Lijiang and Dali 6 Days 5 Nights Independent Travel – A Journey of Letting Go and Serendipity
For friends traveling soon, I’ve put together a rough itinerary for your reference. It’s a 6-day, 5-night trip for two, costing about 4500 yuan. Here are the details:
I planned a rough itinerary in advance: July 23–28, Chengdu–Lijiang–Dali–Chengdu. Three days in Lijiang, three days in Dali. Trip theme: relax, go with the flow. I pre-booked inns and transport on Ctrip, considering location, price, and online reviews. I checked Yunnan’s COVID requirements ahead of time, completed the epidemic questionnaire, and got the health code—needed for scenic spots and airports. Packing: long-sleeved jacket, long-sleeved jacket, long-sleeved jacket! Lijiang temperatures are 25–26°C, a bit cool in the morning and evening. An umbrella is a good idea; the weather changes quickly. The sun is strong, so UV protection is a must. The rest is up to your styling skills, ladies—just look beautiful! Here’s an overview of the trip:
July 23, 2020, cloudy. Took 8:45 Air China CA4451 from Chengdu to Lijiang (due to the pandemic, tickets were cheap, over 400 yuan). The airport wasn’t as empty as I’d imagined; arriving two hours early was enough. Flight time 1 hour 30 min. As soon as we landed, the inn’s pickup guy called to tell us where he was—so thoughtful! (Also: the young man from the inn proactively contacted my husband the day before departure to confirm the time, very responsible.) The drive from airport to the ancient town took about an hour, but cars can only go as far as the entrance; you have to walk to the inn inside the old town (a tip: if you’re driving yourself, make sure to confirm parking with the inn before booking). The guy walked us all the way to the inn and kindly helped carry our suitcases the whole way (the old town has stone-paved roads, so you can’t roll suitcases; some inns have small tricycles to transport luggage, but you need to confirm beforehand. Ours didn’t, but luckily the pickup guy helped ?).
We booked Lijiang Yijian Yishan Inn on Ctrip, not far from Sifang Street. A Chinese-style king room, 387 yuan/night for three nights, with airport pickup included. (Prices may vary by season, check Ctrip.) Upon arrival, the landlady upgraded us for free to a Chinese-style deluxe king room—a little joy ?, bigger than the one we booked. The inn is full of character, quiet and elegant. Our upgraded room was on the second floor, decorated in a style I love: understated, warm, clean and tidy. Bedding was top quality, soft and comfy. Everywhere in the room, you could feel the owner’s care—from furniture placement to slippers, toiletries, tissue (C&S Black Face), and the shower temperature was very stable. Big thumbs up. (Overall very satisfied, though a small regret: the window didn’t face outside the old town but the corridor. The inn has view rooms, but all on the second floor were booked, and the third-floor ones were a bit pricey, so we passed.)
After settling in, we went downstairs to the tea station for a free drink and asked the landlady for tips on food and fun over the next few days. ? She was warm and friendly, originally from Sichuan, 14 years in Lijiang, running the inn with relatives—now her siblings are all here too. She was happy to see fellow Sichuanese. We told her our trip theme: chill and go with the flow. She recommended strolling the old town in the afternoon to soak up the atmosphere, and in the evening, if interested, check out the bar street and pick one we like. For food, try Ama Yi (Naxi cuisine), a place they often eat at.
At noon on July 23, our Lijiang old town chill trip officially began. First stop: lunch at Ama Yi, a very hidden spot in an alley, easy to miss. We chose the set meal for two (cured rib hotpot, baba, chicken jelly, sour plum juice, plus I added a yogurt). Portions were generous, more than enough for two; we couldn’t finish, sadly leaving ribs in the pot ?—we were just too full. (Check online for a good group-buy deal.)
The old town wasn’t crowded during the day, very pleasant to wander. The lanes are like a maze, each one different, each with its own scenery. Around 4 p.m., we passed by Da Bing’s Little Shack and heard guitar music. The girl at the door smiled and said there were seats and we could go in; soy milk or beer 40 yuan a bottle, and you could stay all day with unlimited drinks. Longing from reading about the shack in books, I stepped in full of anticipation. True to its name, it’s tiny—really small. Five listeners sat in sunken seats, the cramped space a bit awkward. There was no fire pit as described in the book; reportedly there used to be one, later replaced by a small coffee table. People from all over sat together, listening to the wandering singer's stories and music. Each performer’s order was random, so you’d hear different singers throughout the time. As evening approached, more and more people crowded in, filling the tiny room with admirers, feeling the emotions in the music, reflecting on our own past. I’m grateful for this musical experience, but the downside for me was the lack of air circulation; it got stuffy, so I left early, not making it to the end. At night, the old town was livelier than during the day, more bustling, like flowers awakened, brilliant and colorful.
July 24 morning, cloudy. Slept in late, then had breakfast in the inn’s dining area (simple: congee, eggs, steamed buns, rolls, four pickled veggies, and rice noodles, pick what you like). Today’s plan: Mufu and Shuhe Ancient Town. After eating, we set off to Mufu inside the old town. Tickets: 40 yuan/person. Before entering: have your health code ready and wear a mask. We happened to catch a guided group tour—you know you can’t miss that. We quietly joined the group to learn about Mufu’s history. Mufu takes about 2 hours. After that, we headed straight to the exit near Big Waterwheel and took a Didi to Shuhe Ancient Town, about 12–13 yuan. (There’s a bus to Shuhe from near Zhongyi Market. We skipped it thinking it’d be hot, but later proved there’s AC, as we learned going to Baisha.)
Shuhe Ancient Town isn’t far, no entrance fee—just scan a code at the gate to register and enter for free. Compared to Lijiang Old Town, Shuhe is much quieter, fewer people. Perfect for those who like peace. We basically wandered every street and alley, and ran into many fellow countrymen—Northeasterners living away from home, so warm and familiar. At a riverside café, we ordered two drinks and sat by the window on the second floor to rest. The café’s little dog followed us up and circled me at first, then lay down under my chair and fell asleep. So happy the dog liked me. Watching tourists outside the window, listening to music, just emptying my mind—what a blissful moment! In the evening, we returned to Lijiang Old Town, strolled a bit, and then called it a night—time for hibernation!
July 25 morning, sunny. After breakfast, off to Baisha Town. Figured out the route: exit at Big Waterwheel’s left side, walk to the bus stop next to China Construction Bank, take bus 11 to Lijiang Jiayuan, transfer to bus 6, get off at Baisha Frescoes. Didn’t see the frescoes—said to be under maintenance ?. Baisha is older, preserving more ancient Naxi architecture. The area is small, no extra fee. Shops looked old, selling tie-dye, Naxi embroidery, shawls, silverware, jade, and all sorts of possibly old trinkets. Found a charming café, Miliang Coffee. A bit ashamed that we didn’t try their specialty coffee, but went for rose tea, ice cream, and tiramisu. Absolutely loved the tiramisu, so yummy ?. The rose tea was gorgeous—a whole rose blooming in the cup, stunning. Ice cream had a hint of lemon, smooth, slightly sweet. Everything just right!
We took a Didi back to Big Waterwheel from Baisha, chatting with the driver about local food. He enthusiastically recommended the snack street: clay pot rice noodles, clay pot rice, and a Naxi restaurant called Old Lijiang, a long-established place with many choices. We picked Old Lijiang. It was busy; when we arrived, only one or two tables were empty. Ordered fried white fish, water shield (literally 'water nature flower'), and stir-fried pork. The fried white fish was just okay, a bit oily, nothing special. The stir-fried pork and water shield were decent, huge portions—enough for three—but the flavors didn’t wow me. Disappointed!
Throughout our Lijiang trip, we skipped Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (there’s not much snow this season anyway, but mainly I couldn’t handle it due to altitude sickness); skipped Lugu Lake (highly recommended, it’s beautiful—we’d driven there before, so left it out this time); and didn’t see the Lijiang Eternal Love show (you can decide based on your schedule; if you go, book early for better seats). Above is my rough three-day Lijiang old town itinerary and sharing, for your reference.
July 26 morning, cloudy. Lijiang to Dali. The inn owner gave us a contact for a carpool; we booked a ride in advance, 100 yuan/person. Departed Lijiang at 9:00, arrived in Dali around 11:30, with six other passengers. The driver sister was very kind, dropped us right at our Dali inn—nice.
Around 11:30, we arrived at our booked inn: Jinghua Shuiyuan. It’s outside Dali Ancient Town, near Bo’ai Gate. Since our room wasn’t ready yet, we decided to have lunch first. The inn’s young lady recommended A Peng’s place nearby, a 3-minute walk. We ordered sour-and-spicy fish and grandma-style mashed potatoes (highly recommend, so delicious!), very reasonably priced at 76 yuan for lunch. After eating, we returned to the inn to plan the afternoon. We asked the young lady to help buy tickets for Cangshan Ximatan Cableway (full round-trip + Tianlong Babu Film City combo ticket, 290 yuan/person). Since we heard the up-bound cable car stops at 2 p.m., it was already nearly 1 p.m. when we got the tickets. Luckily, the inn lady arranged a car to take us to the scenic area, just in time. (If you’re wearing short sleeves or shorts, it’s wise to rent a coat at the foot of the mountain; it’s chilly up there. I didn’t buy oxygen; the mountain has rich vegetation, so it was okay as long as I didn’t run. If bringing kids, a canister of oxygen is recommended, just in case.)
The cableway has two sections; you can transfer immediately or explore nearby spots first. But due to weather—drizzling and foggy—we couldn’t see the beautiful scenery. Waa, all fog, all fog, all fog. The cable car reaches the summit, but you still need to hike to Ximatan—the pictures are stunning. Pity we missed it because of rain. Still, I made it to the top, a personal breakthrough. Definitely go on a clear day to hike and breathe fresh air. Tianlong Babu Film City is at the foot of the mountain, but we hardly explored because of the rain (some shops and areas weren’t open, maybe too late, very deserted). We spent about 4 hours in the area, then the rain got heavier. Couldn’t find the Old Town direct bus that’s included in the ticket, so I called the inn. The young lady arranged a car to pick us up—so grateful. Back at the inn, the rain kept pouring. The lady upgraded our room and put us on the third floor—super lucky. The room was huge, with a big bathtub and a large bay window, loved it. They also gave us a disposable bathtub liner, free to use. The inn owner was very warm, reminding us of things to note in the old town and recommending food—thankful. For dinner we ordered delivery, of course including the grandma potatoes again, plus fried ribs and fish-flavored eggplant. The rain kept falling, and I was really worried about our Erhai self-drive plan for the next day.
July 27, sunny. Grandpa Sun came out early to wake us up—beautiful! Opened the curtains and sunlight flooded in, so happy I could burst. Washed up, put on sunscreen, hat, sunglasses. Had breakfast and off we went. We’d rented a car online in advance: 300 yuan/day, a Beetle automatic. The rental place offers delivery and pickup, but you need to arrange with them—maybe depending on distance. You can also rent after arriving at the inn; there are many nearby. It’s peak season now, so I suggest contacting the inn ahead to ask about nearby rental options to secure a good price. We put in 100 yuan of gas; there was about 40 yuan left after circling Erhai.
Off on our Erhai self-drive. First stop Xizhou Ancient Town (parking fee 10 yuan; attractions inside charge separate fees, so we decisively skipped). Then directly navigated to Shuanglang Ancient Town (no highway, took the coastal road). The route was stunning: lush green rice paddies, pink lotus flowers, white puffy clouds. Big clouds drifted in the azure sky, in all shapes—cotton candy, hearts, matsutake, ladders, puppies, phoenixes; as long as you imagine, they could morph into whatever you wanted. Shuanglang is beautiful, with many Insta-worthy spots, but photos cost money, and lots of pretty girls queue up. Inside the scenic area, there’s a sightseeing car if you get tired (10 yuan per ride). We played until about 1:30 p.m., then drove out to circle Erhai (east loop). The sun was blazing; I felt like I was roasting behind the glass. Some people drove with the top down—I felt for their skin! At first we stopped now and then, getting out for seaside photos, but later it was too hot to dare leave the car. Admired all the couples taking wedding photos along the way—pain and happiness together. We talked about trying a travel photoshoot ourselves someday on an anniversary, how wonderful!
We got back to the inn before 4 p.m. The young man there gave a wry smile, saying we were the earliest returnees. ? Hot and tired, took a shower and decided to nap. After waking, we wandered the old town. For dinner, we chose a highly rated Western restaurant online: Xiang Yueliang Fei Qu (Fly to the Moon). It’s super popular; what you eat depends entirely on luck because it’s crowded, crowded, crowded. When we arrived, the waitress said orders would take about 50 minutes and advised us to save a seat with personal items, or there’d be none left. Just then, the previous guests left, so I quickly sat down—let me be the seat-holder—and asked the waitress for recommendations. In the end, we ordered: a steak (medium-well), black pepper beef thin pizza, German sausage (we canceled a pasta because it was too much), and two Sprites, about 178 yuan. Portions were huge; steak was tender and big, but the plate wasn’t cutlery-friendly ?. The pizza was crispy, beefy, and delicious. I wasn’t crazy about the German sausage, but my husband loved it, with three sauces (seemed like ketchup, garlic sauce, and a light yellow one—unknown, but he said it was good). Highly recommend trying this place; prices are reasonable. Go early, or there’ll be nothing left; shortly after we arrived, they stopped taking orders.
After dinner, strolling with the crowd in the old town was also nice. We picked the busiest street—Foreigner Street (Yangren Street). After dark, both sides were lined with stalls selling all kinds of trinkets, buzzing with activity. We wandered until 9 p.m., enjoying the brilliant night scenery along the way.
July 28, sunny. Return day. Early morning, we hit the street for local breakfast. At the South Gate Market entrance, we got a grilled er si (rice cake slice)—delicious. My husband picked a busy rice noodle shop and ordered lamb rice noodles—so aromatic. (Recommend, near South Gate Market.)
Made the most of our last time, wandering inside the old town. Went to Puxian Temple, very hidden—even after spotting the sign, you still have to walk down an alley; the entrance was fenced off for renovation. Until about 10:30, then rushed back to the inn to leave for the airport. The inn offers free airport drop-off, very convenient.
This itinerary I share with you, hoping it helps your trips. Thank you!
May life always be beautiful, and may all hardships eventually become important life experiences. No complaining, no giving up, no running away.
