds skim the surface, disappearing into the reeds. Occasionally, Mosuo girls in red and white skirts appear, their folk songs echoing over the sea of grass.

[Walking Marriage Bridge and Grass Sea]

The Grass Sea has infinite charm, but it wasn't your favorite. The story of the Walking Marriage Bridge is distant, a world hard for us to grasp. I reined in my drifting thoughts and continued our loop. Amidst the lake and mountains, exiting Sichuan at Shankua and entering Yunnan at Langfang, we completed the first return from Sichuan.

Soon after, we drove back to Luoshui's Shilily Pan Honey Moon Xiaozhu Mosuo. The hotel owner, per our request, switched us to a third-floor room. To see further, go up a floor. Room 303 had a wide view, the entire Lugu Lake and Libu Island spread before us—the best view in the hotel.

[Even better view from Room 303, Lugu Lake view from inside]

After a short rest, at 3 PM, my daughter and wife changed into ethnic clothes, and we started our second loop. First, to see the afternoon's Lugu Lake, and second, to record the loop track with a phone app. I knew the circuit by heart. First stop, Luoshui Lover's Beach.

A storm was gathering; the lake water seemed a bit murkier. My daughter cheerfully posed in the water; I noticed what looked like a water snake slipping from shallows to deep. I told her, but she thought I was crying wolf, somewhat dismissive. When she saw the stone-colored snake retreating to shore, she fled the water, far from the lake.

[Afternoon Yunnan Luoshui Lover's Beach]

Lugu Lake isn't large; we didn't stop long at previous viewpoints. But there was one overlooked gem—the Mosuo Homeland Viewing Platform. Here, we enjoyed the blue sky and white clouds, the lake and mountain splendor—blissful! Self-driving around the lake, we again went from Yunnan to Sichuan and back, reliving the beauty, quietly savoring the sweet moments!

[Mosuo Homeland]

51.97 km, two hours, we completed the second beautiful loop of Lugu Lake. The picturesque lakeside is like a poem or painting. The most beautiful spots aren't Goddess Bay or the Walking Marriage Bridge over the Grass Sea, but the pig trough boats at Luoshui Pier, the Libai Lover's Beach, and the crescent moon in front of our hotel.

[Lugu Lake loop record—52 km]

As dusk fell, soft natural light sprinkled on the lake in front of the hotel. My daughter sat on the crescent moon statue on shore; coupled with my wife's superb Photoshop skills, the image looked like a moonlight goddess sitting on the moon, with the crescent floating on the lake, dreamlike and surreal. Back in the hotel, the three of us sat on the balcony at the round table, watching the distant mountains and lake darken bit by bit, sipping beer and cola, eating Mosuo flame barbecue, putting a poetic end to this wonderful day.

[Lugu Lake moon]

[Lugu Lake girl]

[Lugu Lake sentiment]

[Lugu Lake dinner]

After dinner, my daughter eagerly sat at the computer, continuing her Yunnan travelogue. She tapped out words like musical notes, painting the beauty of the Colorful South of the Clouds, writing her own chapter.

Our family, Wednesday, July 8, 2020

At Room 8303, Shilily Pan Honey Moon Xiaozhu Mosuo, Luoshui Lower Village, Yongning Township, Ninglang Yi Autonomous County, Yunnan Province

Day 07: July 9, 2020—Colorful South of the Clouds (Lugu Lake Stroll + Stone Skipping)

Quietness is a major feature of Lugu Lake, perhaps due to the warm embrace of surrounding peaks, or perhaps the mountain wind is inherently tranquil. The lake surface has few waves, the shoreline is winding with many bays, and there are many rocky beaches for playing.

[Lugu Lake's rocky beach]

Waking naturally in the morning, we stretched, had breakfast, and strolled along the stone path by the lake. Mist and clouds wreathed the distant mountains; water flowers kissed the mirror-like water. "Where water is too clear, no fish"—that's not true at Lugu Lake; the water is crystal clear, transparent little fish darting among the grasses. I picked up a flat stone from the beach and skipped it; the stone skimmed the surface, causing ripples, which sparked my daughter's immense interest. She searched for flat stones along the way, bending to skip them.

The rocky bank was two feet above the water, with water flowers close to shore, not ideal for skipping. So we first took photos by green willows and red blossoms, swung on a lakeside hammock, and wandered to the rocky beach at Luoshui Pier. There, my daughter enthusiastically practiced skipping stones. Perhaps due to wrong posture or insufficient strength, she rarely succeeded. When a stone finally skipped twice on the water, she cheered with joy.

[Lugu Lake stroll—red flowers]

[Lugu Lake stroll—waterwheel]

[Lugu Lake stroll—green willows]

[Lugu Lake stroll—willows green]

[Lugu Lake stroll—hammock]

[Lugu Lake stroll—stone skipping]

At noon, we had steamed stone pot fish at Shengyan Ge. Hits from the pandemic were evident: this top-rated restaurant had only us. The honest owner selected a fresh fish from Lugu Lake weighing about 1.5 kg, cleaned it, put it whole into the stone pot with seasonings, covered it, and turned on the steam. One hourglass later (about 5 minutes), the delicious steamed stone pot fish was ready, aroma wafting. We ate with gusto: the soup fresh, fish tender white, various mushrooms enhancing the pot. Delicious stone pot fish, beautiful Lugu Lake.

[Steamed stone pot fish]

In the afternoon, we listened to the rain in our room, read Journey to the West, and took a long nap.

In the evening, we competed in stone throwing on the rocky beach after the drizzle stopped, skipping stones by the lakeside in the gentle wind and light rain. Dear baby, do you remember? You skipped a stone that bounced four times. In the rain, ripples on the lake merged with the fine rain of Lugu Lake.

Lugu Lake is such a place, hidden among mountains, drawing people from all directions—some from Chengdu, we from Lijiang. I know Lugu Lake is etched in our hearts: Located at the border of southwestern Sichuan and Lijiang, Yunnan, it's a cross-province lake. Altitude 2,690 meters, average depth 45 meters, deepest 93 meters. Water quality is excellent, nearly drinkable, transparency up to 11 meters, maximum visibility 12 meters. It's Sichuan's largest freshwater lake and Yunnan's highest-altitude lake.

[Lugu Lake stroll—throwing stones]

[Lugu Lake stroll—in the rain]

At night, we ate snacks on the balcony, quietly listening to the murmuring words of Lugu Lake. Moonlight like water shimmered on the rippling lake; a cool breeze blew from the lake, accompanied by bar music, telling of our reluctance to leave...

Our family, Thursday, July 9, 2020

At Room 8303, Shilily Pan Honey Moon Xiaozhu Mosuo, Luoshui Lower Village, Yongning Township, Ninglang Yi Autonomous County, Yunnan Province

[Serene Lugu Lake]

[I'm waiting for you at Lugu Lake]

Day 08: July 10, 2020—Colorful South of the Clouds (Beautiful Yunnan, Goodbye!)

Colorful South of the Clouds, the direction of my heart. Every day in Yunnan, we enjoyed the gifts of nature.

Beautiful Lijiang, people on the road. This time, we leave Lugu Lake, leave Lijiang, leave Yunnan—memories stretch endlessly.

At 10:30 AM, we drove from Lugu Lake back to Lijiang. Boundless scenery along the way: Lugu Lake's water still clear, the Lining Eighteen Bends still thrilling, the Jinsha River still surging. Wheels rolled forward; over four hours, Lijiang drew near, the snow mountain drew near. We knew: the time to bid farewell to Yunnan was drawing closer.

At 3:00 PM, we smoothly returned the car at XX Car Rental (Sanyi Airport branch), obtained our boarding passes, and ate a late lunch at Dicos. My daughter ate chicken wings while enthusiastically reading Journey to the West. I wondered: when Tripitaka journeyed west, did he pass through Yunnan? If so, which places?

Then, the restaurant's music played that familiar melody—

Colorful South of the Clouds, the direction of my heart;

Peacocks fly away, memories linger;

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain gleams with silver light;

Beautiful Lijiang, people on the road;

Colorful South of the Clouds, the place to return;

Fragrant past, drifting with the wind;

By the Butterfly Spring, songs flow;

By the shores of Lugu Lake, the heart still ripples.

This melodious song, even played millions of times, always makes me cast my eyes toward China's southwest—there lies my beloved Yunnan, there lie our beautiful memories.

When flight 8L9823 from Lijiang to Wuhan slowly lifted off, we waved goodbye to Yunnan together—

Every day here, we enjoyed nature's gifts: sunshine, lake, snow mountain, blue sky, white clouds.

Every day here, we enjoyed the kindness of Yunnan people: respect, acceptance, smiles, warmth, sincerity.

Standing on Yunnan's soil, we became clear, transparent, pure-eyed. We discovered that living is so real and beautiful—why wouldn't we be grateful for life?

Standing on Yunnan's soil, we Wuhan people escaped the trouble of masks, washed away the anxiety of nucleic acid tests. Isn't this nature's grace? Isn't this the kindness of Yunnan people?

Grateful for the encounters, grateful for you!

Goodbye, Colorful South of the Clouds!

Goodbye, beautiful Yunnan!

Our family, Friday, July 10, 2020

On Flight 8L9823