In the Company of ‘Wholeness’ — Our Family’s Second Big Journey (Kunming, Dali, Lijiang, Shangri-La)

For Chinese people, ‘wholeness’ evokes feelings for family and love, and carries hope and dreams for the future.

And so, let me make ‘In the Company of Wholeness’ the theme of my first travel diary!

Some say: If you love someone, take her to Dali—there you’ll find the pure romance of wind, flowers, snow, and moon!

Some say: If you’re unhappy, go to Dali—it can reawaken the innocence and beauty deep inside!

This was my second trip to Dali!

The first was in March 2019, when my wife and I drove from Yibin through starry nights, chasing that poetry and distant horizon in our hearts.

Earlier this year, I’d planned another ‘reunion’ journey with the whole family, following our 2016 Sanya family trip!

But alas, in February, just when everything was ready, the sudden pandemic turned all our plans upside down!

No choice—cancel what needed canceling, refund what could be refunded, and stay home like good citizens! Every night my son and I would go over the itinerary we’d set: ‘Now we should be in Xizhou, eating Xizhou baba and tasting rose-flavored ice cream…’ to lull him to sleep! (Goodness, only a scatterbrained dad like me could come up with such a trick.)

Looking back, I think I’ve fallen completely under Dali’s spell, and it’s the incurable kind… (In the future, Dali will be the faraway place where I rest my heart and soul!)

But thinking it over, even though that trip didn’t happen, being with my parents and child, the whole family reunited (because of work, I hadn’t been home for the New Year’s Eve dinner for several years, including this year. On the second day of the lunar new year, my parents drove five hours to the city I’d settled in), staying home without going out (aside from joining my wife to hand out masks in the streets), I found peace in being a good citizen and not adding to the country’s troubles!

2020 was destined to be extraordinary.

In March, my father was diagnosed with cancer. The doctor said things didn’t look optimistic. In that instant, I soberly realized how important it is to ‘live in the moment’!

So, while keeping an eye on the pandemic and piecing together leave days, I silently resolved: I must take them to Dali at least once!

On July 11, shaking off the exhaustion of the previous night shift and the drain of hosting a noon wedding, at 14:07, carrying the original heart that can cross mountains and seas, we set off…

Crew check, let’s roll…

The handsome pilot—none other than yours truly… (from the co-pilot silly goose’s perspective)

Little Potato said: ‘Daddy, sunglasses are way cooler!’

Sheesh, such a show-off…

In July, Yibin’s temperature was beyond ‘heatwave’—it felt like being steamed in a pot. Seeing Kunming and Dali at 17–18°C, and hearing the guesthouse owner proudly say they had no air-conditioning and you’d need a quilt at night, I couldn’t help doubting: Really? Why wasn’t it like this when I came in March 2019? Did I visit a fake Dali?!

Arriving at Yue Le service area, the wind blew chilly. Oh my God, is this really summer? It’s like a joke!

I hurried the family to get out and put on more clothes.

Little Potato kept whining: ‘Daddy, I’m hungry, I want noodles!’ Okay, done! (A bowl bigger than his face—and of course… he couldn’t finish.)

The weather is so changeable: one moment dark clouds and fierce wind, feeling like a downpour was coming; after the tunnel, it was suddenly…

Maybe because of days of AC and fans, the nasty cold and fatigue from the road had my nose feeling like it didn’t belong to me anymore.

At 22:30 we reached Kunming. So tired I couldn’t even think of eating, let alone taking photos! Shower, sleep, see you tomorrow…

The next day I woke a little early, the cold much better. Opened my eyes to see the four big bosses…

We tidied up and headed out. Staying right by Dianchi Lake, it would be a shame not to stroll around. Alright, let’s go for a walk…

‘Spring City’ is truly well-deserved.

In the dog days of summer, anywhere else you can’t escape the drenching sweat and sticky heat.

I recalled the scorching trip to Sanya in May 2016.

My goodness, Kunming! A gentle breeze carrying delicate fragrance of flowers and plants swept over us; a deep breath brought an unprecedented freshness from scalp to toes!

Little Potato’s travel photo (Kid, uh… my belly)

A handicraft from my virtuous wife, the ‘silly goose’

Here are my father-in-law and mother-in-law (Father-in-law served five years as a volunteer soldier when young, and later became a leader. His endurance and hands-on skills are exceptional! Since retiring, if any relative, friend, or neighbor needs repairs or help, he’s the go-to guy! He’s a whiz at mending, cooking, and keeping the household in perfect order—one of the elders I most respect! Mother-in-law worked as an accountant when young and was praised everywhere, at work and at home. Her way with people and her grace are a benchmark I’m still striving toward. Since retiring, she’s been helping us take care of Little Potato—so grateful!)

These are my dad and mom (After my dad fell ill, it’s rare to see them so relaxed! He started working at 13, hauling carts to support his aunt and younger uncle, once a fearless long-haul trucker who roamed the country—a tough, resilient man. It’s been hardest on my mom. After surgery, my wife and I came back to work. During my dad’s subsequent chemo, mom managed the entire household alone. Praying this storm passes soon, and all is well!!!)

Little Potato: ‘Come on, buddy, I’ll take you home!’

My dad: ‘Let me also look at Dianchi Lake, to prove I was here…’

Four and a half hours later, what came into view was this picture-perfect scene…

This… (a palette that felt straight out of a Hayao Miyazaki anime~~)

And this—Qingsha Folk House * Xi Ge in Dali!

Falling in love with Xizhou often only takes one reason: slowness! Like the afternoon sunlight, an elderly person sewing under the eaves, time flowing quietly yet fully. I adore the drops of rain dripping from tiled roofs, the morning sun slanting through windows onto wooden floors—a warmth that fills the heart!

Calm as still water, no strife with the world!!! (In these moments, I find my true self, and that’s the life my heart yearns for!)

Immersed here, I almost greedily drank in the air; all flowery praise felt empty and fleeting.

That burning heart was reawakened!!! How I wished time would slow down, slower, and slower still…

Oh, and their Tian Coffee—freshly ground pour-over coffee, different flavors depending on personal taste. I thought it was alright (maybe I’m just not used to it). Right at the alley entrance near our lodging, just a few dozen meters away, super convenient. The owner is a warm young man from Anhui.

Little Potato: ‘Daddy, I want some too!’

Kids can’t drink coffee! Fine, since it’s a rare treat, okay, done!

People live by food—calling someone a ‘foodie’ is really the best expression of a love for life. So, out we went to find something to eat…

Enjoying the simplest yet most sumptuous dinner! That feeling of fullness was so comforting!

Especially with family, no need to worry about what to say, no fear of drinking too much, no flattery or scheming…

Home is inherently a circle—a complete round table to eat together, a complete peace of mind while dining, chatting and laughing without distractions. In that moment, no questions east or west, heart at ease!

We walked home under the night. Wherever family is, that’s home!

It turned out my choice was right (actually, every trip, the ‘silly goose’ manages to book accommodation that surprises us—her title of wise wife is no joke). The dragon-ball lamp I brought was fantastic; lights on, stepping inside, a whole warm world was suddenly within reach! The courtyard door closed, and the family gathering began… (I won’t go into details here.)

Xizhou was truly so peaceful, it cured half a year of insomnia. I woke up at 9 a.m. next morning. (Photographers stream in daily, and the two mothers went early to that old post-office phone booth.)

A light drizzle was just right, the breeze gentle. Okay, today: circle the lake…

The Cangshan Mountains in the distance looked as if covered by a soft wool blanket, impossibly warm! (From the Shuanglang lakeside viewpoint)

A family tourist photo is a must, right? Done

Little Potato: ‘Hmm, this composition is okay~~’

Last year at the Couple’s Tree, this year by Erhai Lake:

Hmm, seems we’ve both bulked up a bit this year~~

It kind of has a college graduation vibe!

Yeah, it really does~~~

Only now there’s an extra freeloader~ (referring to the kid)

Dali’s beauty can’t be described in just a few words! Beyond wind, flowers, snow, and moon, the changeable weather also brings more possibilities for beauty…

Drizzle, sunshine, stretching endlessly.

Hungry? Let’s go eat. What should we have? Mushroom hotpot~ (Near the old town, Huotang Yinxiang: I ate there last year, pretty good, the boss is nice, there’s a courtyard inside. This year it was under renovation with strong smell, so we sat outside. Still delicious, and just in season for fresh mushrooms—taste was great, though the price wasn’t so pretty. For seven of us, over 1,000 RMB, but worth it.)

Of course paired with this:

Dali really is a place that suddenly opens your heart and brightens your eyes! Besides the scenery, there’s also destiny!

Last year I was fortunate to meet the owner Deng Zhou (a super stylish female designer who runs her own wood art studio; now there are two branches, one in Xizhou. From material selection to design to finished product, she strives for perfection—the biggest gain from my Taobao shopping last year. This is how it looked then. This year I didn’t drop by due to our schedule. Save something for next time, I guess.)

Here’s that tree I bought last year (because it was too tall to fit in the car, it was cleverly designed into two halves).

People cameo: (On the left is boss Deng Zhou; if you want her contact and address on Taobao, leave a message.)

And this year in Dali, at a restaurant (Cha Mi Duo Farm Restaurant), we ran into the ‘silly goose’s’ favorite celebrity, took a photo—she was so thrilled!

That led to this conversation:

Me: ‘Ms. Xuan, my wife really likes you. Can we take a photo with you?’

The celebrity: ‘Sure, let’s be quick though—I have to catch a flight!’

(To protect the person’s image rights, I’ll skip the photo. It was actually Mr. Wei Zhe, the actor.)

But Cha Mi Duo is worth sharing.

Little Potato: ‘I’m going to finish it all!’

‘Hey in-law (joking with wife), this is pretty good, let’s buy some.’

‘Yeah, not bad, let’s get some to taste.’

Doesn’t it make you want to eat it~~

Look at those colors, vibrantly organic~~

The asparagus was refreshing; at first bite you could feel nature’s freshness traveling from the tip of the tongue to the root, wrapping the taste buds in pure satisfaction!

The tomato beef was super savory, perfect over rice; I wolfed down four bowls of rice.

Colorful rice is a local specialty—fragrant, though a bit firm in texture.

This fruity tomato I hadn’t tried before; color and size looked quite appealing.

The vegetables’ colors were really enticing…

Now here’s the highlight—expect a quiz:

Braised pork: the color was wonderful. At first bite, it felt like my meridians were unblocked, a wave of full, rich satisfaction rising from toes to crown, completely awakened, like the feeling of eating ‘sorrow-dispelling rice’ in ‘God of Cookery’. Especially with the addition of that green fruit, something like an olive, with a texture like a bayberry—sweet and sour perfectly balancing the meat’s richness, just right; any more would be too sour, any less too greasy…

After the meal, a little amusement must be allowed, right!

‘Alright, alright, go have fun~~’

On Dali’s streets, interesting spots are everywhere. My surname is Wu, so:

(Remember to stop by when you’re there; it’s at Erhai Gate. Mention my name and you’ll get a ‘broken bone’ discount—ha)

I thought it was a friend’s shop; the sister owner’s surname is Li, the brother-in-law’s is Ding:

It has a Hong Kong-style cha chaan teng vibe:

Does it remind you of childhood, playing hide-and-seek with friends in the alley, and your mom shouting: ‘Qiang’er, wash your hands, dinner’s ready…’

If Dali’s beauty is exquisite and serene, Lijiang is vibrant with lively human energy!

Personally, I prefer Dali’s free-spiritedness over Lijiang’s commercialized style, but I couldn’t resist my family’s enthusiasm.

Alright, a one-day Lijiang tour—let’s do it:

(Departed at 10 a.m., from Shangguan onto Da-Li Expressway, about two and a half hours to Lijiang. Returned to Dali at 11 p.m. I thought that was the limit, but later it got even more thrilling—let me catch my breath and tell you slowly.)

By the time we arrived in Lijiang it was past noon. Parked the car, entered through the scenic area gate, turned right and walked about 20 meters to a restaurant—‘Prince of Western Yunnan, Prince Restaurant’. Good flavors, not pricey, with ethnic-style decor.

The cumin spare ribs were tasty—spicy and fragrant in the right measure. For Sichuan people, the spiciness was barely enough, but the ribs were tender and soft, and the salad perfectly cut the oiliness—a nice match.

The rose-brown-sugar tangyuan (glutinous rice balls) were a great choice either as dessert or staple. Isn’t happiness supposed to taste sweet? The rose petal fragrance and brown sugar’s sweetness wrapped the palate instantly, quickly awakening memories of that blissful ‘sweetness’ from childhood—exquisite! The dish beside it was beef, forgot the name; the meat was tender and smooth, the ultimate rice-pairing dish.

This was the signature copper-pot fish, said to be black fish raised in alpine snow water. The fish was very tender, mildly spicy, the broth rich and full. According to the owner, the soup base could dispel dampness and nourish the lungs, and you could get unlimited refills. Imagine in winter, snowflakes dancing outside while you sit indoors, taking a bite of fish and then cradling a bowl of soup. Wow~ (Picture it yourself.) Anyway, I drank four bowls.

After eating, let’s go out and have fun~ (I remembered four years ago when we took a family portrait, Little Potato’s boxer costume was adorable, so I suggested getting him ethnic attire this time. Didn’t expect he’d pick his own outfit and wear it all day, striking a pro boxer pose everywhere—I give up~)

The victorious reunion of the four big bosses

One side grandma, the other side nai nai (maternal grandmother), okay!

Once, you were just over 50 centimeters tall; your grandpa carried you downstairs to soothe you to sleep then back up six flights. In a blink, you’re almost as tall as him!

Little Potato, when you’re grown, honor and take care of them well~

Daddy, I’m thirsty, I want bubble tea…

Hmm, which cup should I drink? They all look so good.

Haha, you little greedy cat, when you’re older I’ll show you what you were like.

De ji kuo ma ya mi, bu si si mo duo na wa

Na ji na lu ya mi, ga ge duo fen ya mi~~~ (probably a local song lyric left untranslated for atmosphere)

Family portrait angle:

The two mothers, beaming with pure joy~~

Of course they were happy—they found clothes they loved~~

From mom’s perspective:

Time flew; the Lijiang day ended.

Seems Shangri-La isn’t far from here, just over 200 km, about a 4-hour drive.

We’d satisfied the two mothers with Lijiang, now it was time to balance it out for the two dads. They wanted to see Shangri-La—done.

This is one of my favorites, from the ‘silly goose’~~

‘Son, look, that’s the realm your dad has won for you.’

‘Oh, not bad~~’

What do you do on a grasslands?

Of course, horse riding and archery~

Let’s also experience the rugged nomadic life~

What surprised me was Little Potato—

Timid as he usually is, he completely let go.

No need for a horse handler, he rode the whole way by himself.

The grassland mascot, so adorable~

Suddenly I noticed the grasslands and the sea share many similarities:

They let you sink into contemplation,

Let you truly feel your own smallness,

Let down your guard and cast off all worries,

Return to the pure goodness of life’s beginning.

I want a life in full bloom:

Even if fate clutches at my throat, I’ll stand the pressure and burn bright with passion~~~

Napa Sea’s ring road, lacking the moisture of water, missed some of its proper character,

but it didn’t matter—when alive, happiness is what counts most!

We often feel pain and joy the most deeply—

Like the end of a trip: there’s regret, reluctance, hope, and longing.

On the way back, exploring Kunming’s city streets, browsing the flower market, and tasting a bowl of rice noodles was nice too.

This brand-labeled milk tea was superb. I don’t usually drink this stuff, but instantly switched from casual drinker to fan.

Rich and full at first sip, nothing like that powdered roadside kind, and not expensive: 12 RMB a pouch.

Speaking of this thing, which looks like both turtle jelly and ice jelly, it was really, truly sweet—like the taste of childhood.

I don’t know if this is authentic, but the flavor is genuinely good:

If you’re interested, come try it (Niangzi Qing Guoqiao Mixian).

Full and satisfied, we headed to the flower market. Entering truly startled me—what a huge venue, worthy of being Asia’s largest fresh-flower trading spot.

We only browsed one of the halls:

OMG, buy it:

Some say tourism and travel are the same, just that ‘travel’ is a more pretentious term.

Tourism, to me, means rushing along, ticking off attractions, shopping, the sense of ‘five-minute photo op and hours on the bus’—what’s the point?!

Travel, on the other hand, is synonymous with freedom: go wherever you want, no reason, no constraints, roaming in your own world freely. Isn’t life itself a one-way travel? And the meaning of travel lies in recognizing, discovering, and loving your true self!

That’s probably the real reason so many people fall in love with traveling. It’s also the original intention behind me bringing the whole family, young and old, in search of ‘wholeness’!

My writing skill is limited, the photos are mostly unedited (didn’t bring a proper camera), but the emotions are real, and so are the people!

I’ll keep sharing my experiences and feelings from the road. Life may be bitter, but we face it with a smile!

I’m host Wu Zhiqiang. Until next time, everyone!

Finally, here are a few photos by true masters. Just quietly enjoy the beauty of Dali~~