Beyond Poetry and Distant Dreams: Lijiang’s Most Beautiful Face in All Seasons

Tsangyang Gyatso said:

On this shimmering plateau of Buddha’s light,

a couple of steps and you’re in paradise.

Time is the knot-tier,

telling us that these towering mountains, these boundless clouds, this grass growing through the old seasonal markers,

are the most enduring scenery in our tiny, fleeting lives.

Only then can our silhouettes remain forever

in this moment of space and time,

imprinted below Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, beside Baisha Village.

From the clip-clop of horse hooves to the soft hum of cars,

history has branded time into the mountain hollows of Lijiang,

leaving all the finest fruits of beauty in this land.

Choose a damp season

to experience the most romantic

of the thousand ways of living in the world.

Transportation: Xiamen – Lijiang (direct flight)

Food: Chickpea jelly, wild mushroom hotpot, snow mountain fish, cured pork rib hotpot

Attractions: Fuguo Temple, Baisha Ancient Town, Yuhu Village, Lashihai Lake, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

Accommodation: Shuhe Ancient Town, Dayan Ancient City

A chorus of young children’s voices rose in a long, flowing chant.

When we arrived at the temple gate halfway up the mountain, the sky was dusky yellow,

a light rain falling.

The mountain wind tousled everyone’s hair,

and white wildflowers bloomed lavishly around the temple.

On the meadow before the gate, many meditating monks in crimson robes were getting up one after another,

gathering their cushions to return to the temple and shelter from the rain. From children who looked about five to elderly monks, all were present.

Their eyes were serene; passing by us, they gave polite, faint smiles and slightly bowed.

In the chilly mountain wind, I distinctly heard that young chorus intoning an age-old scripture.

The sound settled amid the temple’s prayer flags,

among the mountain petals,

on my hair,

and in our hurried eyes.

These children,

orphans left behind by an earthquake,

were taken in here to study the scriptures and enter the Buddhist path.

We stood under the eaves avoiding the rain. The mountain wind never ceased,

cool raindrops wetting the hems of our clothes.

The chanting went on unbroken;

none of us spoke,

and all eyes watched the raindrops falling from the eaves.

At Lijiang, 2,400 meters above sea level,

I finally had the chance to see prayer flags and stupas,

and hear friends talk about circumambulating mountains and lakes.

Birthplace of “Shangri-La”

This was once home to Joseph Rock, the inspiration behind “Shangri-La.”

At 2,800 meters, it’s the village closest to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

and the entrance to the Snow Mountain trekking route,

making it a paradise for many foreign hiking enthusiasts.

Under a deep blue sky, houses built of volcanic stone stand;

between them gust winds from the mountain pass.

Quiet, still—

that is the state of this village.

Children play beside the stable,

elders smoke in the sun.

The howling wind drowns out all other noise.

Rock made this his base for exploring Lijiang.

In that era, scholarship had no falseness;

every word came from such scholars’ dedicated research.

All the articles about this mysterious, ancient land

gave James Hilton endless inspiration,

and thus “Shangri-La” was born.

Locals say Baisha has the best water quality in all Lijiang.

Baisha Ancient Town is the last component of the world-renowned World Heritage Site of Lijiang Old Town, and it’s the town that best preserves original residential architecture and local inhabitants. Escaping the crowds of Dayan Old Town, coming here lets you truly see Lijiang’s laid-back, cozy way of life. It’s the first settlement area where the Naxi ancestors gathered upon entering the Lijiang basin, so it represents Naxi nomadic civilization.

Along this old street sit several Naxi embroidery and tie-dye workshops. Stitch by stitch, thread by endless thread, in the needlework we glimpse the diligence and wisdom of Naxi women—whether in the baskets for carrying children, the ornaments on hats, embroidered panels on clothing. Life aesthetics appear in every daily scene of this hardworking people.

Locals say Baisha Ancient Town has the best water in Lijiang, fed by surface water trickling down from the snow mountains and underground mineral-rich springs. The chickpea jelly produced here is the most authentic in all Lijiang. In the town center, two permanent chickpea jelly stalls serve up fried jelly pieces with vinegar, soy sauce, salt, crushed peanuts, bean sprouts, chili powder, and chopped scallions. One bite gives a soft, glutinous texture and a fresh, spicy flavor.

The footsteps of horse caravans once climbed from here, and Lijiang’s cultural depth was born from it.

Lashihai Lake is a highland wetland, about a 30-minute drive from downtown.

This is a relic of the Ancient Tea Horse Road and a habitat for migratory birds.

As one of Lijiang’s major attractions, Lashihai offers a leisurely, relaxed experience.

For girls, it’s also a super photogenic spot.

If you visit in spring or summer, ladies should definitely wear a pretty dress—pictures come out amazing.

It’s said this wetland welcomes a large number of rare migratory birds every year, the most precious being the black-necked crane, long listed on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. These birds, like highland spirits born of the water, are the very soul of Lashihai.

The horse handler led us on horseback deep into the forest. This, they say, is the Ancient Tea Horse Road, the trade route linking Tibet and central China. From here, Yunnan tea traveled to the snowy highlands, while yaks, sheep, and Tibetan medicine from Khampa lands flowed inland. For thousands of years, horse caravans climbed over from here, cultural rivers converged, and Lijiang’s profound character was born.

-Jade Dragon Snow Mountain-

“Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, glistening silver...”

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is the snow mountain closest to the equator in the Northern Hemisphere

and one of Lijiang’s iconic sights, with a maximum altitude of 5,596 meters.

For geological reasons and local religious and cultural beliefs, its summit has never been reached.

The highest point visitors can currently reach is 4,680 meters.

I’d already heard its fame in the song “South of the Colorful Clouds.”

To locals, this snow mountain is a deity, a guardian spirit

standing north of Lijiang Old Town, unmovable, solemn, and sublime.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is a cultural symbol of the Naxi people.

Riding a cable car with a vertical drop of 1,150 meters,

you go directly from 3,356 meters to the cable car terminal at 4,506 meters,

which is the mountain’s main peak, Shanzidou (Fan Peak).

Then, follow a plank walkway to challenge the 4,680-meter mark.

Climbing on the boardwalk above 4,000 meters,

the breath of the high plateau hits you.

The thin air presses on you

like the strictest monastic rules or the most mysterious religion.

The whole Jade Dragon Snow Mountain scenic area is very large,

with two main routes:

popularly called the Big Cable Car and the Small Cable Car.

The Big Cable Car lifts you from 3,356 m to 4,506 m, mainly to visit the Glacier Park on Shanzidou – the most spectacular and worthwhile route.

The Small Cable Car goes to a highland meadow halfway up the mountain, called Yunshanping (Spruce Meadow).

Generally, it’s impossible to cover both routes in one day, so after much research, I chose to use my limited time and energy on the first, the most valuable route – the Big Cable Car.

Here are some tips summarized for you:

# All main spots on Jade Dragon Snow Mountain are above 3,000 meters, making altitude sickness very likely. Whether traveling independently or on a tour, everyone should carry a can of oxygen and start inhaling before taking the Big Cable Car to prevent altitude sickness.

# The UV radiation on the mountain is extremely strong. Use sunscreen all day, and wearing sunglasses makes for better photos.

# The Big Cable Car may be halted in strong winds for safety; you can switch to the Small Cable Car route.

# Jade Dragon Snow Mountain uses a real-name ticketing system; everyone must bring their ID card or passport.

-Food Diary-

In Lijiang’s rainy summer,

the best seasonal delicacy is wild mushrooms.

The most famous are matsutake, porcini, termite mushrooms, and so on.

During our days in Lijiang,

we tasted the most delicious mushrooms of our lives!

We found a mountain-treasure restaurant specializing in wild mushrooms.

Location: No. 72 Changshui Road, inside Sifang Temple, Gucheng District, Lijiang

Name: Stone Pot Yu Shan Zhen Guan · Yunnan Wild Mushroom Theme Restaurant

Their matsutake and fish maw chicken soup was incredibly flavorful, and pairing it with seasonal matsutake was heavenly. Located behind Zhongyi Square in the old town, we found it easily with GPS. The entrance was gorgeous, with kids taking photos in front. The shredded mushroom fried rice was also a highlight—not greasy at all, each grain distinct. They used charcoal fire for the soup, and on a chilly rainy day in Lijiang, sitting around the warm charcoal was cozy and comfortable.

If you don’t know which wild mushrooms to order, try the mushroom platter. The owner said it includes all the common varieties. The staff set a timer for us, reminding us to cook it for enough time before eating – it felt safe and professional. Our group meal deal included nearly a jin (half kilo) of wild mushrooms, and their plum wine and rose wine were delicious. After eating, you can stroll out of the restaurant like a local, utterly content.

In the tough year of 2020,

if life feels too oppressive and urgent, why not find a city like Lijiang?

Feel the etchings of time,

look at the mountains and trees, listen to cowbells and horse neighs.

Perhaps this land glistening with Buddha’s light can show you the most beautiful

—face of the human world.