Lijiang: Besides the Timeless Charm, the Cuisine is Unmissable

If a city draws you back time and again, what would be the reason? For me, it’s probably the flavors. Our journey this time began at Dali Ancient Town, passed through Shuhe, went to Shuanglang, drove around Erhai Lake, returned to Dali Ancient Town, and finally came back to Lijiang. In the morning, the inn was lit by gentle sunlight. The ancient town’s lanes began to bustle with people, and local villagers started preparing for the day’s visitors. Every now and then, you’d see a local walking their dog, the pups looking extra perky in the glow of the rising sun. Today’s culinary journey started with a bowl of Naxi rice noodles. The romantic legend of ‘crossing-the-bridge’ rice noodles here transforms into the most honest cure for hunger: a rich broth, a bold sour-spicy punch, and noodles with a firm bite—from the moment you lift your chopsticks, all your attention is captured by the taste. But rice noodles with fried dough sticks—was that a special consideration for a northerner like me? After breakfast, we drove along Snow Mountain Road, caught a glimpse of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, and headed all the way to Shuhe. Shuhe Ancient Town is known as the ‘Land of Clear Springs.’ This area was the earliest settlement of the Naxi ancestors and the birthplace of the Mu chieftains. Located at the heart of all Lijiang’s scenic spots, Shuhe is a living specimen of the Naxi transition from farming to commerce, a well-preserved important market town on the Ancient Tea Horse Road, and a hub for visiting Lijiang Old Town, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Lugu Lake, the First Bend of the Yangtze River, and the Three Parallel Rivers scenic area. This is a town even more eco-friendly than Dayan, with buildings and street layouts still in their original state. ‘Bright sun, spring breeze’—just four words capture the perfect season and weather for travel. Our half-day in Shuhe Ancient Town felt like a living illustration of that phrase: winding alleys, weather-worn walls, paired with vivid blossoms and plump, colorful, fragrant fruit. Inside Shuhe Ancient Town, all sorts of street snacks await. Led by a friend, we stepped into a restaurant in the old town with a wonderful setting—a small stream flowed at the entrance, and blooming flowers were everywhere. The service was excellent: young men and women greeted us warmly without pausing their work, all reminding me of relatives from my childhood hometown. The Naxi grilled fish was fried fragrant and tender, no frills but honest ingredients. The small-pot rice was incredibly aromatic and delicious, and the wrapped tofu—a delicacy featured on ‘A Bite of China’—was truly outstanding! Just finished eating, we were already thinking about the next stop’s food. First thing when we set off: we played the song ‘Go to Dali’ in the car, rolled down the windows to let the pleasant spring breeze in, and it felt like we could already smell Erhai Lake in the air. Passing Shuanglang and Yuji Island, we saw Yang Liping’s stunning Sun Palace, like a divine creation, and Little Putuo Island. Shuanglang was once one of my favourite places—facing Erhai Lake, backed by the Cangshan Mountains, with iconic little boats by the water, and the green trees in the lake being what drew me most. But now, due to wastewater treatment, we couldn’t go into the town area, only admire it from a distance. The peach trees along the roadside are still small; I’m sure in five years, when they’ve grown tall and bloom again, it’ll be breathtaking. Dali’s sour-spicy crucian carp, another speciality mentioned on ‘A Bite of China,’ uses Erhai fish cooked with Erhai water, plus local ingredients like sour papaya and plum sauce, giving the ordinary crucian carp a uniquely distinctive flavour. A greater adventure came from wild herbs: mint, not just a dainty garnish on Western pastries; houttuynia (fish mint), no longer just a remedy for illness; and most surprisingly, tender pine tree sprouts of spring, suddenly transformed into exquisite dishes. We followed the chef into their kitchen—spotlessly clean, with many unusual ingredients and unique cooking methods. Dairy fan is one of the most famous local snacks. As one of Yunnan’s ‘Eight Oddities’ goes, ‘milk is sold in sheets’—that’s exactly it. Here, we tasted the most authentic dairy fan. The chef added a touch of sweetness to the traditional preparation, turning what might seem a bit rich into a treat for all ages. Snacks that rival a full meal open up another vast world. Beyond Yunnan people’s universal love for mushrooms, eating insects is probably a harder hobby to embrace. Urged by friends, I ate half a skewer and thought, that’s my limit! After eating and drinking our fill, it was time to warm up the memories. We strolled into the old town to see if we could find some old traces. My last visit to Dali Ancient Town was three years ago, and I never expected to see it still looking just the same. Climbing up Wuhua Tower to gaze at the Cangshan Mountains, they seemed even loftier than a few years before, but the most beautiful evening light still fell on every household in Dali. The old town is filled with small shops selling unique handcrafts, and of course, plenty of street food. Strolling along the main street, you can eat your fill, as snacks from all over China seem to be found here. As twilight descended, we returned to Lijiang Old Town once more. When the lanterns first lit up, the night turned cool as water. History surfaced through the dim light and shadows; the centuries-old customs and stories of the Naxi people will carry on. The bustling visitors who travelled from far away also weave their own tales in the hazy night. Lijiang’s snack city is not big, but it’s a riot of colors. All kinds of bean curd creations, whose names I don’t know, are incredibly tempting. I snapped dozens of different snacks and am sharing some as a token of my enthusiasm. At night in Dayan Old Town, the liveliest spots are the bars, but I prefer strolling with the crowds through the small town, leaving the last sounds of this short trip on the flagstone paths. Rubbing shoulders with other travelers, I gazed at this brightly lit and bustling ancient town. The food journey hasn’t ended—a new adventure is about to begin. Travelogue Directory: 1. Lijiang Old Town 2. Shuhe Ancient Town 3. Dali 4. Dali Ancient Town 5. Lijiang Old Town. 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